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This is a visual of one way to improve dark eyes. There are several other things you can do including using a hue/sat adjustment layer combined with it's mask to eliminate color in the whites of the eyes. It's not shown here. LARGE IN SEPARATE WINDOW
So I finally completed a tutorial on the tree technique used in some of latest MOCs and you can find it here:
Feel free to let me know what you think of it, and if there's anything that can be improved upon. Hope you will like it and find it useful :)
Planning on making a few more tutorials that some of you have requested, now that I have some time, so keep an eye out for them :)
Few people were interested about the 'acrylic' fake nails I made for my Zero, so I decided to make a tutorial so everyone can make their dolls some fancy nails.
You can make any kinds of fake nails with this method, and maybe use other material than straw, but I this is just how I do it.
Hope this is helpful!
This is an updated version of one of the first quilts I made. Measurements and a quick tutorial are posted here if you'd like to make a similar one!
1. First, you will need:
wire, about 24" (I find 22 and 24 gauge to work best)
various buttons
face image(collage sheets, photos, clip art, etc)
wings(collage or clip art images, drawn, clay, shrink plastic, etc)
wire cutters
card stock
glue
scissors
2/3. First, decide how much of the picture you wish to use and how you want to place it with the wings. I decided to use just the face for this one. I like to glue the wings and face to a piece of cardstock to make it a little stronger, then cut them out.
4. Next, I like to lay out my buttons to get an idea of what combination I like.
If you liked my bridge from Tōzoku Hideout, then should find this tutorial useful.
Check it out on Brickbuilt!
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I forgot to add that before you flatten the image, you can also reduce the opacity on the layer....sorry! :)
6 more designs explained in our latest tutorial.
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There is a tutorial of my pine trees used in my recent built up on Brickbuilt if you are interested!
Our latest tutorial covers the techniques used in this tower from my Fabled Fortress of Al-Danah model.
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Do you know how to add stars to an empty night sky in Photoshop? Do you have a full sized Milky Way image to use in such cases? On my blog I've created a quick tutorial with step-by-step instructions on adding stars to skies and I've included a free, full-sized Milky Way photo for you to use
www.throughstrangelenses.com/2013/06/11/tutorial-adding-s...
How to make a lomo vignette in photoshop... one way to do it
images can be found at www.soffia.net/tutorialll.html
First of all, open a photo you want to add a lomo vignette to
1. Go to Layers - new fill layer - gradient...
2. Name it lomo - click OK
3. you get a window up there:
Style: Radial
Reverse and Align with layer should be checked.
3. Gradient: (image 01) As seen in image 02, choose forground to transparent. Left color
stop should be black and white in right color stop. Left Opacity stop is 80% and right
is 0% ( image 02)
4. Change the layer to overlay (image 03)
You got a lomo effect, you can play with the numbers as you like, and somethimes I erase
part of the lomo layer if it´s too dark at places I want to be light. Like in this
photo, I want the lower right corner to be light, cause I like the marks in the sand.
*TIP* I use a soft brush and often with 60 - 80 % tranparent to erase parts of the lomo
effect.
(Another way is to go to Filter - distort - lens correction. There you can tweek the vignette settings)
He desmenuzado la dodecabola (la he llamado así por tener doce piezas, como el dodecaedro, que tiene 12 caras...) por si alguien la quiere hacer:
www.flickr.com/photos/alia_h/4011510370/in/photostream/
La idea no es mía, pero algunas personas me han preguntado por la forma de hacerla. Se necesitan 12 flores, pero se puede hacer igual con 12 bolas, y 11 bastones. Vamos allá:
1) Hay un bastón central donde van la flor nº 1 y la 12, pero vamos por partes: se mete la primera y se pone de pie sobre la mesa.
2) Al resto de bastones se les pone su flor y se les hace la anilla. Se cogen cinco y se enfilan en el bastón que tienes de pie, se dejan caer y se ponen bien colocaditos, formando como una corona.
3) Se cogen los cinco siguientes y se hace lo mismo, acomodándolos en los huecos de los cinco anteriores.
4) Por último, se mete la flor nº 12 en el bastón que hace de eje, y se cierra con una anilla para colgarlo.
Si sobre la marcha se ve que se van quedando la bola un poco chafada, se pueden insertar chafas o pequeñas bolas en el bastón central, entre las anillas de las flores.
step one: extrude strands of the desired thickness in your chosen colour and cut lengths of about 2.5 cm with a craft knife or a tissue blade.
step 2: take one of the cut lengths and push the ends together to form a loop. repeat.
group the loops together as shown.
step 3: take a length of extruded clay and lay it across the group of loops as shown.
step 4: using the back of the blade deeply indent the clay making sure the indents are aligned with the centre of the loop.
step 5: i flatten the tails of the loops with a cocktail stick. this ensures each line of loops will lie reasonably flat. if you are making long lines you will need to do
this bit at a time. be carfull you dont mark the 'stitches' with your fingers/nails as you roll the cocktail stick.
repeat steps 1 to 5
step 6: place one line of stitches overlapping the flattened tails of the loops.
you can use this effect on its own or experiment with knitted cables, plaits etc.
if you have any questions or anything seems unclear please dont hesitate to ask : )
Hi Bee's
No Fofurice Rules tem Nail Art de corujinha, super TENDÊNCIA!
Muito fofinha :3
No post eu também falo sobre a caneta mais cobiçada do mundo HAHAH
Pra conferir o post é só clicar: FOFURICE RULES ♥
Ou ir direto ao vídeo:TUTORIAL ♥
Qualquer dúvida só falar,
XOXO ♥
_______________________________________________________________________________
@deborawernke (\_(\
If you like it here's a beginning to either finish or experiment. If you'll notice the strip in the photo, it shows before the process.
1. Duplicate background layer twice (command/control + j twice will do it).
2. Click, choosing "Layer 1", and go Image > Adjustment > Desaturate (Or make it black and white anyway you want to).
3. Click and choose "Layer 1 copy" and put that in "softlight" blending mode using the Layer Pallet drop down menu.
4. Go to the Channels Pallet and command/control click the RGB channel, getting a highlights selection.
5. Go back to the Layer Pallet and "Layer 1 copy" should still be chosen ( You can tell it's chosen because it'll be highlighted with some color), and again do command/control + j. This creates "Layer 2" from your selection and it's in "softlight" blending mode.
6. Go back to Channels pallet and command/control click the RGB layer, getting the highlights selection again. Invert the selection by either going to Select > Inverse or use the keyboard shortctu of command/control + shift + i
7. Add a hue/saturation adjustment layer and set the saturation to +50 and Lightness of -10.
I've created an action at www.allangengler.com/my_actions if you're interested. BUT do it manually first so you can see the effects and maybe try creating your own action.
Three more door designs are explained in the latest tutorial on Brickbuilt!
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Here's a tutorial for the cape I used on my RA fig. I left the camo part out, but basically you just splotch camo colors together until it looks good. ;)
New tutorial up!
Check it out on Brickbuilt.
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Patrick B. shares his wooden wall technique in our latest Guest Tutorial on brickbuilt: tutorial link.
After a 20 month silence, dipping my toe nervously back into blogland... tutorial now posted here: listentothebirdssing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/bunnypouchtut...
If you like this one I have written 3 other tutorials which you can find >> here <<
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Some of you have been asking what I have been talking about when I've said that I've been using pixel blending to improve the exposure on some of my photos. Well here is the second of my attempts at writing a tutorial, this time on using "Pixel Blending".
I'm afraid this tutorial is only of use to those of you who shoot their images in RAW (and use Photoshop CS2), but if this applies to you or you're just interested please have a look through my tutorial in the comments section below. Any criticism or comments are welcome (I'm not an expert and always like hearing about new techniques)
Here is the other tutorial I have written if you want to look at that.
Nothing like a steep learning curve that has you almost vertical. More than a handful of false starts but with very little determent. Got to animate it next. I love this! And I can only get better!
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Some other albums of mine I hope you'll enjoy:
Bokeh
Twitter ID: erraticspace
Tumblr ID: space-rbo
Instagram (opens in same page!)
Instagram: My cat + friends
Instagram: Me - Non-cat stuff.
Three more window designs are covered in this tutorial on Brickbuilt.
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Here you can see the original photo and the color correction one, with all the RAW parameters. Hope you find this helpful.
Best View Original Size.
Here its the photo in full size
Photos from other people using this tutorial:
Clowning around by Nikonographer
mandolin LM green by adderall_223
If you use this tutorial on your photos it would be nice to add them here :), so let me know!
For the interested who did not see picture one and two...
This is going to be my first visual tutorial about consciousness and awareness.
It is very easy because the pictures will speak for themselves.
Without words you will understand, what it all means.
Maybe you discover something very important for yourself... :-)))
If you like, ask yourself what you see and how you see.
Next picture tomorrow.
HKD
More furniture designs are explained in our latest guide on Brickbuilt!
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Se necesita 70 cm de alambre de 2mm de diametro.
Le debo este descubrimiento a Paula -Cruz, muchísimas gracias Paula , tu si que eres Super¡¡¡¡¡¡¡
Este tutorial también se lo dedico a calabacina www.flickr.com/photos/29534130@N04
Maria José, se merece esto y más, un beso.
I've seen so many photgraphs with really obvious problems that are difficult to fix, so I created a tutorial about one way to "blend" photographs semi-automated using Photoshop and the awesome masking abilities that many people are not familiar with.
One secret is that you can use this technique with 2 (or 3) versions of the same RAW file so that if you did not bracket the shot, you can still improve it using this technique.
Hope this helps.... maybe more will follow showing other techniques I employ on almost every image you see here....
-John
A big thankyou to everyone for visiting! This photo has 158'000 views, and 350 favorites!
Welcome to my photostream! I hope you enjoy this tutorial and my photos. To read more about this photo and why its edited the way it is, scroll to the bottom of the tutorial. Please leave a comment if you visit! :)
Note: Below tutorial was written for Photomatix Pro 2.22. Photomatix latest software version has similar but slightly different settings.
About this photo:
This photo was taken out of the train, speeding through the Dutch countryside. I decided I wanted to try something new. A lot of my HDRs are bright and very saturated with colour. I wanted to go for the darker more ominous look, close to black and white, but not completely, still showing a hint of colour. I think it turned out nicely. Because of the strong tonemapping settings I got pretty much noise, but I also decided to leave that, because it gives the photos something rough and old looking, which I find fits to the colours and darkness.
How to succesfully make a HDR from 1 JPG
Would you buy an expensive DSLR, expensive lenses, and lots of filters, when you can get similar effects with just a cheap compact camera and cheap tripod?
Ok, I must admit, there are a few more benefits of having a DSLR verses compact, but still, for the beginning or budget photographer, you can do a lot with software and a reasonable compact camera. This is supposed to be a tutorial about making HDRs (High Dynamic Range Photos), so let me get back to the point. You may know that for HDR images, you need to take multiple photos, of multiple exposures. If you want to know more about creating HDRs in general, I suggest you also read my HDR & Photomatix tutorial. Of course everything that you want to photograph in that way has to stand perfectly still, or you will have exposures that don't "fit" over eachother. Of course sometimes this effect is nice, such as in this example from Altus: Ethereal Skating.
But if you want a HDR of a person or car that's moving by, and you want it to be sharp, in focus as in a normal photo, its impossible to do it with multiple exposures. So you may have seen some of the HDRs that were created from 1 RAW image... Another nice example from Altus, also about skating and also one of my faves is this one: Tokyo Transition. This was made from 1 RAW photo, shot with a camera that supports RAW. Software is used to extract multiple exposures from the RAW file, and then you can use your favourite program to turn those exposures into a HDR.
But I dont have enough money to buy a DSLR that can shoot RAW...
So lets say that you don't have a camera that can shoot RAW and don't have the money or dont want
to spend the money on a new one, like me, there are other options. I thought, why cant I create HDRs from 1 jpeg? I know its not RAW, but its worth a try... (before you try this, read the whole tutorial)
1. I opened my photo in Photoshop.
2. I pressed control + M to get the "curves" tool, and made the photo a lot brighter.
3. I saved the image with a different name next to the original.
4. I undid the curves, with Control + Alt + Z.
5. I did the curves again, but instead of making the photo brighter, I made it darker.
6. I saved the image again next to the two other exposures.
7. I opened all three exposures in Photomatix, and generated and tonemapped the HDR image.
8. It worked! Yay!
But is that the end of this tutorial?
In fact you are still sortof creating 3 jpgs... And its a lot of work... And is Photoshop actually creating detail in silhouettes or blow out highlights? No... It cant do that, you cant just magically create detail where your camera captured nothing... Is Photoshop lightening too dark areas that still show detail? Or darkening areas that are just a little bit overexposed? Yes... And what does Photomatix do in comparism? Maybe you have noticed before that the HDR result is exposed even better or more equally than the darkest or lightest exposure you fed into it... (depending on your settings of course) Even if you really photographed three different exposures. So Photomatix brightens and darkens as well. It doesnt just combine.
The tonemapping of Photomatix is a pretty strong tool to get some detail back into over or underexposed images, as long as there is detail in the first place. It wont turn a totally black silhouette into visible detail, and the same goes for a blown out overexposed white spot...
Now that we know that first creating several exposures in Photoshop is not required, as this is basically the same thing that Photomatix does with its tonemapping, our list of steps changes to:
1. Open the photo in Photomatix.
2. Open the photo again in Photomatix.
3. Generate and tonemap the HDR!
So that saves you a lot of trouble and work! And who wants to do unneccesary work?
To save even more time you can copy and paste all your photos in the same folder to create copies, and then drag the original and copy into Photomatix right away, instead of having to open the same image twice. Deleting all the copies afterwards doesnt take as much time as opening each photo twice in Photomatix.
But are the tonemapping settings the same?
Not always. Of course the settings depend completely on the result you wish to achieve. But in short, you have to do a few things to make sure not to get too much noise, and saturation. Apparently when working with 1 jpg, the noise and saturation get a lot higher than when I use three "real" separate exposures.
Try the following settings in Photomatix:
Luminosity: between -2 and +2
Strength: between 30% and 60%
Saturation: between 30% and 50%
White clip: set slider about halfway
Black clip: set slider about 1/10th from the left.
Smoothing: High!!! This is really important...
To reduce noise and halos:
Smoothing should be on high (reduces noise and halos) and
luminosity should be 2 or lower. Higher luminosity reduces halos, but
creates a lot of noise. The lower you set the general Strength, the less
noise and halos.
I hope you have enjoyed this tutorial, and I hope it will yield some nice results. Finally you can take HDR shots with your cheap compact camera straight from your bike or out of your car window whilst driving past something! Or you can pay attention to traffic of course! :)
For more tutorials written about HDR, Photoshop, and lighting, click here...