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Taken with a temporary film-plane modification of the Koroll 24 camera that I previously used in week 132 of my 52 film cameras in 52 weeks project:
www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/collections/72157623113584240
Strips of the coloured cellophane wrappers from "Quality Street" chocolates, loosely placed inside the camera. Agfa Vista ISO400 35mm film from Poundland, used without backing paper and processed in the Tetenal C41 kit..
BILL KAULITZ from Tokio Hotel
Custom Taeyang by Sheryl Designs
MODIFICATIONS:
Complette MakeUp
Replaced acrylic eyes
©2007-2010 Sheryl Designs Eyemech Modification
Piercing and Tattos
Complette Outfits by Sheryl Designs
Latest commission for Ms. UQQN Huntress. This is the Diamond Homes Blaire house with some structural modifications.
While Phantom specializes in bio-mechanical repair and modification, she isn't as skilled at normal mechanics. That's where Avak comes in. The Dark Hunter's main weapon-smith and tinkerer, he specializes in explosives, though can make more subtle weaponry on request.
With both X-ray and telescopic vision, he has a keen eye for detail. He is missing an arm and a leg due to a misfire incident, but enjoys tinkering with his handmade prosthetics.
A few quick modifications I made to the Exosuit.
The first change was to the arms. I hated that pnuematic T-joint prevented the arms from extending fully. The problem when removing that part was the arm would hyper extend backwards and did not seem right. So I replaced www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32013 with www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32016 and using a small axle, extended it with a bush. Now it fully extends and the arm stops completely flat. I also extended the reach of the arm with a technic bush right after the elbow joint.
While it does not necessarily need it, the Exosuit was lacking in firepower. In order to attach something from the back, I had to change the position of the ball joint www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=50923 . The part now extends to the side a little farther out, instead of up and down. The axle hole can be accessed easily now. Using nothing but technic parts, each shoulder has 4 mounted cannons that can move up and down and are independent of arm movement.
See www.flickr.com/photos/73759759@N02/14634752727/ for my Jetpack modification
I plan on doing many modifications, especially to the arms. I really dislike those barrels so I plan on making the forearms more like the upper arms, and also plan on giving it articulation in the wrist, adding small spotlights to the top, making the base of the feet wider for stability, attaching another hose to the arms like the way the existing one goes to the legs (saw the idea on Reddit) and likely a whole lot more.
In a effort to keep our garden beds nice and humid I added a partial layer of plastic to them. It only 2.7 mil thick and is still covered with our old bed sheets.
Lens mod: glue or fix a piece of black card or stiff paper with small hole for aperture on front and reverse of lens. Make sure it doesn't foul focusing mechanism.
For more information see my blog at cameramods.blogspot.com/2011/09/easy-swirly-mod-with-extr...
This is a pinhole camera, which I made out of a cheap 35mm Vivitar point-and-shoot camera, which you can easily find at your local thrift store/bargain basement for less than a couple of dollars.
Basically all I did with this camera is remove the lens and shutter mechanism (Which was fairly easy, because there was not very much to the mechanism). Then I took a small piece of tinfoil (with a pinhole, of course) and placed it right about where the lens was originally. The removal of both the lens and shutter assembly compromised the cameras “light-tightness”, so a liberal amount of electrical tape was used to help seal the camera, and make it light-tight again. I also used a thin strip of black construction paper with a small square cut in the center to act as a shutter.
The first time I ran a roll of film through it, it confused the poor guys at the photo lab. They did not know what to make of it, some of the pictures where over/under exposed, quite blurry, and there where uneven gaps between the frames on the negative. I have recently made a few adjustments, and everything seems to be working great
With this camera, I have found that on a nice bright sunny day, with 200 ISO film, a 1-2 second exposure is all you really need. I should get around to uploading some of those pictures soon!
Photoshop Contest
www.flickr.com/groups/photoshopcontest/discuss/7215759436...
Week 81 - Bremerhaven lighthouse ( raw image by djune )
For anyone who buys the InCase Origami cover/stand for the Apple BT keyboard and their iPad, they may find the preset screen angle a little steep in some situations. A three-inch strip of velcro, which stores away neatly in the cover when closed, is a home mod that offers a very wide range of angles. Brian Byrne/Kilcullen Diary.
Traction By The Theme Foundry Css customization at allaboutbasic.com/2017/09/21/traction-by-the-theme-foundr...
Matchbox Series No4 Dodge K Series Stake Bed Truck Restoration. 1966 to 1968 - 1-75 Series. This is the second Stake bed I am restoring. I bought it years ago at a swap meet. The body is stripped and ready for paint. The Citristrip does a great job and washes off. This is a good body to restore.
O/S locker and doors over compressor, nowhere to put anything on a PVS motor as when in use by PVS the space is required for slave wheels/tyres.
handhelditems.com held a sale on their Samsung Tab leather case with attached Bluetooth keyboard for a reasonable $30 using the coupon code "tabbluetooth." I predict you'll also find these sorts of cases on Amazon.com and other mobile retailers, as I've seen similar keyboards affixed to iPad cases.
Without modification, the Nook Color fits the case with some material overlapping the screen. In the first image, I have marked two areas with black ink that overlap when the Nook is oriented with the "n" button to the right side of the case. Also in the first picture, I made two cuts to the left and right spans of material that connect the upper and lower halves of the case frame together. These cuts are visible in the first picture. I found these cuts allowed me to move the frame further apart and eliminate the need to trim additional material. The halves do not need to be joined to securely hold the Nook Color in place.
I made a lot of modifications for this top. It is based on a free dress pattern from Burda, and I re-purpused the fabric from a top I no longer wanted to wear.
Blogged here: lafamillecreative.blogspot.fr/2012/05/top-la-danielle.html
HD027640 (AE AE 1921, 23) (with modifications; the tail of the Q of Baquatium is clearly visible):
[I(ovi)] O(ptimo) M(aximo) diis deabusque [immor]/talibus et Genio Imp(eratoris) Caes(aris) / [[M(arci) Aureli CASERNAV A[ug(usti)]]] / ob diutina(m) pace(m) serva[tam cum] / Iulio Nuffusi et nunc conlo/quio habito cum Iul(io) Mirzi / fratre eiiusdem(!) Nuffusis p(rincipis) g(entis) / Baquatium / Clement(ius) Val(erius) Marcellin[us] / v(ir) p(erfectissimus) p(raeses) p(rovinciae) M(auretaniae) T(ingitanae) confirmata pac[e ara]/m posuit et dedicavit Idibus Apri[li(bus)] / Messala et Grato co(n)s(ulibus)
A city of ancient Mauretania, a Carthaginian presence since the 3rd c. BCE, later the western capital of Juba II and then a Roman municipium; its stone later quarried for the construction of nearby Moulay Idriss and Meknes.
(Pleiades; Site de Volubilis; PECS (Perseus); en.Wikipedia).
I couldn't figure out why my 5x7 images were out of focus. So upon disassembly of the back I made some measurements. Turns out the ridge for the light trap on the old holders is a little further from the end. Approx .060 inch...So off to the Mill we go :-)
Investigating a traction fluid leak lead to the discovery of contamination by metal particles. Due to excess contact pressure between the steel end caps and the magnesium stator significant wear was occurring to the magnesium. In the photo I'm removing the end caps ready for replacement with bronze bushings.
Sensor in original position was reading approx 5 degrees higher than ambient. Re-positioning resulted in correct temperature readings.
Code available here - github.com/ibuildrockets/NixieTemperatureDisplay
I cut the strap off of the top of the apron and replaced it with a soft leather strap I cut. Then I sewed a vertical line in the top pocket so I can carry a pen or a screwdriver in it more easily. Since I was already screwing around, I put my name on it too. Round House sells these aprons for like 12 bucks and they're great for keeping stuff off of you when you're doing anything messy.
After DDA modifications - as shown by 1920 (W69PRG) which I returned to Stockton depot from Thornton's following modifications to DDA specification.
In this view you can see
- one tip up seat removed (left side of picture)
- wheelchair backrest is brought forward
- extra hand-rails across the windows
[https://www.flickr.com/photos/61391443@N02/24024322872/] shows the un-modified interior onboard 1915 which I returned to Stockton depot
Zoom numérique (375%), modification du contraste, recadrage et capture d'écran de la photo...
www.flickr.com/photos/sulitskiy/54118357506/in/datetaken/
Veules-les-Roses (8-9 mètres) → Phare de la Canche
= 91,43 km / 37°82