This Bedford YLQ in Malta has a subtle alteration to it's bodywork. The clue is in the window behind the driver which has been extended down to meet the waistrail. Otherwise this ex Whittle coach (once RAW44R) looks a very tidy example of a coach once common on the streets of Britain

With the piercing artist.

by giving a hinge and the slopey window piece, and moving the piece that was there in the set inside a stud, you have a working boot, and the suitcase fits in there, not slipping around, almost as if it was made for this mod.

I prefer the shorter Crocodile engine but I like the stock set features and simplistic look.

Slider

Kyle found this frame in a dumpster some years ago and I am finally making it ride-ready (and a little smaller).

For Melody

After a little quality time with the dremel tool, the part of the pot that engaged the output gear is gone.

Modified cactus trigger

Vivitar 285hv camera right shot thru brolly

I've added an output gear to the shaft. The gear simply slips on the shaft. The tension on the nut ensures that the gear rotates with the shaft.

Image taken 20.01.2019 by David Moth

This is a mostly completed tattoo done by an artist named Kenny.

Tropenmuseum, Amsterdam, Netherlands, 2017

Modifying the light to accommodate the misting tube

modification ears (lobes removed transitions glued), made make-up.

After a replacement Heath/Zenith 5411-A motion sensor failed the same way (bad design) the first one did in a porch light (would only turn on in test mode), I decided to use a Regent motion sensor instead. This involved making an adapter between the Regent box and the Heath ball-and-socket swivel, which fits in a standard hole in an exterior electrical box (good design).

I needed to use the putty knife to get past all the plastic snap-tabs on the Regent unit (bad design).

1. I make bigger aperture hole ~7mm for poor light shots.

2. I move range stopper, so now Holga can make shots from ~55 cm.

Temporary film-plane modification of the Koroll 24 camera that I previously used in week 132 of my 52 film cameras in 52 weeks project:

52cameras.blogspot.com/

www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/collections/72157623113584240

I liberally applied sellotape in overlapping criss-cross strips at the film plane.

As the name suggests, this model manages to squeeze 24 exposures out of a roll of 120 film, by using a mask to make the image size 3cm x 4cm. The edges of the film are wasted, but by using the "12 frame" backing paper markings twice, 24 exposures are made.

I removed the mask, so the full width of the film is exposed, and the frames overlap, but if a full frame is desired, the film can simply be advanced twice.

The film was expired Fujichrome Provia ISO400 slide film, which I cross processed in Tetenal C41 chemistry.

If I look sad, it's because I am. This is not the piercing I wanted. I wanted an industrial but I don't have the ear for it. Sigh.

Got my EOS 7D back from Canon a few days ago, and as requested they installed a locking mode dial for me.

I have a very bad habit of nudging this dial and not realizing it until after I've completely missed a handful of shots. It happened during my latest WDW trip, and left me scratching my head for a bit trying to figure out why my camera was going crazy. While the mode dial is probably the first place I should check, it's usually the last which just means lost time in addition to the lost shots.

Well, in the immortal words of S.I.R. I shall, "Wonder no more!" what mode I am shooting in as the locking mode dial will keep me firmly rooted.

The modification (parts & labor) ran around $100. I don't have an exact number however as I sent my (out of warranty) camera in for a few other issues along with the mode-dial installation.

Unfortunately, one of those issues (out of whack electronic level) wasn't resolved so I'm shipping my 7D back to Canon repair again today.

That means another week without my camera... Sigh...

I posted a quick video of the mode dial in action if you want to see how it operates. It's 20 riveting seconds of video, see for yourself www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3MDPH_wggQ

In other news, I've been working on a really exciting Disney project right now. Can't wait to unveil it to everyone soon. So very psyched to watch it all come together :) Stay tuned.

Have a stupendous day!

-Alan

ps - I picked up a hot-shot bubble level just to make sure I wasn't crazy, and that the electronic level is actually off. I'm happy to report, I am not crazy and the 7D's level is about 8 - 10 degrees off. Thanks again to Ryan for ruining my day and pointing this out.

In order to get the proper truck spacing using the Bachmann frame a bit of tweaking was necessary.

Adding a #4 machine screw to the output gear is a good idea if the load on the servo could strip the plastic threads of the output gear.

To put this screw in place I had to drill out the output gear twice. First I drilled right through to allow the screw to fit. Then I drilled the bottom a bit wider to accomodate the screw head. Be careful not to drill farther than necessary with this latter operation.

There's really nothing holding the screw in place at this point but it doesn't slip easily either.

Not only did I trim the knob flush with the collar, I cut a little slot across both the collar and knob. This is to help the epoxy lock the pot's shaft in place. Ideally this slot make a straight line when the pot is in the centered position. That's why we made the effort to line it up before trimming it.

I used a dremel rotary tool with a cutting wheel to trim off the knob then make this slot.

[Actually using superglue instead of epoxy is recommended on these plastic parts. And the slot is pretty much unnecessary in that case.]

Oh boy...

Fairy-2 Decembers ago, done by doctor

Purple 10G. Plug- peirced by a friend in bathroom. Went from 18G to 10 with whatever unlabled crap i found at Pericing Pagoda.

Black Studs-Self Peired at different times.

Amy took this herself but I loved the picture so much I had to put it up.

She's trying to stretch her ears a bit. Her skin is so clean!

This works well on the 1651 or 1951 u-joints, but the 5151 does not even need them to be snapped together. The 5151 part is better, as it is stronger and has rounded edges for better free mobility or movement.

I was about to throw out this ~1950s vibrating “sex toy” of a DE Razor. However, commented that I should use the head on another handle because it gives an excellent shave. I’d try it right now, except my skin is as smooth as an Asian baby’s bottom from a triple-pass shave this morning. I shall try the head on my birch bark handle when I wake up at 10:00 a.m. on the morrow.

With the last name “Wolf” it indicates he’s a lycanthrope or at least has werewolf blood in his genetics. Someone with the last name “Wolf” might tell you that werewolfs are mythical creatures, but anyone who DE shaves knows better. If you hear a wolf howl while you’re shaving and have cut yourself. Stop wet shaving and get the family silver. Gold don’t work on a werewolf.

The basic gimbal unit.

Spaced out the guns on the top and added a mechanism to lower the grabbing arm.

Pull on the rod at the end and it will drop the grabbing arm thing.

The case opens when four long screws are removed via the bottom. The gears are greased and we would like to keep them that way throughout the procedure. At this point we get our first view of some key elements: the feedback potentiometer and the mechanical stop on the output gear.