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Practicing some product photography.
Strobist info: Two sb-800s. Controlled by d300 in commander mode. Manual settings.
1st flash shooting through white umbrella at 1/8 power to the right of the camera.
2nd flash 1/2 power shooting through blue gel with 12in snoot aimed at top left corner of iphone to create reflection.
iphone sitting on mirror infront of makeshift black felt background.
Here's my current setup for Lego photos.
- For lighting, I've got two umbrella lamps from this kit.
- For the backdrop, I'm currently just using a roll of some cheap craft paper.
- Holding the paper up has always been a challenge--I need to just get a backdrop stand at some point. For the moment, I just so happen to have a very large mirror lying against the wall that works perfectly for holding up the paper.
- I have a really nice camera (Canon 7D) and tripod (Manfrotto 055XPROB) because I also do a lot of seascape photography; I bought the umbrella lights specifically for photography though :).
The Vintage Faire sim is amazing this year. The organizers really outdid themselves. And there's me with a two headed turtle!
Unfortunately, the black "flag on the right fell down and then my XTI taking the setup shot ran out of batteries.
Here is my setup. I want to share with you :)
It's nothing exceptionnal, but it work pretty well.
Voici la mise en place pour ce shoot photo. C'est pas grand chose, mais ça a fait le travail.
The full hardware controller for flying insects. The internal basis is an Altera FPGA chip (hardware, no software) this chip can be hardware programmed with the functions need to drive the hole unit as lasers, highpower magnet for the compur1 shutter, red cros lasers for the detection of the flying insects, all the flashes(max8) camera control, green laser pinters for the framing, high power drivers for UV leds and withe leds to work into the dark for moths at night.
How to take insects in flight see:
Setup/Lightsetup - Model-View
Result here: www.flickr.com/photos/thephotolife/4473947376/
Nikon D300
AF-S Micro NIKKOR 105 mm 1:2,8G VR
Profoto ComPact 600r Octobox
Elinchrom Ranger Quadra with Sunlight Reflector
Nikon SB-900 with white Lastolite Umbrella
triggerd with Pocket Wizard Plus II
Mehr Informationen findet Ihr auf meinem Blog (More information on my Blog): thomasseidl.wordpress.com
(C) Thomas Seidl
Use this to share your lighting setup or to document your setup for future reference. Email me at kevin@kertzdesign for comments and/or suggestions. Not for commercial use.
ironically, did a studio shoot without any studio lights..
2 430EXIIs at 1/4th power to blow the background, 580EXII at 1/8th power into a softbox below and 580EXII at 1/4th power bounced off the ceiling on cam as master and main light..
for rest of the set click here..
Setup shot for 024/365 My Big Brother.
Strobist Info: Canon 430EXII camera left and about 6 feet high fired into shoot through umbrella about 2 feet away from subject, Canon 430EXII camera right and on back side of subject about 6 feet high and 9 feet rear of subject fired bare/no diffuser, Canon 430EXII behind subject shooting at black background, fired bare. . Flashes were triggered with Interfit Strobies.
Strobist: SB-800's on the left and right of the peppers, facing away and bounced off white foam core. Third SB-800 underneath the white Plexiglas. Two of the flashes on pocket wizards and the third one in "SU-4" mode. I saw this foam core idea somewhere on Flickr.
The "main ingredient" in the setup for Memorial Day 2010 was the curved shiny red paper, which reflected the light from above in such as way as to resemble a sunset.
The setup shot for this photo.
Top left flash was gobo'd with a piece of non-slip mat that I had lying around, since my snoots seems to have run into hiding when my family visited me a while ago. Settings was 1/8th power @85mm zoom (at least in the final photo)
Bottom right flash had a 2cm black straw DIY gridspot, and was 1/8th power at 35mm zoom setting.
The D80 popup flash at 1/2 (or 1/4?) power was used to add some light for this setup photo.
Our megamid setup on night 2 was very compfy; Brad and I slept in the Megamid while Robin and Kevin slept in his tent. We all cooked in the 'mid, which was very, very comfortable sitting along the bench on the left-hand side.
Addendum (November, 2008): After many more trips with the Megamid, this setup can be used with no bivy sacks or tarp floor for a very light system. The way we set it up is as follows:
First, make a flat area about 11 feet (a little bigger than each side of the 'mid) square, then dig down (cutting rough blocks w/ your shovel if possible) a couple feed in a ~9 foot square. Level the edges. Dig a trench down one wall (wherever you'll have the entrance); you can use this for a compfy cooking area later. Then, put the megamid down and use skis/poles/tree branches to secure the corners and midpoints. Go inside and set up your pole (we use two skiis with the skins still on facing heel-to-toe with two bike toe straps around them).
Adjust the length to get the tent secure, then put blocks back over the edges of the megamid to keep the wind out. Clean up the inside by digging it out as much as possible and potentially undermine the walls a little. You can sleep two on one side of the pole and one on the other.
We sleep in this with just thermarests on the ground and a winter bag (I use one rated to -14C). We pile our backpacks in the doorway, cook in a shelf in the outside wall opposite the trench which makes breakfast a lot easier, especially if it's stormy.
(Update Feb 2011): This gets a decent number of searches ending here; for a couple more modern shots of our megamid setup, look at these pics:
www.flickr.com/photos/mike-warren/464155013/
www.flickr.com/photos/mike-warren/462929911/
Step 4: If arch, chuppa, or pergola is not as stable as it needs to be, secure joints by screwing the joints together.
Strobistinfo:
Left: LP120-1/16-28mm-inflatable softbox,
Back (towards camera) HVL-F58AM-1/32-105mm-cardboard gobo's
My setup. Currently in the process of cleaning my desk, sorry about the mess. This is where I do my video editing and animation for clients and my own personal projects. And no, I don't spend all my time in here. I get out of the house often ;)
Setup shot for the Gossip Girl Cover. Notes should explain everything, and there's a slightly different angle here.
Blog: www.photosmudger.com/
Second setup with this tilted glass.
The white card backdrop now has a sheet of blue Fun Foam placed in the centre, so only the edges of the white are illuminated. The white can just about be seen behind the lights, the area behind the glass is filled with the blue.
The lights are also changed. Well thats not strictly true, it's the same lights, a pair of 20W CFL lamps, but they are inserted into upright Pringles tube reflectors, which give a much larger area of light than the snoots used with the white background..
Also, a pair of black cards are placed on each side, to prevent direct light fom spilling onto the glass, it is all coming back from the background, which stops nasty reflections on the glass.
Macro test setups.
Test object : KC73129MP
Number of Effective Pixels: 500(H) ´ 582(V)
Unit Pixel Size: 9.80um(H) ´ 6.30um(V)
This is a CCD with fine structure as a test object. The structure is uniform, perfectly straight and the dimensions are fixed. The macro magnification can be measured easily.
The 100% crops are always 600x400 pixels. Since a sensor pixel less than 10 um the resolution of the image can be properly checked.
I use a new tube-lens, the AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1:4G ED.
The advantage with this lens is the possibility to change the focalt length. This also changes the macro ratio. The ideal value is 200mm and this lens performs excellently. At other focalt values the quality remains very good but there are problems with the lighting in the corners. You'll practically limited to about 150mm. At 135mm you will have to adjust the angles sure if your image is in that zone. Smaller than 135mm is no longer usable, you lose too much by the dark corners. Successive images show these results.
The left part shows a 100% crop, the right image shows the entire picture. Focalt lenght and lens type are always marked.
Mitutoyo M Plan APO 10X lens is the real winner. That may be for its price. Again, you can not go too low with the focalt value The AIS35mm 2.8 reverse lens performs clearly worse. In contrast, the lens AF50mm doing a lot better. Macro AF60mm when reverse is very limited in length focalt but it does well with 200mm.
This is the result of one shot, there is no stacking used in these tests. Because the sensor is very flat so it can be done.
Very hastily put together shot today, so nothing very different with the setup.
The subject placed on a sheet of glass painted black on the underside.
Black background approx 12inches/300mm behind.
A pair of 20W CFL lamps placed to the sides in modified Pringles tube reflectors.
Between the lights and subject, a pair of screens containing tracing paper to soften the light.
Finally a couple of black cards placed behind the lights, to prevent stray light from hitting the background.
Job done and click ;-)
Step 1: Lay down 2 legs side by side. Then attach cross bar between 2 legs creating a "U" shape.
Then repeat this so you have two "U" shaped 7-8 feet apart.
It is important to follow these steps so that the joints will not break.
If I was going to do this again, I think I would place the flash lower and direct the light up more. This would have given a cool shadow on the headboard/wall and ceiling. I also forgot my shutter speed at 1/90 sec because I was doing some stuff before (and I wanted some ambient light effect), however, the flash was very effective in freezing motion.
Resulting pic here.
Strobist:
1 - SB-80DX camera left (1/8 power?)
Triggered by on camera flash (1/128 power)
I have been researching flash triggers and had settled on Pocket Wizards when I saw an article on radiopoppers. Now I'm not sure what to buy. To make a long story longer, I rarely use my Nikon CLS system (because my DX80 strobe can't) and I tend to be a "manual" mode guy when it comes to using a flash -- I like my flash to do what I tell it to do. Anyway over at radiopopper they are talking about TTL and iTLL and all I hear is bla, bla, bla, so I figured I should do some research. Anyway, I found this great blog... Nikon CLS Practical Guide by Russell MacDonald. I started with "Nikon Flash - Two Separate Metering Systems". You might like to check it out.
Setup shot for the profile shot. Notes should explain everything.
Blog: www.photosmudger.com/
the setup of this shot www.flickr.com/photos/yurokaleksandrovich/6240035835/
two vertical stipboxes, BTS pic explains it better:
Here's a "behind the scenes" look at how I took the rainbow water refraction shot flic.kr/p/8y9Dhg.
Az a "fényterelő" ott azért hátul van, mert nem tudtam elvinni onnan, fix. :( Amúgy létezik flickR függőség?! :-o