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The home my husband and I bought had central heating and air conditioner when we bought it. However, after a few years we started having issues with our AC.
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I found this in mint condition at the DAV Thrift store in Hampton, VA in the winter of 2004. The cashier probably thought I was on crack when I bought it.
It's in storage now.
This is the first time that I have used the Zeiss Batis lens to photograph the various follies in St.Anne’s Park and I must admit that I am very happy with the results mainly because of the detail captured in the images that I have published online. I am so pleased with the 25mm lens that I have decided to purchase the new 18mm Batis if I can raise the cash. I am also considering the new Sony GM lenses but they may prove to be too expensive for me.
St. Annes is known for its follies, of which there are approximately ten, mainly around the Naniken river. The follies include a Herculanean Temple on a mock-ruined bridge abutment along the Naniken river, which served as a tearoom for the family, a Pompeian Water Temple of Isis on the banks of the duckpond, and the Annie Lee Tower and Bridge near the chestnut walk.
Other follies include Saint Anne's Well beside the duckpond, after which the park gets its name, the Hermitage Bridge, Yew Circle and Fountain (behind the formal walled garden beside the house), rustic cave and bridge, three rustic archways and a rock work feature. A "Druidic Circle" of Giant's Causeway basalt was lost at an earlier stage. An unusual folly is the Roman style viewing tower which stands on the hill overlooking the duckpond. This started out as an observation tower on the roof of the original house. Later, the tower was removed during extensive refurbishment of St. Anne's house in about 1873 and placed in its current location. It is modelled on the Tomb of the Julii at Glanum near St. Rémy in France.
Many of the follies are in a neglected condition at present, with graffiti being an ongoing problem. For example, the Roman style viewing tower is graffiti covered and has been closed for many years. In addition it is completely hidden by mature trees and could only be revealed by felling them, which would be detrimental to the environment of the park. An alternative proposal is that the tower be moved instead to the site of the old rockery, near the junction of James Larkin Road and Mount Prospect Avenue.
In 2010, Dublin City Council, with the support of the Heritage Council, commissioned a strategy by conservation architects (Shaffrey and Associates) for the long-term conservation of these follies, and it is planned to implement this on a phased basis. It is now 2016 and I have visited the park at least twice per year since 2010 and I am convinced that the follies are now in a worse condition than they were back in 2010 and I am not at all sure that they can be saved
These were described on eBay as Kitten Heeled Loafers, in good condition.
They are mules, with no heel upper. My friends say they have more of a heel than what is usually considered a "kitten heel" And the inner lining is disintegrating and leaves hard-to-remove black gook stuck to my feet and toenails when I wear them.
They do fit OK (I can't fins a size, I think they are about a EU38 or so.) My heels hang slightly out the back. I do have to watch out wearing them outside, on rough surfaces the heel tends to shift sideways twisting my ankle.
I have removed the rubber heel pads, my hope is that the plastic heel shanks will continue to wear down to reduce the height of the heels. I am considering sawing off a half inch or more of the plastic to speed up the process. We'll see.
Overall, I do find them kind of fun to wear.
My three-year old Regenyei Federschwert is in need of replacing the grip cord wrapping but it's good to check over the entire steel longsword trainer to check on its overall condition. Not counting the times I took breaks or used other simulators the total time used where there was impact is closer to a year and a half. That's anywhere from light contact to full force depending on what kind of exercise, drills, or sparring conditions.
It has been used mostly with Ensifers, Regenyeis, and a few Chlewbowskis. The most damage came from blunts such as Albion which have thinner edges and softer steel that knurl and create sharp edges that can produce notches. Potentially the most non-visual damage may probably be from old Angus Trim I-Beam with its shorter length and massively thicc edge.
Fortunately sparring against I-Beams is generally limited to people who have some very good control over power delivery. One-handed swords with bucklers, wooden shaft spears with rubber tips, and tires round out the remaining physical contacts.
Regenyei steel feders on average lasts two years. I've seen ones that break in about a year and others that are close to four years. Most reputable smiths will replace feders that break under a year when it's used reasonably.
Inspection
One of the insightful things pointed out by a Victorian practitioner in the club is that chips along the blade edges can over time act as points of stress such as the triangular cut outs of a potato chip bag. I use a green Scotch-Brite half-sponge to smooth these out while others use files.
The blade while clearly worn is smooth and one of the interesting things that happened to it was that I lent it to a Japanese sword practitioner early on. His tendency to parry was to use the flat of the sword instead of the edge which makes total sense for the system he was familiar with. Even now there is this interesting pattern of burning embers fanned by a breeze that slowly fades up along the lower blade flat.
The guards have a number of chips from attempts to control opposing blades that has been smoothed out. The pommel has a few dents and scratches mostly from bashing - lightly - against drill partners and opponent's faces in close distances but otherwise the peen at the bottom is still smooth. No monologues here when opponents are trying to push the blades into your face.
The grip on the other hand has dents. Our club's master at arms has experimented with 3D-printed handles and while I noted that these plastics cave in from grip strikes which is expected, the wood has that as well. It seems to be two to three times more resilient from cave-ins and there's no cracks or rot so and that's very good news.
I'm glad that I choose a cord wrapping instead of leather. Cords are easily treated and fixed using bees wax and can be done as field repairs. Eventually there was more wax than cord and the cords exploded out spectacularly during a Swordsquatch sparring session while twisting the grip into a Zwerchau. The cord on the grip needs to be entirely replaced.
General Maintenance
Always keep in mind that I'm just another random voice on the internet so while I make an effort to verify things it's best to ask those who are much more knowledgeable. It's best to considered what's said here as a starting point to ask questions rather than an infallible instructional. Anyway this is what works for me, other people will have different suggestions that will work too. I mentioned most of this previously in other places except now it's been informed by real-world use and time.
Safety - Personal Protective Equipment
During sanding I wear a 3M Ultimate FX FF-402 full-face respirator with olive-coded 3M multi gas vapor cartridges that are NIOSH P100 rated. I recommend cheaper full-face respirators if lightness and the ability to speak are not as important. This isn't a test to be used for proper equipment check but after putting on the respirator I cup the cartridge intakes with my hands and breathe in and out to check for leaks. I do this facing forward and once again looking down to see if the straps are loose.
I had conversations with a surprising number of people outside of the martial art community saying that a full face respirator is a waste of money because they know metal smiths don't use them. Fair enough they do what they want. I sometimes wear a Petzl headlamp and during cleaning see lots of Scothc-Brite strands and metal dust in the air and am used to wearing full-faced respirators. Your health is more important than convenience and that's all I have to say on that.
Wearing a full-face respirator is sweaty even when it's cold so for cleaning I put isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel and wipe down anything that came into contact with my face and fair. This includes the straps too because it's not good to have things growing while the respirator is sitting in a bag for a week or more. I have a sacrificial plastic face shield over the respirator face but unless there's paint or an accident then it probably doesn't need to be replaced for years. I still use the original removable shield.
Disposable gloves are also useful to avoid chemicals, rubbing metal particulates into eyes, or ingesting metal while eating.
Preparation and Sanding
If a file is being use make sure it's for steel and not wood and I've seen sandpaper used just fine too. Low grit number is rougher, higher grit number is smoother.
For corrosion and notches I use a green Scotch-Brite half-sponge while others use files. The 3M Scotch-Brite pads have grit ratings classified by color. Green pads are about 600 grit and the blue pad I sometimes use for light anti-corrosion work that is equivalent to a 3M white pad is a finer 1000 grit. It's important to keep in mind that unless the federschwert's purpose is to be hung on a wall or non-contact solo drills then the blade is going to get marred so I wouldn't bother with immaculate polishing with Metal Glo. This is a workhorse, each mark tells a story.
All metal surfaces are wiped down with isopropyl alcohol with a towel to remove oil before Scotch-Brite is used. It seems strange to say this but it's best not to ever get a Scotch-Brite sponge wet because they get less pliable and can crack after drying.
The feder has a blunt edge so it's fine to go back and forth over the entire blade with a Scotch-Brite linearly along the blade length. The only time I spot clean is if I know I'll be going over the entire blade anyway. I admit avoiding noticeable scuff spots is partly for aesthetic reasons although a blade that has a predictable pattern will make looking for problems so much easier.
I place the tip down on cardboard and clean the guards, pommel, and the flared schilt at the base of the blade easily this way. The blade can be cleaned like this although I find it easier to just run it horizontally like a fiddle. I occasionally let it cool down which gives me an excuse to take a break.
Red is active rust while black marks tend to be inactive. Dents and what not along the edges should be sanded smooth. A good rule of thumb is if you still don't want the blade edge or other surfaces to drag across your skin or clothing then it needs more smoothing. This applies to the guards as I and many others have had forearms shredded during grappling.
A very noticeable sign for the need for sanding the blade is during sparring or heavy contact drills that have blades sparking. While extremely cool looking those are pieces of metal burned off form impact and friction leaving a jagged edge behind.
Cleaning and Corrosion Prevention
All surfaces are then wiped with isopropyl alcohol towel to remove as much of the steel dust. Dust increases surface area, attracts more dust and moisture, and breaks the protective barrier of the thin film of oil that prevents corrosion. Usually I find that a followup with a separate oily rag will fully wipe off metal particulates.
I use food grade mineral oil that's also good for knives and wooden butcher blocks. This is absolutely not corn oil or olive oil as they will eventually go rancid. Regular mineral oil will work fine as well as gun oil. Choji sword oil as far as I can tell is basically expensive scented mineral oil.
WD-40 is primarily for water displacement so that oils intended for corrosion prevention can be used. For short durations of a few days WD-40 is better than nothing but it evaporates too quickly for long term corrosion prevention.
Once applied the oil should add a glossy effect on metal surfaces but it shouldn't be thick to reduce attracting dust. An hour or two after applying oil if there's a sweating effect on the surfaces then there's too much oil and a simple wipe should fix it.
Optionally I use a cotton swap with a little bit of oil to wipe the inside of the feder's back-folded tip, the top and bottom gaps between the blade schilt and the guard, the depressed ring at the base of the pommel, and the flattened peen.
I often wipe down the feder with oil after class. If there is skin contact such as during blade grabs then I will wipe down surfaces with isopropyl alcohol before applying oil. This is because there's a chance that salt and moisture can get trapped between the surface the fresh application of oil causing corrosion and ultimately pitting. I've seen this out at sea with tools where the environment has a high salt content in the moisture but it has happened with my feder.
Once oiled there's no issues with storing the feder out in the open for a month. Once there's dust then it needs to be wiped down with oil again as one time I've actually seen the beginnings of pitting from where the oil film barrier was compromised by the dust. That took an hour to slowly sand without leaving a noticeable sanding spot mark. Corrosion prevention done consistently will save tons of time down the road.
I knew someone who used floor wax to good effect giving the blade a slightly duller matte look. Unfortunately edges and strikes along the flat easily removes the protection. The best bet is to wipe down everything after practice. It's probably a good idea to avoid storing the feder in scabbard for long periods. If placed on a sword hangar or display make sure to research if galvanic corrosion will occur with any metal in contact with the steel.
Corded Wrap Grip Maintenance
I really liked the look and feel of leather wraps but even before finding out that one of things we drill for is hand strikes from other's experiences that leather gets damaged easily and is a pain to repair compared to cord. I wear leather gloves anyway. After a month of using the corded grip I noticed that there were very small fibers starting to appear almost like a fuzz. The cord was very slowly coming apart from use so a few people suggested I use bees wax and work it into the cord with heat to prevent fraying.
For melting bees wax I use a Xikar Tech 525BK Lighter refillable with butane. It's a cigar lighter with an adjustable flame dial at the bottom. I also have a Zippo lighter using traditional lighter fluid and one with a Thunderbird butane insert and neither has a flame as predictable as a jet flame. I've use double jets and it was annoying trying to figure out where the sweet spot is for melting things without under or overcooking especially with shock cords so single flame is the way to go.
The wax will darken the color of the cord so mine went from an almost cherry brown to a chocolate brown. The cord will be a little grippier too which is a nice bonus. Some people use epoxy or other kinds of shellac-like covering for the grip and they work quite well up until they crack from a hand strike. The wax does very well with keeping cut cords onto the grip and using a finger nail it can be shaped with thread lines that will hide the repair at first glance.
Epilogue
Everything seems to have held up well and the cord is the only thing that is in need of replacement. Thanks for reading this far and I hope this is a useful starting point to ask others about basic maintenance for your federschwert.
I borrowed this photo from another Flickr user, rockriver. Here is the original URL:http://www.flickr.com/photos/20247775@N02/ / CC BY 2.0
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A RAS DE SUELO
Champú citrus mint para el cuerpo, gel citrus mint para el pelo, acondicionador dayli conditioner también para el pelo...y agua caliente...y no solo desprendà suciedad, maquillaje y galletas.
Ayer pedÃa dinero por la mañana y conducÃa un deportivo por la noche.
Ayer me sentà otra persona. Sobrepasó con creces mis expectativas, no solo fotográficas, aunque no sea yo quien deba decir eso, sino personales en cuanto a la experiencia vivida.
Ayer vivà durante horas una historia real desde el prisma contrario al habitual.
Gracias a Olga, Lola y Jose Ramón por acompañarme, apoyarme, ayudarme, comprenderme, y aportar a éste proyecto, no solo fotográfico, con un grado de realidad y experiencia más allá de una pose, un escenario recreado y un personaje irreal. Gracias por ayudarme a trasladar a mi personaje hasta un estado de realidad palpable.
Y gracias a mi familia por apoyarme tanto como la ha hecho :) Muac!!!!
A ras de suelo apareció como una posibilidad hace ya varios meses. Hablé de ello con Lola y le pareció buena idea, y desde entonces ha ido madurando poco a poco hasta llegar a hacerse realidad.
Mi aspecto me ha costao lo mÃo, ya que he estado dos meses sin afeitarme y un mes sin cortarme las uñas...y me dedico a la imagen, jajaja! No hay que decir más sobre la cantidad de comentarios que he aguantao...jejeje. Uno de ellos fue el que me hizo un conocido diciéndome:
-Killo! Te pareces al que duerme en el contador de la esquina!...Jajaja!!!
...no sabe que fue uno de los mejores piropos que me han echao nunca!!!
La ropa es algo que me preocupaba muchÃsimo, ya que se pretendÃa que nadie notara que se trataba de algo irreal, de hecho, tenemos algunas anécdotas que denotan justo lo contrario (policÃa incluida, jajaja!!!), asi que conseguà ropa de un centro de personas de la tercera edad, lo que le añade un valor especial, ya que es ropa usada por ancianos y de donación de una época nada actual. Nada mejor que la realidad para añadir realidad.
El maquillaje necesitaba el mismo trato que la ropa, y Olga tuvo una idea fantástica al pensar en añadir arena o similar al maquillaje. Al final utilizamos crema hidratante, maquillaje plástico, galletas húmedas y un magnÃfico toque de lápiz para las ojeras y los labios...y es que ésta Olga es tremenda!!! Las galletas se usaron también para el pelo, lo que resulto fantástico.
La búsqueda de la localización fue a raÃz de Germán, también fotógrafo, que me hablaba de la búsqueda de un entorno lejano a mà para añadirle una herramienta más al personaje. Muchas gracias, tÃo! No sabes lo que eso me ha facilitado en sentirme desubicado durante toda la sesión. Un a brazo.
Y Jerez de la Frontera fue el lugar que escogÃ.
Bueno, a Lola decirle que es alguien muy importante para mi, y que es un honor poder contar con ella para éstas cosas, y que gracias por escuchar y que es alguien de quien siempre aprendo y comparto.
A Olga y a Jose Ramón decirles también que es un honor, y que le añaden un toque especial a todo lo que hacen y que saben lo importantes que han sido en todo momento.
A Antonio, que no te dejo atrás, jodÃo, decirle que para la próxima no se me escapa, y que ya tenga que estudiarse El Quijote de memoria, que me lo llevo como sea. Jajaja!!! Besos, tÃo!
Y gracias de nuevo a Carloti y a Manolo por prestarme todo el material. Y que se vallan comprando otro, que mi cabeza no para y ya pa que voy a estar pidiendo, si tengo de tó! Jajaja!!!
Espero que os guste la serie, será lento en mostrar, ya que hay mucho material, pero que espero que os guste :)
Please don't use this image on websites, blogs or other media without my explicit permission. © All rights reserved
Por favor, no use esta imagen en su web, blogs u otro medio de comunicación sin mi aprobación explÃcita. © Todos los derechos reservados.
Idea original y realización/edición: Miguel Angel Santos
Foto: Miguel Angel Santos
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air conditioner repair pensacola
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Mazda MX-5 1.8i Berkeley (Limited Edition) 1998/R. UK Car. Low milage. Amazing condition & looks stunning in the summer sun!
One of the best condition mk1 MX5’s on the road. Last of the mk1s. Selling after owning it for 5yrs as time for something new/different ie a 4x4 Pickup L200.
Tax
Ends Jan 2014. Just enough time to get it home, insure it and get it taxed ready for the summer!
MOT
MoT = End Sept 2014 (8 mths). It was MoT’d in Sept 2013 at 67,894 and taken off the road in Nov when we got the new car and waiting till after Christmas to sell it, and here you are now. So since it’s last MOT it’s hardly been used. I have loads of old MOTs certificates to go with it from 2001>2006 + 2008>2013.
Mileage
Low Mileage at just 68,333, that’s less than 4k a year average. Previous MoTs show the milage as 2001=11k, 2002=16k, 2003=28k, 2004=34k, 2005=39k, 2006=44k, 2008=50k, 2009=56k, 2010=59k, 2011=63k, 2012=65k and 2013=67k (today it is at 68k). As you can see we do above 2k-3k a year in it.
History
I have a wad of paperwork to go with it from me and previous owners. One previous owner was in the MX5 club. It had a new windscreen in 2009 as cracked. It comes with the original Mazda receipt when sold as new April 1998 (so it turns 16 this year), plus two second hand receipts (2005 and 2009)! Log book show it’s had 5 former keepers, be for 5yrs, previous for 4yrs.
Servicing
It had a full service in Sept 2013. The timing belt was replace in 2009 at 57,002 miles along with plugs and leads. It has been well looked after and service regularly. The Mazda folder it came with new has the handbook & service book. Service stamps are 1998=0.8k, 1999=5k, 2000=9k, 2001=11k, 2002=16k, 2003=28k, 2004=34k, 2009=57k, 2013=68k.
Berkeley Edition
Limited to 400 models this is number 134. Being a Berkeley this adds two tone black/grey leather seats, leather door trim, alloy wheels, Momo steering wheel, chrome luggage rack, chrome cross bar behind seats and a limited edition plaque.
Body
It’s Sparkle Green (a lovely head turning metallic bright green/turquoise). No rust and paintwork is is amazing shiny condition. When it’s summer and polished nicely it really does turn heads. The front bumper has a small area where the lacquer has tarnished and this is reflected in my asking price. A common rust area is the rear wheel arches, these are rust free as they have been replaced to a high standard. The chassis has some rust spots as per it's last MOT report (which it passed first time). Every time we see a mk1 we always say it’s not as good nick as ours! It was used as the family’s weekend/spare car. See pics.
Roof
Roof is water tight and had a new rear window installed 4yrs ago and is still like new. When we took the roof down we made sure the bars didn’t touch the window using a cover and thus stopped it getting damaged. We also unzipped the rear window before folding the roof down again to avoid the window being folded in half an creasing it like you see on a lot of mk1s. Basically the hood is perfect! When you come to view it we’ll drop the roof and show you how to do it to keep care of the roof/window. See pics.
Interior
Great sounding CD/Radio stereo by JVC with a USB cable for your iPod or USB stick. Manual windows. No aircon. Lockable glove box and centre consol. Leather seats. The Berkeley edition does originally come with a plastic stick on cover on the dash in a wood effect. This has been removed as it was faded when we bought it and as such is now the normal black dash but still look amazing. See pics. Drivers door window winder mechanism (not electric) needs attention as it won't go down.
Mechanics.
Manual 5 speed. 1.8 injection. Runs like a dream and being the 1.8 model it is pretty nippy! The suspension is spot on and as such handles like it’s on rails. I also have a workshop/maintenance handbook you can have too. Under the bonnet everything looks great and not steam cleaned etc just looks great. See pics.
Ownership
Owned by myself for 5yrs, previous owner had it for 4yrs. We did have a hard top for it so in the winter it was always kept nice and dry. We sold this last summer as it was starting to get tatty and we did intend to buy a new one for this winter but as we are now selling it we didn’t buy one in the end. You can get one for a few hundred but finding one in Sparkle Green may be hard!
Comes With
Tax till end of Jan. MoT till Sept 2014. Two keys. Stereo. Log book. Old MoTs. Handbook. Service book. Workshop book. Lots of garage paperwork. Old sales receipts. Cover for the roof when folded down. Spare wheel. A big smile as you drive away and a bigger one when it’s sunny and get the roof down. We also may have a can for Sparkle Green paint you can have that we had to spray the hard top we sold, if we still have it you can have it as this is a rare metallic colour and hard to match.
As you can see we loved this car, and it’s been loved by all previous owners and also well looked after. So we hope it goes to a good home….
Thank you.
£1995 ono
It had long been our ambition to convert the basement of the Rotunda back to its condition in 1910. Ickworth Lives, a project funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund and your donations, is doing just that. Opened on 2nd March 2012, we invite you to discover the real lives of those who lived and worked in this party house in the 1930s.
The exterior of the Earl-Bishop’s Rotunda was virtually finished when he died in 1803, but the interior was still an empty shell, and the curving corridors and wings only a few feet above ground. It was left to the Earl-Bishop’s son, the future 1st Marquess of Bristol, to make what use he could of his father’s extraordinary plan. Having no need for massive galleries, in 1821 he instructed his architect, John Field, to redesign the East Wing as family living-quarters.
Field fitted out the ground floor of the Rotunda as state rooms in an austere Regency style. The West Wing was added purely for symmetry and so was left empty. The Trust is pleased to announce the go-ahead of a package for a project to develop the West Wing to provide new facilities for visitor reception, information, education, shop, restaurant, functions, conferences and events.
As the family lived mostly in the East Wing, the rooms that visitors see in the Rotunda spent much of the year under dust sheets, coming into their own mainly for parties and other special occasions. But as a result, their superb furnishings and decoration have survived in excellent condition and little changed since the heyday of the house in the Edwardian era.
The house, with much of its collections of family portraits, Huguenot silver, Regency furniture and china, and part of the ancient deer-park, passed to the National Trust in 1956.
The East Wing has been transformed into a four star hotel by the hotel company Luxury Family Hotels who lease the East Wing. Until 1997 the East Wing was home to the late 7th Marquis of Bristol who had leased the property from the National Trust.
The hotel has 35 luxury rooms - 11 in the Dower House a separate property situated on the north-west of the estate (opened in autumn 2002) - the hotel complex has three restaurants, a 50ft indoor pool, horse riding facilities and a tennis court.
Ickworth’s 18th-century parkland and gardens include some of the most stunning countryside to be found in East Anglia.
The Park
The extensive 1,800 acres of wooded parkland, created in part by 'Capability' Brown, is a living landscape rich in plant, animal, and bird life. Some parts cultivated and grazed yet much can be explored and enjoyed. Some waymarked field margins may also be walked. Access has been made possible through funding by the Forestry Commission’s Countryside Access scheme.
The Gardens
The gardens surrounding the house were created in the first half of the 19th century by the First Marquess of Bristol. Those in the formal Italian style to the south of the house feature the Gold and Silver Gardens, a Victorian Stumpery and the Temple Rose Garden. A raised terrace walk separates the south garden from the park.
Beyond the church are the remnants of an 18th-century garden created by the First Earl. His summerhouse (circa.1703) and ornamental canal still survive. The kitchen garden, protected by high brick walls, is now a vineyard producing Ickworth wines (available in the National Trust shop).
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