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*Disclaimer: I do not own Castlevania, Symphony of the Night, or the characters portrayed. Those belong to Konami.
My interpretation of the relative height between Alucard, Richter, and Maria.
A few photos back on this photostream, I posted an infrared image of part of San Francisco Bay taken from one of its bounding ridge tops. This comparison is a nice demonstration of IR's haze-penetrating property; the bottom photo was taken at the same place and time with my "normal" camera, a Nikon Z6.
This is a size comparison with my new Bandai Hello Kitty. She is smack dab in-between the baby and child size Sylvanian Families.
Porcelain Beauty Kesenia, Shake It Up Korinne, and Style Mantra Eden. To the naked eye, Korinne seems just the slightest bit more pink, but that may just be a batch variation. Kesenia and Korinne look the same to the camera
Four of the visitors to the garden over just a few minutes one evening. If my identification skills are to be trusted, from left to right, we have a Honeybee, a Buff-Tailed Bumblebee, an Early Bumblebee and a Common Carder bee.
All taken on a full spectrum D70 at f16 but with various shutter speeds.
If I learned anything from this experiment it's that my gear needs a jolly good cleaning!
So here there is Euclase and Chalco.
I had no space for him on the table in the previous photo XD
Euclase is taller, of course ;)
The LEGO community here and elsewhere has a lot of talented miniature photographers. One thing I"ve seen though, and this ranges from the real newbies right up to some of the greats, is that hardly anyone uses polarizing filters in their shots. LEGOs are made of ABS and PC plastic - very shiny and reflective. You gain a great amount of control over your composition when you can direct the light a little better than just a normal shot. So here I've thrown up some almost-straight-from-the-camera shots. Both of these are using the filter, but the angle is adjusted. Quite a difference.
With the simple angles of many LEGO shoots, you can get similar effects with photoshop. But not all the time, and not in the same way, and not without a little effort. Pro-tip: get a polarizing filter.
I live in a building that's built exactly like this one. Ten floors, and a sky like this still makes it look like an anthill. Amazing.
It happens that I ask myself about this point, wether is worth or not to make HDRs on "regular" pics (i.e. ordinary daylife subjects, not necessarily *amazing subjects in terrific places*).
This is a comparison between single shot and 3 shots HDR. I took this pics while waiting for winter tires change on my car, so I had time to vaste...
After looking to this results, the point probably becames different: do I have time and attitude to make HDRs of any subject ? Probably not, but this is another question :-))
2 shots to compare my Fuji HS10 with the Fuji HS50 EXR which I bought this spring.
I've used it long enough now to know it's not operator error. The IS and the AF are simply not as good. I have not gotten one shot with the same clarity as the HS 10.
Buying a camera is a crap shoot.
i need to -0.3 the flash because the umbrella allow more lights through.
The shadow is abit harsh. But the result doesn't justify the 1/4 price.
EXIF
ISO: 100
Shutter: 1/60
Aperture: f5
The competition between Mac and Windows PC/Laptops is on from years. While a Windows laptop or PC is referred to an electronic device using Windows as the Operating system, Mac, on the other hand, refers to the Macintosh PCs and laptops running on the Mac OS. Mac systems are owned by Apple exclusively. Both have different benefits and specifications which often makes a hard choice for the users to decide whether- Mac or Windows laptop. So, to make things easier, let’s go for a comparison between the different aspects of both systems.
The first shot was taken at the University of New Hamsphire and the latter in Seattle last month.
Used in my blog on April 11, 2010 [LINK]
I comment about my life and opinions in my eJournal and images every single day.
Comparison of a gameworn 1984 Falcons helmet and the 1994 ProLine throwback. The plastic shell has a slight pinkish hue and does not match the deeper scarlet of the vintage red Falcons helmets. There are slight differences in the die cut around the bird and an even slighter difference in the shape of the bird's eye, but they are nearly identical.
Same hummingbird, but dramatic difference in the presentation of the red gorget. If you ignore the minor exposure differences, there might be more than 5 stops between the dark and bright presentation.
Screenshots (at 200%) showing the amount of debris needing to be cleaned off the slide. The red lines on the "After" are because I typically divide the image into sections and work on it one section at a time; at 6200dpi, 200%., this results in 32-33 sections to be cleaned.
The damage you see here was by no means the worst of it. Typically, slides will exhibit the worst damage around the edges, I think because they are not actually flat in the slide-mount but slightly bowed, so dirt tends to slide downhill, so to speak, to the edges. This comparison is from the middle of the slide where damage should be at its lowest level. The very thin scratches (for example, on the nose) are the hardest to deal with, and the new Photoshop tool does a good job of removing them. The only other thing of note is that I probably worked a little too aggressively on the face and may have to do it again. On the other hand, the entire image exhibits a slight motion blur, so this may already be the limit of what can be achieved.
Friend asked for a comparison of the the 3 fairyland bodies I own.
From left to right:
Minife Rheia on the m-line boy body (WS)
Minifee Celine on the F-line body with the male chest (NS)
Personally I find the m-line body to be the best poser and the most stable. However, I really enjoy the aesthetic of the f-line body.
Original on the left, finished product on the right. I took three shots of this knothole, the first two much closer than this one so I wouldn't have to crop. But this one came out better.
The first two, I concentrated on setting the focus first on the near surface, and secondly on the far surface. I didn't care for the far surface focus effect, and the center light was all gone. I got a bit more even exposure in this version, then cropped it to the original scene I had in mind.
So i wanted to do a comparison of the expo disc for anyone who is on the fence of buying one.
Here is a side by side shot of my kitchen. These are straight out of the camera.
On the left is my D700 on Auto White Balance and on the left is after using the Expo Disc in the Custom White Balance.
HUGE difference i must say! Well worth it.
Just a note, i had my custom WB setting as "D-1" at first instead of the "D-0" and it was producing terrible results. If you do get one make sure you realize whats going on with your custom WB first.