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Setup shot. My first attempt at food photography.
Strobist: Old Achiever flash in a Makeshift softbox behind food camera right, poster board front left for fill reflection, and one more old manual flash behind the food to light the bottle of olive oil.
Check out the shots from this setup Here! and Right Here!
This is my Fire Photography Setup:
-Canon 30D Gripped with 17/55 f2.8 IS
- Canon Digital Rebel Gripped with 70-200 f2.8 IS
-Used set of Wichita Fire Department turnout gear
-Ben II Plus Helmet
-Reflective Vest
-Pelican Case with Velcro inserts
-Motorola MTX8250 Radio
-Radio Shack Scanner
-2 Motorola Pagers (Different Departments)
Strobist-setup:
- 580 EXII @ 1/16 24mm through Westcott Apollo Micro Softbox above cam
- 430 EXII @ 1/32 105mm with snoot infront of cam
- EOS 5D MKII @ 1/200 ISO 50
- EF 50 1.4 @ f/1.4
- triggered with Yongnuo RF-602
Setup for the little japanese lantern on water.
Above and lighting the backdrop, my usual Vivitar 2800 fitted with a blue filter and a larger flag to shield the water from direct light.
On the left, a Yongnuo YN460 fitted with a snoot and grid and set to 1/32.
To the right (not in shot), a Canon 430EZ, zoomed to 80mm, set to 1/32 and fitted with a snoot.
Just behind the flash on the left can be glimpsed a low powered desklamp used to illuminate the area for focussing, but as you can see, has no effect on the image.
The image can be seen here:
New setup with my PowerMac G4 Cube and 17" LCD Studio Display.
Cube specs: G4 450MHz, 1GB RAM, 160GB HDD, Combo drive, GeForce 2mx, Airport Card.
Also: 3rd Gen iPod (20GB), Apple Pro Speakers, White Apple Keyboard, Cheap wireless optical mouse, 200GB FW HDD, Logitexh X-230, Panasonic VS6, Newton's Cradle, Nodding Dog.
Panoramic sot of the empty hall at the Oregon Convention Center. You can see tables being setup near the large open door at the back of the hall.
This is my setup as of today. I think it needs something in the blank space though, but what? tell me in the comment-field.
My new setup for making macro-scale (~1:2) images of meteorite thin sections in cross-polarized (Xpolar) light.
This is much less expensive and easier to use than a petrographic microscope, which doesn't give you a complete view of the thin section in any case. So, for macro views this is a much better approach.
You can still find used Bowens Illumitrans slide copiers for under $100. For this purpose, all you need to work is the bellows, the camera adapter, an enlarging lens, and the substage strobe and focusing lamp.
You could do this with any light table (tracing box) as well.
The only addition is two linear polarizing camera filters (the two pictured here are Hoya filters in 67mm size, but any size over 48mm will work).
The method is simple:
1. You illuminate the section from below, by putting it on top of one of the polarizers.
2. Focus the camera (a film camera is standing in here for my DSLR, which was busy taking its picture) -- a viewfinder magnifier helps a lot here.
3. Place the second polarizer over the thin section, rotating the upper polarizer relative to the lower one until the field goes dark (only the section will be illuminated).
4. Flash the strobe to make the image. Depending on the magnification in the setup, the f-stop setting of the copier lens, and the darkness of the slide, multiple flashes may be needed.
Total cost of this setup is just under $120 (used pieces) not counting the camera, about 1/3rd the cost of an entry-level petrographic microscope. If you use a simple tracing box for illumination (which will require a time exposure on the camera), you can do it for about half that.
Note: Circular polarizers (the most common type used with cameras) don't work as well, because they don't completely cross-polarize. Be sure to specify PL, not CPL, filters if you go shopping.
A tip of the cap to the late Lawrence A. Chitwood for the method used here.
Some early results:
www.flickr.com/photos/chipdatajeffb/2704234942/
Nikon D7100 mounted on a Manfrotto dual arm flash holder, two SB600 speed lights mounted to shoot from sides, ISO200, f/32, 1/200 sec using mirror up mode; 5 shots processed in Aperture and Topaz Denoise then output as TIFF and stacked together using Zerene, then tweaked with Topaz Adjust. Not as sharp as I'd like but I just got this setup going today. Will get better with time.
Leitz Summicron 35mm f/2.0
Leitz Summicron 50mm f/2.0
Leitz Tele-Elmarit 90mm f/2.8
with Sony ILCE-7R (A7R)
Setup for my zombie shooting.
Strobist:
SB-600 (24mm, @1/4) in a beauty dish pointed from below at the zombie and for the background a SB-900 (tupperware on it, @1/2) was used. Both were triggered with the SU-800.
A quick christmas-holiday approach to the DIY Ringlight topic. I used an old IKEA floor uplighter and that was good to keep the collateral damage near to 0.
(+) No cost if you have a similar lamp
(+) Setup is quickly done
(-) Light is quite weak, so I had to use a wide angle lens to come close enaugh, what made the face look smehow frog like
(-) White adjustment neccessary during raw processing
(-) This is not portable at all
SETUP: Place the person close to a wall. Bring the light directly in front of the person and place the camera in front of the light. The camera is covering the middle of the light, so that it appears similar to a ring light.
Results:
Setup shot for all the Glowing Dumbells shots, the notes ought to answer any questions.
Not pictured is the camera very firmly clamped to a big studio tripod, and fired via a cable release.
Blog: www.photosmudger.com/
UPDATE: Check out my new work setup.
My new computer setup:
1 DELL Inspiron 1100 laptop
- 2.2 GHZ
- 1GB RAM
- 80GB 7200RPM HD
1 DELL Inspiron tower
- 2.33GHZ Intel Core 2 Duo
- 3GB 800MHZ DDR2 RAM
- 500GB 7200RPM HD
- 512MB graphics card w/ dual DVI
- DELL 22" widescreen LCD
- SAMSUNG SyncMaster 2220wm 22" LCD widescreen monitor
- Microsoft Wireless Desktop 6000
1 HP Pavilion (local webserver)
- 650MHZ
- 512MB RAM
- 40GB 5000RPM HD
Other stuff on the desk:
- Motorola Q
- Jabra JX10
- 3g 15GB iPod
- 4g 30GB iPod Photo
- Canon IXY Digital Li4
- HP Deskjet 932c (7+ years old)
- Boston Acoustics Speakers
- Lamp
- Coffee
Pure daylight setup for the Espressi shot. Cloudy sky, corrected a bit towards sunlight via white balance.
This is how I documented Maria's painting. Down below in the comments, you can see the picture, itself.
I've now included enough setup shots that I decided to create of Set of them, which you can see here if you find the pictures helpful. www.flickr.com/photos/9422878@N08/sets/72157642517882554/
Setup shot for 130/365 Purple Umbrella.
Camera Info:
Canon 7D, Sigma DC 17-70mm 1:2.8-4 Macro HSM @28mm, f/5.0, 1/200s, ISO 100
Strobist Info:
-Canon 430EXII Camera Right and in front of subject, 1/1 Power, @24mm zoom, about 7 feet high, 5 feet away from subject inside 40 inch Wescott softbox.
-Flash triggered with Interfit Strobie.
Follow me on Twitter @matthewcoughlin.
I didn't have a budget for an umbrella braket or a light stand, so I made it from "scratch":
A vivitar 285hv is attached to an IKEA lamp stand. The umbrella was found on ebay, I attached another (dismounted) black umbrella to the back to bounce.
I have no idea what this yellow thingy are called. I found them 8 for 1£ at the pound land in York. It's a sort of hard metal cable you can bend with some foam around. You can grip it around whatever comes to your mind.
It's a bit more versatile than simple ball bungees as they still have some rigidity, so for example, you can use them to attach and direct an umbrella.
They are sold to attach things together when doing DIY jobs. If you have any idea of what it can be...
Setup for insects in flight. This setup take pictures of insects inflight. An optical extra lens system is added to look for insects in focus. Only 40 usec are needed to check if there are objects in focus.
This unit works on reflected laserlight. No more leaserbeams are needed, no more long arms to put the receivers on the top of the system. The full distance is now free between camera and insects. The unit works in full dark or even in full bright sun. Sensivity can by adjusted by mean of a simple potmeter. To work in full dark 2 to 4 extra high power leds are added. 2 of this high power leds are UV leds at 405nm. This UV light attrack some insects inflight.
Today the first real live tests are done. This works realy nice. At this time no insects are available considering the winter periode here. Focus distance can by adjusted to every value. The focus range of the detector is very narrow. 1 to 2 mm at a distance of 700 mm form the camera. Objects of 2 mm diameter can by easily detected. Detector works also on full black insects. 4 lasers are used, 2 IR 5 mw lasers at 850 nm and 2 x 10 mw green lasers. The green lasers are only for visual position to the insects.
All electronics are mounted into the frame. One CPLD board is used and 2 boards with an AVR controller. The information from the optical system are fast transmitted from the AVR controller to the CPLD board. An 2x16 character LCD display give the status from the system. value of the batterys, value of the high voltage for the electro magnet at 150V, sensivity of the focus detector, width of the digital filter used, value of the environment light, value of the laser return light and expired time between start camera and moment of the picture.