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eos 500d, tamron 17-50/2.8

CdS exsposure meter

Ultra Sensitive 1º Light-Acceptance Angle

M240 / 50 Summilux

 

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Jim

 

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"Magic Wire" is so called because of detecting proximity to antenna.

 

THE MAGIC WIRE

 

As shown in the diagram, the input tube is a type 6R7 duo-diode triode. The triode section forms the oscillator, in conjunction with the coil L1 which is center-tapped to the cathode. When the triode section is oscillating, the r.f. voltage developed from cathode to ground is impressed on the diode section, causing current to flow through R2 and making the diode plates negative with respect to ground. The control grid of the 25L6 power tube is connected to the diode plates of the 6R7 and consequently a negative bias is placed on the grid which reduces its plate current to a very low value. As soon as the triode ceases to oscillate, there is no longer any r.f. voltage applied to the diodes, the voltage drops and the 25L6 draws high plate current, causing the relay to operate.

 

It will be noted that no rectifier tube or filler circuit is required in this design, yet the instrument functions on either a.c. or d.c. On a.c., the 6R7 oscillations and the 25L6 draws plate current only on the positive half-cycles. This principle effects a considerable saving in construction cost and in the size of the instrument.

 

After the parts required have been obtained, the first step in building the unit is to make the chassis, which consists simply of a piece of 16-gauge aluminum or steel bent and drilled in accordance with the plan shown. The front panel, which is included with the standard 6 by 6 cabinet, is drilled and a hole and grommet are placed in the rear panel. The oscillator coil is made by winding 100 turns of No.28 d.c.c. wire on a one-inch bakelite tube 3-1/4 inches long. A tap is brought out at the center of the winding. When the winding has been completed, the entire coil is dipped in a hot half-and-half mixture of beeswax and paraffin to keep the winding in place and exclude moisture. The sensitivity of the outfit is largely dependent upon the efficiency of the coil, so it should be carefully made. C1 is mounted on a small piece of 1/8-inch bakelite, because it must be insulated from the panel.

 

Wire the chassis first, starting with the heater circuits. Do not connect in the power cord until all wiring has been completed. The shield of the 25L6 is connected to its cathode, the shield of the 6E7 to the heater terminal which goes directly to the line. When all the main wiring has been completed, bring the power cord through the rear panel hole, and solder the three terminals to the terminal strip. The antenna wire is brought in through a rubber-grommeted hole in the top of the cabinet and connected to the stator or plate terminal of C1. A knot in the wire will relieve any strain on this connection. Stranded wire is preferred for the antenna.

 

The capacitances of C1 and C2 are largely dependent upon the length of antenna wire desired. If only 4 or 5 feet are required, C2 may be omitted. On the other hand, if the wire exceeds 15 feet, C2 will have to be larger than the value given. If the capacitance of C1 were made large (say 150 mmf. or more), C2 could of course be omitted but then the adjustment would become too critical.

 

The relay employed is a 3,000-ohm plug-in type of standard manufacture. It is a double-pole model and will handle a non-inductive load of 100 watts. It is somewhat more sensitive than is required and any other good relay of 1,000 ohms or more resistance should be suitable. The capacitor, C4, is shunted across the relay coil to prevent chattering. It may be advisable, in some cases, to put a 0.1 mf. paper capacitor across the relay contacts to stop sparking on heavy loads. It is better practice, however, to use a separate power relay when operating any but light loads.

 

In operation, the antenna wire is strung out well away from grounded metal objects and a 110-volt lamp is plugged into the outlet on the panel. When the tubes have heated, the lamp should light when the antenna wire is touched. If it lights without touching the wire, C2 should be screwed down until the lamp goes out. These adjustments should be made with C1 about one-half mashed. The panel may then screwed in on the cabinet and final adjustment made. This is done by gradually adjusting the vernier knob of the dial until the light remains lit when adjusting but goes out when the hand is removed from the dial. This may be carried to a point where the light will flash as soon as one approaches within 3 feet of the wire or instrument. It is better not to aim for such sensitivity, though, since it will vary somewhat with line voltage. A good, practical and stable point is about six to fifteen minutes or so for the instrument to acquire a stable point of operation owing to its sensitivity.

 

PARTS REQUIRED

C1 - Midget variable capacitor, 60 mmf. (see text)

C2 - Trimmer capacitor, 35 mmf. or more (see text)

C3 - Tubular paper capacitor, 0.05 mf. or more, 200 v.

C4 - Electrolytic capacitor, 10 mf., 100 V.

R1 - Carbon resistor, 5 meg, 1 watt

R2 - Carbon resistor, 1 meg., 1 watt

R4 - Wire-wound resistor, 5,000 ohms, 10 watts

R5 - Wire-wound resistor, 10,000 ohms, 10 watts

1 -- Steel cabinet 6x6x6 inches, front & back panels removable

1 -- Piece 16-gauge aluminum, for chassis 5-1/2 x 7-3/4 inches

1 -- Piece bakelite tubing, 1 inch diameter., 3-1/2 inches long

1 -- Piece bakelite, 1'1/2 x 1-1/2, 1/8 inch thick for C1

2 -- Octal wafer sockets, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes

1 -- 5-prong wafer socket, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes

1 -- Relay, Utah type RAC-110, 3,000 ohm

1 -- 6R7 metal tube

1 -- 25L6 metal tube

1 -- Kurz-Kasch vernier dial, small

1 -- Resistor line cord, 280 ohms (R3)

1 -- Single outlet receptacle

Miscellaneous screws, nuts, mounting bracket, and grommets.

 

- James P Hughes

 

After great demand and lots of encouragement from friend photographers, the result of this very work intensive project is finally available. Please check your respective amazon online store.

 

The paperback version is recommended over the kindle version

 

Content:

This book is unique, in that it focuses on greatly improving photography skills, both for amateurs and professionals, by understanding the image sensor & camera operation and the impact of parameters changes on image quality.

Are you one of those photographers who continuously fights excessive image noise when shooting birds-in-flight, a photographer who would like to understand why certain camera and lens settings do a great job and others don’t, or, are you a photographer who fails in creating top quality images, independent of the circumstances? Then stop looking, because you have found your comprehensively written expert guide, created by image sensor specialist George F. Vittman, PhD, who has worked with world-renowned specialists in the field since the mid-1980ies, and who is also an outstanding and award-winning photographer.

Without going into too much technical detail, this book introduces the basic image sensor operation, and it devotes a large fraction to the study of visible image noise. What is noise caused by, what is its dependence on the 3 camera exposure parameters, shutter time, lens aperture and ISO-value, how does post-processing affect noise, and most importantly, how can the image noise be minimized under different circumstances. Besides image noise, this book also reveals little known secrets regarding auto-focus, camera operation and optics, and it gives image sensor based recommendations for a camera choice in the different fields of photography.

 

Toronto, Ontario, fern stalks in our back garden, winter.

El sensor que está en segundo plano es inductivo y detecta cuando el piñón de ataque del prelanzador está en reposo (LED verde) y cuando está accionado (LED rojo). Este único LED está encima del panel de instrumentos al lado del cuenta revoluciones del rotor y se ilumina en verde o rojo según el sensor detecta o no el piñón de ataque. Es un elemento que nos indica que una vez prelanzado, el piñón a descendido completamente y se puede iniciar el despegue al pasar de color rojo a color verde.

- Taken at 1:49 PM on June 07, 2009 - uploaded by ShoZu http://mobypicture.com/?auels6

I will be using this camera in week 457 of my 52 film cameras in 52 weeks project:

52cameras.blogspot.com/

www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/collections/72157623113584240

One of my Fuji X-Pro1 bodies is broken. It will power up, take a few shots, and then shut down. When I try to turn it on, it sometimes gives a message that says to turn the camera off and try turning it on again. I have also noticed a large, diffuse, white defect in the upper right quadrant of the sensor.

 

I later concluded that I had damaged my sensor while shooting a solar eclipse. Rather than repairing the camera, I decided to replace it with a Fuji X-Pro2.

Taken with a motion sensor camera on a tree

948 seconds 3 lenses 1 exposure no edits.

Near vaped myself to death for the lasers 💩😂

The camouflaged sensor dish is reading your thoughts....

Snapped a few shots with the EPL-5 today, here's one of my broken sensor.. No clue as to how it happened. Read a similar story on mu-43.com a few months back, apparently it was covered under warranty. We shall see!

 

The dirt is actually just some spit or something from the numerous people interested at the shop I got the camera at. They of course haven't seen this happen yet.

Scintillating glass optical fibers are the first viable medium for large-area, solid-state, thermal neutron sensors that have applications in national security, medicine, and materials research. Here, ultraviolet-induced fluorescence mimics scintillation.

 

For more information, visit www.pnl.gov/news/

 

Terms of Use: Our images are freely and publicly available for use with the credit line, "Courtesy of Pacific Northwest National Laboratory." Please use provided caption information for use in appropriate context.

agfa optima sensor 1035 ektar 100

The Flickr Lounge-Its a Bargain

 

I bought this washer over 10 years ago and it is still working perfectly! It wasn't super expensive since I got it in New Mexico where the prices are much lower than in New York state. It works much like a front-loading model in that it has no agitator and it also has a water sensor so I never uses more water than it needs.

Made in Germany ; 1974 - ... . For the 110 cartridge . With magicube socket and extender .

2019 Ram 1500 (new body) with Precision Back-up Sensor Guard.

Part of my Serious Pictures from a Small Camera series. Just trying out a new coat pocket camera - This is a view of Cat Craig off of Skyreburn

Car parking sensors at Sainsburys in Halifax.

Realizada con cámara Samsung EX1 sensor CCD

Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany

Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)

Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief

35 mm film Viewfinder camera

Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8

Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter

setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens

Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale

Focus range: 1-5m +inf.

Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet

setting : ring and scale on the lens

Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,

very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake

Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate

Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)

Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring

Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens

View finder: bright frame finder,

Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate

Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate

Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear

thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now

Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter

Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds

Self-timer: none

Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera

Film loading: special easy quick loading system

Body: metal

Tripod socket: 1/4''

serial no. LW 6837 BC

The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.

Photos by the camera

From my daughter's lens-less smashed camera.

A Sandia sensor for detecting toxic gases is now smaller, faster and more reliable.

 

Its performance sets it up for integration in a highly sensitive portable system for detecting chemical weapons. Better miniature sensors can also rapidly detect airborne toxins where they occur, providing key information to help emergency personnel respond safely and effectively to an incident.

 

“With rapid analysis, operators can learn about an exposure to toxic gases in time for people to take personal precautions, evacuate an area and mitigate potential damage,” said analytical chemist Joshua Whiting.

 

Learn more at bit.ly/2KHF6Wq.

 

Photo by Randy Montoya

 

Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany

Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)

Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief

35 mm film Viewfinder camera

Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8

Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter

setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens

Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale

Focus range: 1-5m +inf.

Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet

setting : ring and scale on the lens

Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,

very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake

Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate

Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)

Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring

Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens

View finder: bright frame finder,

Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate

Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate

Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear

thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now

Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter

Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds

Self-timer: none

Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera

Film loading: special easy quick loading system

Body: metal

Tripod socket: 1/4''

serial no. LW 6837 BC

The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.

Photos by the camera

2019 Ram 1500 (new body) with Precision Back-up Sensor Guard.

M240 / 50 Summilux

 

Thank you for visiting and viewing.

Jim

 

www.jimservies.com

mylife&yours Blog

facebook

Google+

Twitter

500px

 

No Usage Authorized Without Prior Written Permission.

 

©2015 Jim Servies Photography

All Rights Reserved.

   

Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany

Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)

Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief

35 mm film Viewfinder camera

Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8

Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter

setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens

Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale

Focus range: 1-5m +inf.

Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet

setting : ring and scale on the lens

Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,

very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake

Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate

Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)

Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring

Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens

View finder: bright frame finder,

Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate

Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate

Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear

thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now

Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter

Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds

Self-timer: none

Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera

Film loading: special easy quick loading system

Body: metal

Tripod socket: 1/4''

serial no. LW 6837 BC

The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.

Photos by the camera

The central sensor node allows for visual/infrared sighting, as well as a laser designator for both the Longbolt missiles and for potential air support. The radar system is actually quite powerful, representing a new generation detection.

'Scuse the handwriting, bro. ;)

 

A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.

Sensors for guidane, navigation, control and positioning of the MASCOT lander.

 

Read more about MACOTs thrilling mission into the unknown here: www.dlr.de/dlr/en/desktopdefault.aspx/tabid-10081/151_read-30050/

 

Credit: DLR (CC-BY 3.0)

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