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Made in ?? ; 1978 - ... . For 126 cassette . Simple viewfinder camera with fixed focus and aperture . Two shutter speeds . Socket for flipflash flashbulb bar .
Today i took the opportunity to use a Sony NEX-7 [Crop-Sensor] with a Sony-Zeiss Full-Frame 35mm 1.4f lens.
I have recently read that using a full-frame lens with a crop sensor may not produce better results than using a lens designed from a crop-sensor camera and in fact the images will be less sharp.
When starting out, many photographers choose to go with a crop body and invest in full frame lenses. This is usually recommended as a good approach as you can keep your lenses and swap out your body for something newer down the road, eventually leading to that high quality full frame sensor that you always wanted. However some experts, especially Tony Northrup, claim that starting out with the full frame lens and crop bodies does not provide you with the sharp images.
In my case I had a top end full frame camera [Canon 1DSIII] with a set of very expensive glass and I was not at all happy as the combination was way too heavy and totally unsuitable for street photography. About five years ago I decided that I needed a better solution and after using a Sony NEX-5 for about a year I decided to purchase a NEX-7 and switch from DSLR to Mirrorless [at the time that was a big gamble]. In theory it would be possible to use my Canon lenses with the NEX-7 but in reality it was not a workable solution. The NEX-7 featured a crop-sensor so I purchased a set of suitable Sony lenses and they were not expensive.
My reason for getting the NEX-7 and associated lenses was greatly reduced weight coupled with the fact that my equipment did not attract unwelcome attention.
The NEX-7 performed way beyond my expectations and I was really pleased and then towards the end of last year because the camera was giving problems at random I threw all logic out the window and took an ever bigger gamble by purchasing a Sony A7RMkII full frame mirrorless camera which is larger and heavier than the NEX-7.
To be honest, there is no comparison between the two cameras, the A7R is very much superior and while it is heavier it is actually easier to use. Also the Canon lenses actually work with the A7R but using the necessary adaptor was a pain and added weight. However the Canon lenses showed what the A7RMkII could do so I decided that maybe I should consider getting some native Sony FE prime lenses and then I discovered that they all were expensive and heavy [ unless I got manual focus lens such as the Loxia ]. Anyway I ended up with a set of primes [and no cash] but I now have serious weight issue especially when I travel.
I was planning to use the NEX-7 as a backup or when I travel but the crop-lenses are not very good so it would make no sense to leave my full-frame lenses behind so a possible solution would to bring along one of the FE primes [35mm 1.4f] but then I came across discussions online claiming that FE lenses underperform when used with a crop-sensor. Of course there is another issue in that the NEX-7 is at the end of its life and needs to be replaced by something like the A6300 but as I already said I have no spare cash.
Agfa Optima 200 Sensor with 2.8/42 Color-Apotar
Normally I want to avoid those cameras, where you are dependent on the Selenium cell of the exposure meter. If it is exhausted, you have lost. But for 1€ I couldn't resist.
It looks simple, but nevertheless it is quite an interesting camera. It was designed by Schlagheck & Schultes in 1968, perhaps their first work for Agfa and with the red-orange shutter button they established a unique identifying feature.
I still don't know if the camera is working correctly. If I point the camera towards bright light, I can observe that the diaphragm closes when releasing the shutter. But the red signal in the viewfinder, which indicates insufficient light, works only, when a slow film speed is set. So I opened the camera ( of course) and found a little untidiness, it bears no comparison with e.g. the clear design of contemporary Voigtländer cameras. And I found a big, broken plastic tooth wheel, which was mostly fallen into crumbs. I seemed to be part of a pallet, like in a clock work, but what for? The Optima has no self-timer and for forming shutter speeds it is just to coarse. The Optima can do shutter speeds from 1/30 to 1/200 s, and I can't distinguish them with my ears.
Furthermore I found a big pointer, with which the exposure can be adjusted in a wide range. Unfortunately the camera does not inform neither about the shutter speed nor about the f-stop, so you really need a service manual to do that adjustment.
For 1968 the appearance was modern, even futuristic. The design inside .. I have my doubts. It still uses a Selenium cell instead of an CdS cell, and it has aperture and shutter seperated. The Konica C35, also from 1968, used the new Copal mat B shutter, where the shutter blades also served as diaphragm. This was more innovative, cheaper and less "pedestrian". On the other hand the Optima features a flashmatic system, the aperture is coupled with the focus ring when a flash is used. Konica introduced that system not until 1971.
Olympus E-500 ( KODAK CCD sensor ) + Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 50mm f/2.0 Macro
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Over the next few weeks of February and March 2020, I made lots of trips to the VA hospital to see my doctor, my cardiologist, and more testing gear. I had ultrasound and CT scans of my heart followed by consultations on what they saw. They say that surgery will probably not be necessary but prescribed more meds. My doctor decided to get me a heart monitor to wear for several weeks. They showed me how to apply the sensors, hook up and turn on the gear, and take it off for wet personal hygiene and showers.
There are four sensors that are placed in specific places that are wired to a small RF transmitter on a lanyard around my neck. The transmitter talks to a modified cell phone that has to be within ten feet or so and sends the data to a medical monitoring station near Chicago. A couple of times a tech called me up to ask why my heartrate was up. The first time was probably due to a stubborn shit that needed urging. The second time I felt nothing and had no explanation. Ultimately, the three week test proved that I did have occasional rapid heartrate episodes at random times.
Besides having to take time to unhook every time I needed to get cleaned up and then hook up again, I had to keep the monitor phone at my bedside, in my purse, on a belt holster, or on the kitchen countertop, dinner table, vanity table, etc. If you click to magnify the photo, you can see icons on the phone that match white, red, green, or black sensor locations.
I was issued the monitor set in March just before the COVID lockdown. I remember hearing BBC reports of a mysterious virus in China during the Christmas 2019 holidays. By January the epidemic was in full swing in China, but the US was paralyzed in its response due to incompetence by Trumputin. I wondered how my VA hospital was going to react to what was obviously a pandemic that would strike Houston.
During my first morning in the hospital, I complimented the guy cleaning my room. I told him I noticed how clean everything was, and that his job would soon be part of a life or death situation. I said I spent as much time in the Army with a broom, mop, and toilet brush as with a rifle and machinegun. He was an Army vet, too and laughed. I said the Army makes a fetish out of cleanliness because in most wars, disease kills more people than battle. I wished him luck because I knew that in a few weeks, lots of patients would be dying, and he would have to clean up after them. I was right.
Harris County has lost more than 8900 people to COVID. Texas has lost more than 69,000 people mostly due to Governor Abbott's bungling and interference with local officials trying to enact public health measures like masking in public places. That's more than we lost in the Vietnam War and all of our useless oil wars in the Middle East combined. Nationwide, the US has lost more than 732,000 deaths due to the Trumputin Covfefe Virus pandemic because Trump and his fellow RepUGLUcan idiots didn't believe in science and wanted to kill as many poor and non-white people in the cities as possible. It is evident that "conservatism" is simply another word for BACKWARDNESS because they oppose all public health measure like mask mandates, prohibitions against indoor crowds, and mandatory vaccinations that could have controlled this disease many months ago.
CCD Sesnor - it is definitely different rendering to CMOS. I really do like this sensor and camera. It's the last CCD nikon sensor made in 2009 10 mpxls. Cost used $120 AUD ($80 USD)
This is the short-range planetary sensor dome. Above the bridge is the stellar array, while long-range sensors are arranged around the navigational deflector, pointing only in the direction of travel.
Kyiv, Ukraine.
Viewfinder camera: AGFA Optima 1035 Sensor
Lens: Agfa Solitar S 40mm f/2.8
Film: Kodak 400 Tmax
Filter: Rodenstock Yellow medium (8)
Film was scanned by "Mark" Studio Lab. in Chernivtsi. I am happy with the results.
To see the pictures taken with this camera click here.
Thank you for your comments and Fav's.
Agfa Optima 1535 Sensor • Agfa Paratronic Solitar S 1:2.8/40
Agfaphoto Vista 400 film in Tetenal Colortec C-41
Scanned with Plustek OpticFilm 120 at 1600dpi with Silverfast AI Studio
Route des Crêtes • Haut-Rhin • Alsace • France
ODC-Protection
We have these sensor lights around our home. They are very bright and go on if something gets close to the house.
Sandy Jungle & Miss Mina Tease as housewives
MUA: Nathalie Strömberg & Linda Härkin
Setup: FX400 with giant octa camera right. White panels camera left. Stripbox camera back left as kicker. Flash with grid for background camera right. Triggered with PW & sensors. Texture by Bittbox.
Sensors get dirty, it is impossible to change lens and keep them clean...
Mine has to be cleaned two times a year or more.
When you choose smaller apertures, the dirt spots show shamelessly. In one of my last photos, www.flickr.com/photos/henrique_silva/6600173785/, the aperture was f/36 and so every little tiny bit of dirt was showing, I spent a little time in Lightroom cleaning them, but there are still some in the picture... It was urgent to clean the 40D's sensor
Again I went trough this delicate process, I use Sensor Scope from Delkin Devices, it works well, it uses a combination of vacuum cleaner and moistened sensor wands to get the job done. Here is a before / after mosaic, it is not completly clean, but in fact there is a compromise between having the sensor damaged or have one or two dust spots...
If you want to know more about the process, I will be happy to answer!
Check your sensor for dust!
a - Create a new image in Photoshop or any other application and fill it with white
b - Set your camera to Aperture Priority, ISO100, and aperture to it's minimum f/22 - f/45
c - Set lens focus to Manual, and focus to closest possible
d - Shoot in raw or if in jpeg, turn off special image processing functions
e - Zoom in until the photoshop image fills your camera focusing screen
f - Shoot camera facing the white image on your monitor, and during this exposure, move your camera back and fourth being careful to not to point the lens outside of your white image. You can also zoom in in the image...
g - Process your image, adjust contrast, brightness, clarity, whatever, so that you get a clear view of the dirt spots!
h - Now you can go through the cleaning process - remember that what shows on the bottom of the image will be towards the top of the camera sensor...
i - Repeat the process from a to g and if you are happy with the result, then you are done; otherwise, repeat again... this time I had to make three swab cleanings. It is preferable to clean gently several times than applying to much force.
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Technical Info:
Camera: Canon EOS 40D
Lens: EF-S15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
Focal Length: 40 mm
Sensitivity: ISO 100
Exposure: 0,3 sec at f/22
Exposure bias: 0 EV
Exposure Program: Aperture priority
Metering Mode: Pattern
Flash: no flash
GPS
Coordinates:
Altitude:
©Henrique Silva, all rights reserved - no reproduction without prior permission
Agfa Optima 200 Sensor (second version).
German viewfinder camera produced c.1969.
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Removing the Bottom Cover. 2x Short crosshead screws on this side.
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WARNING :
This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !
Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany
Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)
Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief
35 mm film Viewfinder camera
Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8
Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter
setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens
Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale
Focus range: 1-5m +inf.
Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet
setting : ring and scale on the lens
Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,
very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake
Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate
Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)
Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring
Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens
View finder: bright frame finder,
Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate
Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate
Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear
thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now
Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter
Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds
Self-timer: none
Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera
Film loading: special easy quick loading system
Body: metal
Tripod socket: 1/4''
serial no. LW 6837 BC
The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.
Features
24MP APS-C Exmor™ CMOS sensor
BIONZ X™ engine for superb detail and noise reduction
A-mount interchangeable lens system
Dedicated AF sensor with 79 AF points, 15 cross points
Translucent Mirror Technology for 8fps shooting
List Price: unavailable
...
My latest acquisition. Very nice compact camera. Large, bright viewfinder.
The Agfa Optima sensor electronic was identical to the Agfa Optima 535 Sensor electronic and — like the Agfa Optima sensor Flash - produced in Portugal.
Manufactured in 1982.
Lens: Agfa Solitar 40mm / 1:2.8
Shutter: 1/30 sec. to 1/500
Aperture range: 2.8 to 22
Dimensions: 104 × 70 × 56 mm
Weight: 265 g
Batteries: 3 x alkaline / silver oxide 625G
Information retrieved from this website (in German), which also features beautiful photos of all the 1970s Agfa Optima line.
Another good read (in English) is the Agfa Optima 1535 page on Alfred's Camera Page.
I recently added a 1-wire thermometer network, using the 1-wire USB adapter (DS9490R), temperature sensors (DS18S20), speaker wire, and audio plugs, jacks, and splitters.
A smaller version of this graph is shown on my Insteon thermostat web control page.
The temperature sensors seem to be very accurate (well, precise, at least). They're digital, so no calibration required (they are factory calibrated, I assume). And with 1-wire technology, you can string lots of them on one common data line (and ground, so it's actually a 2-wire system, but who's counting).
The sensor for the blue graph is run up inside one of the A/C vents, so I can get a direct indication of the A/C output. As you can see, it does about 1-2 cycles per hour. (I bumped the thermostat up from 78 to 80 around 10am.)
The outside sensor is hanging out the window by my computer, in the shade of the bushes and the big tree out front, so I don't think direct sunlight is affecting it much in the afternoons.
Oh, and this image is from a custom-made graphing page from the temperature logs using PHP and GD. Temperature logging is done by digitemp every 15 seconds.
Seen on Flickr EXPLORE - # 376 - September 22, 2017, click here
Green trees on a suburban street in the morning sunlight. This picture is straight out from the camera, no processing except darken a the brightness a bit. What I call the magic of the CCD Sensor, no longer used in digital cameras.
Made with the Pentax Optio Z-10 point and shoot.
I have had some dust stuck on my sensor since getting my A7III and sadly the rocket blower couldn't remove it. I usually pay to get my sensor cleaned but decided to give cleaning it myself a try and I'm glad I did.
After great demand and lots of encouragement from friend photographers, the result of this very work intensive project is finally available. Please check your respective amazon online store.
The paperback version is recommended over the kindle version
Content:
This book is unique, in that it focuses on greatly improving photography skills, both for amateurs and professionals, by understanding the image sensor & camera operation and the impact of parameters changes on image quality.
Are you one of those photographers who continuously fights excessive image noise when shooting birds-in-flight, a photographer who would like to understand why certain camera and lens settings do a great job and others don’t, or, are you a photographer who fails in creating top quality images, independent of the circumstances? Then stop looking, because you have found your comprehensively written expert guide, created by image sensor specialist George F. Vittman, PhD, who has worked with world-renowned specialists in the field since the mid-1980ies, and who is also an outstanding and award-winning photographer.
Without going into too much technical detail, this book introduces the basic image sensor operation, and it devotes a large fraction to the study of visible image noise. What is noise caused by, what is its dependence on the 3 camera exposure parameters, shutter time, lens aperture and ISO-value, how does post-processing affect noise, and most importantly, how can the image noise be minimized under different circumstances. Besides image noise, this book also reveals little known secrets regarding auto-focus, camera operation and optics, and it gives image sensor based recommendations for a camera choice in the different fields of photography.
Agfa Optima 200 Sensor (second version).
German viewfinder camera produced c.1969.
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A view on the Body with the Meter Unit removed.
There is a (copper?) Disk there (see red arrow).
Probably only to protect the underside of the Meter. Maybe also against EM interference ??
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WARNING :
This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !
Shot sith RED Epic W with Helium 8K sensor and Sigma 50mm Cinema T:1,5
you can see the 4K video on YouTube here : youtu.be/f9FWkOp7Woo
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Light Time Dimension Theory: The Foundational Physics Unifying Einstein's Relativity and Quantum Mechanics: A Simple, Illustrated Introduction to the Unifying Physical Reality of the Fourth Expanding Dimensionsion dx4/dt=ic !: geni.us/Fa1Q
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Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness
Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun
Conspiring with him how to load and bless
With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eves run;
To bend with apples the moss'd cottage-trees,
And fill all fruit with ripeness to the core;
To swell the gourd, and plump the hazel shells
With a sweet kernel; to set budding more,
And still more, later flowers for the bees,
Until they think warm days will never cease,
For Summer has o'er-brimm'd their clammy cells. --To Autumn. by John Keats
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"Magic Wire" is so called because of detecting proximity to antenna.
THE MAGIC WIRE
As shown in the diagram, the input tube is a type 6R7 duo-diode triode. The triode section forms the oscillator, in conjunction with the coil L1 which is center-tapped to the cathode. When the triode section is oscillating, the r.f. voltage developed from cathode to ground is impressed on the diode section, causing current to flow through R2 and making the diode plates negative with respect to ground. The control grid of the 25L6 power tube is connected to the diode plates of the 6R7 and consequently a negative bias is placed on the grid which reduces its plate current to a very low value. As soon as the triode ceases to oscillate, there is no longer any r.f. voltage applied to the diodes, the voltage drops and the 25L6 draws high plate current, causing the relay to operate.
It will be noted that no rectifier tube or filler circuit is required in this design, yet the instrument functions on either a.c. or d.c. On a.c., the 6R7 oscillations and the 25L6 draws plate current only on the positive half-cycles. This principle effects a considerable saving in construction cost and in the size of the instrument.
After the parts required have been obtained, the first step in building the unit is to make the chassis, which consists simply of a piece of 16-gauge aluminum or steel bent and drilled in accordance with the plan shown. The front panel, which is included with the standard 6 by 6 cabinet, is drilled and a hole and grommet are placed in the rear panel. The oscillator coil is made by winding 100 turns of No.28 d.c.c. wire on a one-inch bakelite tube 3-1/4 inches long. A tap is brought out at the center of the winding. When the winding has been completed, the entire coil is dipped in a hot half-and-half mixture of beeswax and paraffin to keep the winding in place and exclude moisture. The sensitivity of the outfit is largely dependent upon the efficiency of the coil, so it should be carefully made. C1 is mounted on a small piece of 1/8-inch bakelite, because it must be insulated from the panel.
Wire the chassis first, starting with the heater circuits. Do not connect in the power cord until all wiring has been completed. The shield of the 25L6 is connected to its cathode, the shield of the 6E7 to the heater terminal which goes directly to the line. When all the main wiring has been completed, bring the power cord through the rear panel hole, and solder the three terminals to the terminal strip. The antenna wire is brought in through a rubber-grommeted hole in the top of the cabinet and connected to the stator or plate terminal of C1. A knot in the wire will relieve any strain on this connection. Stranded wire is preferred for the antenna.
The capacitances of C1 and C2 are largely dependent upon the length of antenna wire desired. If only 4 or 5 feet are required, C2 may be omitted. On the other hand, if the wire exceeds 15 feet, C2 will have to be larger than the value given. If the capacitance of C1 were made large (say 150 mmf. or more), C2 could of course be omitted but then the adjustment would become too critical.
The relay employed is a 3,000-ohm plug-in type of standard manufacture. It is a double-pole model and will handle a non-inductive load of 100 watts. It is somewhat more sensitive than is required and any other good relay of 1,000 ohms or more resistance should be suitable. The capacitor, C4, is shunted across the relay coil to prevent chattering. It may be advisable, in some cases, to put a 0.1 mf. paper capacitor across the relay contacts to stop sparking on heavy loads. It is better practice, however, to use a separate power relay when operating any but light loads.
In operation, the antenna wire is strung out well away from grounded metal objects and a 110-volt lamp is plugged into the outlet on the panel. When the tubes have heated, the lamp should light when the antenna wire is touched. If it lights without touching the wire, C2 should be screwed down until the lamp goes out. These adjustments should be made with C1 about one-half mashed. The panel may then screwed in on the cabinet and final adjustment made. This is done by gradually adjusting the vernier knob of the dial until the light remains lit when adjusting but goes out when the hand is removed from the dial. This may be carried to a point where the light will flash as soon as one approaches within 3 feet of the wire or instrument. It is better not to aim for such sensitivity, though, since it will vary somewhat with line voltage. A good, practical and stable point is about six to fifteen minutes or so for the instrument to acquire a stable point of operation owing to its sensitivity.
PARTS REQUIRED
C1 - Midget variable capacitor, 60 mmf. (see text)
C2 - Trimmer capacitor, 35 mmf. or more (see text)
C3 - Tubular paper capacitor, 0.05 mf. or more, 200 v.
C4 - Electrolytic capacitor, 10 mf., 100 V.
R1 - Carbon resistor, 5 meg, 1 watt
R2 - Carbon resistor, 1 meg., 1 watt
R4 - Wire-wound resistor, 5,000 ohms, 10 watts
R5 - Wire-wound resistor, 10,000 ohms, 10 watts
1 -- Steel cabinet 6x6x6 inches, front & back panels removable
1 -- Piece 16-gauge aluminum, for chassis 5-1/2 x 7-3/4 inches
1 -- Piece bakelite tubing, 1 inch diameter., 3-1/2 inches long
1 -- Piece bakelite, 1'1/2 x 1-1/2, 1/8 inch thick for C1
2 -- Octal wafer sockets, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes
1 -- 5-prong wafer socket, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes
1 -- Relay, Utah type RAC-110, 3,000 ohm
1 -- 6R7 metal tube
1 -- 25L6 metal tube
1 -- Kurz-Kasch vernier dial, small
1 -- Resistor line cord, 280 ohms (R3)
1 -- Single outlet receptacle
Miscellaneous screws, nuts, mounting bracket, and grommets.
- James P Hughes
Camera introduced in 1971 ; made in Germany . For the 126 cassette. Magicube flash socket .Of the 3 copies that I have , I noticed a difference in the place of the eye for the carrying strap , and a difference in text indicating the film in the compartment .
Olympus E-500 ( KODAK CCD sensor ) + Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 50mm f/2.0 Macro
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA