View allAll Photos Tagged setup
You can see here the setup that I have used. One 430ex with a white umbrella to illuminate the model from front right. One 420ex with a froam difusor/reflector to illuminate the tree on the background from behind and to put some accent on the model hair at the same time. On camera a 550ex in master mode only, without shining any light to the image.
The background is a very big tree in the middle of the city. Here, in Spain this kind of tree are called "magnolio".
Novoflex arm. Mounting my flash directly onto the tripod collar of the 150mm was not very efficient at all. Had to shoot at f/8 and the flash would pop full power every time. Now I can seem to shoot at ISO 100 f/16 without a full power pop! Hopefully from this photo on my macro's are a bit better overall.
The arm is strong i put my SB600 on top of my sb800 and it still held tight.
I was happy to see it was made in Germany and not Taiwan or China for once lol.
Setup for:
Strobist:
Ranger A Head, A port at 5.0, 135 Midi Octa with both diffusers, behind and just above me (See catchlight).
Ranger Quadra A Head, A port at 4.0, 100 Deep Octa with both diffusers, above subjects.
Ranger Quadra A Head, A port at 4.5, 130x50 strip with both diffusers, rear camera left
Ranger Quadra A Head, A port at 4.5, 130x50 strip with both diffusers, rear camera right
RX600, 5.0, 21cm reflector, rear camera left to light white background.
RX600, 5.0, 21cm reflector, rear camera right to light white background.
Triggered by Skyport Speed.
This photo was taken at insomnia58
Find out more about Multiplay, watch our videos and see all the latest news on the website, facebook and twitter.
Photo by David Portass/iEventMedia.co.uk
Three phone pictures showing the setup. Above: elinchrom striplight with a lighttools grid on a BXRi. Two black screens to block flare from the softboxes in the back that you can see in the bottom picture on the right. The Ranger RX is also showing in the bottom right picture. It has symmetrical output so both softboxes output the same amount of light. With enough distance between the subject and the background, the gray paper backdrop will go completely black - even at f2.8 with a ND filter.
Setup for this: www.flickr.com/photos/martinwilmsen/5823882257/in/photost...
and this: www.flickr.com/photos/martinwilmsen/5823882059/in/photost...
Setup shot for varying the Apparent Light Size control exercise.
www.flickr.com/photos/88935397@N02/8296925143/in/photostr...
Set up shot for this shot.
This is my first attempt at clamshell type lighting and it worked great! I will be doing this more often, now i just need to get a stand to hold the reflector but its a good thing she was more than willing to hold it for us.
With an EE66 modified. f/235, Fl; 75mm, 0,32mm.
Photo location; In my living room, north side.
Donnacona, Québec, Canada.
Fuji FP-100C at 80 ASA.
To my great regret this setup is completely disassembled. I have too many components needed for the new version. The new setup version 2012 is now in development. Schedule for April 2012.
The new version is again a 3D version, but now with a beamsplitter. The laser detection is reworked to keep the weight down. A compact design with a completely new electronics will improve overall performance. Especially the correct stereo base will be a great improvement in macro shots. The new laser detection is also improved by the use of extra frontside mirrors. This should lead to very high quality stereo images of fast moving closeup objects.
Frans.
Setup for backlighting a glass of fake bubbly.
A continuous sweep is formed using a piece of fax paper.
A pair of 20W desk lamps are placed above and behind, so their light patterns overlap to try and get a smooth(ish) gradient to the light.
A pair of V shaped black cards are placed either side of the glass to give some black reflections. These are placed so they are not symmetrical to avoid too formal a light, which I feel matched the backdrop better.
The result can be sen below.
Setup shot for 149/365 On Axis Experiment.
Camera Info:
Canon 7D, Sigma DC 17-70mm 1:2.8-4 Macro HSM, Æ’/4.0, 1/100s, ISO 200
This shot was taken with a crappy iPhone 3G camera
Strobist Info:
-Canon 430EXII Camera directly on axis and behind camera, 1/16 Power, @24mm zoom, about 5.5 feet high, 3 feet away from subject inside 24 inch Photoflex softbox.
-Flash triggered with Interfit Strobies.
Demonstration on how I setup my softboxes and a couple other tips.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ofZszbb3BM
Follow me on Twitter @matthewcoughlin.
Firstly, apologies for the quality of the image - that much backlighting and a phone camera do not mix well...
Simple one this week as using window light only (I wanted the sideways shadow to make it look more like the start of sunset). Background image curtesy of a laptop screen raised into position on that staple of macro aids - the bean can.
Subject was a toy farmyard animal raised up on a cheap lab-lift. Camera was clamped to the table (to avoid tripod issues) using a Manfrotto clamp which was directly mated to a geared head an focus rail.
Camera was a Nikon 1 J5 fitted with a 30-110 lens and 10mm extension. Custom white balance to try and get the aforementioned sunset. Processed in Photoshop to stack around 9 images but otherwise pretty much as it came from the camera.
This is how my entertaiment setup looks like at the moment. If someone ask why I'm uploading this: I don't know. I noticed it's a trend on flickr to upload Work-Setups and Entertaiment-Setups so I'll go with the crowd.
Conatins:
- Phillips Ambilight 42" LED-TV (August 2009)
- Xbox 360 which is mostly used for streaming FullHD content from the iMac
- Nitendo Wii which is underneath this's photos bottom line.
- Thomson Home Cinema System which is on the left side of the Sideboard.
And a lot of other stuff :D
Strobistinfo:
Left: LP160-35mm-1/2-trough A4 paper
Up/back: LP160-50mm-1/2-trough A4 paper
Right/down: LP120-28mm-1/4-trought A4 paper
the setup of this shot: www.flickr.com/photos/yurokaleksandrovich/6713864483/in/p...
1. gridded reflector with barndoors as a key light
2. lace veil close to key light acting as gobo
3. gridded small stripbox positioned vertical as a rimlight
4. gridded reflector as rimlight all lights are elinchrom d-lite units
+ this pic www.flickr.com/photos/yurokaleksandrovich/6749452377/in/p... explains "lace veil gobo"
Setup for boxing shots of Kristen.
Strobist info: Bare 580EX cam left aimed at background, bare 430ex aimed split between wall and model and finally a Vivitar 285HV into shoot-through umbrella from about 8 feet up cam-right pointing right at the model.
There is a quite ugly, kitschy Murano glas bowl in the basin (the one from the fruit salad). Underneath that bowl is a pocket flashlight for nice reflections. The water is dripping from the water tap in the bowl and -- with a little luck -- the drop gets captured by the camera (which is operated via a remote cable trigger).
Canon EOS 500D, Std-Kit-Lense 18-55 on full tele + B+W 4 diopters macro lense, Yongnuo flashlight + Yongnuo remote trigger, both from eBay.
Plus: There is a magical diffusor sock placed in front of the flash -- it won't work without ;-)
Plus: Approx. 30 minutes for testing and arranging the perfect setup and approx 1 h for viewing and deleting the 200 images with no drop in. :-)
Double folded paper as big DIY soft box (okay, you need the stand or voice activated light stand to hold it but cheap & easy solution anyways). Flash was not placed in the middle of the paper because we wanted to control more the spill light that was creating too many shapes to the background.
setup shot for www.flickr.com/photos/fjgphoto/5202279505/
guy with camera
This is the lighting setup I used for my soon to be posted film noir shot. I cutout a light modifier to make fake venetian blinds, and also used a DIY grid snoot. I really could have used another flash as I wanted the bottle of whiskey lit as well, but that will need to wait. Not much of a "studio", but it is what I have in my "man cave" :)
I uploaded this one to show how/where I attached the fishing line (near the base of each glass). The line runs off to the right. I simply pulled it while my son hit the shutter release.
Lighting Info: Canon 580 EX II camera right on 1/2 power shot into an umbrella. SB-26 on 1/2 power camera left shot through an umbrella. Black acrylic table top and black velvet backdrop.
My setup for hobbiest photo editing, etc.
-2 X 27" Apple Cinema Displays (2560x1440p)
-Ducky Shine 3 - Cherry MX Brown, Vortex PBT Keycaps
-Apple Magic Mouse
-E-3lue Mazer Wireless Gaming Mouse
-Steelseries Dota 2 Mousepad
- Bose Companion 3 Series II Speakers and Subwoofer
Setup for this shot, notes should explain everything.
Blog: www.photosmudger.com
Twitter: @photosmudger
The setup of a lamp to get the infinite darkness look (See next picture in Photostream for result). Notice the shadow on the baseplate. That is where the light will stop and the fading to black begins. Be sure to have your ISO set to 100 and Active-D lighting off on your camera. See my blog for full details: wp.me/p1Y4hR-h1
This shows the RR cut running through the table. The highest ground is to the upper right and the terrain slope away to the lower left. The lowest level is the table top itself and the high to the right is up to 4 levels of foam. The packing tape just ties it all together and smoothes the foam edges a bit.
Hmmm, not sure this setup looks anything like the final image, but it would have been so dark, nobody would see anything.
Just pretend the ringflash on the camera lens is turned off :)
Not absolutely sure the 2 spoons are in exactly the same position, as I messed around with angles a lot here.
The key to the shot is the light source behind. This is provided by a diffusion screen with a pair of remote Neewer SF-01 mini slave flashes hidden behind it. These are fired away from the screen to bounce light off a white card placed approx 12inches/30cm behind. You can just make out the shadows of the flashes through the screen.
Directly behind the spoons, a sheet of black card is placed in front of the screen to prevent direct light and provide the black background.
The spoons are placed on a piece of black felt, which does a great job of soaking up stray light and preventing reflections.
What wont be obvious here, is that the surrounding area has black card around it and the room lights were turned off, to prevent any stray relections from showing up in the spoons.
May sound like a lot of work for a very minimalist image, but it's all good fun :)
The final rendition can be seen below:-
Setup used for the ice and water shots, links at the bottom.
The ice and water are placed on a sheet of acrylic which has the underside painted black to make a black mirror. Glass works equally as well.
Behind this is placed a screen of tracing paper, white will also work, but reduces light and gives a slight texture.
The light source is then placed behind the screen, for this shot I used a Yongnuo YN460 set to 1/2 power and mounted on a radio trigger and mini tripod.
If you have a softbox, this would work even better.
To the sides of the ice, are a couple of pieces of black card, folded in half to form a V to make them self standing. These deepen the contrast of the edges of the water and ice.
The hint of blue shown here is simply done by setting the white balance of the camera to the Tungsten setting, making the flash appear blue.
Thats about it, sounds complex, but hopefully this shot will show it's not.
Results from this in the first comment below.