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Inner Shielding removed and certain sections cut out to allow for easier access for modification at a later point, such as hard drive replacement and such, as well as better cooling, painted a nice blue color since the plastic panel covering it is now a frosted clear and you can see through it... coming soon should be some internal adjustable lighting to show off the internal mods as well as increase the wow factor of having a clear laptop...
The power light is on, but the beam is actually off. How would I be able to tell, at a glance, on a dark wet night, without taking my hands off the controls of the bike?
Follow the steps below you can add a fluorescent dot to make it clear if it's working or not.
All you need is:
Headlight
1/16" Drill Bit
Hand Drill
1/16" Blue or Green Fluorescent Rod (available at hobby shops)
Hobby Knife
Emery Board
Clear Blue or Green Hobby Paint
Carefully drill a 1/16" hole in the shroud of the light in front of the lens.
Using the hobby knife, cut the fluorescent rod at a sharp angle (resembling a hypodermic needle).
Press the rod into the hole, from the top of the light until it extends past the end of the cut (if it's too loose, a drop of CA glue can set it into place).
Cut the rod about 3/16" above the top of the light. Clean up the cut with the emery board, then firmly press the rod flush with the top of the light using a hard flat surface. lastly, trim off the extra from the inside of the shroud. If you like, a drop of clear blue or green hobby paint can improve the color of the light.
With a simple glance, you can now tell if the light is on, or off, flashing or steady, even if you can't see the beam due to dark/wet conditions.
A construction barge builds a wall along the L-40 Levee in the Arthur R. Marshall Loxahatchee National Wildlife Refuge. Modifications to the levee are part of the creation of the Fran Reich Preserve (Site 1 Impoundment) that will capture and store water normally discharged through the Hillsboro Canal.
From 10th to 31th October
- New Necklace
Resizer inside, possible to delete it !
PS: sim limited in script ( 50)
I could not get the Tee to slide into the chassis, so I removed 0.060" from the top 45 angle. I do not know if I misread a dimension or what, but I did not want to disassemble the frame to insert the Tee. I checked my 3D model first, and there is still 0.103" of material between the steam inlet and the relieved angle.
File these two posts located by the AC IN and Power Switch down until you are just about to breakthrough to the screw hole inside the post.
Custom IBook I'm working on. Custom Black Paintjob on the inside of the clear plastic/acrylic casing, apple logos stripped out and backlit.... inside shielding removed so when the case is open the inside is see through, so you can see the inside electronics... Upgraded Hardrive, ram, soon to be overclocked and fedora core 7 linux installed.
I figured that since everyone else in the world has made a variation or upgrade on the m4/m16, i would too. I took the m16a4 bolt, 20" barel, m4 birdcage flash hider, then suped it up with various stuff.
The two main problems to address are the locator pins on the front of each runner plus the angle of the metal where the floor bolts go through. The locator pin comes off easily with a hacksaw. Three of the angle tabs can also be easily bent flat by sticking them in a vice and slowly easing them into shape using the length of the runners as a nice lever.
The addition of a 10K trimpot in series with the 2.2K resistor allowed me to set the lower end of the coverage to 7 MHz. AA7EE made a similar modification but substituted a 10K trimpot for the 2.2K resistor (R12) aa7ee.wordpress.com/2011/07/24/the-wbr-a-simple-high-perf...
This is a picture from my propane smoker's user manual. My smoker does not have the side dampers as this picture shows, and this is the only picture in the entire manual that shows side dampers.
Upon further research, other, more expensive versions of my smoker have these side dampers, which is probably why this graphic has the side dampers visible (reused graphic).
I'm having a very difficult time getting an internal temperature below 250 degrees in my smoker, 180-200 being optimal for things like brisket and seafood. My plan is to buy or otherwise obtain two damper covers, drill some holes, and install the dampers as shown in this picture on my smoker.
Theoretically, this will allow cooler outside air to mix with the hot air and smoke between the fire and the meat, keeping the fire hot (and the wood smoking) while keep the meat from cooking too quickly.
Some older AI images modified with new Photoshop beta. Borders were expanded and then auto filled by Photoshop. A whole new world.
Custom Residential Concepts specializes in transforming ordinary spaces into extraordinary places
Through architectural detailing and design consultation we can elevate the sophistication of any home. Our services include Interior Architectural Detailing, Floor Plan Modifications and Space Planning, Exterior Architectural Detailing, Décor, and Staging.