View allAll Photos Tagged Handheld
The "Snow Moon" rising in the east, still showing the colors of a simultaneous sunset and moonrise. A handheld photo, so it's not nearly as detailed as some - but it's great by my standards!
Davis, Ca. Feb. 2022.
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Shot details:
3 subsequent bracketed handheld shots using: Canon 5D Mark III; Canon 17-40mm
Post processing:
1. Lightroom for initial fixups,
2. Merged in HDREfex
3. Last bit of post processing, aka, final touches in Lightroom
Marsaxlokk harbor, Malta, seen in the evening. This photo was taken handheld using crazy high ISO because I had forgotten to bring my tripod, things usually not go as planned on the first day in a new place, as was the case here, but this was a major mistake. At least the boats are not blurred because of long exposure. Happy weekend to everyone.
Can a Maltese speaker please enlighten me about the importance of the double "k"?
Handheld
Tonemapped
cropped
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An old shot taken in Burleigh Heads last year. I had posted a portrait version of it but I probably prefer the landscape view.
Nikon D300 | Sigma 10-20@10mm | ƒ10 | ISO160 | HDR -1/0/+1exp
Visit www.sergioamiti.com for prints
100%...Always Handheld... A true pleasure being here on Flickr with all you guys. Thanks for the visits. denis
Handheld, D750, 24-120f4 at High ISO
#monsoon #kolkata
I captured this video handheld on my #nikond750 just before leaving the city forever.
#saltlake #kolkatagram #westbengal
Kids: Do NOT try this at home....This photo was taken in way less than optimum conditions: low light, handheld (with just one hand), and through the windshield of a moving vehicle. The photo is grainy and not tack sharp but for some reason I still like it. So, I tweaked some of Lightroom's sliders and stopped when I arrived at what you see here. (DSC_8831.jpg)
Contraption for handheld and fast stacking in the field.
Of course only for insects that are not skittish ....
The support where the insect sits does not have to be cut, but in many cases I cut it off. If the insect doesn't buzz off after cutting, you're likely to have a good chance of getting the stack made.
The left hand (1) holds the specimen (4) and rests on a metal tube (3), recovered from an old tripod, about 27cm long. The metal tube slides neatly over a metal rod (2). The rod (2) is 27cm long, sits about 6.5cm under the camera base, 1cm outside its left side and is firmly fixed under the camera (stuff from Wondlan). A second rod (5) carries a ‘magic arm’ with diffusor (6) over the specimen (absolutely needed in bright sunlight).
Shifting the subject goes as follows: i hold the subject in my left hand, between index and thumb. While shifting the subject through the focal plane, my left hand rests on the sliding tube. So left hand and black tube slide together over rod 2. This helps to gain full control over lateral movements that could destroy the composition. It also helps to make steadier - regular shifts.
It didn't take much exercise and this slider is a great help. However, it does add wheight to the camera, but it's a winner since this method doesn't require the need for much heavier tripods and sliding plate, etcetera.
A small rod (7) is placed under the contraption and serves as monopod (12cm); it gives better support to the camera by resting it on the right knee or any other support available.
UPDATE (January 2018) of this rig here: www.flickr.com/photos/andredekesel/8086137225/in/dateposted/
Before you start hunting it is best to train all this on a static subject.
It's also good to have all the camera settings right before bringing the subject in front of the lens. Usually camera settings are like this:
a) The camera is set to continuous shooting, the highest frame rate. The more the better. The Sony A6300 (or A6500) has 11fr/sec, the Sony A7R5 has 10fr/sec.
b) while pressing the button, the specimen is shifted through the focal plane. Because of this movement, you need to use shutter priority and set it to at least 1/160sec or even faster (if light allows). You can also use aperture priority, but then keep an eye on the shutter speed, it should be faster than 1/160sec.
c) With the Sony A6300, A6500 or A7R5 an ISO setting between 200 to 400 gives excellent jpegs. I only shift it higher than 100 if necessary, so only when the resulting aperture is too low 2.8
d) in general i try to get an aperture around f5 and exposure compensation at -0,7 to -1.
e) I shoot with the highest jpeg, and i am only interested in stacks with images of 6000x4000px. Usually the A6300's buffer fills up after 60 images. This means that a complete shift/stack with the A6300 needs to be made in less than 5 seconds. Which is perfectly possible. With the A6500 or A7R5 this is not a problem, the buffer is big enough.
f) So far I have used this technique with the Canon's 100mm & 60mm macro, and also with Sony's FE90mm macro and the Laowa 65mm f/2.8 2X macro APO.
Examples of images made with this setup in the first comment lines
Yup! That's right! I hand held this :-D I also used dodge and burn to take out some sensor dusties! :-D So while this isn't that excellent of a photo, it's been excellent to learn on :-D
.. of this year, unless you adhere to an alternative calendar (other then the Gregorian).
★ In case you live to see another year (some of use won't), I wish you health, connection, meaning and most of all, ..some peace. Cheers!
Backstory: I was out for a proper sunset hunt, doin' all sorts of fancy stuff right beforehand, bracketed telephoto panoramas with the 80-200mm on a tripod etc., but that's all boloney as it turned out. I packed up my gear and was already on the way home as I recognized this much simpler cleaner composition, the colors turned up a notch as well with the clouds now producing a nice transition. So I quickly popped on the 28-50mm and took a few shots, handheld, as a bonus I thought, yet these emerged to be the main harvest of the evening :)
Nikon D750 (FX / full frame)
Zoom-NIKKOR 28-50mm f/3.5 AI-S
ISO100, 50mm, f/8, 1/100sec (-0.7EV)
single photo, handheld, enthusiasm