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I have had some dust stuck on my sensor since getting my A7III and sadly the rocket blower couldn't remove it. I usually pay to get my sensor cleaned but decided to give cleaning it myself a try and I'm glad I did.
Los 13699 fotogramas restantes se pueden ver acá:
Y de yapa, un bellísimo collage inspirado en esos fotogramas:
Agfa Paratic Shutter as used on the Optima 200 Sensor (second version). Produced c.1969.
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3 Brass screws (see red arrow) hold the Rear Plastic Collar to the shutter.
After these are removed it is possible to lift the Collar slightly and take the Flash Sync Wires out of the harness clamps.
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WARNING :
This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !
M240 / 50 Summilux
Thank you for visiting and viewing.
Jim
No Usage Authorized Without Prior Written Permission.
©2015 Jim Servies Photography
All Rights Reserved.
Agfa Optima 200 Sensor (second version).
German viewfinder camera produced c.1969.
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The Meter Unit removed and lying upside-down.
There is a Green Mask (see green arrow) in a Slide and a Red Mask (see red arrow) moving with the Meter Needle.
These are used for the OK Exposure and Underexposure signals in the Viewfinder.
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WARNING :
This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !
El sensor que está en segundo plano es inductivo y detecta cuando el piñón de ataque del prelanzador está en reposo (LED verde) y cuando está accionado (LED rojo). Este único LED está encima del panel de instrumentos al lado del cuenta revoluciones del rotor y se ilumina en verde o rojo según el sensor detecta o no el piñón de ataque. Es un elemento que nos indica que una vez prelanzado, el piñón a descendido completamente y se puede iniciar el despegue al pasar de color rojo a color verde.
I will be using this camera in week 457 of my 52 film cameras in 52 weeks project:
www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/collections/72157623113584240
The Starting Line, December 17th 2021, Franklin Music Hall. Philadelphia PA.
This was the first concert I got to shoot with the Nikon Z9. The lighting at this venue is not very good, as you can see, there was not a lot of front light. Without a front "white wash" or "spot lights", your images will be all over the place.
Without the spot or white wash, you have to bump your ISO higher than normal, and work the files a lot more in post.
With all of that being said, I still love the files I get from a Nikon. The cameras SUPER QUICK when it comes to taking photos. I shot it only in 20 FPS mode as you can't get RAW files at 30 FPS. Plus, you don't exactly need 30 FPS in this situation. (i wont be using 30 because it's JPEG).
In therms of Auto Focus, the focusing boxes were all over the dam place due to the lack of light in the face. It might find the eye in some situations, then jump to something else because there wasn't a lot of light.
Stephen was at the show shooting with the Canon R3 and ran into the same problem with the face detect and eye af bouncing all over the place.
What I can say, is the Nikon glass all the way around is slower focusing then Canon and Sony. Especially the 1.8 lenses, they are not as quick as I would like. The 70-200 is better, but in my experience using all flagship systems, the Nikon lags behind with focus speed. With that being said, it's lightyears ahead of the Z6 and Z7 and I could use it without an issue. I think I would on occasion miss some images that the Sony or Canon wouldn't miss, but it would be fine.
In terms of Banding, I did run into some issues caused by flickering LED lights. This is normal for all stacked sensor cameras from the a9 to a1 to Z9 and R3. The Canon and Sony's offer you variable shutter speeds to try and match the flickering. The issue there, when you have multiple types of LED lights, there's no way to match all of them. As a last resort the a1 and R3 also have a shutter and the Z9 does not. Stephen switched the shutter on and if he was above 1/400th of a second, even with the mechanical shutter, he still saw some banding. I felt the Z9 with Flickr mode on and off (it does not have variable shutter speed) did a very nice job. There's only so much you can do with these LED lights and I think the Nikon handled it really well. This was just a crap lighting situation that really pushes all cameras to the extreme.
This is just one concert setting, I shot with MUCH BETTER lighting the next night and got some great images, I will share those another time.
Another issue I ran in to, it's hard to know when you're taking photos when you can't hear the digital shutter noise. Theres white lines that show up around the outsides of the frames, but it's mostly out of my field of view. So it's hard to know when you're shooting unless you take your eyes away from the subjects, which I don't want to do. In fact, I handed the camera to my friend Richie to give it a shot, he took 350 images in 3 minutes because he said "there's no indication i'm taking photos". Canon puts a box more in the middle of the frame so you know when you're shooting.
It's been a while since i've uploaded all the FULL RES edited jpegs for people to see, but it was time to do it again.
I will have a lot more to say about the Z9 as I continue to use it. The good news is, i've shot two concerts, birds flying and a basketball game so far. Is it perfect....no, is it horrible, far from it. It has it's quirks, it needs some tweaks and I will pass my findings back to Nikon and everyone else who's interested.
One of my Fuji X-Pro1 bodies is broken. It will power up, take a few shots, and then shut down. When I try to turn it on, it sometimes gives a message that says to turn the camera off and try turning it on again. I have also noticed a large, diffuse, white defect in the upper right quadrant of the sensor.
I later concluded that I had damaged my sensor while shooting a solar eclipse. Rather than repairing the camera, I decided to replace it with a Fuji X-Pro2.
After great demand and lots of encouragement from friend photographers, the result of this very work intensive project is finally available. Please check your respective amazon online store.
The paperback version is recommended over the kindle version
Content:
This book is unique, in that it focuses on greatly improving photography skills, both for amateurs and professionals, by understanding the image sensor & camera operation and the impact of parameters changes on image quality.
Are you one of those photographers who continuously fights excessive image noise when shooting birds-in-flight, a photographer who would like to understand why certain camera and lens settings do a great job and others don’t, or, are you a photographer who fails in creating top quality images, independent of the circumstances? Then stop looking, because you have found your comprehensively written expert guide, created by image sensor specialist George F. Vittman, PhD, who has worked with world-renowned specialists in the field since the mid-1980ies, and who is also an outstanding and award-winning photographer.
Without going into too much technical detail, this book introduces the basic image sensor operation, and it devotes a large fraction to the study of visible image noise. What is noise caused by, what is its dependence on the 3 camera exposure parameters, shutter time, lens aperture and ISO-value, how does post-processing affect noise, and most importantly, how can the image noise be minimized under different circumstances. Besides image noise, this book also reveals little known secrets regarding auto-focus, camera operation and optics, and it gives image sensor based recommendations for a camera choice in the different fields of photography.
Olympus E-500 ( KODAK CCD sensor ) + Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 50mm f/2.0 Macro
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Puma concolor; Mountain lion; motion-sensor camera. San Mateo County, Santa Cruz Mountains, California, U.S.A.
Scintillating glass optical fibers are the first viable medium for large-area, solid-state, thermal neutron sensors that have applications in national security, medicine, and materials research. Here, ultraviolet-induced fluorescence mimics scintillation.
For more information, visit www.pnl.gov/news/
Terms of Use: Our images are freely and publicly available for use with the credit line, "Courtesy of Pacific Northwest National Laboratory." Please use provided caption information for use in appropriate context.
'HARLEY DAVIDSON WORLD CHESTERFIELD' - TAKEN ON A PANASONIC LUMIX DMC-FX12 COMPACT CCD SENSOR CAMERA. - AUGUST 2024
"Magic Wire" is so called because of detecting proximity to antenna.
THE MAGIC WIRE
As shown in the diagram, the input tube is a type 6R7 duo-diode triode. The triode section forms the oscillator, in conjunction with the coil L1 which is center-tapped to the cathode. When the triode section is oscillating, the r.f. voltage developed from cathode to ground is impressed on the diode section, causing current to flow through R2 and making the diode plates negative with respect to ground. The control grid of the 25L6 power tube is connected to the diode plates of the 6R7 and consequently a negative bias is placed on the grid which reduces its plate current to a very low value. As soon as the triode ceases to oscillate, there is no longer any r.f. voltage applied to the diodes, the voltage drops and the 25L6 draws high plate current, causing the relay to operate.
It will be noted that no rectifier tube or filler circuit is required in this design, yet the instrument functions on either a.c. or d.c. On a.c., the 6R7 oscillations and the 25L6 draws plate current only on the positive half-cycles. This principle effects a considerable saving in construction cost and in the size of the instrument.
After the parts required have been obtained, the first step in building the unit is to make the chassis, which consists simply of a piece of 16-gauge aluminum or steel bent and drilled in accordance with the plan shown. The front panel, which is included with the standard 6 by 6 cabinet, is drilled and a hole and grommet are placed in the rear panel. The oscillator coil is made by winding 100 turns of No.28 d.c.c. wire on a one-inch bakelite tube 3-1/4 inches long. A tap is brought out at the center of the winding. When the winding has been completed, the entire coil is dipped in a hot half-and-half mixture of beeswax and paraffin to keep the winding in place and exclude moisture. The sensitivity of the outfit is largely dependent upon the efficiency of the coil, so it should be carefully made. C1 is mounted on a small piece of 1/8-inch bakelite, because it must be insulated from the panel.
Wire the chassis first, starting with the heater circuits. Do not connect in the power cord until all wiring has been completed. The shield of the 25L6 is connected to its cathode, the shield of the 6E7 to the heater terminal which goes directly to the line. When all the main wiring has been completed, bring the power cord through the rear panel hole, and solder the three terminals to the terminal strip. The antenna wire is brought in through a rubber-grommeted hole in the top of the cabinet and connected to the stator or plate terminal of C1. A knot in the wire will relieve any strain on this connection. Stranded wire is preferred for the antenna.
The capacitances of C1 and C2 are largely dependent upon the length of antenna wire desired. If only 4 or 5 feet are required, C2 may be omitted. On the other hand, if the wire exceeds 15 feet, C2 will have to be larger than the value given. If the capacitance of C1 were made large (say 150 mmf. or more), C2 could of course be omitted but then the adjustment would become too critical.
The relay employed is a 3,000-ohm plug-in type of standard manufacture. It is a double-pole model and will handle a non-inductive load of 100 watts. It is somewhat more sensitive than is required and any other good relay of 1,000 ohms or more resistance should be suitable. The capacitor, C4, is shunted across the relay coil to prevent chattering. It may be advisable, in some cases, to put a 0.1 mf. paper capacitor across the relay contacts to stop sparking on heavy loads. It is better practice, however, to use a separate power relay when operating any but light loads.
In operation, the antenna wire is strung out well away from grounded metal objects and a 110-volt lamp is plugged into the outlet on the panel. When the tubes have heated, the lamp should light when the antenna wire is touched. If it lights without touching the wire, C2 should be screwed down until the lamp goes out. These adjustments should be made with C1 about one-half mashed. The panel may then screwed in on the cabinet and final adjustment made. This is done by gradually adjusting the vernier knob of the dial until the light remains lit when adjusting but goes out when the hand is removed from the dial. This may be carried to a point where the light will flash as soon as one approaches within 3 feet of the wire or instrument. It is better not to aim for such sensitivity, though, since it will vary somewhat with line voltage. A good, practical and stable point is about six to fifteen minutes or so for the instrument to acquire a stable point of operation owing to its sensitivity.
PARTS REQUIRED
C1 - Midget variable capacitor, 60 mmf. (see text)
C2 - Trimmer capacitor, 35 mmf. or more (see text)
C3 - Tubular paper capacitor, 0.05 mf. or more, 200 v.
C4 - Electrolytic capacitor, 10 mf., 100 V.
R1 - Carbon resistor, 5 meg, 1 watt
R2 - Carbon resistor, 1 meg., 1 watt
R4 - Wire-wound resistor, 5,000 ohms, 10 watts
R5 - Wire-wound resistor, 10,000 ohms, 10 watts
1 -- Steel cabinet 6x6x6 inches, front & back panels removable
1 -- Piece 16-gauge aluminum, for chassis 5-1/2 x 7-3/4 inches
1 -- Piece bakelite tubing, 1 inch diameter., 3-1/2 inches long
1 -- Piece bakelite, 1'1/2 x 1-1/2, 1/8 inch thick for C1
2 -- Octal wafer sockets, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes
1 -- 5-prong wafer socket, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes
1 -- Relay, Utah type RAC-110, 3,000 ohm
1 -- 6R7 metal tube
1 -- 25L6 metal tube
1 -- Kurz-Kasch vernier dial, small
1 -- Resistor line cord, 280 ohms (R3)
1 -- Single outlet receptacle
Miscellaneous screws, nuts, mounting bracket, and grommets.
- James P Hughes
Mr Negative 700S, shot at 400.
Agfa Optima 1535 Sensor.
Dev/scan by Analogue Wonderland, High Wycombe, UK.
My photographs are my private property and are copyright © by me, John Russell (aka “Zoom Lens”) and all my rights are reserved. Any use without permission is forbidden.
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The photographs in my set, "Weed Flower Micros," may appear to be close-ups of regular-sized flowers – they are not!
These are micro (macro) photos of tiny little flowers which bloom on ordinary weeds found in my lawn.
How tiny? The largest weed flower in the set is only, when measured across its widest part from petal tip to petal tip, 3/4" in diameter (19mm)!
Some of these miniscule flowers are so small that the entire blossom you are looking at is 1/4" in diameter (6mm)…or smaller! Again, that’s measuring from petal tip to petal tip across the widest part of the bloom!
The smallest part of a weed flower that I have managed to successfully shoot and achieve good detail in is a photo I made of a bud that measured LESS than 1/32" in diameter (0.7mm) across its widest part!
For size references I have included a photo of certain flowers and buds next to the head of an ordinary paper match, which dwarfs the blooms and buds.
It’s delightful to discover the beauty, complexity, and variety in something so small that it’s easily ignored, taken for granted, dismissed as a pest, or just downright difficult to see with the naked eye.
And it’s an even greater delight to realize that this incredible beauty has been growing wild in my lawn, year after year, right under my un-seeing eyes as I’ve repeatedly mown them down with my lawn mower, never realizing the unseen beauty that I was trampling under my feet.
I hope you enjoy viewing these as much as I do. I have a lot of fun making them for us to look at!
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See more of these incredible, tiny jewels in my set, "Weed Flower Micros:"
Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany
Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)
Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief
35 mm film Viewfinder camera
Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8
Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter
setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens
Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale
Focus range: 1-5m +inf.
Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet
setting : ring and scale on the lens
Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,
very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake
Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate
Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)
Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring
Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens
View finder: bright frame finder,
Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate
Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate
Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear
thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now
Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter
Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds
Self-timer: none
Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera
Film loading: special easy quick loading system
Body: metal
Tripod socket: 1/4''
serial no. LW 6837 BC
The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.
Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany
Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)
Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief
35 mm film Viewfinder camera
Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8
Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter
setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens
Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale
Focus range: 1-5m +inf.
Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet
setting : ring and scale on the lens
Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,
very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake
Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate
Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)
Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring
Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens
View finder: bright frame finder,
Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate
Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate
Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear
thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now
Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter
Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds
Self-timer: none
Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera
Film loading: special easy quick loading system
Body: metal
Tripod socket: 1/4''
serial no. LW 6837 BC
The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.
APS-C sensor swabs, fluid and dry brush with magnifying glass, cleaning the Sony α 77 ii sensor today.
Sony α 77 ii
DT 18-135mm ƒ/3.5-5.6 SAM
One of the ugly and probably ineffective chemical detection sensors deployed along the Mall. Along with other heavy-handed security measures like jersey barriers and planters, these continue to junk up our grand spaces, monuments and museums. It looks like a robot, perhaps a predecessor to R2D2? Photography is probably not encouraged.