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Unfortunately, the black "flag on the right fell down and then my XTI taking the setup shot ran out of batteries.
ironically, did a studio shoot without any studio lights..
2 430EXIIs at 1/4th power to blow the background, 580EXII at 1/8th power into a softbox below and 580EXII at 1/4th power bounced off the ceiling on cam as master and main light..
for rest of the set click here..
Setup shot for 024/365 My Big Brother.
Strobist Info: Canon 430EXII camera left and about 6 feet high fired into shoot through umbrella about 2 feet away from subject, Canon 430EXII camera right and on back side of subject about 6 feet high and 9 feet rear of subject fired bare/no diffuser, Canon 430EXII behind subject shooting at black background, fired bare. . Flashes were triggered with Interfit Strobies.
Practicing some product photography.
Strobist info: Two sb-800s. Controlled by d300 in commander mode. Manual settings.
1st flash shooting through white umbrella at 1/8 power to the right of the camera.
2nd flash 1/2 power shooting through blue gel with 12in snoot aimed at top left corner of iphone to create reflection.
iphone sitting on mirror infront of makeshift black felt background.
This is my desktop setup that is in the living room downstairs. I would show you my desk in my room, but it doesn't feel complete without a computer.
That's why I want a mac...
On the left we have the monitor. I'm not going to even bother with the specs because this stuff is so old. We have the factory default keyboard. I do have a wireless Microsoft keyboard that goes with the wireless mouse, but the wired one looks and feels a lot nicer. Then we have have my 8gb 2 generatio iPod Touch that is placed in my custom iPod Speaker that I made myself. We have my wireless mouse on a pretty basic mousepad and than we have 2 harmon/kardon speakers. Lastly we move over to the HP color printer.
Strobist: SB-800's on the left and right of the peppers, facing away and bounced off white foam core. Third SB-800 underneath the white Plexiglas. Two of the flashes on pocket wizards and the third one in "SU-4" mode. I saw this foam core idea somewhere on Flickr.
The setup shot for this photo.
Top left flash was gobo'd with a piece of non-slip mat that I had lying around, since my snoots seems to have run into hiding when my family visited me a while ago. Settings was 1/8th power @85mm zoom (at least in the final photo)
Bottom right flash had a 2cm black straw DIY gridspot, and was 1/8th power at 35mm zoom setting.
The D80 popup flash at 1/2 (or 1/4?) power was used to add some light for this setup photo.
Step 4: If arch, chuppa, or pergola is not as stable as it needs to be, secure joints by screwing the joints together.
Strobistinfo:
Left: LP120-1/16-28mm-inflatable softbox,
Back (towards camera) HVL-F58AM-1/32-105mm-cardboard gobo's
This is the setup shot for the bread shot I took a while ago. For a while I thought I had accidentally deleted this as the memory card was empty, but luckily I had imported this to computer, just not to the folder I normally use...
From this angle you can see a bit of the turquoise reflection I was able to get rid of in the final image. For the tip on how to see where the reflections are coming, check out my blog post, there's more about this setup and the process in general.
Here is my setup. I want to share with you :)
It's nothing exceptionnal, but it work pretty well.
Voici la mise en place pour ce shoot photo. C'est pas grand chose, mais ça a fait le travail.
The "main ingredient" in the setup for Memorial Day 2010 was the curved shiny red paper, which reflected the light from above in such as way as to resemble a sunset.
This was my setup for the Strobist bootcamp "water" challenge. I had to 're-set' it today because I had forgotten to take a picture of it yesterday, so it isn't perfectly like I had it, but close enough.
On the left: Light directed through a big white plastic washtub, to make a nice long highlight on the bottle. Paper on the left to reflect it.
On the right: Paper cutout behind bottle to reflect light through the bottle. Lint brush propping it up.
Hope this helps someone... :-)
Strobistinfo:
Right-low: 5400HS-1/2-105mm-9cm straw grid
Left-high: LP160-1/4-24mm-1/1+1/2 CTB gel through a piece of foam
The blue background is doing NOTHING for the photo, was still hanging there from another shoot.
Not done a setup shot for a while, so thought it time to change that.
It also shows my homemade difussion panels from a better angle than normal, so worth posting for that.
These difussion screens are one of the most useful things for tabletop work that I have made so far. They are very simple, just a cardboard tray that originally had tins of food in. In the base, a rectangular window was cut, just a little smaller than an A4 sheet of paper. Then a clear plastic document wallet is taped over the opening, into which sheets of paper can be put for different effects. Most of the time I use tracing paper or white printer paper just to soften the light from the small flashes.
Sat on top of the right screen, can be seen a Yongnuo SYD-0808 LED video light, which I use to illuminate the area for focussing etc. It's not bright enough to have any impact on the photo when using flash.
White backdrop is a sheet of white fun foam, wonderful stuff.
Almost out of shot at the top, is a Yongnuo YN460 fitted with a white card reflector to bounce the light off, to give the top lighting and to give the clean white background, though it doesnt look like it here :)
Resulting photo : www.flickr.com/photos/steveblackdog/4973858790/
Strobist info:
5400HS-105mm-1/16-4.5cm straw grid
Remote in my lefthand, the strawberry in my righthand.
Second setup with this tilted glass.
The white card backdrop now has a sheet of blue Fun Foam placed in the centre, so only the edges of the white are illuminated. The white can just about be seen behind the lights, the area behind the glass is filled with the blue.
The lights are also changed. Well thats not strictly true, it's the same lights, a pair of 20W CFL lamps, but they are inserted into upright Pringles tube reflectors, which give a much larger area of light than the snoots used with the white background..
Also, a pair of black cards are placed on each side, to prevent direct light fom spilling onto the glass, it is all coming back from the background, which stops nasty reflections on the glass.
Our megamid setup on night 2 was very compfy; Brad and I slept in the Megamid while Robin and Kevin slept in his tent. We all cooked in the 'mid, which was very, very comfortable sitting along the bench on the left-hand side.
Addendum (November, 2008): After many more trips with the Megamid, this setup can be used with no bivy sacks or tarp floor for a very light system. The way we set it up is as follows:
First, make a flat area about 11 feet (a little bigger than each side of the 'mid) square, then dig down (cutting rough blocks w/ your shovel if possible) a couple feed in a ~9 foot square. Level the edges. Dig a trench down one wall (wherever you'll have the entrance); you can use this for a compfy cooking area later. Then, put the megamid down and use skis/poles/tree branches to secure the corners and midpoints. Go inside and set up your pole (we use two skiis with the skins still on facing heel-to-toe with two bike toe straps around them).
Adjust the length to get the tent secure, then put blocks back over the edges of the megamid to keep the wind out. Clean up the inside by digging it out as much as possible and potentially undermine the walls a little. You can sleep two on one side of the pole and one on the other.
We sleep in this with just thermarests on the ground and a winter bag (I use one rated to -14C). We pile our backpacks in the doorway, cook in a shelf in the outside wall opposite the trench which makes breakfast a lot easier, especially if it's stormy.
(Update Feb 2011): This gets a decent number of searches ending here; for a couple more modern shots of our megamid setup, look at these pics:
www.flickr.com/photos/mike-warren/464155013/
www.flickr.com/photos/mike-warren/462929911/
Here's a "behind the scenes" look at how I took the rainbow water refraction shot flic.kr/p/8y9Dhg.
Another setup where the surroundings dwarf the subjects, but it does give nice big light sources.
The base is my usual sheet of glass painted black on the underside to create the mirror.
Behind this a sheet of white card which bounces light forward and is reflected on the glass.
There are 3 stick type 20watt CFL lamps used here, all in Pringles tube reflectors. Two are easily seen placed either side, while the third is behind the base shining up at the backdrop.
To diffuse the light, a pair of plastic document boxes are placed between the lights and the subject and have an additional sheet of tracing paper clipped to them to soften the light further.
Finally and not showing here, an LED video light was shone at the top of the backdrop to give a hint of blue. As the camera has the white balance set to Tungsten, which matches the colour temperature of the CFL lamps (2700K), the LED light which is daylight balanced (5500K) it takes on a blue hint.
Care does need to be taken that neither my hand or the LED light get reflected in the glass. One advantage of having Live View on my P&S camera.
Nothing fancy today, a pretty straightfoward setup.
Three 20watt stick type CFL lamps mounted in Pringles reflectors.
One each side and the third located behind and below the level of the glass base to illuminate the base of the background.
Diffusion screens of tracing paper are placed between the side lights and the subject to even out the light.
Have a nice weekend everyone.
Dobson Basketball 7 Nov 2009
Canon EF 135mm f/2L USM lens and a Canon EOS 5D Mark II
Exposure: 0.002 sec (1/500)
Aperture: f/2.0
Focal Length: 135 mm
ISO Speed: 5000
Setup for the Pink orchid shot. For the final shot I've put a black glass below the orchid, the rest did not change.
setup for this shot: www.flickr.com/photos/powersimagery/4488254430/
Strobist: X3200 into a gridded beauty dish from above
2x Sunpak 555 into 43" umbrellas cam right and left
ABR800 on cam
Sb900 and SB800 as kickers behind subject cam left and right
X1600 with blue gel behind subject on background
The full hardware controller for flying insects. The internal basis is an Altera FPGA chip (hardware, no software) this chip can be hardware programmed with the functions need to drive the hole unit as lasers, highpower magnet for the compur1 shutter, red cros lasers for the detection of the flying insects, all the flashes(max8) camera control, green laser pinters for the framing, high power drivers for UV leds and withe leds to work into the dark for moths at night.
How to take insects in flight see:
This short video illustrates my setup for photographing the 2024 full solar eclipse over North America. Just before each photo that I took of the sun with my Olympus (shown on its tripod), I snapped a photo of the solar camera with my Canon which was mounted on a second tripod. I've taken all of those Canon EOS R photos and created this short stop motion animation.
As you can see from the animation, I had to adjust the direction of the Olympus every five minutes to keep the sun centered (more or less) in the frame. The movement of the sun is made apparent by the shifting shadows.
For the photos that make up this short clip, I set the Canon on manual mode, locking the exposure so that the lightening and darkening of the environment with the progression of the eclipse would be apparent. Note that this short video comprises 31 separate photos taken over approximately two hours on the afternoon of April 8th, 2024.
I was fortunate in that my home was located in the path of totality so these images were literally taken in my yard on a virtually cloud free day.
I have posted a few images of the eclipse itself which were taken with the Olympus. Note that the lens on the Olympus was the 100-400mm f/5.0-6.3 and that I used an approved ISO rated solar filter over the front of that lens. I also used an old ball cap as a quick lens cap which I kept over the solar filter between shots.
The Canon camera used to record this clip was setup using the RF24-105 f/4 L and no added filtration as it wasn't ever pointed at the sun directly.