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So this is actually kind of fun I guess. This is my C41, color film workflow so far. It's been a bit of trial and error trying to maintain a consistent 102F for 3.5 min.
This is how I do it so far. Put water in this pot just enough to cover the 250ml of liquids in the measuring cups. Put pot on stove with flame on high to get a good rolling boil. Once it gets boiling, reduce flame to medium. When the temp in cups gets to about 95F, turn off heat otherwise the temp gets too hot and it takes longer to cool off than to heat up. Remove cups from water when they reach 102F. First step is just water for 1 min to heat up film and tank. This helps maintain temp for developer. 2nd, developer for 3.5 min. Developer will cool to about 95F in that amount of time which isn't good. So I put the tank in the water pot in between agitations. Keeps the temp from falling too fast. 3rd step is the bleach/ fix (blix) for 6.5 min. The good thing is that you can be between 95 and 105F for this step. 4th is wash for 1 min followed by stabilizer for 1.5 min. Done!
Also, I have always used Kodak black and white developers like HC110, D76 and Xtol for b&w film. To shake things up a bit and keep it interesting, I got some Rodinal. Never used it before and still haven't. Good times. This is definitely a labor of love.
Update: Roll number 3 following this method turned out some funky greenish colors on Portra 160. Not sure why. I'll keep this photo updated.
Cannes is a city located on the French Riviera. It is a commune located in the Alpes-Maritimes department, and host city of the annual Cannes Film Festival, Midem, and Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity. The city is known for its association with the rich and famous, its luxury hotels and restaurants, and for several conferences. On 3 November 2011 it hosted the 2011 G20 summit [Wikipedia.org]
Take a look at this week’s featured workflow, by Luís Miguel Braga. To be honest, this is the most comprehensive workflow we’ve seen so far (... read more)
Uploaded via tarpipe.
I got inspired into some intense nerding this week. The above is a peek into the results. For more, check out the writeup on my blog.
Capsule summary: you can make an image have pretty much any histogram you like, with a little perl code—even a histogram that resembles the image itself. What you see here is:
1. An unaltered image of Miami.
2. The histogram of that image.
3. A new desired histogram made by tracing the silhouette of the skyline in the source image.
4. An altered version of the source image, which has the desired histogram.
Man was that fun to pull off.
JPEGMini Pro is an integral part of my digital photography workflow. Read all about it in an upcoming article on the blog: hikinginfinland.com
This view shows the various stages of my scenery building. Cardboard strips fill in the space between fascia, track, and backdrop. These strips are covered with drywall tape, which I then paint tinted plaster of paris over. After a couple of coats, or however many I think are needed, static grass and other foliage is added.
When a physician sees a person with 10 or 20 medications and they need to do renewals that will be expiring before the next visit, I can take some mental effort to get it alright and avoid unnecessary phone calls asking for renewals prior to the next visit.
These are fairly typical steps in the process of doing that renewal review and completion.
This screenshot deconstructs by 365 day 31... I've never worked with textures before, but I decided that this image would benefit a textural addition.
1. I opened the original image in Ps, increased the exposure to make it a bit brighter (cancelled out by the new textures so it came back to its original exposure).
2. Opened the texture I got online and pulled it onto my image, using the soft light blending mode. I created a mask and masked off my face to keep it relatively clear (the brush had a 40% opacity I believe)
3. After doing that, I felt it looked better with a bit more contrast, so I made an S-Curve in the curves layer, and bumped the vibrance because I wanted to try the overlay blend on top on the soft light texture.
4. Same texture on the top, only in overlay blending mode, at 70% opacity, then masked out my face again on the forehead and "front" of the face to make it look like I was emerging. Again used a lower opacity on the masking brush, about 50%.
Final Shot here.
Hope this helps! I'm not claiming to be any sort of expert, that was just how I did it. This is far more processing that I usually do, I like Zack Arias' philosophy (well, I heard it from him) that you gotta get it right in camera.
...and if you have any ideas/feedback on how you'd do it, I'd love to hear!
Take a breath & pause, press the shutter, work on it some more & post it, hope that people see what you see #passion #skill #hardworkpaysoff
My current workflow, stitched together from my usual spaces layout and labeled via pen tablet. The first frame is a recent addition (April 2012) to include video-related software.
Ah how I miss leopard. Lion is super annoying.
I'll have to post a workflow chart of my other computer, 2007 "Music Production" Macbook Pro
Here is the Workflow to get the Matcap Material from zBrush to mental Ray material:
norman3d.com/blog/?p=11#more-11
Thanks Norman, I've max 2010 and it's a little bit easier:
- Screenshot from your Zbrush Material, crop and save it.
- from he Norman's tutorial:
"Change the “Default Scanline Renderer” to mentalray. Open the Material Editor and pick a default material. Change the Self Illumination value to 100. Now you can click on the diffuse slot and pick the “mr Gray Ball” map. In the “Gray Ball Image” slot you will have to put the Shading Map you grabbed earlier."
The part with *.mi file can be ignore in 2010. The correct/actual name i have for the "Gray ball Image map" is "Environment Probe/Gray Ball (mi)". For this example I didn't use a standard material but a Arch&Design material with a normal map. It works fine.
Info about the pic above.
#1 Picture of the model from zBrush
#2 Same Model in 3ds max with the new material method
#3 Lighting für mental ray
#4 Compositing in Photoshop with AO and Zdepth
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