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Manufacturer/Model: Hayward U.S. NAVY BUSHIPS MARK 45 MOD 0 7X50 (Australian Navy modification)
Field of View: 7 deg 10 min = 124.5 m/1,000 m; APFOV 50.12 deg
Weight: 1366 gr
Exit Pupil: 7.14 mm
Serial #/Year of Manufacture: 316039 =1944
Notes: See: www.flickr.com/photos/binocwpg/9518992968/in/photolist-9y... for a detailed description of the Hayward U.S. Navy Mark 45 7X50.
During World War II Australian forces used several types of British binoculars (f.ex. Bino Prism No. 2 6X30, No. 3 6X24, No. 5 7X50, and Barr & Stroud CF41 7X50) plus American ones provided under Lend Lease agreements (f.ex. Wollensak M5 6X30), and Canadian REL 6X30’s and 7X50’s as well as a variety of impressed civilian binoculars. After the war the better instruments were retained and remained in service until at least the 1960’s. Many were upgraded with anti-reflective coated optics, and if stocks were low, surplus ones from Great Britain, Canada and the United States were probably acquired. Although it’s documented that Australian forces used the aforementioned binoculars during WW II, there is no documentation the Royal Australian Navy (RAN) used American made 7X50’s during the war instead of only afterward. This is despite the fact that a number of RAN marked and/or modified examples of this type binocular have been seen. They are:
1) A US Navy National Instrument Corp Mk 32 Mod 1 1943 7X50 with RAN marking and single desiccator connection per prism plate with RAN marked leather case;
2) A US Navy Bausch & Lomb Mk 1(?) Mod 2 1941 7X50 with RAN marking and single desiccator connection per prism plate;
3) An REL CGB 57 GA 7X50 with RAN marking and single desiccator connection per prism plate (Canadian made, not American, but included in list because of similar markings and desiccator modifications).
The above Mark 45 is not RAN marked but was purchased from an Australian collector who believed it to be an Australian Navy binocular, and in common with the three referenced binoculars it has been uniquely modified with a single Barr & Stroud CF41 type desiccator connection fitted to each prism plate and the original US markings on both prism plates have been blacked over with a white painted number deeply stamped into the right plate all of which indicates probable RAN use.
The obliterated marking on the left prism plate may have been a “This Instrument has ‘Coated Optics’ Clean Lenses Carefully” type decal. The significance of the red disc on the side of each objective barrel (see View 2: www.flickr.com/photos/binocwpg/20782335611/in/photostream/ ) is unknown.
This binocular has coated optics and despite its well-used condition, optical performance remains excellent.
View 3: www.flickr.com/photos/binocwpg/16147265303/ shows how the CF41 desiccator connection plug in each prism plate is internally fitted and how the Mark 45’s prism shelf assembly is attached to its prism plate instead of the body for improved shockproofing. The Bausch & Lomb Mark 41, Sard Mark 21 and Sard Mark 43 are also built this way, but other U.S. Navy WW II binoculars are not.
Note: If you have a vintage binocular you either wish to sell or would just like some information about, I can be contacted at flagorio@shaw.ca .
From the moment I took this guy's face off, his weird brain elastic mechanism made me nervous. I wanted to tighten his strings but I'm supposed to trust a stupid brain thing??? What if the tension snaps the brain in half? Or breaks the headback? (I mean, the headback already has "cracks" in it and everything!) I couldn't really find any evidence that it was doomed (just people wondering how to use it), but still, I don't trust it.
So I used an exacto knife to carve little notches on the neck hole, and now it's strung with a keyring. Actually I think that ring came from another doll. But anyway, I trust this a lot more!
Just posting it up for anyone else to use as a reference if they want to try it :D
Working on fitting this into a layout I have and the original Castle was too wide for the space so I followed the basic instructions and just about kept everything (had to add in some darker mason bricks to stretch it) to fit in a 4 x 20 space.
Wanted a little interior details with inner courtyard, parapets, trees near a watering hole for the citizens inside the castle.
Another Matchbox Series No4 Dodge K Series Stake Bed Truck Modification. 1966 to 1968 - 1-75 Series. I didn't show it but the body has been painted a silver metallic that is actually a satin finish. I really wanted it gloss but I like this color for some reason. I used the color to restore my 65 Rambler dealer promo. My wife walked over with a box of the kids old 90's Matchbox and Hot Wheels cars that are pretty rough and she said maybe there are some good parts in here and there was this yellow truck box with all of the old cars. Kind of a silly side graphics but I was thinking maybe better than the stake bed.
The doc is cutting off excess plaster which pressed up into dad's arm. Dad said it was a huge relief once the doc cut it off.
Shows modification of protective coveralls on a worker inside an active remediation work area: respirator around neck, street-footwear in work area, sleeves and hood have been torn off, footings were cut off at calf level, and front zipper was down at waist level. Not sure what the point is anymore in wearing such compromised PPE.
"Abatement Fashion Chic" ?
This is a modification of the National Railway Museum's Class 03 diesel-mechancial shunter to represent a specific example that I came across quite regularly in my youth. Whilst neither a photographer nor a railway enthusiast at the time, I took on opportunist 'snapshot' of blue-liveried D2079 at Witton Park in 1971, on what is now part of the Weardale Railway. I still have that photograph and, whilst the quality isn't very good, it does mean that this digital representation should be pretty accurate.
The 'uncomfortable' position of the TOPS data panel between the logo and running number suggests that it had been added subsequent to the other details. It is interesting that, despite the Class 03 designation in the data panel, it still carried its steam-age running number, complete with 'D' prefix.
I would almost certainly have come across D2079 on station pilot duties at Darlington and later, renumbered as 03079, at Newcastle; in both cases semi-permanently coupled to a former Conflat 'match' wagon for track-circuit activation purposes. It was transferred to the Isle of Wight in 1984, the cab roof having been reduced in profile to pass through the restricted Ryde tunnel. After withdrawal in 1994, it was stored for several years before sale to the Derwent Valley Railway (19-Mar-10).
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Here's a quick modification I made to the cheapo umbrella bracket from Ebay.
To make sure the flash was safe, I added a small blob of Araldite at the ends of the hotshoe plate. this would stop the flash sliding out of the bracket if the screw had not been tightened properly. To remove the flash from the bracket now requires the screw to be undone quite some way.
Hopefully this will reduce the chance of the flash falling out. Not that it's happened yet, but this seems a sensible precaution.
This photo was lit with the ring light on half power, while the bracket was standing on foam-core. I burnt out the slight shadow in CS2.
I add two washers to the governor. This adds some preload on the spring which retards the opening of the exhaust valves. This way i eliminate a small bog/hesitation in the powerband when using the bigger 38mm carburetor. Sidenote: instead of 2x 1,5mm washer you could also use just 1x3mm. NOT for ATAC engines !!! Just on HPP.
I add two washers to the governor. This adds some preload on the spring which retards the opening of the exhaust valves. This way i eliminate a small bog/hesitation in the powerband when using the bigger 38mm carburetor.
ITACHI from Naruto
Custom Taeyang by Sheryl Designs to Renske
MODIFICATIONS:
Sculped mouth - Complette MakeUp - Original Eyechip Design -
©2007-2010 Sheryl Designs Eyemech Modification – cut/hairdo – Complete Outfit and all Complements
- Diorama
See more photos at: Renske‘s Flickr
Modification of the basic MP5 to fire the .45 ACP cartridge, made famous due to its usage in the M1911 pistol, better known as the Colt .45. The mag used is the secret one, though I originally got it from Amy.
This weapon applies to the build-off that I am in with Bowlingdude.
Modification of the Original Lego 10246 Detective's Office set. Built from 2 sets and some spare parts....it is 56 studs wide in stead of 32 studs.
Salted Fish, Cheung Chau, Hong Kong
by Leica M7, Canon 50mm F/0.95 (M Modification)
My website link
www.eyescoffee.com/diary/diary0282.php
My website with more details about collecting camera :
AK-47 with grip and laser sight along with thermal scope and mussel flash plus metal slash aluminum parts instead of wood.
Mi-8MSB modification of Mi-8 by Motor Sich flight display at MAKS-2013.
P.S. In a very dull weather.
P.P.S. Accidently left aperture at f/22 and got 1/50 shutter speed at ISO 200.
At Lego shows in 2024, my Castle class would occasionally derail when there was a kink in the track, particularly when entering corners.
I put this down to the chassis setup I'd chosen, based on Carl Greatrix's previous Castle model, whereby the rear bogie wheels were fixed to the main chassis. In some cases, it seemed these wheels were getting raised off the track by the driving wheels behind.
I've now re-worked the chassis to have a more conventional pivoted bogie. There is still only 1 set of flanged drivers, to allow the bogie to not crash sideways into the cylinders. However now the bogie is on a single pivot, positioned above the rear bogie wheels.
This should help to 'steer' the loco into corners, and the little shoulder on the pin piece also helps to keep the weight on the bogie wheels.
Based on the amazing Micro-Model designed by master builder Mariann Asanuma for Brickjournal
Ignoring the elegant lines of Mariann's model, I made a few tweaks to the design, extending the roof and adding a chimney. I also gave a bigger hat to the snowman, 'cause I'm a rebel like that.
my newest piercing! I have my tragus pierced on my right side. I was so nervous to do this one because I had a horrible piercing experience with my tragus...it hurt SO bad being pierced and the guy literally took 40 minutes to get the ball on the hoop all the while tugging on a fresh piercing trying to get the ball on. I always loved this piercing but like I said I was nervous because it seems pretty thick but I hyped myself up for nothing, it was a pop from the needle going thru, the jewelry insertion was a pinch of pain (not bad though.) The worst part was the alcohol or whatever it was to clean it up at the end ...that stung horribly. Virtually no pain since being pierced and I absolutely love it!
Done by Phil @ Slingin' Ink in Scranton PA while visiting my bro. After my tragus experience I have only gone to two piercers: Phil, and local to me Tony @ Rock 'n Willy's. They have been piercing and perfecting their technique for YEARS and have been 100% WONDERFUL to work with.
Update: piercing was done on 9/12, it was absolutely fine looked like this for about 3-4 days. I was cleaning it twice a day with H2O spray and being careful not to touch it/bump it...after the 3rd day it swelled like crazy and just immense pain throbbed through my ear, woke me up out of my sleep. I was absolutely MISERABLE for a whole day...my ear was twice it's size with the swelling...I wanted to saw my ear off to get some relief from the pain.
I went back to my local piercer and he told me it was absolutely normal just to keep cleaning it, maybe doing actual sea salt soaks with hot water, take some ibuprofen for the pain, and if it was really as bad as I said it was to crush up an ibuprofen and make a paste with water and put it on my piercing. I immediately did a combination of all 3 when I got home and continued with the sea salt soaks a couple times a day and I'm now two days since that horrible day and it's helped a ton! The swellings better than that first day, the first day you could barely see the bottom ball. I can now see the bottom ball but my ear is still pretty swollen. Knowing the pain I had the other day with this, had I ever expected to go through anything like that I most likely wouldn't do the piercing again...hoping I can heal it up so I don't have to lose it because I do really love it.