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Much of the detail was with the kit. Several changes were made to bring out the 'best' in the detail -such as adding extra sculpted pieces around the gallery windows.
At the stern, additional carvings are featured beneath the lantern; and on both sides of it, I added the shield-carrying lion and unicorn.
As requested, here are the main modifications I made for my 130pds in order to get it up to scratch for imaging with a full frame CCD camera.
1 (Left): A custom built M54-M48 focuser adaptor (screws straight on to drawtube). It also has tilt compensation and integrated coma corrector (Baader MPCC MkIII).
2 (Centre): How it all attaches to the focuser
3 (Right): The setup at work with 9x50 finderguider.
In a effort to keep our garden beds nice and humid I added a partial layer of plastic to them. It only 2.7 mil thick and is still covered with our old bed sheets.
the large hole along the side is the result of my first aborted attempt to put the logic board of a powerbook inside the plus case. originally, the ports from the laptop would have been accessed through the gap. you can see the power supply for the G4 and LCD, as well as the video cable snaking out (then back in) this gap.
Here is the actual "blueprint" that I used to plan of what I was going to do after I removed the mounting ring (it was a bayonet mount) and the aperture linkage stuff. The aperture stuff no longer worked as it had before once I removed the linkage stuff, so I had to get creative with what to do. Where it says "should be connected" in red, towards the bottom, I eventually created a little loop with a piece of paper clip and glued it to the outer metal piece and looped it over the inner one (which had to move up and down to focus properly). To boil it down: the plastic adjustment ring is attached to the metal ring which is attached to the aperture controls. The aperture ring doesn't click when I use it now, but it still does it's job. I needed some extra space between the lens and the camera body (it was actually too close) so I cut up some metal washers and glued those to the green highlighted areas, which were eventually glued to the actual mount. I'm sure that this is all relatively confusing, so if you have any questions or comments, I'd love to hear what you have to say! A full "how to" on this is in the description of this set.
Lens mod: glue a piece of black card or stiff paper with small hole for aperture on reverse of lens. Make sure it doesn't foul focusing mechanism.
For more information see my blog at cameramods.blogspot.com/2011/09/easy-swirly-mod-with-extr...
World’s first series-production, sixteen-cylinder car
Manufacturing period: 1930 – 1937 (various design modifications)
Units: 4387
Top speed: 145 km/h
Original price (1930): $ 5900.-- (Convertible Coupé)
e n g i n e
Cylinders: 16 (45 degree angle / V-configuration)
Displacement: 7413 cc
Rated output: 121 KW / 165 PS @ 3200 rpm
Operation: 4-stroke petrol engine with dual Cadillac carburettors (patent: C.F. Johnson)
Bore x stroke: 76.2 x 101.6 mm
Cooling system: Liquid cooled with pump
Engine block: Cast iron
Finished modification, complete with dodgy-looking red button!
I actually spent a good bit of time trying to get a combination of washers that looked good on the chrome plate
Welcome to Home Loan Modification (HLM) LLC, your preferred destination for loan modification. HLM LLC takes pride in its business, ethics, values, and customer focus, resulting from over 20 years of serving customers in related businesses. Home Loan Modification is family-owned and operated business that specialized in assisting community where there dream of homeownership. We help our clients in finding the most suitable loan they can afford. We guide our clients to find the right loan for their financial situation Home Loan Modification takes pride in understanding our client personal financial situation so that we could help them achieve the American dream of homeownership.
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ZARAK KHAN
Email: zarak.khan2009@gmail.com
Chris' BMW G20 M340i
APEX Wheels Forged VS-5RS in Satin Bronze
F/R: 19x9.5" ET25 with 265/35-19
Front 12mm spacer to clear Ohlins suspension
Modifications:
Ohlins R&T Coilovers
Alignment:
-3F & -2.2R camber
Seen across Walney Channel, Barrow-in-Furness, on 08/04/2020, while on my infrequent exercise walk during these strange times.
Built by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries Ltd., Kobe, Japan, in 1987, with a GTW 5271. Formerly known as Pacific Pintail, she underwent extensive refurbishment early in 2012 including modifications to broaden the capability of the vessel to cover a more extensive range of flasks and ISO containers. © Peter Steel 2020.
Another Matchbox Series No4 Dodge K Series Stake Bed Truck Modification. 1966 to 1968 - 1-75 Series. I didn't show it but the body has been painted a silver metallic that is actually a satin finish. I really wanted it gloss but I like this color for some reason. I used the color to restore my 65 Rambler dealer promo. My wife walked over with a box of the kids old 90's Matchbox and Hot Wheels cars that are pretty rough and she said maybe there are some good parts in here and there was this yellow truck box with all of the old cars. Kind of a silly side graphics but I was thinking maybe better than the stake bed.
Mass Production Prototype WR-01 (MPPWR-01)
Medium reFrame (unclassified modifications)
Effective range: Medium to short
Classification: Experimental assault unit
Armaments: In-built SA-X385 Quorus cannon
Hailing from the largest colony from the remains of the Australiasian region, this ReFrame is the prototype build of a mass production unit. Limited Quorus resources have led to engineers developing or leaving the crystals in an unstable state. Whilst yielding much more power, the instability of the crystals leave a need for a constant cooling of its generators. The experimental arm cannon channels excess Quorus energy to fire a fast-moving projectile of Quorus energy.
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Man this set up looks REAL cheap. Best for lighting was like, two lamps and the backdrops are two A3 pieces of paper >.<
Quite a basic build actually, not much spooky black magic construction mostly due to my collection of parts being based on sets I've bought or from my childhood so alot of the design is pretty simple but it came out pretty cool-looking.
A few quick modifications I made to the Exosuit.
The first change was to the arms. I hated that pnuematic T-joint prevented the arms from extending fully. The problem when removing that part was the arm would hyper extend backwards and did not seem right. So I replaced www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32013 with www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=32016 and using a small axle, extended it with a bush. Now it fully extends and the arm stops completely flat. I also extended the reach of the arm with a technic bush right after the elbow joint.
While it does not necessarily need it, the Exosuit was lacking in firepower. In order to attach something from the back, I had to change the position of the ball joint www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=50923 . The part now extends to the side a little farther out, instead of up and down. The axle hole can be accessed easily now. Using nothing but technic parts, each shoulder has 4 mounted cannons that can move up and down and are independent of arm movement.
See www.flickr.com/photos/73759759@N02/14634752727/ for my Jetpack modification
I plan on doing many modifications, especially to the arms. I really dislike those barrels so I plan on making the forearms more like the upper arms, and also plan on giving it articulation in the wrist, adding small spotlights to the top, making the base of the feet wider for stability, attaching another hose to the arms like the way the existing one goes to the legs (saw the idea on Reddit) and likely a whole lot more.
A section of straight chassis rail has been welded into place, replacing the sloping rear section that suited its previous tractor unit role.
Mercedes-Benz Actros 2658
Removed: DirecTV Tivo, Xbox (with Linux installed), home theater amplifier.
Leaving: US PS2, Japan PS2, Xbox 360, Airport Express, tube HD TV Sony KV-30HS510, on-board power strip.
Now this cabinet can be rolled from room to room, including facing the backyard. Outdoor wireless internet and game controllers!
When the cabinet is docked in the media room, I can plug the optical inputs from the PS2 and the Xbox 360 into the home theater stereo, sitting nearby. Gotta repair/solder the input jack on my old subwoofer.
The latest modification to this two tone Moulton APB was to change it from dual drive 24 to dual drive 27 using all new SRAM parts.
Apparently a CL77 battery was installed on the bike, which isn't a very big deal, just slightly taller than usual. Which means that the original (much thicker) piece of rubber insulation that's here keeps the bracket from clamping down and holding the battery in place. I took an old piece of tire tube, cut it to spec and glued it on with RTV sealant.
Problem solved.
A low-grade photo, I know, but about the best I could manage about two months ago, with the sun lower and behind the houses. It looks as though a number of modifications have taken place over the years. Most noticeable is that the owners on the left have added a garage ...or is it a "car port"... at the end and brought the ground floor rooms out to the building line. The other two houses retain their original garages and recessed entrances. It must be conceded that the garages, to judge by the size of the doors, look rather a waste of space. I would guess that the rooms left of the front doors in the other two houses are downstairs lavatories. The supply of light would be inadequate for full-size rooms.
At the rear the roof springs from what must be the ceiling level of the bedrooms. At the front it is carried down to their floor level. The skylights, left and middle, suggest loft conversions since the houses were built. Note that the skylights are of different patterns and there is none on the right. I wonder if it was intended that the cut-out bits in the roof were to be used as balconies. There are no railings on the right, which house seems to be the least altered, and those on the other two do not match. I can't quite make it out, but on Google Maps it looks as though the "cut-outs" are duplicated at the rear, but with the positions staggered ...that is to say that where there is a cut-out in front there is none at the back, and vice versa. Most odd.
The bubble level fitted to the now external, polar scope. Aligned the reticle on the horizontal mode and then adjusted level to the same position. Actually helps during setup leveling the mount in the horizontal plane.
At Lego shows in 2024, my Castle class would occasionally derail when there was a kink in the track, particularly when entering corners.
I put this down to the chassis setup I'd chosen, based on Carl Greatrix's previous Castle model, whereby the rear bogie wheels were fixed to the main chassis. In some cases, it seemed these wheels were getting raised off the track by the driving wheels behind.
I've now re-worked the chassis to have a more conventional pivoted bogie. There is still only 1 set of flanged drivers, to allow the bogie to not crash sideways into the cylinders. However now the bogie is on a single pivot, positioned above the rear bogie wheels.
This should help to 'steer' the loco into corners, and the little shoulder on the pin piece also helps to keep the weight on the bogie wheels.
It's always a delicate and not entirely reliable balancing act to use what this tool was before I added the cross-member that's resting on the vise covers. Bottle boss heads weren't always held square, housing stop alignment could shift and sometimes the stop would slide radially. The relatively heavy cross bar is a simple approach that anchors fixture alignment adequately and rectifies those sorts of problems. I'm very happy with it.