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1. I make bigger aperture hole ~7mm for poor light shots.
2. I move range stopper, so now Holga can make shots from ~55 cm.
Temporary film-plane modification of the Koroll 24 camera that I previously used in week 132 of my 52 film cameras in 52 weeks project:
www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/collections/72157623113584240
I liberally applied sellotape in overlapping criss-cross strips at the film plane.
As the name suggests, this model manages to squeeze 24 exposures out of a roll of 120 film, by using a mask to make the image size 3cm x 4cm. The edges of the film are wasted, but by using the "12 frame" backing paper markings twice, 24 exposures are made.
I removed the mask, so the full width of the film is exposed, and the frames overlap, but if a full frame is desired, the film can simply be advanced twice.
The film was expired Fujichrome Provia ISO400 slide film, which I cross processed in Tetenal C41 chemistry.
Today I did a awesome modification to a BrickArms M4 Carbine: by cutting the barrel in half and cutting off the rail/handle, I created a "Commando", one of the assault rifles featured in Call of Duty: Black Ops, and it is definetly one of my Top 10 favorite Black Ops weapons. Plus, my favorite character, Frank Woods, is almost always seen wielding this gun, usually with an ACOG scope.
Adding a #4 machine screw to the output gear is a good idea if the load on the servo could strip the plastic threads of the output gear.
To put this screw in place I had to drill out the output gear twice. First I drilled right through to allow the screw to fit. Then I drilled the bottom a bit wider to accomodate the screw head. Be careful not to drill farther than necessary with this latter operation.
There's really nothing holding the screw in place at this point but it doesn't slip easily either.
Not only did I trim the knob flush with the collar, I cut a little slot across both the collar and knob. This is to help the epoxy lock the pot's shaft in place. Ideally this slot make a straight line when the pot is in the centered position. That's why we made the effort to line it up before trimming it.
I used a dremel rotary tool with a cutting wheel to trim off the knob then make this slot.
[Actually using superglue instead of epoxy is recommended on these plastic parts. And the slot is pretty much unnecessary in that case.]
This works well on the 1651 or 1951 u-joints, but the 5151 does not even need them to be snapped together. The 5151 part is better, as it is stronger and has rounded edges for better free mobility or movement.
My first modification to the central area of the UCS Falcon which originally contains a beige turret control seat and nothing else. I attached a more "realistic" seat connected on the other side of the bulkhead from the blaster turret (like it is in universe). I then added some computer lights and mechanics around the pilot inside the ship. By moving the seat to the new location you can now see the operator perfectly through the viewing window. Just behind this area I also installed the top section of a make-shift power core; which provides power to the rest of the ship; including the hyperdrive. As I get more hoses and cables and other fun power conduit type stuff I hope to add them running from the power core to other parts of the ship, disappearing behind panels. I'm also hoping to get a small LED light in the middle of the power core so it can glow blue. If anyone has any other ideas, please let me know.
Oh boy...
Fairy-2 Decembers ago, done by doctor
Purple 10G. Plug- peirced by a friend in bathroom. Went from 18G to 10 with whatever unlabled crap i found at Pericing Pagoda.
Black Studs-Self Peired at different times.
The case opens when four long screws are removed via the bottom. The gears are greased and we would like to keep them that way throughout the procedure. At this point we get our first view of some key elements: the feedback potentiometer and the mechanical stop on the output gear.
Chinatown Central Plaza Mid-Block PED XING - Pedestrian Crosswalk Crossing traffic signal flashing yellow lights switched off and Bernard Street intersection traffic signal flashing red lights modification controlled by LADOT Special Traffic Operations during the operation of the Los Angeles Chinatown Golden Dragon Parade located at 639 to 651 North Broadway in Chinatown Los Angeles, California 90012 between two towers of Jia Apartments 甲公寓 and Cathay Manor Senior Apartments 國泰莊園老人公寓, LA - Los Angeles Vision Optometry 洛杉磯市視力驗光眼科醫師博士, HSBC - Hong Kong Shanghai Banking Corporation 香港上海滙豐銀行公司 (港滬銀), Teo Chew Association Temple 潮州會館廟 and BC Plaza 百昌商場.
Note: The new current G.D.P. route travelled Southbound Broadway and made a left turn at Eastbound West Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and ENDS at a right turn into Southbound Spring Street Olvera Street for parade floats disbanding zone since February 2007 to February 2012 but now this Golden Dragon Parade route on Southbound Broadway turns right to Westbound Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and ENDS at North Hill Street overpass bridge and North Grand Avenue for parade floats disbanding zone since February 2013 to present. The former G.D.P. route was on Northbound Broadway (ended here until 2000) from Cesar E. Chavez Avenue to Bernard Street and Southbound Hill Street at Ord Street took place here until 2006.
The former G.D.P. route was on Northbound Broadway (ended here until 2000) from Cesar E. Chavez Avenue to Bernard Street and Southbound Hill Street at Ord Street took place here until 2006.
洛杉磯中國城華埠北百老滙街及奧德街
Quick tutorial on how to adjust an Argus C3 for electronic flash. As for the flash, you can modify the original stick flash to an electronic flash, add a hotshoe to the top, add a PC port somewhere for a flash bracket flash... many possibilities...
If I look sad, it's because I am. This is not the piercing I wanted. I wanted an industrial but I don't have the ear for it. Sigh.
Now it's time to set the potentiometer in its centered position permanently. Here I'm positioning it with a screwdriver. The procedure is just like before: connect the servo to a receiver and turn on the transmitter with the stick in a neutral position. Then turn the potentiometer until you find the spot where the motor stops spinning. Now we want to glue the knob in place.
Join ITS Tactical as Rob Robideau reviews the Preon P1 Flashlight and the clicky tailcap modification he had done.
Read the full write-up here on ITS Tactical: itstac.tc/OjO2fm
The Nintendo NAS contains the following hardware.
CV860A Motherboard with onboard Via Eden C3 at 800Mhz
512 Mb RAM
400Gb 3.5″ IDE Hard disk.
3 * 100MB Lan connections
The LEDs on the front panel indicate power, disk activity and LAN activity. The power button turns the NAS on (funny that!) The reset button is not connected.
I’ve not put a CDROM drive inside the unit that utilises the cartridge flap on the front. Ive mounted the hard drive behind it instead.
The plan was to install FreeNAS, but I’ve now decided to put Ubuntu server on instead. I can then put a full Apache/MySQL installation on it and publish its website to the internet. I will put a guest book system on it, so visitors can sigh the log. Keep an eye on nintendonas.retrocomputers.eu . I should have the site live by the new year.
Dont forget to checkout www.retrocomputers.eu for more info about my retro computer collection.
Slitcam modification of an Ilford Envoy camera as described by richard314159 here:
www.flickr.com/photos/richard314159/5867797552/
I simple slit, approximately 8mm wide has been made using black card, the film was advanced by 1/8th of a turn after each exposure, so at the beginning, when the take up spool was "slim" the slits overlap, while by the end of the film there is no overlap, or even a small gap.
Tomica Mitsubishi Evoltion VII finished modification, before and after (the date included was not the date I finished modifying the evolution).
Spaced out the guns on the top and added a mechanism to lower the grabbing arm.
Pull on the rod at the end and it will drop the grabbing arm thing.
Frame Modifications:
- QTY 1: New rear hose guide (zip-tie style) on bottom of NDS seat-stay.
- QTY 1: Add one barrel rear light mount halfway up NDS seat-stay
- QTY 3: Remove DT/CS hose guide braze-ons
Fork Modifications:
- Dynamo Wire management. QTY 4 External dynamo wiring guides up fork leg.
- Fix Tubus Duo Lowrider collisions with quick release skewer nuts and level out rack in the process. Tubus Duo Lowrider rack modification, remove tab. Remove QTY 4 rack eyelets around dropout, add QTY 2 barrel braze-ons up fork leg.
- Add QTY 2 fender eyelets halfway up fork leg away from rack and disc caliper.
Cyclefab Porteur Rack Modifications:
- Remove light mount, add permanent drop bracket with tapped hole.
- Dynamo wire guides up driveside rack stay. QTY 2