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This is a lighting setup for "137:365 - Tea time 2".
A tea pot full of freshly brewed tea was placed on a glass book shelf suspended above a black foam board.
A gray seamless paper is placed behind for the backdrop and it is illuminated with an SB-26 flash at 1/4 power through a grid spot. I also created a long snoot for it from Rosco cinefoil (black aluminum foil). Then I placed three thin strips of gels on the grid - yellow in the middle, red on one side and orange on the other.
Now that the background is taken care of, I placed three white foam board sheets, one above and two to the sides behind the tea pot. I put three flashes into each of them at low power (about 1/16 and 1/32 power) and used more cinefoil to control the light spill onto the background.
Setup for test shots of band members. Actual power settings were a bit different than what the notes say. Set up for www.flickr.com/photos/martinwilmsen/5549936240/
Those among you who follow my posting of Pluto Valve control blocks will soon realise this is again another setup and might also think that I am a weirdo to keep testing new arrangements of the necessary components. Unfortunately, that has been indeed true and the reason for changing has always been the lack of rigidity of the block carrying Pluto trigger and its valves due to the quality of the roller heads I used and of some of the remaining components. Also, I have been trying to minimise the size and number of total components used, while maintaining and also improving the block functionality, ease of operation, and its global stiffness. The current block is built around, in this last version, a camera rig I once used to operate a video serving GH4, but not anymore... There are still a number of areas where the current block can be further improved, but for the time being this is my most rigid and most accommodating configuration ever. I also ordered a Keiser RS1 (5510) system with an RA1 mount head as my currently use Falcon-eyes is not too rigid either.
My macro setup for the coffee bean pictures.
The main feature is the light diffuser, a milk jug. Under that I have various objects to raise the height of the subject by varying amounts. I need to stick the light meter in there beforehand to get a reading.
Lens is Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro (non Image Stabilization). The hood on it here. I have a Tamron 1.4x converter on it on this shot but didn't need it for the four beans. Not as sharp as lens by itself.
Stupid broken tripod is used. It's great but broken in three places and I can't afford another one. I have another broken tripod too.
Primary Canon flash at about 10 o'clock trying to point down. I found I needed to make this light source a little bigger/softer so I used the Lumniquest diffuser at the far left. Quantaray slave flash is at half power of the main straight across at 3 o'clock.
Setup shot for this photo - www.flickr.com/photos/balakov/11911316544/
Kitchen blowtorch and various aerosols. Don't try this at home unless your home is fireproof!
1 canon 430ex II below the bottle, shooting into the white background and using white bounce cards to light the front
this was a quick set up to show how to reflect light, I wish I would have spent more time now after looking at the shot! or at least got a better bottle!
See the shot here:
Setup shot for the cover of Poker Player, May 2009. Notes should explain everything.
Blog: www.photosmudger.com/
Setup shot for snowflake photos.
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4300472592/
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4300119765/
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4300119329/
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4300119099/
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4300865648/
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4299927289/
Nikon D2H + Micro-Nikkor 55mm/2.8 + bellows unit + extension rings
Setup shot for this photo.
Stand as the Improvised tripod, used at max height.
I screw Manfrotto Stud into camera's tripod socket, then put this to Photoflex Swivel Mount, and put this to a usual stand.
Camera was directed top-down, and triggered by cheap ebay radiotrigger by brand Phottix. Works flawless.
You can see SB-800 and SB-80DX. SB-800 was triggered by SU-800, and powered up with Battery block SD-8a, so even 1/2 power is not a problem, and flashes was recycled quickly.
SB-80DX was triggered optically by another flashes, not by SU-800. Its tricky, but it works, if SB-80DX did NOT see IR signal from SU-800.
And you can see nearby my lovely Lowepro Vertex 300 AW (it can hold all my flashes, camera body, up to 6 lenses, and more room for funny things), and Hakuba Tripod Bag working as counterweight, which holds up to 3-4 stands, umbrellas, spring clamps, battery blocks, etc etc etc - really great bag, and very unexpensive.
Maybe I should have titled this, overkill on the lighting, the subject is just one little leaf after all :)
In reality, the lights are there for the background really and the setup shot here, doesnt really show the light on the subject itself.
So starting with the backdrop:
In plain sight, a pair of Neewer SF-01 mini slave flashes, mounted on little tripods. The one on the left set to slave mode and the one on the right has a Blazzeo SLT-4 radio trigger.
Hiding below the glass shelf, is a Yongnuo YN-460 at 1/2 power, fitted with a difusser cap and set to slave mode. All 3 are there just to illuminate the background which creates the reflection on the glass surface.
Lighting the leaf itself, is a Meike FC100 ring flash, mounted on the cameras lens and also triggered by another Blazzeo SLT-4 radio trigger. Due to having pulled back to take this setup shot, the short range of the ringflash is hardly registering in this photo.
The video light to the left, is used as a focussing aidand though turned on in this shot, is not powerful enough to show compared with the flashes.
One final item, a white sheet of foamcore was held above, to bounce a little more light back into the scene.
EDIT : One final thing that I should have mentioned. Anybody familiar with ringflashes may be wondering about how the sender unit was mounted, as the cameras hotshoe contained the transmitter for the radio triggers. Well it wasnt pretty, LOL. A spring mounted clamp was attached to the leg of the cameras tripod, on which was mounted a coldshoe into which the radio trigger and sender were placed. Messy, but it worked :)
This is my mother-in-laws vintage, silver hand mirror. I've always liked the aesthetics of it so I'm glad I finally shot it.
Einstein 640 w/ 10" x 36" Stripbox left
Einstein 640 w/ 10" x 36" Stripbox right
Triggered w/ CyberSync
The setup shots had an additional Einstein 640 pointed at the ceiling to add some fill light. The mirror was raised using empty 120mm film rolls.
Latest version of a setup last used nearly 2 years ago, is it really that long ?
At the core of the setup is a plastic fishtank, raised about 6 inches/150mm above the table, flanked each side with difussion panels made of cardboard trays, with a cutout covered in plastic document wallets containing tracing paper.
Outside these, a pair of Neewer SF-01 Mini slave flashes, on radio triggers and mini tripods.
At the rear, a Yongnuo 460 on its stand, pointed toward a white card backdrop and triggered by it's optical sensor.
The 2 side flashes were fitted with colour filters (Gels also work) in this shot red and blue, but I do vary them.
Guess I had better mention the air supply. That was me blowing through the tube, LOL, but being a bit more serious, the airline goes into the tank at the right, held in place by a clamp.
Once in the tank it goes to a right angle union, then into an old glass pill bottle lying on the base of the tank. You might also note the lead fishing weights that are placed next to the bottle, these are just there to stop it moving around when air is blown into it.
The reason for the bottle is to allow a reservoir of air to build up, then when the bubbles break free, they are bigger than if just coming from the tube.
Makes a lot of mess and before I do any more of these, must find a drip tray to put under the tank to contain the spills. Note the sponge cloth at the far right which got a lot of use in this session.
All good fun, who doesnt enjoy making a mess :~)
One of the finished shots in the first comment below :
Lighting Setup for Patricia´s photo.
As you can see there's only one light and the trick here is that is going for a double function: it serves both as main and background light.
How? it is easy! I'm using a silver parabolic umbrella (1.8meter no diffuser) depending on how you "focus" the light (moving into or out of the umbrella the light source) you can put more light in the center of the umbrella and less in the borders of it, thus if you work it so the exposure on the border with the subject close to it and the light reaching the background far away is kinda the same you can get this result ;).
Sorry I can't remember the camera settings, must have been 1/200th ISO 100 f/7.1 or 11
Overview of the portable unit for flying insects photography, left side.
How to take insects in flight see:
Setup shot for Jarka 01
Strobist info:
Two strobes in 45'' silver reflector umbrellas at each side of the model.
Each strobe is a 580EX II fired at full power, triggered with pocket wizards, at 28mm zoom setting
Setup for this photograph (opens new Flickr window).
Simple, ain't it? ;-)
Bowens GM500 monolight in small softbox, fired by I.R. trigger.
Update 3 july 2014:
For the current version see: www.flickr.com/photos/fotoopa_hs/12537231674
There is also an 3D version inuse see: www.flickr.com/photos/fotoopa_hs/6760414583
Setup for insects in flight. This setup take pictures of insects inflight. An optical extra lens system is added to look for insects in focus. Only 40 usec are needed to check if there are objects in focus.
This unit works on reflected laserlight. No more leaserbeams are needed, no more long arms to put the receivers on the top of the system. The full distance is now free between camera and insects. The unit works in full dark or even in full bright sun. Sensivity can by adjusted by mean of a simple potmeter. To work in full dark 2 to 4 extra high power leds are added. 2 of this high power leds are UV leds at 405nm. This UV light attrack some insects inflight.
Today the first real live tests are done. This works realy nice. At this time no insects are available considering the winter periode here. Focus distance can by adjusted to every value. The focus range of the detector is very narrow. 1 to 2 mm at a distance of 700 mm form the camera. Objects of 2 mm diameter can by easily detected. Detector works also on full black insects. 4 lasers are used, 2 IR 5 mw lasers at 850 nm and 2 x 10 mw green lasers. The green lasers are only for visual position to the insects.
All electronics are mounted into the frame. One CPLD board is used and 2 boards with an AVR controller. The information from the optical system are fast transmitted from the AVR controller to the CPLD board. An 2x16 character LCD display give the status from the system. value of the batterys, value of the high voltage for the electro magnet at 150V, sensivity of the focus detector, width of the digital filter used, value of the environment light, value of the laser return light and expired time between start camera and moment of the picture.
The latest dSLR setup for capturing slides.
I've removed the idea of tubes althogether. I found that it offers no real benefits if you can control your lighting in your room that you're capturing to avoid stray reflections, however the illumination from below usually overpowers any reflections from ambiant sources.
The table is made from an old scanner glass. This is ideal as I can set the film flat. The glass rests freely on two hard plastic containers to lift it away from my lightsource (iPad 3rd Generation running the Flashlight app). To avoid film curl, I simply used a cokin square hood to hold the film down.
This system now allows me to capture cut film efficiently and also cleanly.
Depending on the height of the camera, I can capture different resolutions. At the 431.5mm mark (from film plane to sensor plane) I'm using it for a full single frame capture that creates a 12 MP image. At 351mm I can capture a 2 frame image for a 30MP capture, and at the 305mm I can capture a 6 frame image for 77MP capture.
I didn't do a 4 frame one which I suspect will be around 40-50MP.