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UN 54 film developed in PMK developer. This developer is a bit different as it really enhances the greyscale
1/6
Holga negative enlarged to 27x30cm on Wephota FO5 Lith Film by reversal development
Kallitype on Bergger Cot-320
UV exposure 130 secs
developer sodium citrate
clearing bath citric acid 4%
fresh Pd-toner (Ammoniumpalladate) 2 mins
alkaline fixer 1+20
Camera: Cosina Voigtlander Bessa R3M
Lens: KMZ Jupiter 3 50mm f1.5
Film: Fuji Neopan 100 (Legacy Pro)
Developer: Xtol
Scanner: Epson V600
Photoshop: Curves, Healing Brush (spotting)
Cropping: None
Leica M2
Leica Summilux 35mm f/1.4 II
Ferrania P30
Rollei Supergrain Developer (1+12)
7 min 30 sec 20°C
Scan from negative film
Look for our FPP Newsletter tomorrow February 5th. Our latest developer (D96) is in-the-house!
Photo courtesy of Mark O'Brien.
At the naked man festival in Okayama, Japan.
Leica M3, Ilford FP4, Kodak Tmax developer, Ilford Multigrade RC Deluxe satin paper, Silver gelatin print.
Fujifilm X-T1, XF18-135mmF3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR, RAW / Iridient & Lightroom 5.5
Fuji X Secrets workshops
Read the X-Pert Corner blog.
New books:
Die Fujifilm X-E2. 100 Profitipps
Painted Trillium (Trillium undulatum), Cullasaja Gorge, Nantahala National Forest
Pentax K-1
SMC Pentax-A Macro 1:2.8 50mm
Iridient Developer
"Il Bigo", Old harbor, Genova, Italy.
Structure from architect Renzo Piano.
September 2012.
Shot on an Arax-modified Kiev 60 6x6 medium format camera, Arsat 80mm F2.8, exposure guessed at 1/250s F13 on Fujifilm Provia 400X.
Developed to N in Tetenal E6 3 bath Kit.
Scanned on a Hasseblad Flextight X5 @ 3200dpi.
Very light postprocessing.
Thank you everyone for your visit, favorites and comments.
🔴Leica my point of view.
Wetzlar, Deutschland.
Leica-CL 1974 Rangefinder
Leica-M 6 TTL 0.72 1998 Rangefinder
Leica-M6 TTL 0.85 2001 Rangefinder
Leica-M6 TTL 0.72. Elmarit-M 1:2.8/21mm ASPH. Ilford FP 4 plus 125asa.
Developer Ilford ID 11 1+1 20º 11 min.
Nikon Super Coolscan 5000 ED, Film Scanner.
Maastricht Limburg Nederland
The Netherlands.
For Processing BW Film - Not For Drinking!
The FPP’s new Caffenol Developer for Black and White Processing at home! CUP O’ JOE is a powder solution in a handy pouch that when mixed with water produces 1 Liter of BW Home Developing solution that will process up to 4 rolls of 35mm, 120 or 8 4x5 sheets of BW film.
filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-caffe...
Event: S.E. Staffs Rally
Location: Cheslyn Hay, Staffordshire
Camera: Canon AT-1
Lens(s): Canon FD 50mm f/1.8
Film: Fujifilm C200
Shot ISO: 200
Light Meter: Camera
Lighting: Natural
Mounting: Hand held
Developer: Digibase C-41
Scanner: Epson V800
Post: Adobe Lightroom & Photoshop (dust removal)
The Film Photography Project now brings you D96 B/W negative developer. Long used in the motion picture industry as the standard B/W developer, but previously only available in very large quantities. We now have it available in powder to make 1 US Gallon.
D96 is a lower contrast film developer with the ability to increase the contrast by increasing your developing times or agitation. We have tested this developer with not only cinema films like X2 (Eastman Double-X), ORWO Cinema Films and FPP LOW ISO BW, but with standard B/W films like Kodak Tri-X. T-Max and Ilford FP4 an HP5 films.
Interesting softness. Shot in broad daylight with pushed Kodak 2383. Extremely fine grain even though the development was contrasty. Kodak 2383 pushed to ISO 6 (2 Stops) shot with Nikon N90s and Sigma EX 17-35 AF Zoom. Taking advantage of 2383's tendency to go dark when pushed. This was actually shot in broad daylight in the afternoon sun in an open yard. Interesting effects. Developed in FUJI RA-4 paper developer 1 to 14 dilution plus 10ml of 30% hydrogen peroxide to bring the developer to pH 10.59 (ECP 2 levels). Dev for 3 minutes at 100 degrees. Acid stop for 40 seconds. Bleached for 1 minute in potassium ferricyanide bleach, 1 minute wash, 40 second fix in home made ammonium thiosulfate fixer. Difficult to scan because both the scanner and I wanted to make it "daylight" instead of a very dark image as the negative confirms. More to be done here....
Location: Wang Lung Street, Tsuen Wan, Hong Kong
Nikon S3
Cosina Voigtländer S Nokton 50mm f/1.5 Aspherical
Arista Premium 400
Kodak D-76 (Stock)
8 min at 20ºC
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It was obvious this was coming, wasn't it? I have shared my move back into film black and white photography and I have shared my excitement about digital pinhole photography. So today, those two interests merge and I have the first image to share ...
Zero Image 135 Back To Nature Series
Fujifilm Neopan 100 Acros Black and White Negative Film
Kodak XTOL Developer, Ilford Ilfostop, Kodak Fixer, Ilford Ilfotol
Scanned with Plustek OpticFilm 8200i SE
No post-processing after scanning
... Buffalo's Canalside, one of my favorite waterfront locations, however, from a new angle to get something new along with the new capture medium ...
Event: South Cheshire Branch Rally
Location: Blakemere, Cheshire
Camera: Agfa Silette
Lens(s): Agfa Color-apotar 45mm f/2.8
Film: Agfa Vista 200 expired 2017
Shot ISO: 125
Light Meter: Weston Master II
Exposure: 1/100
Lighting: Mostly Sunny
Mounting: Hand-held
Developer: Bellini C-41 Kit
Scanner: Epson V800
Post: Adobe Lightroom & Photoshop (dust removal)
So I've now developed my first test roll of FP4+ for 510-Pyro, using RZ67.
This was at box speed, following published dev time of 10mins at 20ºC. I screwed up the last frame in the sequence, so the bottom row frames here are the same (the last one should be a stop darker for Zone 10).
I was hoping to make an argyrotype of this today to confirm, but I've compared this against my set of test negs for Pyrocat HD and I think the film speed is OK actually, at 125 (as opposed to 64 which I used for PyrocatHD) but, even with the extra zone 10 exposure here, I still think I could go a stop up in the development time, so N+1 would be N for a bit more expansion in the highlights. So perhaps 12'15".
Will try to expose and process some 10x8 sheets and see. Not a particular hardship if they don't quite work for argyrotype because they'll scan fine.
Quick thoughts on the difference in use between the two developers.
1) I'm v glad to not have to do the extra steps that I've been doing with PyrocatHD, e.g. using a v weak acetic acid stop bath, and a hypo clear step (though tbh I don't think either of these were either totally necessary or desirable).
2) I wish 510-Pyro was less gloopy and messy and more easily mixed in (for Pyrocat HD in glycol I happily used a 5ml measure for both parts as opposed to a cumbersome syringe process, which I started with for Pyrocat but ditched. 510 is far too gloopy to afford this convenience it seems).
3) The stain seems good to me!
4) Looking forward to making a better fixer. Since I've run out of TF4, I've been using my own alkali hypo+soda mix, but this easily runs past 10mins fixing time (this was the second run for this lot of fixer and the clearing time was 7 minutes, starting at 5mins). I could use Ilford Rapid Fixer but don't want to reduce the stain particularly.
Also NB pink tinge is a reminder to wash the negs properly (I just did these using Ilford method, which isn't enough, clearly). If the tinge is still there after 10 cycles of water, then I'll reintroduce the hypoclear step maybe.
I'm already using coffee (caffenol c) as a developer for my bw films. Today I want to try to cross process a fuji nph 400 color negativ film. Took a few pictures this morning. On some blogs about caffenol there was mentioned that coffee is also able to develop these color films and is even used for paper prints. The color is almost 'washed' away but the film then is some kind of toned. I'm looking forward for the results.
Things needed are:
* instant coffee
* soda
* vitamin c
* potassium bromid
* citric acid
* fixing liquid
* a tank for the film
The film stays in the soup for about 15 minutes. The tank should be carefully agitated for the whole first minute and then three times every minute. After flushing with water the process is stopped by citric acid. The citric acid solution stays in the tank for 1-2 minutes. Then after another flushing with water fill in the fixer (e.g. Ilford Rapid Fixer or any other available for b&w films). Fixer stays for 8-12 minutes. Then wash the film following the Ilford scheme (3-6-12-24 agitations or 5-10-15-25). Last step is flushing with distilled water.