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ARM's North Slope of Alaska (NSA) atmospheric observatory is providing data about cloud and radiative processes at high latitudes. Scientists use NSA data to improve how these processes are represented in earth system models.
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Disused "Sensor Test Stand" decaying away in a military equipment junkyard in San Antonio, Texas.
The words "SENSOR TEST STAND" had been stenciled in the top left corner of this unit, and there was a word in front of it, but it had weathered to the point where I couldn't read it for certain, but I think it said "GASKET", which might make sense with the pressure gauges and what not on the unit.
Terrible composition, I know...but I was in a hurry, and this was a one-shot deal.
See an aerial view of this junkyard to get an idea of the size.
Night, full moon, xenon flashlight.
Shot with a G7, macro mode, looking through the lens of the Sensor Klear Loupe at my 40D's sensor. The magnifying glass plus LEDs provides a clear view of the sensor and any dust on it.
Cheyenne linemen install an Electric Power Research Institute sensor on a 230-kV H-frame structure’s overhead groundwire to test for wind-induced vibrations, otherwise known as Aeolian vibrations. Linemen and engineers believe these vibrations may be the cause of unusual damage on the four-year-old line. (Photo by Ed Hunt)
View large for the full horror.
I decided to clean my sensor last night.
I'd gotten a bit tired of cloning out the same dust spots from my photos taken over the last few months.
I use the Arctic Butterfly from Visible Dust to clean, I'd only used it once before but I was very impressed with it.
So, I took the lens off and set the camera to Sensor Cleaning mode.
After the first clean most of the dust had gone, but a few small smears had appeared.
I decided I'd better clean it again as smears would be a lot harder to clone out than the odd spot.
I did it again, put the lens back on, took a test shot and nearly died - I'd somehow managed to seriously gunge up my sensor.
I cleaned it about 3 times more and it still wouldn't go away.
I then decided to do some googling around to see what online advice I could find.
Micheal Reichmann's site is actually the number one hit for "Arctic Butterfly" on Google, and it contains this gem:
"7: If there is a stubborn particle, note where in the frame it is, and then with the shutter open in cleaning mode, shine a flashlight into the mirror housing at an oblique angle. You should be able to see it. Just remember that the location will be upside down from where you saw it on the monitor.
8: Try using the Butterfly again, this time concentrating on the spot. If this doesn't work, you'll need more sophisticated cleaning tools, such as the swabs and fluids available from VisibleDust."
Following the advice I brushed the sensor back and forth on the problem spots, which were easily visible.
I then re-attached the lens, took the test shot and hey presto, clean!
Not sure what I did wrong to get all that gunk on there, I just hope I can go another 6 months or so without having to clean it again.
IR sensor voor Fischertechnik kogelbaan. De IR sensor kan werken op 5V en op 9V. Hij is niet gevoeilig voor omgevings licht. Zelfs getest in volle zon blijft hij correct werken. Het stroomverbruik door de IR diode is ongeveer 9mA en de load voor de Phototransistor is 5 mA. Burst van kogels worden mooi verwerkt. Ook getest met de TXT Controller Fischertechnik en 9V voeding.
3D files:
Sandia National Laboratory researchers checks tiny sensors in a test fixture, where he exposes them to different environments and measures their response to see how they perform.
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An example of how a sensor clean should be. This is from a Canon 1D mk2N.
On the left, a dirty sensor. After a thorough clean the image to the right shows that it was successful.
View large to see it properly.
had my sensor cleaned by a canon authorized repair shop twice last month, this is how it looks now :-(
How to monitor system temperature on Linux
If you would like to use this photo, be sure to place a proper attribution linking to xmodulo.com
IR sensor voor Fischertechnik kogelbaan. De IR sensor kan werken op 5V en op 9V. Hij is niet gevoeilig voor omgevings licht. Zelfs getest in volle zon blijft hij correct werken. Het stroomverbruik door de IR diode is ongeveer 9mA en de load voor de Phototransistor is 5 mA. Burst van kogels worden mooi verwerkt. Ook getest met de TXT Controller Fischertechnik en 9V voeding.
3D files:
First small stack of the samsung KC73129 chip with the mitutoyo 10x lens and the new led module with 12 x power cree leds.
The lichting time is now shorter, 3ms, and the resolution is better. I hope to be ready end this year with the hole unit and the new controlbox.
This is a 100% crop from the Nikon D7100.
Left side with the old setup, right side with the new setup.
It's been awhile since I've been able to work on any fun projects but this weekend I dug an old Raspberry Pi out of the junk box. Flashed the OS. Adding an ADC hat and non-invasive current sensor to monitor 240v power usage by the Bitcoin miners
Camera sensor.. this is just a few millimeters across.
Taken with a reversed 50mm prime lens, taped securely to a filter adapter attached to my Canon S70.
My phone died recently. I think the charging circuit quit working, because it would recognize being plugged into power, but the battery never charged. It has since been replaced.
This is an F-4G of the 90th Tactical Fighter Squadron, Clark AB, Phillipines taken in the early 80s. I was a navigator on this airplane.
I will be using this camera in week 71 of my 52 film cameras in 52 weeks project:
www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/collections/72157623113584240
The first year is documented in this book:
The Legacy Survey of Space and Time (LSST) camera team has installed the first of 21 science rafts -- 3-by-3 arrays of state-of-the-art imaging sensors. Together they'll take unprecedented 3,200-megapixel images of the night sky, which, over time, will produce the world's largest astrophysical movie.
Photo: Farrin Abbott / SLAC National Accelerator Laboratory
Combined acidity/chloride sensor complete with integrated wireless module, allowing the sensor output to be read out on a remote unit. Further size reductions are possible, leading to sweat sensors that are small enough to be integrated into an on-body patch as part of a body area network (BAN), allowing real-time monitoring of dehydration and electrolyte levels, helping people to balance their intake of fluid and salt. This would be especially useful for elderly people suffering from fever and diarrhea whom can become easily dehydrated.
This light sensor works reasonably well. Goodluckbuy list it as “Electronic Brick Light Sensor Brick Module” (SKU: 75283). That’s right brick is in there twice.
From what I could find I think made by Itead. The A-D switch lets you pick the type of output from the sensor. An analogue voltage or digital high/low. The switch point for digital is adjustable via the pot and the board uses an LM358 op-amp.
Programming and working out how to apply an analogue input value to automatically adjust an output brightness value for my series of 7-segment displays proved annoying and I had little success. I believe a lot more trial and error would be needed to make this and other displays adjust with the brightness of the room. Or perhaps I’m just a bit crap.
[iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&am...]
The Agfamatic 100 is a viewfinder camera for Pak-Film 126 cassettes. It has an Agfa Colorstar lens with fixed focus and fixed aperture. Two shutter speeds are selectable with the ring around the lens barrel, the scale showing a cloud and a sun symbol. The camera has a single stroke advance lever that advances the film, cocks the Parator shutter and turns the flash cube holder on which magicubes can be fired as flash. On the axis of the advance lever is the red "sensor", the shutter release button hidden under a round piece of red foil. A little black plastic button side on the side unlocks the back door for opening the camera. The back door has a window for making visible the film cassette's exposure counter. The camera has an optical bright frame viewfinder of reverse Galilean type
Agfa Optima Sensor (~1982)
Solitar lens 1:2,8/40mm
Paratronic shutter 1/30-1/1000
Zone focus
CDS light meter
The advance lever double functions as rewind lever, after the rewind button is pressed.
This camera was made in Portugal
Arduino Heartbeat sensor circuit soldered together without a board. Later enshrined in electrical tape.
Information: cmpercussion.blogspot.com/2009/07/heartbeat-sensor.html