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Model: Lotta / Modelpoint
MUAH: Mariel Hynynen
This studio corner setup demonstrates that you can achieve good light with just one speedlight and a softbox. For this example, I used a compact Profoto A1X, which I acquired in used copy at an irresistible price, paired with a 2x3' softbox as the modifier. The result is a ultra portable setup with clean, versatile light that works well for a variety of scenarios.
Celestron Edge HD 8inch. Celestron AVX mount, 50mm guide scope, ASI 120mm mono guide camera/scope package, Astrozap dew heater and the ASIair mini. This is my first setup, still working out the kinks!
Setup for shots in the Splash set. One SB-800 left and one SB-24 right, both at 1/64. Fired the SB-24 with a poverty wizard and SB-800 in SU-4 slave mode (I only have one wireless trigger).
I have a new found respect for splash shots, they are quite tricky to get right and require quite a lot of cleaning up afterwards...
For this series I photographed in Raw to allow for some post processing which in turned out to be more or less necessary. Nothing advanced, just some simple post processing in iPhoto: adjusting levels/curves/contrast, bringing back highlights, white balance, straighten. crop and sharpening.
An aquarium would've been best for the shots where I drop stuff, unfortunately I only had a round glass jar which means you can see some flash highlight reflecting in the lemon shots (I cropped the shell tighter so it is out of frame).
Setup for backlighting using just a household bulb in a desklamp. The bulb is a compact flourescent of 20watts 6400K . This was placed in a cardboard box approx 6inches/150mm deep with a layer of aluminium cooking foil for extra reflection. On top of this a sheet of glass, actually an old glass shelf from a refrigerator, which then had a sheet of white printer paper placed on top (not shown).
Thats all there is to it, but I guess it is worth pointing out that you will need a tripod if using this setup, as the light levels are quite low.
Link to the image:
My desk/PC setup. I've got my Sony Vaio laptop, a few books, some CD's, all of my DS games, my Nintendo DS Lite, a lamp, and a stupid little car at the top. :D
Current workstation setup. Could really do with some more monitors, and maybe that gap on the left could take a nice new netbook!
PC is to the right of the desk, in a Coolermaster Cosmos 1000; looks a bit like a portable air-conditioning unit! Main screen is a Samsung 26". Been quite pleased with it, although at some angles does have a bit of a pink cast. It's calibrated with a Spyder 2. The old screen on the right is an NEC 17" - also been a good screen. And then there's the work laptop.
Lighting is from two recessed halogen spots overhead. The walls are actually white.
Must offer apologies to David Bailey, but his book "If We Shadows" is the perfect size so that my laptop can balance on the corner of the desk! Just wish I'd cleaned the finger marks of the glass desktop! ;-)
Details of a podcasting setup for Lip Gloss and Laptops. See www.penmachine.com/2006/03/our-quality-basement-podcast-s... for details.
Macro test setups.
Test object : KC73129MP
Number of Effective Pixels: 500(H) ´ 582(V)
Unit Pixel Size: 9.80um(H) ´ 6.30um(V)
This is a CCD with fine structure as a test object. The structure is uniform, perfectly straight and the dimensions are fixed. The macro magnification can be measured easily.
The 100% crops are always 600x400 pixels. Since a sensor pixel less than 10 um the resolution of the image can be properly checked.
I use a new tube-lens, the AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1:4G ED.
The advantage with this lens is the possibility to change the focalt length. This also changes the macro ratio. The ideal value is 200mm and this lens performs excellently. At other focalt values the quality remains very good but there are problems with the lighting in the corners. You'll practically limited to about 150mm. At 135mm you will have to adjust the angles sure if your image is in that zone. Smaller than 135mm is no longer usable, you lose too much by the dark corners. Successive images show these results.
The left part shows a 100% crop, the right image shows the entire picture. Focalt lenght and lens type are always marked.
Mitutoyo M Plan APO 10X lens is the real winner. That may be for its price. Again, you can not go too low with the focalt value The AIS35mm 2.8 reverse lens performs clearly worse. In contrast, the lens AF50mm doing a lot better. Macro AF60mm when reverse is very limited in length focalt but it does well with 200mm.
This is the result of one shot, there is no stacking used in these tests. Because the sensor is very flat so it can be done.
Macro test setups.
Test object : KC73129MP
Number of Effective Pixels: 500(H) ´ 582(V)
Unit Pixel Size: 9.80um(H) ´ 6.30um(V)
This is a CCD with fine structure as a test object. The structure is uniform, perfectly straight and the dimensions are fixed. The macro magnification can be measured easily.
The 100% crops are always 600x400 pixels. Since a sensor pixel less than 10 um the resolution of the image can be properly checked.
I use a new tube-lens, the AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1:4G ED.
The advantage with this lens is the possibility to change the focalt length. This also changes the macro ratio. The ideal value is 200mm and this lens performs excellently. At other focalt values the quality remains very good but there are problems with the lighting in the corners. You'll practically limited to about 150mm. At 135mm you will have to adjust the angles sure if your image is in that zone. Smaller than 135mm is no longer usable, you lose too much by the dark corners. Successive images show these results.
The left part shows a 100% crop, the right image shows the entire picture. Focalt lenght and lens type are always marked.
Mitutoyo M Plan APO 10X lens is the real winner. That may be for its price. Again, you can not go too low with the focalt value The AIS35mm 2.8 reverse lens performs clearly worse. In contrast, the lens AF50mm doing a lot better. Macro AF60mm when reverse is very limited in length focalt but it does well with 200mm.
This is the result of one shot, there is no stacking used in these tests. Because the sensor is very flat so it can be done.
temp setup for installing xubunut on my shuttle, gotten somewhat messy in 4 days flickr.com/photos/kyre/436593707
Closeup of the laserpointer and the photodiode as detector. The laserpointer is digital pulsed at short intervals. This is more reliable than continu DC signals. 2 laserpointers are used as croslasers. The central point of the 2 laserbeams is the focuspoint where the camera must be manual set. Also the flashes are pointed to this point. the 2 lasers have a distance of 360mm. The camera can be adjusted for a macro ratio from 1:1 tot 1:4 The macro range depends of the insect type. Most insects like fies or bees have a frame of 60mm.
How to take insects in flight see:
Setup for Orchid 27598
White foam board v-flats left & right of subject; a white foam board "roof" on top of the v-flats for top fill & a white foam board base for bottom fill. One SB-800 Right (1/4 power) & bounced into v-flat; (Left SB-800 not used although shown in setup)
My new gaming setup. Read about it here
Btw: Interesting how the Wii bar gets picked up by the digital camera. The red LEDs are invisible with the bare eye.
Macro test setups.
Test object : KC73129MP
Number of Effective Pixels: 500(H) ´ 582(V)
Unit Pixel Size: 9.80um(H) ´ 6.30um(V)
This is a CCD with fine structure as a test object. The structure is uniform, perfectly straight and the dimensions are fixed. The macro magnification can be measured easily.
The 100% crops are always 600x400 pixels. Since a sensor pixel less than 10 um the resolution of the image can be properly checked.
I use a new tube-lens, the AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm 1:4G ED.
The advantage with this lens is the possibility to change the focalt length. This also changes the macro ratio. The ideal value is 200mm and this lens performs excellently. At other focalt values the quality remains very good but there are problems with the lighting in the corners. You'll practically limited to about 150mm. At 135mm you will have to adjust the angles sure if your image is in that zone. Smaller than 135mm is no longer usable, you lose too much by the dark corners. Successive images show these results.
The left part shows a 100% crop, the right image shows the entire picture. Focalt lenght and lens type are always marked.
Mitutoyo M Plan APO 10X lens is the real winner. That may be for its price. Again, you can not go too low with the focalt value The AIS35mm 2.8 reverse lens performs clearly worse. In contrast, the lens AF50mm doing a lot better. Macro AF60mm when reverse is very limited in length focalt but it does well with 200mm.
This is the result of one shot, there is no stacking used in these tests. Because the sensor is very flat so it can be done.
Setup shot for 030/365 Note To Self
Camera Info:
Canon 7D, Canon EF 50mm 1:1.4 USM, f/2.5, 1/250s, ISO 100
Strobist Info:
Canon 430EXII Camera Left and directly facing subject, 1/32 power, @28mm zoom, White shoot through umbrella, 5 feet high & 10 feet away from subject.
Canon 430EXII Camera Right and behind subject, 1/16 power, @70mm zoom, fired bare, 5feet high & 4 feet away from subject.
Canon 430EXII Camera Right, 1/32 power, @70mm zoom, 3 feet high & 3 feet away fired bare at back of subject.
Flashes were triggered with Interfit Strobies. Camera was fired with wired remote self timer.
I did kind of a lazy job on these setup shots, and wish they were better, but I wanted to post something about the setup. This is the front half of last nights water drop setup. I built a mariotte siphon out of PVC pipe, but I then quickly decided that it was not necessary. I am dropping such a small volume of water that the pressure change is not significant. If I go really long, I can just top off the reservoir to keep it at similar water level.
I have been keeping a pretty high water level/pressure. I've found that this allows me to fire shorter pulses to the solenoid valve, and improves repeatability and control of drop size.
This photo was taken at insomnia51
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Photo by David Portass Photography
This is a setup shot for my image: Three Wishes:
www.flickr.com/photos/igods/8238852737/in/set-72157630050...
Target shot photographed with my Nikon D600 and 105mm macro lens. Setup shot done with my Nikon D90 and rented Rokinon 14mm ultrawide manual focus lens.
It was a pretty complex lighting setup, and I even included my [failed] smoke capturing rig. I lit 3 incense sticks, then covered them with the funnel and topped the funnel with an inverted beer bottle to catpure the smoke. I got bupkis.
I eventually broke down and placed an incense cone behind the bottle, but didn't get near the smoke I was hoping for.
Lit with: Nikon SB-700 off camera flash to camera left, shooting horizontally with a snoot. Opposite angle, to camera right, was my mini maglite held in place with my plamp (getting so much use out of that thing). My ring light was my third light (suspended above the subject by a closed cabinet door), pointed straight down on the bottle mouth. I used a white card to reflect some of the SB-700's light back onto the right side of the bottle.
Target specs: Nikon D600, Nikon 105mm, f/3, ISO 400, 1/320 second fast sync flash.
Setup specs: Nikon D90, Rokinon 14mm, estimated f/11, ISO 200, 10 seconds, ambient light.
The setup shot for most of the waterdrop shots. Plastic bags to protect flashes and cactus triggers :)
I used a second tripod with the head upside down and a superclamp attached to the head to hold a waterbottle.
The waterbottle had two holes burned in it using a lighter and a piece of wire. The top hole was taped up but still let in a tiny bit of air.
Setup for some of shots in this set. Yellow paper was running short. Content aware fill helped to extend the background :)
2013, Nov. 30 - Killeen, Texas
This image shows the setup for a few images I took of the wife & kids.
First, the 42-inch diffuser is held by the "Impact Multi-boom Light Stand and Reflector Holder", which is weighted down by two gallon-sized tea jugs filled with water.
Behind the light stand is my Manfrotto tripod fully extended, topped by the Manfrotto Magic Arm for more height. Sitting atop the Magic Arm is my DIY flash bracket, holding both the LumoPro LP160 and the Canon 420EX Speedlite, each fired via Cactus V4 wireless flash trigger.
© Copyright 2013 by Wil C. Fry. All rights reserved.
Setup Shot for 075/365 Pushing Limits.
Camera Info:
Canon 7D, Sigma DC 17-70mm 1:2.8-4 Macro HSM @17mm, f/7.1, 1/250s, ISO 400
Strobist Info:
-Canon 430EXII Camera right (behind camera) and in front of subject, 1/1Power, @105mm zoom, about 5 feet high, 10 feet away from subject fired bare.
-Canon 430EXII Camera right and behind subject, 1/1Power, @105mm zoom, about 5 feet high, 10 feet away from subject fired bare.
-Flash was triggered with Interfit Strobies.
My setup for a ds106 radio show tonight with Bryan Alexander. I was not happy with my audio mixing in NiceCast, and resorted to a lower tech approach.
The MacBookPro on the left was used to Skype with Bryan (open mic and speakers). I also had WireTapPro set up to record all system and input audio.
The old iBook on the right I used to play our eerie audio sounds (via VLC) pumped out to the little speakers
The audio was streamed via Papaya app on my iPhone (sitting in the middle on a book).
The beer makes it all work smoothly.
Walk around set up with Adaptalx.
Nice and lightweight with light options, like color, strength and wide to spot...
Losen the blue strap only to change lens to for example the macro.
It was originally made for mounting on the hot-shoe but it got to unbalanced there so I got som extra 1/4" "bolts" så I could mount it beneath the camera.
If I need to use a tripod etc I just mount the hot-shoe part and put the thingy there.
You control the lights either on the control-pod or via an app where you can save different setups etc.
Wide to spot is made at the tip of the light-arms.
Adatalux: adaptalux.com