View allAll Photos Tagged strobe
So I'm still struggling with the age old dilemma... Quantum trio, Elinchrom RX, or speedlights.
Anyhow, long story short I was invited to see the difference between continuous and strobe and bumped into Mimi here. The nub of it, is that strobes are way better than continuous without a doubt, but are proportionately expensiver.
I'm booked on a training course later in March to run though the strobey basics, so I'll probably decide then.
Strobist info: big light camera right with a splatter dish... erm... did I mention I was going on a course :)
I didn't expect to be shot by David Hobby today in fairness, but was totally stoked to be part of one of the demo shots in todays Strobist seminar. It took him all of about 5-6 minutes to set up and explain the shot you can see here, using no less than 6 individual flashes. (I won't be re-creating this one at home any time soon!)
Had to share this one... Alley ways were so tiny (3 people wide), it took 9 attempts to get this right but when I did, wow... it floored me. Must see large!
Strobist info:
Nikon sb24@1/32 arms length up left behind couple for rim, 430exII @ 1/4(?) held at my arms length high left. Triggered via PW FlexTT5's. both strobes bare.
This is a picture I took of my Sister in Law and my little niece just before they gave birth to their second child. I was experimenting and playing around with some strobes.
Here I ues one flash right of camera, one left of camera and one laying by the door. Don't know why, but I though it looked cool :P
My SB-28 was lonely, so I got this litle 'guy'. here: YONGNUO YN460
Strobist info: SB-28 @ 1/16 in a small softbox camera right. White reflector camera left.
The high-end flash (HVL-56AM) has a strobe function meaning it can fire multiple flashes during one exposure.
I set it up to flash with a frequence of 30 hertz, so 30 flashes per second and to stop after 10 flashes.
This makes the total flash period 10/30 = 1/3 second. I set the shutterspeed of the camera to the same value.
I made several objects fall from a hight of about 2,5 meters.
Shots are best taken in a darkish environment so the flash is the only light source on the falling object.
Because the flash fires 10 times in theory you can get the object 10 times in the same frame. But then you have to get everything right:
1. Precise release moment.
2. Allowing time for the object to drop into the frame.
3. Have the object drop more or less straight down.
4. Finish the exposure before the object hits the ground or falls out of the frame.
I managed about 5 exposures.
In order to drop the object synched with the start of the exposure I used a remote control (wired) in combination with a timer delayed exposure. My timer delay (2 secs) gives 6 beeps before the exposure starts. Depending on the air-resistance of the object I let go on the 5th or 6th beep. It takes some practising but you´ll get the hang of it soon.
Camera settings full manual ofcourse.
Manual focus your camera first by holding the object still in the falling trajectory. AF is fast these days, but not that fast.
Exposure should be fully manual to. Shutterspeed is calculated from the flash frequency and number of flashes, it must not be shorter.
The amount of light is determined by the flash. I set mine to flash at 1/32 of maximum power. Times ten for a single exposure makes 10/32 = 1/3 of maximum output.
With this being predetermined you only have your aperature to control the exposure (ISO fixed at 100). Set it by trial and error.
Not perfect yet but it's fun trying.
Imaginative names, I know! Done for the first assignment of January, 2012 in the Advanced Digital Class: Experimenting with Light. This is the Strobe part of the assignment.
Strudel also has a Facebook page! Go love him! www.facebook.com/pages/Strudel-the-Dachshund/328843200467718
It started raining on Sunday, finally. The dust is down, but it keeps us (somewhat) grounded. I mean, it wasn't heavy rain, just enough to be annoying. So I setup an impromptu mini-studio in our kitchen.
View it large - it's better!.
Strobist: flash to camera left, at 1/128th. ISO 400, 1/100 at f/16. Nikon 105mm lens, with a poor-man's reflector (piece o' shiny paper from the kid's sticker book) to the right.
just trying out some different stuff with my strobes. of course it started to rain as soon as we got to the field. sometimes i hate mother nature but i always hate the weather man because he stinks at his job.
Continuing offCam strobe practise around the home.
SB28 hand held straight up 1/1
Sb600 on floor other side of bed 1/16 (?)
Had to remove shadows from beams and above uplight on wall.
Self-portrait full strobe...
strobist : 2 barebulbs each side from back through white umbrella, 1 KF36 up-front in an homemade softbox, white reflector in my hands.
My facebook page : www.facebook.com/pages/Buissonland-Photographe
Self portait inspired by the great Jill Greenberg.
These shots represent my first try at this technique.
Strobist:
Vivitar 285, 1/16 power, bounced off a sheet of paper to the rear.
I'm interested to see what advantage I can gain from using an additional strobe.
f22; 1/160; 18-100mm@18mm; ISO 200; +/- 0
Aperture Priority
strobist: SB600 to camera left; commander
post:up-contrast and gamma vignette in Aperture 2.0
Playing with the speedlight (handheld) approaching sunset. Need to hold the light on the opposite side next time, I think, to throw the flash back across her front. 39 weeks pregnant, you couldn't ask for a more flexible model.
My friend Jazib and I during an experimental shoot at night
Canon 500D
Canon 18-55 mm @ 18 mm
YN560-II @ 1/4 (Camera right/Umbrella cover)
5 seconds Exposure at f3.5
By Patrick Raimondi-Taylor, Year 13 (A2 Photography)
Created using a powerful strobe light on a long exposure