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Setup for This.
Light Setup :
- Key Quadra, right side, through softbox
- Rim Quadra, left side, through softbox with grid
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Strobist setup shot for this picture.
Strobist info:
SB800 @ 1/32, 105mm, DIY snoot, shot on the bottom of the Powerade through a sheet of frosted glass.
SB25 @ 1/64, 24mm, shooting into a partly collapsed umbrella, pointing at the Powerade
Triggered with Skyports and 5s self-timer
Camera info:
Nikon D700
Nikon 50f/1.4
f/4.5
1/200
ISO 200
WB - Flash
Ok so I don't have any lights set up or anything. I just clamped this shower curtain to a beam in my basement. There isn't much room for lights here. But this is a great temp area to work. Setup shot for:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2394/2089882732_9ebf0b294f_m.jpg
Setup for this photo for Macro Mondays.
Here you can see the ad hoc tower of random stuff that makes for a shooting platform around here.
Setups dont come much simpler than this :)
The subject is sat on a glass shelf which is painted black on the underside to create a black mirror.
Under the shelf, a single 11watt spiral CFL lamp in a Pringles tube snoot which is lined with a sheet of white printer paper.
The open end of the snoot is just 2inches/50mm away from the green card backdrop, which in turn is about 6inches/150mm behind the subject.
Thats it, a nice simple shot which can be seen below.
My one light setup for small product shots which has appeared several times before :)
A sweep of white cartridge paper (A3_ for the background.
A yongnuo YN460 flash set to 1/2 power and activated by a Blazzeo SLT-4 radio trigger.
A Pringles tube attached to act as a striplight reflector. This one is a little different to the one I normally use, which just has an opening covered in tracing paper to act as a diffuser.
This has a similar sized opening, but has the flaps from the opening retained and folded out to give additional reflection. This gives a harder light, for more of a shadow, which I felt suited this shot.
I see my Yongnuo SYD-0808 LED video light managed to sneak into the frame at the front left. This is used to aid focussing and to act as a work light. it is so much weaker than the flash, that is is left on at 1/2 power the whole time and has no effect on the image.
Current setup. 11" MacBook Air, 30" Dell display, 22" Dell display in portrait, WASD Code Keyboard, Magic Trackpad. Also at left, mostly off-screen, a Motorola XOOM tablet that's pretty much a glorified desk clock.
Spent most of the day up in Norfolk, helping set up the camp I help on. A canvas roofed wooden building which is the kitchen and marquee were fetched out of storage and put up in preparation for the next few weeks activities. I was worn out by the time I made it home!
Setup shot of paper shredder.
Home made background stand, home made pvc pipe light stands, Home Depot light stands, Home Depot shower rod for light boom. Home made soft box from foam core and gaffer tape.
Home made cardboard snoots.
Purchased items are 2 grip heads, seamless paper, mini grip clamp, umbrella clamps.
Hopefully, this shows my DIY light table a little better than yesterdays setup, where the camera and tripod obscured a lot of it.
It consists of a cardboard box which is white on the inside. A hole is cut in the top of it to let the light out and over the opening is placed a semi opaque plastic document box, inside of which is a sheet of tracing paper which evens out the light and prevents hotspots.
On top of this is placed a sheet of black card with a circular hole cut in it to act as the mask. As can be seen this doesnt cover the entire surface, which is a bonus here, though it can cause flare on the lens if the framing is a bit off.
The light coming out of the sides here was used to reflect just a hint of light into the body of the bottle to highlight the edges slightly. A couple of sheets of A4 white card folded in half were used to do this.
The light source is a single 20watt stick type CFL lamp mounted in a Pringles tube reflector, fed into the box from the right side. Feeding the light in from outside like this seems to give me a more even light than putting it in the box.
The sheet of tracing paper over the light here is just to prevent flare on the lens for this setup shot, where the light is included in the pic.
This setup shot shows the most complex setup for the day. Shooting on the white seamless the basic setup was three White Lightnings X800's. Every shot was a variation of this.
One X800 in a beauty dish up top and to the left as a main light.
The second as a rim light behind and to the right with just the reflector (seen behind Travis' head).
The third shooting onto the white paper to behind Travis in this picture and at his feet.
For this sculpture we had to change it up a little. The glass box was reflecting the white seamless and the surrounding floor so we had to find some black fabric. As would seem appropriate there was plenty of black foam core at home that I didn't bring. Tried some dark colored fabric at first which reflected the color. Finally Brek and Travis found some black fabrics to kill the light. This left the bottom dark however. I knew I wouldn't be able to reflect light back into there, the reflection was the problem in the first place. I was out of X800's so I went to the SB700 in my bag and used the diffusion panel in the reflector to shoot through to get light from an angle the didn't reflect in the glass.
Also out of people I had to trigger the camera with one hand and my other hand stretched out to get the SB700 where I wanted it. In the end it worked quite well.
See the shot HERE
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Setup for Eruption followed Ryan Taylor's excellent Water Figure Tutorial.
I forgot to shoot the setup at the time so I have recreated it.
Out of picture, my pc is running Multisine 1.74. Using the headphone output I have then connected my pc via the Mic input to an old stereo (at the the top of the picture) which is connected to the speaker.
The speaker was wrapped in clingfilm, and a small amount of a 50:50 cornflour (cornstarch)-water mix was placed on top.
Due to the small space, I could not get the legs of my Giottos MTL9361B tripod splayed wide enough to drop the camera in line with the top of the speaker. So I moved the centre column into the lateral position and hund the camera upside down off my Manfrotto 322RC2 ball head.
The lights on the landing and bedroom behind were turned off and at f/16 I ran a 5 second exposure. Using my wireless remote shutter I triggered the camera. During the 5 second exposure I activated a 0.2 sec pulse at a frequency of 120Hz on my pc and using a PT-04 wireless flash trigger in the other hand tried to time the flash to coincide with the sound. This took several attempts to time it right, and in actual fact the final Eruption shot is actually a blend in CS3 of two images in order to increase the drama.
The ghosting in Eruption is not an artefact of blending the two images, but due to some double triggering of the flashes when I pressed the remote trigger.
The pink/orange hues in the conflour-water mix of the final shot are, I think, attributable to the flashes bouncing off the bare plaster walls. This was not intended but presumably it would have helped to soften the light as specular highlights are not too much of a problem.
The final edit involved usual adjustments in LR3.6 to saturation, levels, sharpening etc together with burning in CS3 to darken the background which in the original shot I felt was distracting.
Olympus XZ-1
1/15 sec at f/1.8
ISO 200
6 mm
Copyright 2011 Ben Gethin
Not recommended for those of a nervous disposition :)
All setup ready to add the flammable liquid to the spoon. For this I use cigarette lighter fluid, which is neat petroleum spirit and must be used with caution. One advantage of placing it in a metal spoon is that the flame is kept confined and only a couple of drops are needed.
Lighting of the spoon from below is done with a makeshift light table.
This is a cardboard box with a white interior which has a 20watt stick type CFL lamp in it.
On top of the box a sheet of glass which is in turn covered with the white nylon front panel from a light tent, but any white material that lets light through will do, even a sheet of white paper.
As I wanted a red colour light, a vacuum formed tray from a pack of cakes was used and surrounded with black cards to block the white light from escaping.
Finally, a sheet of black fun foam is placed about 12inches/300mm behind for the background. Much better than any other material I have tried for absorbing light and doesnt reflect it like paper or card.
A variation on a setup I use often, but with a few tweaks to cater for the material of the bottle, which being plastic, acts in a different way to glass.
This setup shot is taken from a slightly lower angle as will be obvious from the black background behind the bottle.
There are 3 x 20W CFL lamps used in this setup, all fitted into Pringles tube reflectors to enhance and direct the light.
The first is located behind the black card and is illuminating the white background, approx 6inches/150mm behind.
The other 2 are in view and located each side. They are placed behind semi opaque polythene box files opened into a V shape to be freestanding. Light is prevented from spilling to the rear by a couple of black cards, which dont really show here.
Also, to soften the light further on the bottle side, sheets of white printer paper are clipped onto the screens.
Guess I had beter also mention the way the bottle is held at an angle, it looked a bit boring stood upright :)
A strip of paper was wrapped around the bottle and the two ends held quite tightly with a sprung clip. This created a sort of tripod, which also allowed the bottle to rotate, to get the most pleasing angle.
One thing not shown here, is that I held a sheet of white card above the bottle to reflect light back onto the top of the cap to bring out the white printing.
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Modelos desfilando las creaciones de los graduados en Diseño del instituto Discenters en Cali, Colombia.
Setup strobist:
Canon xti, 18-55 y 90-300
Vivitar 285HV a 1/2 potencia, en trìpode y sombrilla blanca traslúcida disparado por radio trigger como luz de relleno. Vivitar 2800 modo manual con gobo, en trÃpode atrás como luz de recorte, disparado por fotocelda.
Editado con photoshop cs4
Filtros y acciones varias para el color.
Lighting Setup en:
Marina Lighting Setup. Result can be see in 1. Marina 1, 2. Mary Poppins, 3. Marina 2 and 4. Naughty Marina.
Image can be downloaded here.
Learn to light at Strobist.
Use this to share your lighting setup or to document your setup for future reference. Email me at kevin@kertzdesign for comments and/or suggestions. Not for commercial use.
setup shot day 337.
One of the things I accomplished over the holiday break was to paint the "studio" aka the garage. I had an off white semi-gloss paint everywhere and it made light control a real pain. Now the walls are a neutral gray and I was able to push my seamless roll another 2 feet rearward which IMHO is huge. I have three strobes firing and the room is still nice and dark now :)
This could be my simplest setup shot yet, there is very little to it, but it did give a pleasing result as will be seen below.
I have added more light so that others can see what is involved.
Lighting is from a single Neewer SF-01 mini slave flash mounted on a small tripod and fired with a Blazzeo SLT-4 (PT-04TM) radio trigger. To this is fitted a DIY Snoot with a grid of drinking straws placed inside it, together with a piece of green photocopy paper to give the colouring.
For those not in the know, shooting a flash through a bunch of drinking straws, produces a very narrow beam of light as all the rays have to travel in a straight line. It is not very obvious in this setup shot, but the final image will give a better idea.
There are many articles around the web on using this technique, just try searching "Drinking straw grid".
A fun little setup, which I hope will have some uses for others :)