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Modifications partielles du contraste et capture d'écran de la photo...
www.flickr.com/photos/michael_from_berlin/55070990478/in/...
I have been so caught up with redesigning my AT-ST, that I unintentionally neglected sharing photos of the new improvements that I made to my Snowspeeder in LDD. The cockpit is impressively better structured then originally, and the nose redesigned now being 100% connected to the rest of the model, and the heatsink fins remodeled to ecmo47's design. Among other things, the structure of the wings has been reworked significantly, as well the gun housings, air brakes, laser cannons, etc. I will have proper photos to come…
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Now in 4K! Also, some modifications here and there.
The K50 is intended to replace the Tsar-class, as that design was found to be heavily flawed. However, the good features were borrowed from the Tsar-class, like its bridge that gave an excellent view on the battlespace.
The ship is based on the Pearl battlecruiser's hull, but modified to meet the needs of battleship. This class is supposed to fill out the gap between the said battlecruiser and The Divine superbattleship.
It utilizes many new features that makes it lighter and cheaper. Firtsly, it has only three turret versus the usual four of other nations' battleships while still having the same number of cannons. With one less turret a lot of weight was saved due to less machinery and a shorter citadel, this way more weight could be used for armor. At standard load it has a displacement of 38,230 t.
Armor
The ships' armor protection was designed to break up 16-inch (406 mm) shells from a distance of 15,000–20,000 meters and the primary armor plates made of Krupp cemented armor (which reduces spalling) are backed up by splinter bulkheads intended to contain any shell fragments.
The ship's waterline armor belt is 305 mm (12 in) thick and tapered to a thickness of 100 mm (3.9 in) at its bottom edge; above it is a strake of 229 mm (9.0 in) armor. The main deck armor is 104 mm (4 in). The turrets are protected with an armor thickness of 305 mm on the face, 230–190 mm (9.1–7.5 in) on the sides, and 152 mm on the roof. The barbettes of the second turret is protected by armor 305 mm thick, while the casemates of the 150 mm guns are protected by 37 mm armor plates. The sides of the conning tower are 369 mm (14.5 in) thick.
Propulsion
K50 is equipped with four steam turbines, each of which drove one propeller shaft. The turbines were designed to produce a total of 91,000 shaft horsepower provided by oil-fueled boilers. The ship could carry 5,000 long tons of fuel oil, giving her a range of 10,200 km at a speed of 16 knots. The ship exceeded her designed speed of 26.5 knots during her sea trials, reaching 26.7 knots .
Armament
K50 class' eight 50-caliber 41-centimeter guns are mounted in three turrets, one twin and two triple superfiring turrets fore and aft. Numbered one through three from front to rear, the hydraulically powered turrets give the guns an elevation range of −2 to +35 degrees, giving them a maximum range of 30,200 m. The rate of fire for the guns is around two rounds per minute.
The ship's secondary armament of 12 150 mm guns is mounted in four twin turrets and the remaining in casemates. These guns have a maximum range of 20,500 metres and fired at a rate of six to ten rounds per minute.
These guns are complemented by smaller oness, a dozen multipurpose 107 mm guns in twin turrets. Between the turrets is two twin torpedo launchers to give the ship more versatility.
Anti-aircraft defense is provided by six 84 mm high elevation guns, eight 40 mm guns in two quad turrets and eight 25mm guns, six in twin turrets and two as single mounts.
I wanted to create a mohawk
and the rest was only waste
but then I notice that you can use it
as a hairline for helmets
Tada it looks Awesome ....
Yeah, I know I said I wasn't going to post WH40K, but that's not a replica of a miniature. I had that chest built even before I made my Tau Broadside Battlesuit. It wasn't really accurate to those Centurions and I was going to scrap it, but then I thought it deserved its chance to be. This modification is meant to be faster and has some powerful reactor thing on the back... Not sure if there is any analogue of it among GW or FW stuff and I don't really care... After all I said it's custom.
I just felt like making you cringe. You're welcome.
I made these about 3 years ago for a long-ago destroyed Hoth diorama on my build table, which was never meant for the internet. But I still think these are pretty cool.
These represent a E-11 with collapsible stock, DL-44, and A280 from Star Wars.
No modifications to the image. The sky was a blaze with colours that evening! And I was luckily right there with my camera :)
Now THAT is going to come in quite handy
Although originally developed as a simple machine gun in 1941, and then with several modifications arriving in 1942, 1944, 1946 and 1948 respectively, Selym is quite an automatic rifle platform. Able to become either a light machine gun or assault rifle easily, capable of using either a 35-round magazine, or a 100-round drum magazine (which its operating system could be detached in order to carry belts), and used the 7.62x45mm round, VERY similar but still not the same as a similarly-named Czech round. It fires at 600 rounds-per-minute, and is able to mount a scope or a bayonet as well.
Still in service, it is not yet known whether the rifle platform will be dropped for the Alparslan assault rifle. What is known, however, is that the production of 7.62x39mm conversion kits have recently started, just in case. It enjoyed a very healthy service, and even if the rifle does get dropped from service, it will live a long life, even in the hands of Reservists. Its controls are fairly straight-forward, and so is the production. As said by most soldiers, ''It's hard to find a bad thing about it. It's not heavy, it's fairly easy to repair and maintain, it uses a cartridge with very good long-range capability, it's light - What is there to not like?''
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I was originally supposed to finish this first and then do a paratrooper version. Unfortunately, I'm shit when it comes to meeting deadlines. Hope you like it.
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NaCh 7.62, Ogtomat, Selym-B, 35-rounder mag, closed bolt: puu.sh/8jmXU.png
Did this thing. Sawed the elbow nugget in half, inserted a piece of copper pipe inside and done: the joint rotates!
Now I'll need to figure out what to do to the legs and Iria will be even better. Though, I might not do anything at all.
Et voilà!
Originally, I wanted him to be human. But like I said, his previous ears were already so beautiful, they just had to be refined! :D
Presenting; Feeple65 Roke, Elf version.
Modifications by the talented J&CEntangled. :)
I guess you'va all heard of evil people doing bad things to innocent bricks. Cutting bits off with a fretsaw, poking holes, or grinding and sanding just for the fun of it.
This is nothing like that. Here we see Mike making careful modifications to two 1x1 bricks to imitate corrugated steel, because Lego doesn't make them like this - yet.
Addition to Toy Project Day 3559
iss066e166221 (March 15, 2022) --- NASA astronaut Kayla Barron is pictured installing a modification kit on the International Space Station's Port-4 truss segment during a six-hour and 54-minute spacewalk setting it up for its next roll-out solar array.
In the old warehouse city part of Hamburg / Germany.
There the goods from the ships are stored in big buildings.
Sony Alpha 7II mirror less camera + Canon FD 400mm f/2.8 L Supertele with modified Kipon 0.7x speedbooster to 280mm f/2.0! Monostat monopod to stabilize the heavy setup.
Modification of the original #75182 Lego set.
The colour scheme has been adapted to urban conflicts by mixing light and dark blueish greys. Marking of the 212th Battalion have been added.
Additional details have been added in multiple places. Most studs have been hidden.
Some bricks were changed and the global shape has been slightly adapted to match available parts and become smoother.
No Bothan died bringing you this information.
This is a special request from the mannequin prototype.
If you want to be my faceups, go to "Den of Angels", in the "♠ ♠ ♠〖WHITE DEER GARDEN〗♠ ♠ ♠ faceups & Modifications", you can see my detailed instructions.
... and discharge into the slipstream for free distribution! For example, the Patent 4.412.654 patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect2=PTO1&Sect2=H...
Modified version of the LEGO Brick Bank (#10251).
There's now an ATM and the additional floor provides room for an insurance agent, who might not be the most respectable one.
A slight modification of my Framed Two-in-One Flower, with a color-changed frame. The colour change is very simple: basically, in the first step the paper is blintzed and then folding proceeds as for the standard version (some excess paper gets hidden later on but this is quite trivial).
Folded from a single sheet of duo-color Kami paper.
Here's a frog taken with the front lens group (objective) from an Olympus 35-180mm lens removed from an Olympus IS-3 DLX film camera, reverse mounted onto the front of a Nikon 105mm f/2.5 AI-S lens. A bit distracting are the reflections of the foil covered reflector cards on my home-made pop-up flash macro bracket. After one pop of the flash the frog was gone. Focusing when using these close-up add-ons is done manually by moving the camera forward and backward until the image is sharpest. The primary lens is almost always set at infinity. Not all "kludged" add-on lenses are perfect for use on every lens. Some just aren't good optical "matches". Often there's a bit of testing involved in getting a lens plus add-on combination that's worth using. Despite using an aperture of f:22, depth of field is very thin.
20110814-MA-058
Jaguar SS 100 - 178 XUX - seen participating in the 2017 Flying Scotsman Rally.
Any additional information clarifying the vehicle's make, model, modifications made and its specific history will be welcomed.
Press "L" to view large.
I'm not sure why I spent the morning working on this but I did. Regarding the discussion here: www.flickr.com/groups/33116133@N00/discuss/72157603973680...
The question was posed by theBWproject "Has anyone looked into rewiring the Big Shot to be able to run a sync cord to a new flash?" To which TimmyToucan replied "Don't think so... I know next to nothing about how the magicubes work, but as far as I can tell the camera just shoots a little plastic nub into the flash to set off the charge.
No spark, no current, no metal contacts = no external flash."
TimmyToucan was wrong!
Basically, as shown above, you need to pop open a magicube and slice open the sync chord for your flash. Smash one flash bulb (I smashed mine in a Mello's Popcorn bag so that glass wouldn't go everywhere) and put the metal "post" back into the plastic. Wrap one of the copper wires around the post. Wrap the other around the metal paper clip business in the middle of the flash and WHAMO. It should sync with the shutter just fine. Got it?
Someone with a flash meter will need to figure out the next step: how much light the MagiCube puts out and thus how bright your flash needs to be.
It's not an elegant solution but it works. I don't have any film left at the moment. If someone uses this method please send me a link to the final photo result.
Hope I just saved you a TON of money on MagiCubes.
As progress continues on my layout, I have moved on to building the small storage yard at the back of the layout. If I built the yard lead switches using a totally "legal" configuration of switches and track elements, the resulting arrangement to yield 3x sidings would occupy 144 studs. However, by modifying the track elements into a more compact and prototypical arrangement, the same lead arrangement can be achieved in just 96 studs. The resulting arrangement is still compliant with an overall 16-stud interval geometry and offers a much smoother path for rolling stock to navigate in and out of the yard. This arrangement has a repetitive pattern of appending a "stub switch" (truncated diverging road) with alternating full and 1/2 straights in the diverging road. The eagle-eyed will notice that I messed up one siding by cutting the 1/2 straight 1-stud too long--a error easily corrected at the baseboard end! The final road has a full curve + half curve + 1/4 straight to maintain alignment with 16-stud centreline geometry. I chose to build this track arrangement as a monolithic complete assembly because I could build the entire assembly within a alignment jig. The jig (built on baseplates) held the track elements in place whilst I solvent welded plastic reinforcement bonds between adjacent track elements. These are hidden within the rail channels. It also served to hold the track in place whilst soldering the bonds between the new spliced metal rail tops--I step avoided if you're building out of RC track elements. I must admit to being relatively "comfortable" with hacking Lego track elements in order to yield track configurations which are both more prototypical and more flexible.
p.s. obviously the the switch "stand" part of the switch has to be cut back in order to fit within this compact arrangement. In my case, I'm not concerned since I remove the switch bar and operate the switch with Tortoise point motors mounted below the layout.
The M53 is the Pseudo Empire main(and only) sniper/rifle.
It's based on a captured rifle with a few major modifications done to it.
Thoughts?
Pastie: pastebin.com/raw.php?i=ueQsJN7C
Following modifications to the 'Kings' blastpipe a series of 'steaming tests' were performed on the SVR on Tuesday and Wednesday this week.
On Tuesday 6023 'King Edward II' is seen tnt 50031 'Hood' on Eardington Bank heading what I believe was the sixth steam test of the day - all of which ran between Highley - Bridgnorth. The '50' was used to haul the 'King' and rolling stock between Bridgnorth - Highley.
Of all the railways that ever existed in Britain, the Cromford &
High Peak Railway (C&HPR) is by far the most interesting. While the line was in full use by 1831, the line saw plenty of changes during it's lifetime.
I have already covered Hurdlow incline being bypassed and closed in 1869 on my page and have recently turned my attention to Dowlow.
At the bottom of the image we see the current line going up to Dowlow quarry. The embankment higher up was the original alignment of the line.
The C&HPR was predominantly constructed by Canal engineers and featured long flat straights and sharp turns with steep inclines in lieu of Locks with winching engines. By the 1890's, the Ashbourne line was under construction by the LNWR, one of the later lines to be added to Britain's vast network of railways.
The late construction of this line meant more advanced construction techniques from experienced railway engineers were used; long sweeping turns and long shallow gradients (relatively!) that steam locos of the era could easily climb.
The line was envisaged to carry passengers so speed was an important factor on the line. By 1887, the LNWR had also taken over the operation of the C&HPR. The old alignment of C&HPR, which was serving the quarries near Dowlow, were inadequate for running passenger trains on and the LNWR had constructed a new line climbing out of Buxton from their terminus station, which would bypass the old alignment. This is what is seen in this image.
My assumptions is that the old alignment would have closed completely as the Ashbourne line opened in 1899.
I will next cover a tri-junction off to right of this image on my side of the line where this picture was taken. It has incredibly sharp turns and amazingly stone sleepers still in the place they were when presumably put down nearly 200 years ago!
"Flight equipment"
Les équipements de vol et le casque anti-bruit du pistard sont prêts. Le mécano va accompagner le pilote dans quelques instants pour faire le tour de l'avion et vérifier que tout est en ordre de marche.
BA 102 Dijon-Longvic (Côte d'Or)
"Copyright © – Patrick Bouchenard
The reproduction, publication, modification, transmission or exploitation of any work contained here in for any use, personal or commercial, without my prior written permission is strictly prohibited. All rights reserved
I tried a new feeling, I like his temperament.
This is the long-lost update, I didn't come for half a year? ! Thank you for your attention.
I try to speed up the update. : P
If you want to be my faceups, go to "Den of Angels", in the "♠ ♠ ♠〖WHITE DEER GARDEN〗♠ ♠ ♠ faceups & Modifications", you can see my detailed instructions.
Journal of Doctor S. Finnigan – Leading doctor of Project B27
Entry 104
After three months of the modification project, we are finally starting the last phase. The subject’s immune system is no longer fighting the medication and his muscles have been dissolved from the bones. According to Professor Rosenfeld’s calculations, they will easily reattach to the carbon skeleton after the procedure. Our head engineer Mr. Gordon and his team finished the prototype ten days ago and produced the first usable version. We are now making the final calibrations. The subject has been sedated and the observation team has arrived. The insertion procedure will start at 3pm, after the gouvernment‘s permission is given.
As you might noticed, this small but IMO really cool Vignette was built by N-11 Ordo, Mr Grievous and me together in the year 2011. But we never uploaded it for some reason so we came up with the idea of doing it now. I hope you enjoy it as much as I still do. Old School ftw!
The LEGO Ford Mustang bandwagon continues!
URL-dense backstory: This is a heavy modification / complete rebuild of the Hoonicorn V1 (a custom built 1965 Ford Mustang) that LEGO designers built as a gift for Ken Block, who drives the real deal. My build is based more on the prototype that TLG posted on Twitter, particularly for the binoculars-based hood stacks and the shaping of the cabin. My main reference for shaping the rest was the original concept art.
Anyway! I'm extremely happy with this build. I think I solved every issue I had with the original, and I added a lot of depth and texture wherever I could. I'm most pleased with the tail, especially the taillights and the shaping around the diffuser.
Here is a gift for reading this far: Instructions for this one are FREE on Rebrickable!