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The problem with the batwing (on the vstar 1300) is that because it's not a perfect fit, air enters here and gets to the rider. I didn't want that air getting in so I basically attached the visor from my half helmet onto the back side of the batwing lower molding to deflect air down away from the rider. That old visor was not used anyway.
This picture was taken with camera above and behind the ignition key hole. You can see the forward edge of the speedo at the bottom of the picture
We weren't the only ones to stop at the sight of this sculpture that had been modified so that the subject is sitting on a toilet with a traffic cone on his head.
I think Lego didn't really give Selena enough detail so i just decided to go really OTT and make this for some reason.
DADAMACHINIMA ►► avant-garde videogame modification
DADAMACHINIMA explores tactics of emergent gameplay, disrupted modes of interactivity,
and brute-force hacks of contemporary (video)game interfaces and environments.
exhibition December 18th - March 1st
Joan Leandre, Marc van Elburg, Julian Oliver, Gordan Savicic, Ludic Society, Gottfried Haider, JODI, Walter Langelaar, Aram Bartholl, Paul B. Davis, Friedrich Kirschner
PLANETART Volkskrantgebouw AMSTERDAM
dadamachinima.net
I repainted it using Pylox red paint and Pylox anti-rust primer as... primer! hehe. Then coated it with clear gloss spray paint (I used Pylox too I guess...). I also painted the interior white using the said spray paint. Panel lines were also added using a black-inked Gundam marker.
This light is actually off.
Not all bicycle headlights have a separate "power on light" to let you know it's on, and some that do have the "power on light" that can show that the light is on even when the lamp is burned out. This gives the appearance to the user that they've got a light that's on, even when they don't.
So, how could someone be able to tell if the light really is on, at a glance, on a dark wet night, without taking their hands off the controls of the bike?
By following the steps below you can add a fluorescent dot to eliminate the problem.
All you need is:
Headlight
1/16" Drill Bit
Hand Drill
1/16" Fluorescent Rod (available at hobby shops)
Hobby Knife
Emery Board
Clear Blue or Green Hobby Paint (optional)
Pledge Wood Floor Finish with Future Shine (optional)
Carefully drill a 1/16" hole in the shroud of the light in front of the lens.
Using the hobby knife, bevel the edge of the fluorescent rod to make it easier to push it through the shroud.
Press the rod into the hole, from the top of the light until it extends past the end of the cut (if it's too loose, a drop of CA glue can set it into place).
Cut the rod about 3/16" above the top of the light. Clean up the cut with the emery board, then firmly press the rod flush with the top of the light using a hard flat surface. lastly, trim off the extra from the inside of the shroud.
If the color of the dot is a little too bright (I find that blue fluorescent rod looks too white), a drop of clear blue hobby paint (Tamiya's acrylic works well) can be used to get the right appearance. To make the dot appear more glossy, a drop of the floor finish will do wonders.
Modifying a Velo Orange Polyvalent disc fork to accept a SON SL dynowheel -- the dropout is too small to drill holes for the plugs in a SON insulating plate, so I instead ground down the inside face of the DS dropout, epoxied a insulating plate to it (after cutting off the plugs and sanding the back face flat), then used rubber cement to glue the contact plate into the insulator.
Here's an infographic that could provide useful insights in case you are in dire need of bond modifications, cancellations and renewal.
Hello :D !!
Quelques modifications ont été faites sur la miss >WW< !!
~
Eyebrows, eyelashes with aquapencils, her tattoo under her eye has been modified too, and her body tattoos, of course :)
And she almost has her own wig :D !!
What do you think <3 ?
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More pics ? Plus de photos ?
by giving a hinge and the slopey window piece, and moving the piece that was there in the set inside a stud, you have a working boot, and the suitcase fits in there, not slipping around, almost as if it was made for this mod.
A bit tricky at some points, but looks like 100% success. Sample IR coming...
A big thanks to guys at Vancouver Telescope Centre for letting me borrow there repair room. it has little dust lots of light, and very quiet, so i could concentrate!
Modifying a Velo Orange Polyvalent disc fork to accept a SON SL dynowheel -- the dropout is too small to drill holes for the plugs in a SON insulating plate, so I instead ground down the inside face of the DS dropout, epoxied a insulating plate to it (after cutting off the plugs and sanding the back face flat), then used rubber cement to glue the contact plate into the insulator.
Frame Modifications:
- QTY 1: New rear hose guide (zip-tie style) on bottom of NDS seat-stay.
- QTY 1: Add one barrel rear light mount halfway up NDS seat-stay
- QTY 3: Remove DT/CS hose guide braze-ons
Fork Modifications:
- Dynamo Wire management. QTY 4 External dynamo wiring guides up fork leg.
- Fix Tubus Duo Lowrider collisions with quick release skewer nuts and level out rack in the process. Tubus Duo Lowrider rack modification, remove tab. Remove QTY 4 rack eyelets around dropout, add QTY 2 barrel braze-ons up fork leg.
- Add QTY 2 fender eyelets halfway up fork leg away from rack and disc caliper.
Cyclefab Porteur Rack Modifications:
- Remove light mount, add permanent drop bracket with tapped hole.
- Dynamo wire guides up driveside rack stay. QTY 2