View allAll Photos Tagged setup
This is a view of my setup from the couch. Out of frame on the lower left is the eye for the IR repeater on the other side of the wall for all the devices. Photo on top of the TV is courtesy of Mike Houge (fellow Flickr user) That is a Pioneer 42" Plasma connected to both an Intel Mac Mini and a big PC, with the second display (19" LCD) as the PC's main display. - Uploaded with a demo version of FlickrExport 2.
Setup shot.
Strobist:
- One flourescent light stick on either side.
- 580 attached to homemade ringlight (triggered off camera cord - manual)
- 500DG for hair/hat light (triggered optically)
Setup as of 1/19/09
24" iMac and 13" MacBook Pro
Full keyboard, and Magic Mouse
1 of 2 iPhones (his and hers)
Logitech Speakers
Bit more of an elevated view of the setup today, which I hope will show how it was all put together.
This shot was all about getting a balance between the lights and it did take a bit of playing to get where I wanted.
There are 3 x 20W CFL lamps in use here, so starting with the simplest. The circle of purple on the backdrop is provided by a bulb mounted in a Pringles tube snoot, which has the end 4inches/10cm's lined with black paper to give the tight circle.
Next on the left, a desk lamp with a built in chrome reflector, placed behind a screen of white printer paper, which is used to put a little light on the shadow side of the figurine.
Finally on the right, the one that took me longest to get right. The lamp here is fitted into another Pringles tube which acts as a reflector and allows the light to be directed. Not sure it shows in the photo, but the reflector makes this lamp more efficient and is quite a bit brighter which gave a bit of a problem.
The screen in front of it has 3 layers of paper to reduce the power. There are 2 sheets of tracing paper seperated by the width of the box which makes up the screen, which is about 2inches/50mm.
In addition a sheet of white printer paper is added to the front screen, but leaving a gap at the base. This allowed the light to fall off with height so the small figurine was lit from the side, rather than above.
Now I guess I had better go out and get some more light fittings so I can expand this further :)
The setup I use for taking flower closeup focus stacks. A background draped over or stuck to a wine cooler (in this case some butyl rubber pond liner but often a sheet of paper) height of the subject varied using wine mats. Once I've got a shooting I want I simply slide the lens on the table mat (camera is handheld) for the varying focus points for the stack. In case you are wondering I also often make rubber washers from the rubber sheet :)
Setup showing a DIY lightbox in use to backlight a leaf. More details on the simple construction of the box can be found here : www.flickr.com/photos/steveblackdog/5066764683/
The top surface for this shot is a see through document wallet containing a single sheet of tracing paper. This is perfectly strong enough for a light object like a leaf. For anything heavier, a sheet of glass or clear acrylic on top of this is required.
Lighting is provided by a single Neewer SF-01 mini slave flash, fring through an opening at one end of the box. The inside of this box is white, so nothing further is required, though I have got a sheet of white paper in the bottom.
Mounted above to give a little bit of light to the top, is a Yongnuo YN460 with the power dialed right down to 1/64th to give a tiny bit of fill light.
The Neewer flash lighting the box is activated with a Blazzeo SLT-4 radio trigger, while the Yongnuo above uses its optical sensor.
Setup used for this series of shots, excuse the mess which built up over a couple of days of playing with this.
The chunk of broken glass is sat on a sheet of glass from a 12" x 10" (300mm x 250mm) picture frame and has the underside spray painted black to create a black mirror.
This in turn is sat on an old glass shelf (material not important) which is used to raise everything above the tables surface. This is to enable the snooted light to be placed underneath.
There are 3 x 20W CFL lamps in use for these shots. The first is the snooted light under the shelf, which has a Pringles tube fitted to it and this creates the circle of light on the background.
The other 2 lights are placed to the sides, behind screens of tracing paper to illuminate the subject tself and care is taked to avoid light from these leaking onto the background, within the frame of the shot anyway. You will have noticed that the screen on the left is partly blacked out with a piece of card, this is to give a narower light to bring out the texture in the glass, rather than an even illumination.
Due to the slow shutter speeds, mounting the camera on a tripod is essential for this type of shot.
Hopefully, some info which will prove useful amongst this lot.
I guess putting the various shots together in the comments below will show the differences well to make comparisons. Worth a try anyway :)
White macbook
* 2.4 core 2 with 2GB of RAM and 160 GB HDD.
* Second Display - Samsung SyncMaster 931b
* Aluminum Apple wired Keyboard
* Logitech Mouse, temporary thanks to my dead MX Revolution
* Altec Lansing 2.1 Speakers
* 1st Gen 8GB iPhone
* 500GB HDD used for Time Machine
* PodXT Live
* Effects pedals - digital delay, distortion, flanger, super chorus
So far, I love this setup. The only downside is that it is about counter height, and I have yet to find a decent stool for that.
Image here www.flickr.com/photos/louisedavis/6807600603/in/photostream/
Strobist info
580ex @ 1/8 power on background
580ex @ 1/32 power through snoot on figures
Triggered by pocket wizards
Dave McDuff getting his setup on! [http://www.flickr.com/photos/mcduffs/4439149199/]
I'd love to hear your feedback - critique and comments very welcome.
Check out my blog at www.jvlphoto.com
Here is the set-up for the Screaming Self Portrait images.
Strobist Info: SB-28 set at 1/8th power through umbrella to camera right. SB-600 and some old minolta flash aimed at background one from right and one from left. The SB-600 was set to 1/8th and the minolta has no power settings so I used 3 layers of a white handkerchief as a ND filter (I heard that each layer is a stop so it was also at about 1/8th). I put a gobo on each of the background lights to prevent any light from spilling on me.
This is the lighting setup for the Gem turtle... Take 2 picture:
Hover over the image to see the note areas with individual component descriptions.
This is the setup shot for the Ashley series. (Distances are NOT to scale)
The main was a Multiblitz Profilux 200 w/s in a Photoflex 24"x32" (Medium) and was about 3-4' from the subject. I didn't record the main or fill settings, but the exposure was f5.6 so I'm guessing the main was between 1/4 and 1/2 power.
The fill was a similar unit in a 42" white umbrella above the camera position and was set for one stop less than the main.
Both hair lights were Vivitar 285's, one in a Photoflex 12x16" (XS) softbox and the other with a Honl 1/8" grid. I would have liked to have used another XS softbox for the second hair light, but it would have appeared in frame in some shots.
The softbox was at 1/16th power and the gridded Vivitar was at 1/16th with a 1 stop ND filter.
The background was a plain white wall about 5-6' from the subject at the near end. It was lit entirely by spill from the main and fill. Exposure was controlled by the distance of the subject (and main light) from the background.
Angling the wall away from the subject created the Chiaroscuro effect with the background brighter on the left and fading to the right. The Main, being on the opposite side, lights from right to left.
SB28 behind deo 1/16th power, yellow gel to colorize the deo
SB28 into umbrella, 1/8th power, 4 o'clock, highlight the deo can
Set up for my homage to the poor souls of Haiti. Very simple, but a real challenge for me to get the image I was after.
Just 2 light sources, underneath in a cardboard box, a Vivitar 2800 with a paper mask over the face to reduce the light output, triggered with ebay trigger. On top of the box, a sheet of glass, which in turn is covered by a 3mm thick sheet of white polystyrene, then the map printed on 80gsm photopaper, on which the candle was placed.
Excuse the pink highlight, this was from a second flash used to add a bit more light for the setup shot which I didnt notice until I had packed everything away :-)
Set up for this
Becoming a familiar setup :)
Simple setup of 2 sheets of tracing paper seperated by about 2inches/50mm to give a good even spread of light. Behind this there are 3 x 20W CFL lamps shining directly onto the screen.
The bottle is placed on a polythene business card box to raise it above the sheet of glass which has white card under it. This is flanked either side by sheets of black card to bring out contrast.
Though it appears this was taken in the dark, it wasn't, the room was well illuminated at the time, the concentrated light and aperture/shutter speed keeping out extra light.
Canon 5D Mark III, Canon EF 70-200mm Æ’2.8L IS II USM @ 123mm. Key light: Profoto B1 500 Air TTL in a Profoto 2' x 2' softbox, slaved to the fill light. Fill light: Canon 600EX-RT in a Westcott softbox, triggered by a Canon ST-E3-RT radio remote. In addition, Leona held a piece of white foamcore board to reflect light and further soften shadows.
The camera was in manual mode (see Exif on the previous photo ) and both flashes were in manual mode. The Canon 600-EX-RT has plenty of power for use in a softbox; I had to dial down the power to 1/16 of full power +â…“ stop. One can quibble endlessly over fill. Dialing it down a little further might have given a more pleasing fill-to-key ratio, but If I am to err on a female portrait I prefer to err on the side of a lower ratio. I confirmed flash fill ratio and aperture with a Sekonic L478D incident light meter.
Wouldn't it be fantastic if all manufacturers could agree on a single standard for flash-triggering radio!? There would still be room for various manufacturers to sell their own brand of triggers, but they would work with everyone else's cameras and flashes, both radio-equipped Speedlite types and studio strobes.
I made this setup photo with a Canon 60Da DSLR and a Canon 16-35mm lÆ’2.8L II USM lens. In this instance I used the 60Da's small built-in flash to trigger the two softbox strobes. The built-in flash did not contribute to the light in this setup photo.
The setup for the match experiment.
Photo is lit with "El Cheapo Adjust Light" and made with my Cellphone.
Final results you can find here:
I took a picture of a blank card in a pile of coffee beans today. I though I'd share the "simple" setup with you. Who needs a light tent when you can build one with things you get for free.
It's basically a one-light setup with a single Cullman CX 35 at 1/4 power on top of the light tent at about 90° to the camera axis
List of materials:
2 foam cards + 1 foam stripe in front as well as smaller parts in the back
6 empty bottles of beer
5-in-1 reflector
Tripod
Cullman CX 35 Flash
Canon 400D + EF 50mm F/1.4 USM
Coffee beans
white card
Setup Shot for Nina Maluhia
Strobist:
- 22in Kacey Beauty Dish
- Vivitar 285HV
- YongNuo RF602
Example Final can be seen here:
So it's come to this. Photos of my desk to keep this photostream going ;)
The screensaver is called Hills, btw.
Setup for this shot:
www.flickr.com/photos/dath1974/4615443786/
[ Strobist Info -- Hopefully you can see it! ]
This is the setup for the photo Corkscrew for the Strobist Lighting102 Assignment - Cooking Light.
The plastic tube in the middle contains an SB-800. The SB-24 on the right is mounted on the light stand with a Manfrotto Super Clamp. See final photo for more strobist info.
read about how I set-up my Personal Domino as my main planner :) breakitdawns.blogspot.com/2013/11/planner-setup-personal-...
setup for this shot.
DISCLAIMER: That is not the arm pit of Mer, it was Photoshop, and yes she was sitting next to me when I did it, no she wasn't mad, and yes we did have a good laugh about it...hahahaha