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This works well on the 1651 or 1951 u-joints, but the 5151 does not even need them to be snapped together. The 5151 part is better, as it is stronger and has rounded edges for better free mobility or movement.
My first modification to the central area of the UCS Falcon which originally contains a beige turret control seat and nothing else. I attached a more "realistic" seat connected on the other side of the bulkhead from the blaster turret (like it is in universe). I then added some computer lights and mechanics around the pilot inside the ship. By moving the seat to the new location you can now see the operator perfectly through the viewing window. Just behind this area I also installed the top section of a make-shift power core; which provides power to the rest of the ship; including the hyperdrive. As I get more hoses and cables and other fun power conduit type stuff I hope to add them running from the power core to other parts of the ship, disappearing behind panels. I'm also hoping to get a small LED light in the middle of the power core so it can glow blue. If anyone has any other ideas, please let me know.
The case opens when four long screws are removed via the bottom. The gears are greased and we would like to keep them that way throughout the procedure. At this point we get our first view of some key elements: the feedback potentiometer and the mechanical stop on the output gear.
I think part of the problem may be the changer, which is for the Pedersen hub.
I have altered it slightly to allow a fourth position - shown above - which seemed to allow all three gears in a stationary test, but not on the road.
Observe also the ingeniously-contrived barrel adjuster, using parts from a Sturmey-Archer changer, and the surprisingly effective method of attaching the control cable, which is passed through the hole where the indicator chain used to go, doubled back and whipped into a loop using wire.
It's very hard to capture in a photo, but I'm almost certain these bricks came from the same mold. Both are hollow-stud block letter, but the top has two slots, and the bottom has none. I think the slots came later, because there is NO sign of a ghost slot in the bottom brick.
Now it's time to set the potentiometer in its centered position permanently. Here I'm positioning it with a screwdriver. The procedure is just like before: connect the servo to a receiver and turn on the transmitter with the stick in a neutral position. Then turn the potentiometer until you find the spot where the motor stops spinning. Now we want to glue the knob in place.
The Nintendo NAS contains the following hardware.
CV860A Motherboard with onboard Via Eden C3 at 800Mhz
512 Mb RAM
400Gb 3.5″ IDE Hard disk.
3 * 100MB Lan connections
The LEDs on the front panel indicate power, disk activity and LAN activity. The power button turns the NAS on (funny that!) The reset button is not connected.
I’ve not put a CDROM drive inside the unit that utilises the cartridge flap on the front. Ive mounted the hard drive behind it instead.
The plan was to install FreeNAS, but I’ve now decided to put Ubuntu server on instead. I can then put a full Apache/MySQL installation on it and publish its website to the internet. I will put a guest book system on it, so visitors can sigh the log. Keep an eye on nintendonas.retrocomputers.eu . I should have the site live by the new year.
Dont forget to checkout www.retrocomputers.eu for more info about my retro computer collection.
Here's the Tumbler that Brent Waller designed with a slight modification... I was able to fit an Exo-Force light brick inside that works when you push down on the "fins" up top.
Tomica Mitsubishi Evoltion VII finished modification, before and after (the date included was not the date I finished modifying the evolution).
The organ was built by W G Vowles of Bristol in 1884 with tonal modifications by Percy Daniel & Co 1971.
Building began in the early 1400s, though the church was apparently built on the remains of an earlier foundation (the earliest recorded Rector's name dates from 1264). It is strikingly placed on a small hill, dominating the town square, which itself still keeps its medieval shape. The entrance up the church steps is narrow, so that the full beauty of the building is only gradually revealed as you approach. The church is built of limestone and decorated with Doulting stone, the steps are an interesting example of Dolomitic Conglomerate (pudding stone). The pierced parapets are an attractive feature. The crossing tower is over 100 feet high, and holds six bells. The statue on the east side is that of St John the Baptist. On the west side is a king - perhaps Henry VII, which would place it after 1485.
left:
CP Soo SP, modding head, opening eyes.
Not done yet. I need to get the eyeshape right first, and also need to make some space inside her head for the eyeballs.
Middle:
CP Feeple Esther SP
I opened the eyes. They were totally closed, so it was difficult to open them since it's a small head and I didn't want to open them too much.
The mouth is also mchanged a bit. I made the mouth a bit wider by changing the corners of the mouth. The lips are also sanded.
Right:
CP Nanuri (2007)
This boy face needs to become a girl.
I am sanding off parts of the heavy eyebrows, and the nose is already a bit tinier. I am not done yet, I need to get it balanced more. Also the eyes are opened, but need to be a bit more opened first.
Still a lot to work on
To be more versitile, this mod can transform into a simple camera holder if you add a 1/4" bolt to this end cap.
Modification - replaced stock pressure plate with much lighter CNC aluminum vented plate. Replace the older chrome place cover with CycleCAT 3 piece aluminum cover too. Performance improvement? Hell no... I just want my lady look cool!
Sooo i pierced my cartilage with a safety pin and it didn't even hurt. =] Then I pierced my other ear and that one hurt a little bit but healed up pretty good. And when my ear was still a 2 gauge
While the epoxy is still wet, I'm pressing the output gear onto the base it sits on. This should push the excess epoxy away. If I didn't do this the gear wouldn't be able to turn after the epoxy hardened.
[Use superglue, avoid this problem.]
You can make it into a gimbal or a camera holder, as you choose. I glued this washer into place inside the end cap.
The flow going through the bridge siphon had reduced over time to almost nothing so i had to investigate. When i removed it i found that roots had almost completely blocked it!
In order to replace it with the media still in the beds i've had to install a media guard in each bed. The siphon is now just sitting there and can be removed for cleaning. A bonus with this new setup is i can see the water levels inside the media guards as they rise and fall in both beds.