View allAll Photos Tagged setup
Cinematic toy photography, captured with a 2x anamorphic lens combined with a 100mm macro prime, for a dual focus setup.
Christmas was good for Swet. I wanted to do a quick shot to showcase the photog booty. Since the CyberSyncs are made by the same people as Alien Bees, I wanted to give it a little creepy alien feel. So I went with an abstract green background.
Strobist: One SB-600 bounced into white foamcore at 1/16 to left of CyberSyncs. A white v-card to right of subject for fill. Another SB-600 camera left, gelled green and shot through a plastic laundry basket at 1/4 for background. CyberSyncs are sitting on a piece of acrylic on top of a piece of black foamcore.
Final image can be found here: www.flickr.com/photos/23145928@N06/3176929185/
It's been a while since I've posted a setup photo, so I decided to post this one after RBCustoms and BrickThinker requested it. I set up the Wargs and orcs, and positioned construction paper below them for the reddish reflection of the fire. Then, I added the embers and glow effects in Photoshop, as well as a few minor color adjustments. The finished photo can be found here!
Hope you enjoyed this behind-the-scenes look! I hope to post more of these in the future!
Today's setup... Roll the mouse over the photo to see equipment description.
See also the old setup.
Closer flash means less power needed.
Less power means shorter duration, critical on high-speed shots.
This setup has a new loudspeaker, powered by an amplifier I assembled myself.
Still an analog sound trigger, I'm working on a digital one.
- - -
Setup de hoje... Passe com o mouse na foto para ver a descrição do equipamento.
Veja também o setup antigo.
Flash mais próximo significa menos potência necessária.
Menos potência significa menor duração de flash, crítico em fotos high-speed.
Esse setup tem um novo alto-falante, com um amplificador que eu mesmo montei.
Ainda usa um sound trigger analógico, estou trabalhando em um digital.
Another workshop participant gets ready to shoot this setup at Carriage House.
We were using two 500W Hensel strobes at equal strength at approximately 45° angles.
THIS IMAGE IS PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT. REPRODUCTION AND REDISTRIBUTION IS PROHIBITED WITHOUT THE EXPRESS WRITTEN CONSENT OF THE PHOTOGRAPHER. Inquiries to permissions may be made to this photographer through Flickr mail at this photo stream account.
setup for previous pic, Alden Cosmetics.
R Matte foam board (Home Depot) : Found out background lights bounced off its silver surface nicely and created a good fill below chin and also on dress ;)
Setup shot for the portraits of Mike Causer, notes should explain everything.
Blog: www.photosmudger.com
Twitter: @photosmudger
Setup for the splash shots:
- A little fish tank in the middle (I got that cheap from Amazon)
- two flashes on the right and left side, shooting through paper pieces as diffusors
- two flashes placed in my bathtub shooting from underneath through the translum foil
- translum foil formed as some sort of transparent seamless background under the tank
Three flashes from Yongnuo, one Canon 430, all four RF triggered via Yongnuo RF triggers.
Camera on tripod with cable remote, adjustments cmp. EXIF.
Btw.: No light barrier involved, obviously this also works manually with some patience. :-)
Current MPE-65 setup. Canon 5dMk2 and MPE-65 lens. Yongnuo YN24Ex flash with modified set up using two gorillapod arms fixed to the MPE-65 tripod bracket. DIY diffusers on flash head. 1 layer 1stop silk and 1 lay .5 stop diffuser gel separated by about 1cm
This is the setup for the "Into The Heart Of The Rose" image I posted earlier.
I put a Yongnuo RF-603N trigger on my D90 and a YN560-II that I pointed at the ceiling to create the setup shot. When I took this picture it triggered the flash in the softbox. Down below in comments you can see the picture that this setup created.
People seem to find these setup shots helpful, and I have an album of them if you'd like to check them out.
Complete 4x5 setup:
- Tachihara 4x5
- 4x5 BTZS focusing cloth (very good)
- Fujinon CMW 125/5.6 (image circle 204 mm @ f/22)
- 2x FIdelity Elite film holders
- 3x NEW Toyo 4x5 film holders
- 6 filters
- Cokin P filter system + 121M filter
- cable release 2x
- Ilford FP4+ 4x5 FIlm unopened box of 25 sheets (Exp. 12/2014)
Setup shot for a few of the images from this shoot.
ab800 into 47" octabox
fired with pocketwizards
vagabond II
mijn huidige setup, ga met je muis over de foto voor omschrijvingen.
Update: zie ook de setup uit 2006 :D
This is the setup I used to take my smoke photos. It consists of a Canon Digital Rebel with a 18-200mm Sigma lens connected to my laptop running Canon's remote-shooting software. I triggered the shutter using a remote switch. The background is a yard of black velvet. I attached two "gobos" (pieces of cardboard) to my off-camera strobe (flash) using velcro. The gobos prevented light from the strobe from flaring into the lense or onto the background.
Here's what I do in post:
* I use a black brush to to insure the areas outside of the smoke are completely black (that's about all the burning I do).
* I use the healing tool to remove any distracting specs of dust within the smoke.
* I either apply color to the smoke (using a gradient layer for example), or color shift and saturate the existing colors. For example, I used the "color shift and saturate" technique in this image. I tend to prefer working with the existing tones over mapping colors onto the smoke. I think the resulting colors are more subtle and tend to blend in a more natural way.
* Sometimes I sharpen the image (add local contrast) a small amount using an unsharp mask, but sharping, and color saturation for that matter, increases the image's noise. Smoke images already look noisy because they're images of small particles of smoke, so you've got to go easy on the image manipulation. Sometimes blurring the smoke is actually the right choice.
* Sometimes I'll also play with the image's color curves.
Light setup for this image: www.flickr.com/photos/terytky/3057445743/
Photo by: Seppo Hinkula
Just an off the cuff setup to try and snap some water drops.
My 18-135 just doesn't seem long enough for things like this. ;)
The string made it easy to get the drops in the right place every time.
At first I used the dropper to put water on the string, but after a while I realized that I could hold the dropper against the handle and the drops would pretty much be where I needed them every time, so I started using the dropper exclusively after a while.
Not pictured is my D80 wireless remote which I used to snap the photos.
Flickr Explore Jan 23, 2008 #490