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O André é body piercer e um grande conhecer da área. Ele me recebeu em seu estúdio para umas fotos e entrevistas a sair na revista Babel, da ECA/USP.
We turned the mold over and screwed on some 2"x4"s with slots cut out to accommodate our clamping system.
A simple but nice modification to the Brickarms SW500.
All I did was file down the front a bit, and paint the handle, and out came a fairly nice .357 Magnum.
(I know some people have done a modification similar to this, but the made the Webley revolver by filing the entire front part away.)
Churches we see today are often modifications or replacements of older ones on the same site. This church however, is famous for what it became during the latter half of the 19th century.
Most buildings, including churches, were designed and built by people who chose a particular career in life. Such as architects and builders. Not so here and as a result, I doubt you'll ever see anything like it anywhere else! It just so happened that a Reverend John Parker M.A. arrived in Llanyblodwel in 1845 at a time when the south wall, the oldest part of the as then existing church, was deemed unsafe and beyond repair. He decided it should be rebuilt and that he should take charge of the design and building. He also thought the church needed more space and that he should design and build that too.
As well as being a man of God, he was also very talented and although as far as I know had no formal training in architecture, design or building, had bags of common sense, great artistic flair, an encyclopaedic knowledge of the Bible and good negotiating skills. He also learned very quickly. I was thinking of saying as much as I could about the Rev. John Parker in as few words as possible when I found this comment on the internet on something called “Tripadvisor”. As well as being succinct and very apt, this is in my opinion, one of the best comments ever posted on the internet. It was written by someone called “Nick I” (apparently there are at least 865 Nick I's)...
“In the hands of the Reverend of the time and over a fair extended period it was ‘stabilised’ and added to. But this was not in accordance with any particular architectural style or school, but instead down to what the Rev liked and thought wouldn’t fall over.”
Thus qualified and after repairing and making the south wall strong, he created a bigger church. Then, he decided to build a spire. He'd looked at several of the country's finest, including St Mary's in Shrewsbury and others in Lichfield, Caythorpe and Worcester. Having made his opinions known on those, he went on to design and build his own, to his own design and in his own way. The result is the magnificent structure we see today.
However, later generations didn't approve of his exuberant style or unique decoration and were horrified by what he'd created. So they obliterated his work with whitewash! With puritanical zeal they demolished his two decker pulpit and re-arranged the seating to a more 'devout' direction, to face the pulpit.
Thankfully, that's as far as these 'late Victorians' went and by the middle of the 20th century, attitudes had changed. His work was once again appreciated and in 1937 to 1945 (Rev. John Greenwood) and again in 1958 work was commenced to undo the late Victorian 'contribution'. By 1960 the whitewash had been carefully removed, restoration completed and the seating re-arranged to once again face the altar.
The church is situated in Shropshire on the road between Llynclys and Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant which is well known for its splendid waterfall. The village name “Llanyblodwel” means “Church of Blodwell” in Welsh. The name Blodwell originates from “Blaid-wal” or the old English name of “Blodwelle”, meaning “blood spring or stream.” The name “Church among the Flowers” has also been suggested. The river Tanat passes close to the church.
The church today is active and services are held regularly, along with special events. For more information, please see.....
www.achurchnearyou.com/church/4558/
and....
As you can see, it was missing one of the washer-type things, meaning that the machine head for the 4th string moved about way too much.
I guess I forgot to post this but this was taken while I was working on it. I took my kenko extension tubes which are designed to pass the signal through to the lens and I drilled 1/16th holes at 90 degrees to each of the 8 pins on two of the rings (little bit tricky). I drilled a hole in the side of the tube to feed some wires through and soldered the wires to connect the two tubes so that they can be physically seperated but still electrically connected. I added a DB9 connector in the middle for good measure after this pic was taken and cleaned things up a bit.
The idea is that one tube goes right on the camera body and the other one goes on my reversed lens so as far as the camera is concerned, the reversed lens is still connected, TTL, EXIF, Aperture...it's all there baby!
New skeg control box. Much neater and a bit wider. All is good now :-)
Full details: gnarlydognews.blogspot.com/2009/02/shop-kayak-mods-fabric...
Here are the lain out parts of the U-joint assembly for gimbal. You will end up cutting the plastic pieces down to final size and also shaving them a bit to make the one going through the skate wheel fit snugly.
This is a diamante micro-dermal piercing done by Jane at Punktured in Brighton. If it heals ok (I got it 22/04) I'd like to get 5 in a row across the arm.
Temporary film-plane modification of the Koroll 24 camera that I previously used in week 132 of my 52 film cameras in 52 weeks project:
www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/collections/72157623113584240
I liberally applied sellotape in overlapping criss-cross strips at the film plane.
As the name suggests, this model manages to squeeze 24 exposures out of a roll of 120 film, by using a mask to make the image size 3cm x 4cm. The edges of the film are wasted, but by using the "12 frame" backing paper markings twice, 24 exposures are made.
I removed the mask, so the full width of the film is exposed, and the frames overlap, but if a full frame is desired, the film can simply be advanced twice.
The film was expired Fujichrome Provia ISO400 slide film, which I cross processed in Tetenal C41 chemistry.
Control knob (slider) for the skeg.
A solid rod of clear polycarbonate was used to shape the knob.
The bolt is used to pinch the skeg cable.
Medusa boss design. I worked this up from an old Greek amphora showing Perseus carrying a shield with the head of Medusa blazoned on it. I like the symbolism of Medusa-- a being so striking ugly that one look at her stopped men in their tracks. There's something to be said for that kind of power.
Executed by Greg Kidd of Sal's Tattoo and Barber Shop in Toronto.
This took the least amount of time and was actually complete in about an hour or so. It is simple stenciling.
I made some markings on the backside of the front standard, so I can find the Zero marking (gold line) and the 1cm, 2cm & 3cm marks (silver dots)
This way I can see from behind the camera, and not have to walk around to the front to see these marks. :-)
Part # 5151 is the best u-joint by Traxxas, as it has rounded shoulders to the joints and also is a bit larger for strength.
Instructions available from Rebrickable at: rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-183741/Rubblemaker/tie-silencer-...
Arguably, the greatest thing to come out of the Star Wars sequels was the Tie Silencer. A stunning, sleek take on the Tie Interceptor that had way too little screen time. Set 75179, ‘Kylo Ren’s TIE Fighter’, was my entry point into this hobby and I’ve kept hold of it all this time. It’s a great set, but I wanted to turn this playset into a display set. So here it is. A complete overhaul and extensive modification of set 75179.
It keeps much of the interior structure from the set but has an entirely new exterior design with numerous details added and lines re-made based on screenshots and highly detailed 3d models (you’re looking at a lot more than just the original set with some tiles stuck on top) It also features completely re-designed wings using new construction methods.
I re-designed the underside and part of the internal structure (with no loss of structural integrity) to incorporate a cavity for the stand to slot into. A modified version of the UCS Batwing stand worked perfectly for this ship. The instructions have also been completely re-designed from scratch.
The ship now weighs in at 1324 pieces, including the stand (the original set is made up of just 630 pieces) 52% of the parts from the original set are used in my modification so if you own the set you would need an extra 1012 pieces to create this mod, plus it’s stand. (Currently those parts can be purchased from Bricklink for about £60).
僕はたまに海の夢を見ます。でもその海は砂浜のビーチでも、漁港でもありません。何故か埠頭なんです。夢の中の僕は、どこか不安な気持ちを抱きながら独り埠頭に立っているのです。
もしかするとこれは夢なのではないかと自分に問いかけながら僕はシャッターを切り続けました・・・・。
This was an inexpensive kit, but I am generally happy with the details. I did make some minor modifications using plasticard, the most significant being the addition of the toolbox to the back end. I primed it using Vallejo Surface Primer "Dunkelgelb", which had an almost identical appearance to Vallejo Model Color "Dark Yellow". I thought this was too dark, so I lightened it up using Vallejo "Buff". I used Vallejo "Mahogany Brown" for the camouflage, but I sprayed it very lightly. Once all the details were complete, I gave it a quick pin wash using Citadel black wash. It was this part that I was least happy with. No matter, since I started the weathering using Tamiya "Buff" thinned to about a 10% solution - a technique which has worked very well in the past. I also used vallejo pigments in the final weathering. I was generally happy with the overall results, but there are a few things which I've learned that I would probably do different next time.
The old chassis setup, with the rear bogie wheels fixed to the frames, and the front 'bogie' wheels acting like a pony truck, including a rubber belt to spring it onto the track.
At Lego shows in 2024, my Castle class would occasionally derail when there was a kink in the track, particularly when entering corners.
I put this down to the chassis setup I'd chosen, based on Carl Greatrix's previous Castle model, whereby the rear bogie wheels were fixed to the main chassis. In some cases, it seemed these wheels were getting raised off the track by the driving wheels behind.
I've now re-worked the chassis to have a more conventional pivoted bogie. There is still only 1 set of flanged drivers, to allow the bogie to not crash sideways into the cylinders. However now the bogie is on a single pivot, positioned above the rear bogie wheels.
This should help to 'steer' the loco into corners, and the little shoulder on the pin piece also helps to keep the weight on the bogie wheels.