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April 12, 2014: Above ground motion-sensing radar survelliance system at Titan Missile Museum south of Tucson, Arizona.
24-09-24 - JHC visita - Circuito Sensorial - Centro de Atendimento e Cuidados ao Servidor Púbico - CAC
Working in a neo noir style.
Technically I've found that moving Zone 6 as Sony sensors record it and creating an input correction curve post-demosaic that lowers it to Zone 5 sets the kind of deep tones I'm looking for.
As a side note: Sony sensors are very very quiet in the shadow regions. There is so much usable information deep into the -EV range.
When "testers" and commenters across the internet make claims about dynamic range I see what they report to be 1 to 2 stops narrower dynamic range than what I see. The difference is that I rise the mid-tones in my Digital Zone System luminosity curves to match 0EV to Zone 5, which, it turns out, usefully raises the shadows down to 020202hex - where I take things to be pure black (I can't see any difference between 000000hex and 0202020hex on my displays).
My Sony A7 can record 14.5EV to 15EV of usable f-stop range. Yes. It's true. Same with an A6300 that I have. The A6000, NEX-7, NEX-5T, and A5000 all record just about 14EV dynamic range.
The A7RII I recently picked up looks like it's good for between 14EV and 14.5EV. This surprised me as I thought backside illumination might set a more solid base noise level. Perhaps it's all those pixels or the way they set the analog to digital converters?
In any event, I would really like to try a Sony A7S (original model) to see how it does. Anyone have one and have a few minutes to record some RAW data for me? Or loan me for 10 minutes so I could run my input correction curve calculations? These cameras are getting cheap enough that I might even be able to buy a used copy myself. I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for one.
Today our robotics class learned about Gyro sensors which helped them with their challenge project which was to make the robot follow an exact path. In the afternoon we learned about variables and made our robots play a game of soccer! By the end of the day we combined what we knew about Gyro Sensors and Variables to do a Steering Wheel project.
For Sensor (club culture magazine) long time ago. Color backgrounds by Sabob www.flickr.com/photos/7940175@N07/
I sure think so LMAO
I have an Artic Butterfly winging its way to me as we speak.
I have been debating having a pro clean it but everyone around here has not been able to give me a solid answer how long it will take in their shops.
I talked to 3 camera shops and the store I bought it at all were nebulouis as far as time estimates.
One place advised me to send it back to Canon.
So I decided that since most want $75 to clean the sensor in the XTi,
I could save a lot by just doing it myself
the Artic Butterfly costs $140+ delivered.
Hopefully that will eliminate most the crap in this pic.
Otherwise I'll start getting into wet cleaning too
These sensors can be used to sense motion in a covered area (defined by each sensor). These motion detector sensors need power and generally provide a Normally Open (NO) or Normally Closed (NC) NO/NC signal or a 12VDC signal to activate a circuit as simple as an alarm bell or alert chime when...
Yesterday was Sensor cleaning day for me. Here's the kit I use.
Process:
1) Take a picture of "blue sky" I used my 60mm micro lens at f/32 and 1/80 of a sec. Very small aperture let's you see contamination on the sensor you might not normally find.
2) Printed a paper copy of the sky photo and circled 14 items that look like dust / stickies on the sensor.
3) Mounted the camera on my tripod facing down with the mirror locked up for cleaning.
4) Used the blower to clean any loose dust out of the camera and hopefully off the sensor.
5) Turned the print to orient as I'm working on the sensor. (Upside down and flipped horizontally.) Put on the "headlight" to look up at the sensor.
6) Used the Len's pen and then Sensorklear to target the know dirt on the sensor.
7) Took another picture and checked to see if dirt gone. My first image had 14 spots noted. After the first cleaning I had removed 10. I cleaned again and removed 2 more. There are still 2 spots, but they are near corners and don't show up in normal exposure setttings.
The air is alive with dirt / dust / stickies. If you have a DSLR and change lenses this will be a problem sooner or later. I'm careful to keep the camera upside down when I change lenses, but still every 6 months or so I go through this. Aloha!
I picked up a second time my old Konica-Minolta Dynax 5D (an APS-C DSLR see details below) for an extra tour of the warm-humid tropical green houses at the Botanical Garden of Lyon, France.
This time I fitted to the camera its dedicated macro lens Sigma 1:2.8 DG f=50mm (equivalent to 75mm full-frame 24X36 format) . For this tour, I used a CF card 16GB giving almost unlimited number of possible RAW files (1694 !) .
I also used a fix 200 ISO sensor sensitivity. I had in mind to limit the session to 36 images as a regular 35mm film cartridge, but I finally did about 60 … The lens was equipped with a generic Anti-UV protective 55mm filter and its original Sigma shade hood.
Whenever necessary in low-light conditions, I used the build-in small flashlight (NG 12 at 100 ISO) to complement the ambient light and to restore vivid colors. The camera was used either in the manual « M » mode or the aperture-priority « A » automated mode.
Serres Tropicales Arrides Mexique-Madagascar, December 16, 2024
Jardin Botanique de Lyon
Parc de la Tête d’Or
69006 Lyon
France
After the session, the RAW files were transferred to the computer using a USB multi-memory cards reader and processed in the latest version of Adode Lightroom Classic (LrC version 14.1.1) that uses the external module Adobe Camera Raw version 17.0.1 for the RAW files development. The files were then processed as usual using the regular functions of Lightroom. They are presented either as printed files with frame or the full-size JPEG's.
About the camera :
I bought my Konica-Minolta Dynax 5D (an APS-C DSLR see details below) brand-new in the winter 2005-2006 after using intensively a Minolta Dimage 7 that was a futuristic early mirrorless digital camera. I got the camera as a bundle kit including a AF DT Zoom 18-70 mm / f3.5-5.6 (D) lens, a tele zoom lens AF 75-300 mm / f4.5-5.6 (D) lens, and a very nice macro lens Sigma 1:2.8 f=50mm DG that I used principally for documenting small horological objects.
The Konica Minolta Dynax 5D is a Digital SLR camera announced by Konica Minolta on July 15, 2005. It is also known as Maxxum 5D in the USA and (Alpha) αSweet Digital in Japan. It became available from September 2005 and was bundled with the AF DT Zoom 18-70 mm / f4.5-5.6 (D) lens.
The camera features a 6 megapixel CCD sensor. Image files are created at a maximum resolution of 3008 x 2000 pixels and recorded in JPEG (STD, Fine, EX-fine), RAW and RAW+JPEG formats. It uses CompactFlash for storage. The back has a 115,000 2.5" TFT color display.
Main differences between the 7D and the 5D are:
* Less buttons and dials
* Fibre plastic body, as opposed to a magnesium alloy on the 7D, camera is almost 200 g lighter (970g in workin order with the AF DT Zoom 18-70 mm)
* White balance bracketing
* Newly added colour modes, including black and white
The Konica-Minolta was the last DSLR camera engineering before the cession to Sony of the whole photo camera activities of the company.
My brother-in-law and I went out this evening and got this photo. This is out in front of out place on the 16th hole of the golf course.
For Sensor (club culture magazine) long time ago. Color backgrounds by Sabob www.flickr.com/photos/7940175@N07/