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I snagged an old -- and bent -- Schwinn fork from one of my local bike shops just before the holidays, and I repaired it by cutting the fork blades short and brazing them into a new crown.
This fork had maybe a 65mm offset and I've never had the love affair with low trail that many people in the American 650b rando world have, so I ended up canting the fork blades a little back to reduce the trail to ~55mm. I also had to cut down the crown lugs to fit because the blades were about 26×17 instead of the 28×20 that the crown was designed for.
It's got enough clearance for a CdlV or Nokian A10, and /maybe/ for a 38mm Flat Magnet, but no more.
This is my version of the Fig Rig camera cage from cheesycam. I added weights to the bottom of the cage since I'm using lochblech and not the heavy steel bar that is used in the states. All items in black purchased from OBI for circa 37 euro. The chrome weights and the unpainted handle and clamp at the top I already had so this would add a few more Euros to the total but not much. It works extremely well, and is very easy to assemble.
Big thanks to cheesycam for this great idea!
Modifications:
Wheels: Rennen R8 X-Treme Concave
Finish: Brushed w/ Color Matched Sophisto Grey Windows & Registers
Size: 21x9.0 | 21x10.5"
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sport
(F) 255/30/21
(R) 295/25/21
Suspension: AC Schnitzer Lowering Springs
Modification of the Sweetly Dispensed template from the January PCS, Expression of Affection. to create a desk-top organizer
melanieschulenberg.blogspot.com/2012/01/resolve-to-organi...
Unfortunately, when used with the Rega armboard the rear stub of the LMF-2 extended slightly beyond the plinth periphery, precluding the use of the turntable lid. Rather than go to the trouble and cost of purchasing in a new 'custom' armboard with the mounting hole moved further forward on the mounting arc, the necessary clearance was achieved by mounting the lid hinges further back with 5 mm nylon stand-off spacers and longer screws.
Hasselblad Flexbody (V lens mount) modified for large format lenses and digital backs such as CFV 50C/100C
Horizontal mount for rise/fall and tilt.
upper image - modification of the pass frame
bottom image - scanner output. It's not centered well, and rotated a little CW (~0,3 - 0,5 °)
Employees with Michels Directional Crossings repair and alter boring equipment during down time.
You are free to use this image with the following photo credit: Roy Lowe/U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.
The problem with the batwing (on the vstar 1300) is that because it's not a perfect fit, air enters here and gets to the rider. I didn't want that air getting in so I basically attached the visor from my half helmet onto the back side of the batwing lower molding to deflect air down away from the rider. That old visor was not used anyway.
This picture was taken with camera above and behind the ignition key hole. You can see the forward edge of the speedo at the bottom of the picture
We weren't the only ones to stop at the sight of this sculpture that had been modified so that the subject is sitting on a toilet with a traffic cone on his head.
I think Lego didn't really give Selena enough detail so i just decided to go really OTT and make this for some reason.
Taking the Christmas Tree to the tip, I stopped off to take a shot of my new car mod. Every car should have one. I was pleased with my tree this year as it kept virtually every needle and was still going strong when I took it to the tip. I bet the breeze made a needle cloud behind me as I was driving along though!
looks chunky, but that shit was real dirty and i was surprised it came out as good as it did. very impressed with the new welder's performance on AC.
This light is actually off.
Not all bicycle headlights have a separate "power on light" to let you know it's on, and some that do have the "power on light" that can show that the light is on even when the lamp is burned out. This gives the appearance to the user that they've got a light that's on, even when they don't.
So, how could someone be able to tell if the light really is on, at a glance, on a dark wet night, without taking their hands off the controls of the bike?
By following the steps below you can add a fluorescent dot to eliminate the problem.
All you need is:
Headlight
1/16" Drill Bit
Hand Drill
1/16" Fluorescent Rod (available at hobby shops)
Hobby Knife
Emery Board
Clear Blue or Green Hobby Paint (optional)
Pledge Wood Floor Finish with Future Shine (optional)
Carefully drill a 1/16" hole in the shroud of the light in front of the lens.
Using the hobby knife, bevel the edge of the fluorescent rod to make it easier to push it through the shroud.
Press the rod into the hole, from the top of the light until it extends past the end of the cut (if it's too loose, a drop of CA glue can set it into place).
Cut the rod about 3/16" above the top of the light. Clean up the cut with the emery board, then firmly press the rod flush with the top of the light using a hard flat surface. lastly, trim off the extra from the inside of the shroud.
If the color of the dot is a little too bright (I find that blue fluorescent rod looks too white), a drop of clear blue hobby paint (Tamiya's acrylic works well) can be used to get the right appearance. To make the dot appear more glossy, a drop of the floor finish will do wonders.
This composite shows the repositioning of the gathers above the midriff. I was attempting to relocate the pooling fabric in the bust area. It ended up forming a "U". I will try added an inch to the bottom of the bodice top to see if that makes a difference. This top is wearable for sure. And I like it. I just want to make it better.
apparently that motor wasn't connected to anything.... sad really... i really though it worked too...
A bit tricky at some points, but looks like 100% success. Sample IR coming...
A big thanks to guys at Vancouver Telescope Centre for letting me borrow there repair room. it has little dust lots of light, and very quiet, so i could concentrate!
I'm making some minor modifications to the new Ostrich handlebar bag so it mates with the Berthoud decaleur and Nitto rack just so. The two upper leather reinforcement patches have holes punched in them and have been relocated just slightly to match the spacing of the decaleur. The lower reinforcement and leather strap were taken from the bottom of the bag where I found them less than useful and are relocated to the back of the bag to fasten it to the "tombstone" piece of the front rack. I'm sending the bag off to a very helpful Boston area randoneuse/seamstress to have the leather bits sewn in place.