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This is my first attempt of studio illumination with my new strobe kit.. hope you like it..
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Closeup compur1 external shutter and electro magnet. This shutter have a shutterdelay of only 5 msec between command and full open. A normal fast digital camera have 50msec or more shutterdelay. For flying insects you need really short shutterdelay. With 5 msec it works nice but shorter is always better.
How to take insects in flight see:
Setup for the headshot of Sam. I had to hire in extra radio triggers at this point (first shot of the week) as the optical slaves on my aged flashheads were playing up in the bright daylight. Luckily a very speedy despatch from North London to the location saved me from spending the week trailing cables and peanut slaves all over the place.
As always, the notes do the talking.
Blog: www.photosmudger.com/
You can see here the setup that I have used. One 430ex with a white umbrella to illuminate the model from front right. One 420ex with a froam difusor/reflector to illuminate the tree on the background from behind and to put some accent on the model hair at the same time. On camera a 550ex in master mode only, without shining any light to the image.
The background is a very big tree in the middle of the city. Here, in Spain this kind of tree are called "magnolio".
This photo was taken at Insomnia61 #i61.
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Photo Credit - David Portass/iEventMedia
Social and Editorial Use Only (with photographers credit) / All Rights Reserved. All other use please email: photo@iEventMedia.co.uk
Setup shot for 021/365 Optimus Prime
Strobist Info: Canon 430EXII camera right and rear of subject about 3 feet high fired bare about 6 feet away from subject, Canon 430EXII camera left 4 feet high fired into white shoot through umbrella. Flashes were triggered with Interfit Strobies. Shot with my Canon 7D.
A quick 'grab' shot of the setup.
The camera was in 'bulb' mode & manually focused on the balloon. The shot (pun intended) is taken in complete darkness. Each shot was done in the following way;
- with lights on, shooter takes aim
- lights switched off
- camera shutter opened with remote release
- gun fired (this triggers the flash)
- camera shutter closed via remote
- lights switched on & review image
Setup shot for varying the Apparent Light Size control exercise.
www.flickr.com/photos/88935397@N02/8296925143/in/photostr...
This photo was taken at insomnia58
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Photo by David Portass/iEventMedia.co.uk
Setup for backlighting a glass of fake bubbly.
A continuous sweep is formed using a piece of fax paper.
A pair of 20W desk lamps are placed above and behind, so their light patterns overlap to try and get a smooth(ish) gradient to the light.
A pair of V shaped black cards are placed either side of the glass to give some black reflections. These are placed so they are not symmetrical to avoid too formal a light, which I feel matched the backdrop better.
The result can be sen below.
@strobist:
Octabox from above with Jinbei DC-600 and a YN-568 in a softbox from the front left. The softbox in the right was just standing there and was not in use for this shot.
Setup for:
Strobist:
Ranger A Head, A port at 5.0, 135 Midi Octa with both diffusers, behind and just above me (See catchlight).
Ranger Quadra A Head, A port at 4.0, 100 Deep Octa with both diffusers, above subjects.
Ranger Quadra A Head, A port at 4.5, 130x50 strip with both diffusers, rear camera left
Ranger Quadra A Head, A port at 4.5, 130x50 strip with both diffusers, rear camera right
RX600, 5.0, 21cm reflector, rear camera left to light white background.
RX600, 5.0, 21cm reflector, rear camera right to light white background.
Triggered by Skyport Speed.
Set up shot for this shot.
This is my first attempt at clamshell type lighting and it worked great! I will be doing this more often, now i just need to get a stand to hold the reflector but its a good thing she was more than willing to hold it for us.
Strobistinfo:
Left: LP160-35mm-1/2-trough A4 paper
Up/back: LP160-50mm-1/2-trough A4 paper
Right/down: LP120-28mm-1/4-trought A4 paper
- 580 EXII @ 1/4 24mm with 1/4 CTO trough Apollo Westcott Softbox cam right
- 430 EX II @ 1/4 105mm bare cam left
- 430 EX II @ 1/4 105mm bare cam right
- EOS 5D MKII @ 1/160 ISO 500
- EF 50 1.4 @ f/7.1
- triggered with Yongnuo RF-602
Simple setup for darkfield lighting.
A pair of tracing paper screens with a sheet of black card between them.
A pair of 20W CFL desklamps located behind the black card, which illuminate the screens.
The vase is sat on a glass shelf suspended approx 2inches/50mm above the surface of the table and has a silver reflector under, but I dont think it contributed much, if anything.
Closer view shown below:
This is just perfect tbh.
People need to give the 'bed chair' a go, its fantastic. Especially here, where it keeps me right in the middle of my 5.1 and being on the bed keeps everything within reach!
Nothing wildly exciting about the setup, more tried and tested. A pair of Neewer SF-01 mini slave flashes to either side, partly lighting the backdrop and some difussed light through tracing paper screens falling on the leaf.
A third Neewer located below and behind the base as main light on the backdrop.
The two to the sides fired by Blazzeo SLT-4 radio triggers, the one behind by it's optical sensor.
An additional flash was added for this setup shot as it was a bit dark with the dark blue backdrop. It has washed out the colour of the card backdrop a bit, but the reflection in the acrylic sheet used as the shooting surface gives a good indication of the colour.
This is my setup for the Dylan/Christina Shoot Located in This Set.
Strobist Info
1 SB600 Camera Left and High
Bounced off 45" Umbrella
Fired at Full Power Using Nikon CLS
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Hmmm, not sure this setup looks anything like the final image, but it would have been so dark, nobody would see anything.
Just pretend the ringflash on the camera lens is turned off :)
Not absolutely sure the 2 spoons are in exactly the same position, as I messed around with angles a lot here.
The key to the shot is the light source behind. This is provided by a diffusion screen with a pair of remote Neewer SF-01 mini slave flashes hidden behind it. These are fired away from the screen to bounce light off a white card placed approx 12inches/30cm behind. You can just make out the shadows of the flashes through the screen.
Directly behind the spoons, a sheet of black card is placed in front of the screen to prevent direct light and provide the black background.
The spoons are placed on a piece of black felt, which does a great job of soaking up stray light and preventing reflections.
What wont be obvious here, is that the surrounding area has black card around it and the room lights were turned off, to prevent any stray relections from showing up in the spoons.
May sound like a lot of work for a very minimalist image, but it's all good fun :)
The final rendition can be seen below:-
Setup used for the ice and water shots, links at the bottom.
The ice and water are placed on a sheet of acrylic which has the underside painted black to make a black mirror. Glass works equally as well.
Behind this is placed a screen of tracing paper, white will also work, but reduces light and gives a slight texture.
The light source is then placed behind the screen, for this shot I used a Yongnuo YN460 set to 1/2 power and mounted on a radio trigger and mini tripod.
If you have a softbox, this would work even better.
To the sides of the ice, are a couple of pieces of black card, folded in half to form a V to make them self standing. These deepen the contrast of the edges of the water and ice.
The hint of blue shown here is simply done by setting the white balance of the camera to the Tungsten setting, making the flash appear blue.
Thats about it, sounds complex, but hopefully this shot will show it's not.
Results from this in the first comment below.
There is a quite ugly, kitschy Murano glas bowl in the basin (the one from the fruit salad). Underneath that bowl is a pocket flashlight for nice reflections. The water is dripping from the water tap in the bowl and -- with a little luck -- the drop gets captured by the camera (which is operated via a remote cable trigger).
Canon EOS 500D, Std-Kit-Lense 18-55 on full tele + B+W 4 diopters macro lense, Yongnuo flashlight + Yongnuo remote trigger, both from eBay.
Plus: There is a magical diffusor sock placed in front of the flash -- it won't work without ;-)
Plus: Approx. 30 minutes for testing and arranging the perfect setup and approx 1 h for viewing and deleting the 200 images with no drop in. :-)
The new setup for 2010. New design is now almost ready. Many new function are added into the new version. The hole unit is redesigned for optimal use. Wireless remote flash control is now integrated into the main setup. The wireless works on 868 MHz and drive multiple remote flashes in TTL mode. All setings are done via the console on the unit. New function like temperature, time clock and many small change like short disable of the camera during capture to re-aline the lasers to the object etc.. An extra third AVR controller (Atmega328P) is added to the unit to support the new functions. The basic controller stay the CPLD board due to the highspeed timings and the parallel processing of all the functions. The number of I/O signals is increased. The lasers need to be redesigned for better fine-tuning. This must result into capture of supersmall insects in-flight, smaller than 0.5mm
The old version ano 2009 stay actief until the new version is ready. The parts are in stock, drawings are made now. This take a lot of time to realise but the proposed time to be operational is near begin March 2010.
This is the lighting setup I used for my soon to be posted film noir shot. I cutout a light modifier to make fake venetian blinds, and also used a DIY grid snoot. I really could have used another flash as I wanted the bottle of whiskey lit as well, but that will need to wait. Not much of a "studio", but it is what I have in my "man cave" :)
Setup for this shot, notes should explain everything.
Blog: www.photosmudger.com
Twitter: @photosmudger