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Getting ready to cut the top out of the case to fit the Black Ice SR1 480mm radiator in - the stock case fits a 360mm radiator but since I'm removing the optical drive bay it makes sense to go 480mm.
My modification to the spaceship in set #70821. I felt it could be closed in a little. The custom prints on the side including the moon logo are from Steindrucker.
Chevy alternator wired with a sidemarker lamp on the dash for for a diode and tells if its charging.
From first glance I knew I wanted to get this. But the gap on the canopy was unacceptable! The other mods were just my preference. Plus I added a crew.
Use magnet to store chuck key.
These magnets were taken out of an abandoned hard drive which, like most things i deal with, was found on the streets for free.
www.cheaphack.net/2008/03/my-minilathe-and-several-mods-t...
Removing the spring was a dangerous business done at arms length with a long screw driver and safety goggles. Perhaps I should have put the camera down too :)
Needless to say it ended up halfway down the garage narrowly missing my nice new headlamps
Further stick modifications courtesy of Evilstevie. This is a Jessops clamp attached to the stick so that rather than fumbling one-handedly with my bag on a mosey about, I can just push down the lens cover and I'm set up, on a tripod (well, monopod) ready to go for reasonably steady pictures.
StickCam can also be applied to my elbow crutches or wheelchair, and is removed for non-camera occasions.
When I'm next up to having a little walk at night, we might see what pictures are like if combined with my StickLights...
(this pic taken by Evilstevie)
With the fluorescent dot lit up, you can see that the light is actually on and working. (btw, the power light (red) is showing that the batteries are low)
You can do this yourself...
All you need is:
Headlight
1/16" Drill Bit
Hand Drill
1/16" Blue or Green Fluorescent Rod (available at hobby shops)
Hobby Knife
Emery Board
Clear Blue or Green Hobby Paint
Carefully drill a 1/16" hole in the shroud of the light in front of the lens.
Using the hobby knife, cut the fluorescent rod at a sharp angle (resembling a hypodermic needle).
Press the rod into the hole, from the top of the light until it extends past the end of the cut (if it's too loose, a drop of CA glue can set it into place).
Cut the rod about 3/16" above the top of the light. Clean up the cut with the emery board, then firmly press the rod flush with the top of the light using a hard flat surface. lastly, trim off the extra from the inside of the shroud. If you like, a drop of clear blue or green hobby paint can improve the color of the light.
With a simple glance, you can now tell if the light is on, or off, flashing or steady, even if you can't see the beam due to dark/wet conditions.
The tie is supposed to be single layer with the edges hemmed; I folded it in half and sewed down the side to make it narrower.
Honda Pilot Body Style Change 2015 Destop Wallpapers, 1600 x 1200, 215 KB
Honda Pilot Body Style Change 2015 HD wallpapers
wallpaperscene.com/cars/honda-pilot-body-style-change-201...
Büssing bus, originally a bendy bus, this has been modified by someone, not only being shortened, but also being converted to right-hand drive., Hammer 1:87 scale plastic, West Germany. Although marked 'Büssing' on the base, the grille has the name of the makers of the body, Gaubschat.
Here is a link to how it started life: www.flickr.com/photos/adrianz-toyz/25024455793
The advert on the rear encourages one to 'See Britain by Coach'. Unlikely in a bus like this, I feel.
The general trend for quickly solving the problem with the intake elbow is to cut off the flexible part and install it back to front. this solves the clearance issue but now it has to point down as the TPS connector is in the way if you point it to the back of the car. The rocker cover breather pipe easily connects to the first of the two holes but the connection to the ICV is too short so I'll lengthen that hose with some 22mm copper pipe.
Where to put the MAF and the cone air filter will be a challenge too. lots of people either go down and through to the passenger footwell or take a feed from above the rad. My plan is to pop the whole lot down in the area that the alternator originally went leaving the rear of the engine bay for fuel and coolant stuff
The power light is on, but the beam is actually off. How would I be able to tell, at a glance, on a dark wet night, without taking my hands off the controls of the bike?
Follow the steps below you can add a fluorescent dot to make it clear if it's working or not.
All you need is:
Headlight
1/16" Drill Bit
Hand Drill
1/16" Blue or Green Fluorescent Rod (available at hobby shops)
Hobby Knife
Emery Board
Clear Blue or Green Hobby Paint
Carefully drill a 1/16" hole in the shroud of the light in front of the lens.
Using the hobby knife, cut the fluorescent rod at a sharp angle (resembling a hypodermic needle).
Press the rod into the hole, from the top of the light until it extends past the end of the cut (if it's too loose, a drop of CA glue can set it into place).
Cut the rod about 3/16" above the top of the light. Clean up the cut with the emery board, then firmly press the rod flush with the top of the light using a hard flat surface. lastly, trim off the extra from the inside of the shroud. If you like, a drop of clear blue or green hobby paint can improve the color of the light.
With a simple glance, you can now tell if the light is on, or off, flashing or steady, even if you can't see the beam due to dark/wet conditions.