Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany

Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)

Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief

35 mm film Viewfinder camera

Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8

Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter

setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens

Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale

Focus range: 1-5m +inf.

Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet

setting : ring and scale on the lens

Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,

very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake

Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate

Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)

Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring

Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens

View finder: bright frame finder,

Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate

Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate

Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear

thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now

Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter

Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds

Self-timer: none

Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera

Film loading: special easy quick loading system

Body: metal

Tripod socket: 1/4''

serial no. LW 6837 BC

The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.

Photos by the camera

Diavolino (EMSL Arduino clone) checking the temperature with 17 DS18B20 and 2 DS1820 one-wire temperature sensors. Using an Adafruit DS1307 breakout for time of day and FTDI Friend to connect to my computer which is currently logging the serial output.

Code on the ATMega328 reads all the sensors it finds on startup every 10 seconds, averages them and sends a record on the serial port. It won't properly handle a sensor being removed, but that's not a use case I intend. Originally built to see how the DS18b20s were in agreement, then modified to have a little fun with Seattle's little bit of summer.

The central sensor node allows for visual/infrared sighting, as well as a laser designator for both the Longbolt missiles and for potential air support. The radar system is actually quite powerful, representing a new generation detection.

Yesterday we took a trip to the small island of Spinalonga, along with some friends, and we had a great time. I'll be posting photos of the island during this week.

See where this picture was taken. [?]

NYC: Home / Sensor Cleaning Tools

Sensor Swabs + Eclipse2 weren't getting the D700 sensors clean. Switched to VisibleDust: perfect!

1) Blower.

2) Brush + blower.

3) Smear Away x2 on one swab + brush + blower.

4) VDust Plus x2 on one swab + brush + blower.

Nikon D700 | Nikon AF-S 60 | ƒ3 | 1/30s | ISO3200 | Handheld

current ATMs will see a new design adopting a fingerprint biometric sensor by pressing yr thumb onto the sensor.....www.scientificamerican.com

DSC_5892

+++ DISCLAIMER +++

Nothing you see here is real, even though the conversion or the presented background story might be based on historical facts. BEWARE!

Some background:

The McDonnell F-101 Voodoo was a supersonic jet fighter which primarily served the United States Air Force (USAF). Initially designed by McDonnell Aircraft as a long-range bomber escort (known as a penetration fighter) for the Strategic Air Command (SAC), the Voodoo was instead developed as a nuclear-armed fighter-bomber for the Tactical Air Command (TAC) and later evolved into an all-weather interceptor as well as into a reconnaissance platform.

USAF F-101B interceptors were, as more modern and effective interceptors became available (esp. the F-4 Phantom II), handed off to the Air National Guard, where they served in the fighter role until 1982. Canadian CF-101B interceptors remained in service until 1984 and were replaced by the CF-18 Hornet. The last operational Canadian Voodoo, a single EF-101B (nicknamed the “Electric Voodoo”, a CF-101B outfitted with the jamming system of the EB-57E Canberra and painted all-black) was returned to the United States on 7 April 1987. However, the RF-101Js served with the Texas ANG until 1988, effectively being the last operational Voodoos in the world. They were replaced with RF-4Cs.

General characteristics:

Crew: Two

Length: 67 ft 5 in (20.55 m)

Wingspan: 39 ft 8 in (12.09 m)

Height: 18 ft 0 in (5.49 m)

Wing area: 368 ft² (34.20 m²)

Airfoil: NACA 65A007 mod root, 65A006 mod tip

Empty weight: 28,495 lb (12,925 kg)

Loaded weight: 45,665 lb (20,715 kg)

Max. takeoff weight: 52,400 lb (23,770 kg)

Powerplant:

2× Pratt & Whitney J57-P-55 afterburning turbojets

with 11,990 lbf (53.3 kN) dry thrust and 16,900 lbf (75.2 kN) thrust with afterburner each

Performance:

Maximum speed: Mach 1.72, 1,134 mph (1,825 km/h) at 35,000 ft (10,500 m)

Range: 1,520 mi (2,450 km)

Service ceiling: 54,800 ft (17,800 m)

Rate of climb: 36,500 ft/min (185 m/s)

Wing loading: 124 lb/ft² (607 kg/m²)

Thrust/weight: 0.74

Armament:

None, but two 450 US gal (370 imp gal; 1,700 l) drop-tanks were frequently carried on ventral

hardpoints; alternatively, a central hardpoint could take single, large loads like the HIAC-1 LOROP

camera pod.

A pair of retrofitted underwing hardpoints could carry light loads like ECM jammer pods,

flare/chaff dispensers or photoflash ejectors

The kit and its assembly:

This is another project that I had on my agenda for a long while. It originally started with pictures of an RF-101H gate guard in Louisville at Standiford Field International from around 1987-1991:

imgproc.airliners.net/photos/airliners/6/2/9/1351926.jpg?...

www.aerialvisuals.ca/Airframe/Gallery/0/41/0000041339.jpg

This preserved machine wore a rather unusual (for a Voodoo) ‘Hill’ low-viz scheme with toned-down markings, quite similar to the late USAF F-4 Phantom IIs of the early Eighties. The big aircraft looked quite good in this simple livery, and I kept the idea of a Hill scheme Voodoo in the back of my mind for some years until I recently had the opportunity to buy a cheap Matchbox Voodoo w/o box and decals. With its optional (and unique) RF-101B parts I decided to take the Hill Voodoo idea to the hardware stage and create another submission to the “Reconnaissance and Surveillance” group build at whatifmodellers.com around July 2021: an ANG recce conversion of a former two-seat interceptor, using the RF-101B as benchmark but with a different suite of sensors.

However, the Matchbox Voodoo kit is rather mediocre, and in a rather ambitious mood I decided to “upgrade” the project with a Revell F-101B as the model’s basis. This kit is from 1991 and a MUCH better and finely detailed model than the rather simple Matchbox kit from the early Eighties. In fact, the Revell F-101B is actually a scaled-down version of Monogram’s 1:48 F-101B model kit from 1985, with many delicate details. But while this downscaling practice has produced some very nice 1:72 models like the F-105D or the F-4D, the scaling effect caused IMHO in this case a couple of problems. Revell's assembly instructions for the 1:72 kit are not good, either. While the step-by-step documentation is basically good, some sketches are so cluttered that you cannot tell where parts in the cockpit or on the landing gear are actually intended to be placed and how. This is made worse by the fact that there are no suitable markings on the parts – you are left to guessing.

Worse, there is a massive construction error: the way the wings section is to be assembled and mounted to the hull is impossible! The upper wing halves have locator pins for the fuselage, but they are supposed to be glued to the lower wing half (which also encompasses the aircraft's belly) and the mounted to the hull. The locator pins make this impossible, unless you bend the lower wing section to a point where it might warp or break, or you just cut the pins off - and live with some instability. Technically the upper wing halves have to be mounted to the fuselage before you glue the lower wing section to them, but I am not certain if this would work well because you also have to assemble the air intakes at the same time “from behind”, which is only feasible when the wings have already been completed but still left away from the fuselage. It’s a nonsense construction! I cannot remember when I came across a kit the last time with such an inherent design flaw?

Except for the transplanted RF-101B nose section, which did not fit well because the Matchbox Voodoo apparently has a more slender nose, the Revell kit was built mostly OOB. However, this is already a challenge in itself because of the kit’s inherent flaws (see above), its complex construction and an unorthodox assembly sequence, due to many separate internal modules including the cockpit tub, a separate (fully detailed) front landing gear well, a rotating weapon bay, air intakes with complete ducts, and the wing section. A fiddly affair.

Only a few further changes beyond the characteristic camera fairing under the radome were made. The rotating weapon bay was faired-over with the original weapon pallet, just fixing it into place and using putty to blend it into the belly. The small underwing pylons (an upgrade that actually happened to some late Voodoos) were taken from a vintage Revell F-16. The SLAR antenna fairings along the cockpit flanks were created with 0.5mm styrene sheet and some PSR. They are a little too obvious/protruding, but for a retrofitted solution I find the result acceptable. The drop tanks came from the Revell kit, the underwing ordnance consists of an ALQ-119 ECM pod from a Hasegawa aftermarket set and a SUU-42 dispenser, scratched from a Starfighter ventral drop tank, bomb fins and the back of a Soviet unguided missile launcher.

Painting and markings:

Very simple and basic. While I originally wanted to adopt the simple two-tone ‘Hill’ scheme from the gate guard for my fictional Voodoo, I eventually settled for the very similar but slightly more sophisticated ‘Egypt One’ scheme that was introduced with the first F-16s – it just works better on the F-101’s surfaces. This scheme uses three grey tones: FS 36118 (Gunship Gray, ModelMaster 1723) for the upper wing surfaces, the “saddle” on the fuselage and the canopy area with an anti-glare panel, FS 36270 (Medium Grey, Humbrol 126) on the fin and the fuselage area in front of the wing roots, and FS 36375 (Light Ghost Grey, Humbrol 127) for all lower surfaces, all blended into each other with straight but slightly blurred edges (created with a soft, flat brush). The radome and the conformal antennae on the flanks became Revell 47 for a consistent grey-in-grey look, but with a slightly different shade. The model received an overall black ink washing and some post panel shading, so that the large grey areas would not look too uniform.

As an updated USAF aircraft I changed the color of the landing gear wells’ interior from green zinc chromate primer to more modern, uniform white, even though the red inside of the covers was retained. The interior of the flaps (a nice OOB option of Revell’s kit) and the air brakes became bright red, too.

The cockpit retained its standard medium grey (Humbrol 140, Dark Gull Grey) interior and I used the instrument decals from the kit – even though these did not fit well onto the 3D dashboards and side consoles. WTF? Decal softener came to the rescue. The exhaust area was painted with Revell 91 (Iron) and Humbrol’s Steel Metallizer (27003), later treated with graphite for a dirty, metallic shine.

Markings/decals primarily come from a 1:72 Hi-Decal F-4D sheet that contains (among others) several Texas ANG Phantoms from the mid-Eighties. Some stencils were taken over from the original Voodoo sheet, the yellow formation lights had to be procured from a Hasegawa F-4E/J sheet (the Matchbox sheet was lost and the Revell sheet lacks them completely!). The characteristic deep yellow canopy sealant stripes came from a CF-101 sheet from Winter Valley Decals (today part of Canuck Models as CAD 72008). I was lucky to have them left over from another what-if build MANY moons ago, my fictional CF-151 kitbashing.

Everything went on smoothly, but the walkway markings above the air intakes became a problem. I initially used those from the Revell sheet, which are only the outlines so that the camouflage would still be visible. But the decal film, which is an open square, turned out to be so thin that it wrinkled on the curved surface whatever I tried, and what looked like a crisp black outline on the white decal paper turned out to be a translucent dark blue with blurry edges on the kit. I scrapped them while still wet… Enter plan B: Next came the walkway markings from the aforementioned Winter Valley sheet, which were MUCH better, sharper and opaque, but they included the grey walking areas. While the tone looked O.K. on the sheet it turned out to be much too light for the all-grey Voodoo, standing out and totally ruining the low-viz look. With a bleeding heart I eventually ripped them off of the model with the help of adhesive tape, what left light grey residues. Instead of messing even more with the model I finally decided to embrace this accident and manually added a new black frame to the walkway areas with generic 2mm decal stripe material from TL Modellbau The area now looks rather worn, as if the camouflage had peeled off and light grey primer shows through. An unintentional result, but it looks quite “natural”.

The “Rhino Express” nose art was created with Corel Draw and produced with a simple inkjet printer on clear decal sheet. It was inspired by the “toenail” decoration on the main landing gear covers, a subtle detail I saw IIRC on a late CF-101B and painted onto the model by hand. With its all-grey livery, the rhino theme appeared so appropriate, and the tag on the nose appeared like a natural addition. It’s all not obvious but adds a personal touch to the aircraft.

Finally, after some more exhaust stains had been added to various air outlets around the hull, the model was sealed with matt acrylic varnish, position lights were added with clear paint and the camera windows, which had been created with black decal material, received glossy covers. The IRST sensor was painted with translucent black over a gold base.

Well, while the all-grey USAF livery in itself is quite dull and boring, but I must say that it suits the huge and slender Voodoo well. It emphasizes the aircraft's sleek lines and the Texas ANG fin flash as a colorful counterpoint, as well as the many red interior sections that only show from certain angles, nicely break the adapted low-viz Egypt One livery up. The whole thing looks surprisingly convincing, and the subtle rhino markings add a certain tongue-in-cheek touch.

MOC: Sensor GTR. Hey, look at that snazzy engine! I have no idea how it works, but it looks great.

Atardecer digital dentro de un sensor.

Lorenzo Moggio cleaning sensors as part of his regular maintenance for scientific instruments.

During summer aircraft take off on an almost daily basis. Concordia is a hubbub of activity as researchers from disciplines as diverse as astronomy, seismology, human physiology and glaciology descend to work in this unique location.

For the rest of the year, around 14 crewmembers remain to keep the station running during the cold, dark winter months.

ESA sponsors a research medical doctor in Concordia to study the effects of living in isolation. The extreme cold, sensory deprivation and remoteness make living in Concordia similar to living on another planet.

Credits: ESA/IPEV/PNRA-B. Healey

A technical drawing of the latest version of the Sensor Fish, illustrating the various directions in which the device’s motions are recorded.

Terms of Use: Our images are freely and publicly available for use with the credit line, "Courtesy of Pacific Northwest National Laboratory." Please use provided caption information for use in appropriate context.

This small sensor has a decent range and can easily cover the distance of a room and works really well even in the dark. The other feature I really like about this particular sensor is the ability to set the delay on how frequently it can be triggered. Anywhere from 4 seconds up to 2 hours. I'll probably set it somewhere in the range of 10-15 seconds.

APS-C sensor, X-Trans CMOS III.

Flagship model of Fuji X series. My husband wrote the review in Japanese, I took the photos of the camera, in March.

The first part

news.mynavi.jp/articles/2016/03/09/x-pro2_1/

The latter part

news.mynavi.jp/articles/2016/03/12/x-pro2_2/

CASIO G-SHOCK Mudmaster Twin Sensor, GG-1000-1A3DR on Module 5476.

agfa 1035 sensor fomapan 400

I'm feeling the need to rant about the Nikon Service department. A couple of months ago, I encountered the dreaded dust spot issue on my Nikon D70. I decided to send the camera in to Nikon Service for a sensor cleaning because I wasn't comfortable with doing this myself. Fifty dollars (this is not covered under the warranty) and 6 weeks later I get the camera back. I take some test photos... and discover that the dust spot problem just got worse!!! Are there any other Nikon owners out there who have had a similar problem with Nikon Service??? And for those of you who are digital SLR users who change lenses from time to time, have you ever experienced the dust spot issue?

android sensorly

FedEx MD-11 on final for Runway 28C at Chicago O'Hare International airport.

This is a 5 megapixel image sensor from my old HTC Aria Smart Phone.

This is a little bigger than 1:1 macro since the Nikkor 40mm 2.8G DX can be manually focused a little past 1:1. I used both of my SB-700's for this. They were set to 1/50th power.

Yes, Star Trek inspired

28. September 2022 | Carlowitzcenter Chemnitz

Use my ccd sensor dc camera to take shoot

Sensor's been cleaned up by Nikon School on January. This is a picture of the empty blue sky in June.

Camera is currently being fixed at Nikon's, I hope this will be its last trip.

Capteur d'un appareil photo Panasonic DMC-FZ28 (focus stacking).

Image composée de 17 photos assemblées avec CombineZP.

Available at Adafruit!

sensor monocromático

Sensor Guard

A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.

D300 + af200 mm + ais 35 mm reverse.

SB-29-s flash.

40 pictures @ 5 um zerene stacking.

I found the sensor type number on the chip:

Image sensor CCD KC73129

• Number of Total Pixels: 537(H) ´ 597(V)

• Number of Effective Pixels: 500(H) ´ 582(V)

• Chip Size: 6.00mm(H) ´ 5.10mm(V)

• Unit Pixel Size: 9.80um(H) ´ 6.30um(V)

100% crop image on the corner.

At Pacific Northwest National Laboratory, researchers are conducting cutting edge work to build highly efficient, noninvasive sensors based on carbon nanotube technologies. For example, researchers are building a sensor based on enzymes that self-assemble layer by layer onto tiny hallow carbon tubes. When the sensor encounters organophosphates, the active agent in certain insecticides and chemical warfare agents, the enzymes slow down. The reduced activity is transmitted as an electrochemical signal through the carbon nanotubes to the attached electrode. The resulting measurements can show the concentration of organophosphates in a person's saliva, a city's water supply, or other contaminated waters.

In this photo: Dan Du

For more information, visit www.pnl.gov/news

Terms of Use: Our images are freely and publicly available for use with the credit line, "Courtesy of Pacific Northwest National Laboratory." Please use provided caption information for use in appropriate context.

Balloon with cornflour inside popped with a dart. Shutter open, SB900 front, camera right, at 1/128 triggered by Triggertrap on sound sensor.

28. September 2022 | Carlowitzcenter Chemnitz

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

1986 Fender Stratocaster with Fender Lace Sensor Pickups

Fender 1986 USA Strat Original & Case

Fender 1986 USA Stratocaster Original & Case

Agfa Silette LK Sensor, introduced 1970, perhaps one of the last Silettes and an early Agfa with the red shutter release button. The body is based on the Agfa Optima 200 from 1968.

It is a low-budget camera, the lens barrel and the housing are made of plastic, though the top and the bottom look like metal. This camera hasn't a rewind crank, the rewinding is done by the advance lever, when the button "R" is tripped before, so the inner mechanism is complex.

The lens is a Color-Agnar 2.8/45 mm with three elements, the shutter is a Parator with 1/30 to 1/300 s and B. The Selenium exposure meter is coupled and the match needle is displayed in the viewfinder and on top, the ASA range is from 25 to 400 ASA. All settings has to be done manually, like on all Silettes, I think. The LK has a thread for a cable release on the backside and a hot shoe. There is no self-timer, no focussing aid and the frame counter has to be reset manually.

(If you want to remove the top plate: there is a third screw hidden in the hot shoe. The cover in the hot shoe has the most diabolic clip mechanism I've ever experienced.)

sensing of the bloodstream of the finger-tip

Humidity/Temperature sensor using ElectricImp for connectivity.