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Strobist info: Setup for Candle Smoke image. SB-800 through DIY 10" snoot and DIY ink-jet-printedblue gel to image left and behind the candle, illuminating just the smoke and top of the candle. SB-800 through second snoot just to the right of the frame.
It ain't pretty, and publisher I am not, but the image does show the basic setup of what was going on.
I might add that none of the flashes were attached to my camera, what I did was set a 4 sec shutter speed and let the flash light the shot by activating it manually (press the red test button on the 580 flash). The second flash at the right would fire simultaneously because it was set to go off as a slave, meaning it would fire when it saw any flash at all.
It's also worth mentioning that I turned off the room lights so I didn't contaminate the shot with the orange tungsten color they give off, I set camera white balance to 'flash'. A light in the hallway behind me was far enough away not to matter, and it provided enough light for me to work things.
Setup shot from above and behing camera. Key light is a Bowens 1500 monobloc through a beauty dish with a grid on, with 2 bowens 500's through strips back left and right, and a bowens 750 on a gantry above and behind Chiara to light the background. Lots of black polyboards in tight around Chiara to limit the spill of light.
Main Site: www.tmphoto.co.uk
Blog: www.photosmudger.com
Twitter: @photosmudger
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Dimidium
Gilroy, CA
Took some new promo pictures for my own band featuring our new bassist, Dan.
Set up shot.
We have finally reached Brickvention 2019, display is now complete and have settled in for the next few days.
Hope to have 'Beyond The Brick' call past, as they are giving a talk.
Official photos to be uploaded across the next week.
Setup details:
Two flashes triggered via rf remote trigger. Two sheets of paper, one as diffusor, one as reflector. Mosaic-like glasses with a flower and a speedlite behind them for a nice bokeh background.
Setup for this photo for Macro Mondays:
www.flickr.com/photos/mag3737/53842219499
I spent about half an hour constructing this "light catcher" box, and then I shot my final image with a single click of the shutter.
Lighting & Photography setup for food photos 10-19-2011
Here I used just one Alien Bee 800 strobe. Since I wanted to throw most of the light onto the fireplace in the background yet bleed some light to the side to illuminate the food I chose an umbrella. I aimed the umbrella towards the fireplace and leather sofa but angled it a bit so the amount of light that spilled on the food was the same exposure as that hitting the bricks. You can't feather light in this manner with a softbox.
Even though the light was an Alien Bee strobe I only used the 150 Watt Halogena modeling light bulb to illuminate the scene. This means I had to set the Nikon D3S white balance to "Incandescent" (around 3200*K). While that is not the same color balance as the fire, it is close enough. The other advantage of using the modeling light is that I could select any combination of f-stops and shutter speeds to get the image I wanted.
client: a world-wide corporation's point of sale division
location: one of their local restaurant clients, a neighborhood pub
Setup photo taken using my Android cell phone LG Optimus S.
Typical setup I use for flower bits shots. The glass tablemats make it easy to slide the camera forward in small increments for taking focus stack sequences
Here's the setup for my pure white background shot. I've got two Nikon SB-600s illuminating the background. A Pentax AF540 is in the shoot-through umbrella as the main subject light. My D70 is standing in for my D300 (which is being used to take this shot). I stood just in front of the dining table.
About a month ago I got the Canon Speedlight 430EX for my Canon Powershot S5 IS. It isn't really designed for a smaller than DSLR camera, but other than for macros works great. Too bad I shoot mostly macros. So I cut a white paper bag and taped it to diffuse and deflect the flash down. That works pretty well though it would be better if it was easily removable. I tore it a bit last time I took it off. I am usually looking for small stuff, but if I find anything big and further away I want to shoot, I have to remove it quickly or get a very dark and grainy shot.
I didn't like the price, but now that I have it I am really glad I got it. The refresh rate is awesome; fresh batteries and you can flash as fast as the camera can shoot in continuous mode. That really helps out when using the Raynox at full magnification. I take at least three or four shots of almost everything to make sure I got the focus just right.
The flash diffuser isn't quite as good with the S5's Super Macro. The distance to the subject is much closer than with the Raynox macro adapter so the light comes pretty much straight down. Regular macro is fine though and coming straight down can give an interesting effect.
Before the external flash, I used the CCRRFD, a styrofoam bowl flash diffuser attached to the lens. It worked great, and I still recommend it, but it don't use it much anymore since the external flash is up so high.
Before that was the CFFD, a coffee filter flash diffuser based on the CCRRFD idea because I didn't have any styrofoam bowls. This one is still the most portable, but I haven't used it in a long time since the bowl does a slightly better job.
I haven't used the CCRRFD much either since I got the new flash, but it certainly wins for the smoothest shadows and ease of use. It weighs a ton less. And I feel a lot more comfortable shooting bees with the CCRRFD between me and the bee. But you can't beat the flash's refresh rate.
See my updated setup here.
Olive falling in a Martini cocktail.
Setup see setup shots:
www.flickr.com/photos/galllo/4425583508/
www.flickr.com/photos/galllo/4425579038/
Lessons learned:
- Darkfield illumination works really good with this type of shots,
- a prime lense yields sharper images,
- a low flash power on the speedlights yields sharper drops (thanks, David!),
- more light = more speedlites :-),
- ISO 200 seems to be a good compromise between low flash power and low noise...,
- the glass should be clean :-)
Macro setup using Sony NEX 5, Schneider Enlarger Lens (50mm f2.8 or 80mm f/4), reversed mounted via 43mm-52mm step-up ring and 52mm-Nikon reverse ring adapter, on modified Pentax bellows. NEX attached by a NEX-Nikon lens adapter and Nikon-Pentax adapter. NEX is attached to external Marshall monitor via HDMI for Live-View focusing, although the NEX screen is adequate. Here shown on homemade macro table top rig constructed with parts from a broken 4x5 Horseman large-format camera.
Strobist: WL600 camera left in medium softbox, WL600 camera right in medium softbox, White Lightning WL1600 behind model camera left gridded for hair light. Triggered by pocketwizards.
More from this shoot coming soon.
She did her own makeup and hair and everything.
MM# 592682 Kris Addison (a good friend of mine, so be respectful)
This is a lighting setup for "137:365 - Tea time 2".
A tea pot full of freshly brewed tea was placed on a glass book shelf suspended above a black foam board.
A gray seamless paper is placed behind for the backdrop and it is illuminated with an SB-26 flash at 1/4 power through a grid spot. I also created a long snoot for it from Rosco cinefoil (black aluminum foil). Then I placed three thin strips of gels on the grid - yellow in the middle, red on one side and orange on the other.
Now that the background is taken care of, I placed three white foam board sheets, one above and two to the sides behind the tea pot. I put three flashes into each of them at low power (about 1/16 and 1/32 power) and used more cinefoil to control the light spill onto the background.
Setup for test shots of band members. Actual power settings were a bit different than what the notes say. Set up for www.flickr.com/photos/martinwilmsen/5549936240/
Those among you who follow my posting of Pluto Valve control blocks will soon realise this is again another setup and might also think that I am a weirdo to keep testing new arrangements of the necessary components. Unfortunately, that has been indeed true and the reason for changing has always been the lack of rigidity of the block carrying Pluto trigger and its valves due to the quality of the roller heads I used and of some of the remaining components. Also, I have been trying to minimise the size and number of total components used, while maintaining and also improving the block functionality, ease of operation, and its global stiffness. The current block is built around, in this last version, a camera rig I once used to operate a video serving GH4, but not anymore... There are still a number of areas where the current block can be further improved, but for the time being this is my most rigid and most accommodating configuration ever. I also ordered a Keiser RS1 (5510) system with an RA1 mount head as my currently use Falcon-eyes is not too rigid either.
Setup shot for this photo - www.flickr.com/photos/balakov/11911316544/
Kitchen blowtorch and various aerosols. Don't try this at home unless your home is fireproof!
I'm experimenting with variation in lighting for my figure study stuff as the setup I usually used gave results I really liked, but induced a ton of flare. This is the basic lighting setup I used for the last batch of figure study work. I tweak it according to each pose and add a light or two with grids or on-axis fill where needed, but this shot should give you a good starting point. Its a little more flare-manageable compared to what I used to do, but does not result in quite the same look compared to the older basic setup:
www.flickr.com/photos/68672503@N00/3799744705/
Oh, well. I'll keep tweaking.
Setup shot for the cover of Poker Player, May 2009. Notes should explain everything.
Blog: www.photosmudger.com/
Setup shot for snowflake photos.
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4300472592/
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4300119765/
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4300119329/
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4300119099/
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4300865648/
www.flickr.com/photos/akeeh/4299927289/
Nikon D2H + Micro-Nikkor 55mm/2.8 + bellows unit + extension rings
Setup shot for this photo.
Stand as the Improvised tripod, used at max height.
I screw Manfrotto Stud into camera's tripod socket, then put this to Photoflex Swivel Mount, and put this to a usual stand.
Camera was directed top-down, and triggered by cheap ebay radiotrigger by brand Phottix. Works flawless.
You can see SB-800 and SB-80DX. SB-800 was triggered by SU-800, and powered up with Battery block SD-8a, so even 1/2 power is not a problem, and flashes was recycled quickly.
SB-80DX was triggered optically by another flashes, not by SU-800. Its tricky, but it works, if SB-80DX did NOT see IR signal from SU-800.
And you can see nearby my lovely Lowepro Vertex 300 AW (it can hold all my flashes, camera body, up to 6 lenses, and more room for funny things), and Hakuba Tripod Bag working as counterweight, which holds up to 3-4 stands, umbrellas, spring clamps, battery blocks, etc etc etc - really great bag, and very unexpensive.
Maybe I should have titled this, overkill on the lighting, the subject is just one little leaf after all :)
In reality, the lights are there for the background really and the setup shot here, doesnt really show the light on the subject itself.
So starting with the backdrop:
In plain sight, a pair of Neewer SF-01 mini slave flashes, mounted on little tripods. The one on the left set to slave mode and the one on the right has a Blazzeo SLT-4 radio trigger.
Hiding below the glass shelf, is a Yongnuo YN-460 at 1/2 power, fitted with a difusser cap and set to slave mode. All 3 are there just to illuminate the background which creates the reflection on the glass surface.
Lighting the leaf itself, is a Meike FC100 ring flash, mounted on the cameras lens and also triggered by another Blazzeo SLT-4 radio trigger. Due to having pulled back to take this setup shot, the short range of the ringflash is hardly registering in this photo.
The video light to the left, is used as a focussing aidand though turned on in this shot, is not powerful enough to show compared with the flashes.
One final item, a white sheet of foamcore was held above, to bounce a little more light back into the scene.
EDIT : One final thing that I should have mentioned. Anybody familiar with ringflashes may be wondering about how the sender unit was mounted, as the cameras hotshoe contained the transmitter for the radio triggers. Well it wasnt pretty, LOL. A spring mounted clamp was attached to the leg of the cameras tripod, on which was mounted a coldshoe into which the radio trigger and sender were placed. Messy, but it worked :)
This is my mother-in-laws vintage, silver hand mirror. I've always liked the aesthetics of it so I'm glad I finally shot it.
Einstein 640 w/ 10" x 36" Stripbox left
Einstein 640 w/ 10" x 36" Stripbox right
Triggered w/ CyberSync
The setup shots had an additional Einstein 640 pointed at the ceiling to add some fill light. The mirror was raised using empty 120mm film rolls.
Latest version of a setup last used nearly 2 years ago, is it really that long ?
At the core of the setup is a plastic fishtank, raised about 6 inches/150mm above the table, flanked each side with difussion panels made of cardboard trays, with a cutout covered in plastic document wallets containing tracing paper.
Outside these, a pair of Neewer SF-01 Mini slave flashes, on radio triggers and mini tripods.
At the rear, a Yongnuo 460 on its stand, pointed toward a white card backdrop and triggered by it's optical sensor.
The 2 side flashes were fitted with colour filters (Gels also work) in this shot red and blue, but I do vary them.
Guess I had better mention the air supply. That was me blowing through the tube, LOL, but being a bit more serious, the airline goes into the tank at the right, held in place by a clamp.
Once in the tank it goes to a right angle union, then into an old glass pill bottle lying on the base of the tank. You might also note the lead fishing weights that are placed next to the bottle, these are just there to stop it moving around when air is blown into it.
The reason for the bottle is to allow a reservoir of air to build up, then when the bubbles break free, they are bigger than if just coming from the tube.
Makes a lot of mess and before I do any more of these, must find a drip tray to put under the tank to contain the spills. Note the sponge cloth at the far right which got a lot of use in this session.
All good fun, who doesnt enjoy making a mess :~)
One of the finished shots in the first comment below :