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I followed a Julieanne Kost tutorial the other day and somehow I must have missed a step because it wasn't supposed to be quite like this. One day I will start again but in the meantime I thought I'd keep this anyway, I quite liked it.
These are 10 images of mine, severely cropped after applying 2 blur filters.
…Or how to squeeze flowers into those teeny-weenie drops
I’ve had several people text me about the earlier “Drops of Art (Carney)” post and that they appreciated the explanation of how refractions works. Some requested additional information about creating water drop photos, so I’m posting this older photo and original tutorial:
I have always been drawn to nature and wildlife photography. I love taking my camera way up north to capture images of seldom-seen animals and exotic scenery. Unfortunately, we can’t always plan distant adventures to shoot photographs of moose and northern lights. But we can train our eyes to find the unexpected beauty in our own backyards.
My fascination (some might call it an obsession) with water drops began when I bought a Nikon D200 last summer. Sadly, the lens I wanted was out of stock. There was no way I was going to just look at my camera body while I waited, so I picked up a Nikkor 60mm macro. Through that lens I discovered worlds of complexity hidden within the simplest tiny drops of water.
I’m often asked if the images inside the water drops are real or the product of Photoshop. Let me assure you they are real, and anyone can find them if they know how to look. Simple physics produces these tiny, beautiful and common images. Water is cohesive, it naturally bonds together in the shape of a sphere, and in that shape it functions as a miniature lens that will refract nearby objects. Using that organic lens as seen through your technological lens, will allow you to explore those tiny, complex worlds.
The water drop photos on my stream have been the result of an evolutional process. My most viewed, most faved and most interesting photo (according to flickr) was taken almost by luck, lying flat on my belly using a Diet Coke can as tripod. But after a great deal of trial and error, I’ve come up with a few simple, consistent steps for more easily creating a water drop photograph.
1. Focus
2. Focus
3. Composition
4. Background
1. Focus: No, that's not a typo; focus is listed twice, and for a very good reason. It’s necessary to consider the focus of the water drop itself as well as the focus of the subject displayed within the drop. My initial concern is the water drop itself and the plant on which the drop is located. I like to set my camera to aperture priority to control the depth of field. The trick is to have enough depth of field so the drop and the plant (and maybe some nearby drops) are all in focus, while leaving the background sufficiently blurred so it doesn't compete for attention. I generally use f8 to f10 but I’ll sometimes stop down to f18 if the background does not need as much blur. I also find I get a sharper focus by backing away just a little and cropping the photo, rather than getting as close as possible in an attempt to get maximum magnification.
2. Focus: As seen in the example above, the water drop is in focus as is the image of the flower seen through the water drop, but the flower itself is not in focus. That effect is achieved not by adjusting the camera, but by relying on the water drop to act as a fixed focal lens. In other words, instead of adjusting the camera I adjust the object I want to appear within the water drop. I simply move it back or forward until I've found the clarity of focus I want. Some photos look better with blurred refractions. For the greatest clarity I've found the object should be 3-4 inches behind the water drop. This, of course, may vary if using a different macro lens. Be sure to experiment.
3. Composition: Obviously, the guidelines for good composition apply to water drop photographs. Attention should be given to the Rule of Thirds, to simplicity, to the geometry within the frame, and to all the usual elements of visual composition. It's important to remember, though, when photographing water drops that the very shape of the drop influences compositional decisions. Since the lens of the water drop is spherical (or nearly so), slight adjustments in the camera position…left, right, up, down…can have a radical effect on what is seen within the drop. Again, experiment.
4. Background: If you're working from nature, your control over the background is necessarily limited. You have to work with what you've got. As mentioned earlier, the unique qualities of the organic lens formed by a drop of water allows you to make minor adjustments in the camera position that will have a profound effect on what's seen within the drop. With a few simple props, you can gain better control over the background. For example, I often rely on a large sheet of insulation, which is bright blue on one side. I originally used it to block the wind, but noticed that even on the dreariest of days it can mimic a perfect azure sky.
Other Considerations: Almost every time I set out to take photographs of water drops, I learned something new. There was always some new factor to consider. I learned, for example, I could get bigger, more cohesive and more interesting drops on humid days. I discovered that even the slightest wind could have disastrous effects on macro focusing, as well as on the water drops themselves. I found that very slightly adjusting the exposure (-0.3EV to –0.7EV) would compensate for the natural sheen of the surface of the water drop, keeping it from being somewhat burnt out. Most important, I had to teach myself to remember that because a water drop acts as an organic lens, it presents everything upside down and in reverse (just like a pinhole camera or a large format camera).
So now I’m one of the few people who looks forward to really still, stifling, humid days. And even though my beautiful Nikkor 18-200mm has arrived, I still have my macro on more than half the time. Water drop photos are not only real, but also addicting to try to master.
That's it. That's how it's done. It's as simple as learning how chess pieces move, and just as complex as a game of chess. Good luck and think small.
Thanks!
Steve
Que feliz!!! Hj o flickr colaborou comigooo.
Mel, esse é especial para vc! É o look do amigo oculto. Finalmente.. Rs...
Para ler, no tamanho grande fica melhor. Não tá gigante pq não tem muitos detalhes, então não precisa!
BEIJOS
Dec 12
Well since I didn't feel like ordering a bunch of legos flashmasks a decided to try to make my own.
You will need:
-Green stuff (or something like it)
-A thin but hard plastic sheet
-A stud
-A lego head to sculpt on
This is how you can do it for yourself step by step:
1-Cut of the antistud-ring part of a stud.
2-Glue a thin piece of plastic on top of the ring on the side you cut.
(to prevent the sculpting material to get in the antistud)
3-Put it onto a lego head (tip is to take a scrappy head and glue a stud underneath to make it easier to remove it afterwards and then put lots of oil(for example olive oil) on top of the head)
4-Make a thin pretty rough sculpt around the head.
5-Cut out the eye parts and the underline of the mask and sand it.
(sculpt again if needed)
6-Remove it from the head. (It won't stick to the head if ypu use the oil on the head)
7-Paint it as you want.
(8-Add other details to it. You can use for example a hard, thin plasticsheet or just sculpt)
Hope you feel inspired :)
Comment if you did get inspired and what you think of it.
This helmet is not done for what I'm going to use it for. :P
I've posted a tutorial on how I photoshopped this image on my blog at cymagen.blogspot.com/2007/01/anatomy-of-psd-part-1.html
This is actually really old but yesterday I noticed I never posted it, so here it is, a tutorial on light stencils.
This tutorial is done in Photoshop CS3, and you need some basic knowlegde to follow it. The numbers are the exact ones I used.
Step by step snapshots at www.soffia.net/tutorial.html
1. I duplicade the layer twise, on one layer I erase out carefully the mountain with soft eraser, opacity 100 flow around 60. (you can also use masks) One layer is just to have the photo as it is.
2. Name the layers ( image01) mountains, clouds and just_in_case_layer.
3. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 8 ~ 0,73 ~ 200
4. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again but this time choose Brightness/Contrast. and put in -12 for brightness and contr. -28 (Image03)
5. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again and choose Hue/Saturation. (Image 04)
take up saturation to 22
6. For now, I´m fairly happy with the mountains, so now I drag the Clouds layer on top of all the layers. (Image 05)
7. Then I merge the mountains with all the adjustment layers by selecting all the layers, and choose merge layers (Image 06)Name the Layer mountains again if it´s called hue/saturation.
8. Now we can work on the clouds, you can turn off the mountains layer by clicking on the eye on the left. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 18 ~ 0,84 ~ 215
9. I want a little more contrast in the big cloud so duplicade the clouds layer, name it cloud-contrast go to Image - Adjustment - Levels. Use 59~ 0,64~ 195. The reason why I choose levels from there is cause I only want it to affect the new cloud layer(Image 07)
10. with the cloud-contrast layer picked, go to Image - Adjustment - Brightness/Contrast and put brightness to +36 and contrast +17
11. I find the cloud too red, so go to Image - Adjustment - hue/saturation, in Edit: choose
Reds and take the saturation down to -42. After that I rease around it so the layer would look like this (Image 08)
12. Let´s go to the Clouds layer again, Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Brightness/Contrast. put in +45 for brightness (Image03)
13. Go to create new fill or adjustment layer (Image 04) and choose Hue/Saturation. In Edit:
Blues hue: -13 sat: -67
Cyans hue: -10 sat: -57 (or tweek the numbers untill you´re happy with the colors......)
15. Merge the layers by selecting Cloud-contrast,clouds and the all the adjustment layers(image 06) (you can also select the layers and hit Ctrl + E )
16. Turn on the Mountains Layer. Flatten image. Then I did some more adjucstment with hue/sat, cyan -9 and -39 then blues -4 and -22 and Yelloes -35. And then I went to levels and did 8 ~ 1,16 ~ 255.
17. Then I put the lomo gradient fill with 40 % opacity on that layer
I did use the clone stamp to erase out a part of the sky, the dark bottom part... :P
And finally I ran it through Neat Image, a software I bought the other day. neatimage.com/
I could probably spend another hour tweeking and tuning. But let´s say this done for now.
This Bunny was based on this tutorial: tutsplus.
It took me a little while - and now I see that I have chosen the wrong export cmyk instead of rgb. UPDATED: its changed back to the right colors :-)
1 » foto original;
2 » Selecione o rosto sem selecionar olhos, boca e narinas;
3 » Após selecionar, copie (ctrl+c), cole (ctrl+v) e duplique a camada colada (ctrl+j). Na cama da meio, aplique um desfoque gaussiano (Menu Filtro/Desfoque/Desfoque gaussiano/5,0 OK). Na última camada (a de cima), você vai aplicar uma alta frequencia (Menu Filtro/Outros/Alta Frequencia - high pass/1,5 OK). A imagem ficará cinza, então mude para sobrepor (overlay) e una as camadas. Obs.: Caso precise arrumar alguma coisa que ficou "embaçada demais", vá na camada do desfoque gaussiano e passe uma borracha macia com uma opacidade baixa.
4 » Boca: Selecione a boca e vá em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida. Escolha uma cor que fique boa pra boca e clique em OK. Caso fique borrado, é só usar a borracha macia (sempre usando a borracha macia =))
5 » Como fica a camada =)
6 » Olhos (oba!): Os olhos são que nem a boca. Você seleciona onde você quer a sombra e o lápis. Nesse passo, fiz o lápis e o delineador. Junto à foto tem as camadas. =)
7 » Mesma coisa. Selecione os olhos e pinte com o preenchimento de camada. Caso precise, dê um desfoque gaussiano pra ficar mais realista e tire um pouco da opacidade ou use a borracha, também. Mudei a cor dos olhos, também. Deixei mais viva a cor. É o mesmo passo. =)
8 » Como os olhos ficaram e o blush, que é a mesma coisa. Selecione as maçãs do rosto e vão em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida/Escolha a cor OK e tire a opacidade. Será necessário dar uma desfocada (ctrl+f, caso tenha sido o último filtro que você usou =))
9 » Resultado.
Espero que tenham gostado e que eu tenha ajudado! hehe.
Qualquer dúvida, perguntem! =D
about b/w conversions - dedicated to Colormaniac too, who brought up the subject. Link: [youtu.be/XA0Of0QMtIs]
I've got a little good news under the stars here in New Zealand for you all on a rather dreary week! I don't know if you've seen my two recent videos on "Despair" and "Anxiety" - but in one of them I mentioned that a great way to escape from your own crazy-monkey mind is to help other people!
I'm not saying this is a self-congratulatory way, but just because it's kinda cool and maybe it will help others be outward-focused as well! First, if you're bored at home, why not learn photography, eh? I took my best Beginning Photography course, filmed here in New Zealand, and made it TOTALLY FREE - people seem to love it and Stu says we have over $50,000 worth of downloads already - that's awesome and I hope you all are enjoying it.
Link below...
Also, I want to send a shout out to my friends over at Monday.com for helping out with a new information-sharing initiative that's just about to get started here in NZ that should help with the COVID-19 sitch.
Besides all that stuff, I'm gonna make some more videos here in the next several days... people seem interested in these topics: 1) conspiracy theories and why you shouldn't believe them 2) my full death experiences and why I'm not afraid to die 3) what kind of evolved society will emerge after this 4) what the heck I get up to on a daily basis in solo isolation 5) ways to thrive and create in this new paradigm... and more!
I may even make some fun videos with good 'ol Gino. Hey man I have a lot of spare time and I can't play video games ALLLL day!!
store.stuckincustoms.com/collections/tutorials/products/b...
Ever wondered how to build good tudor style walls?
Check out our latest tutorial by Titus V. on brickbuilt.
In this advanced Photoshop tutorial I will show you how to create a nice floating woman in a forest. We will turn the forest from day to night effect in Photoshop and we will mask the sky using Calculations. We will create realistic depth of field using a Depth Map and we’ll paint realistic hair and light effects.
Tutorial here: www.psdbox.com/tutorials/fantasy-photoshop-tutorial-float...
Hey everyone.
Isaac and John asked me to write a small tutorial for my waterfall design to be featured on their awesome site www.brickbuilt.org/.
Check it out here!
Many of you have requested a Poseable Arms Tutorial, so here it is, as promised! I explained the best I can, but if you have further questions, don't hesitate to ask. Have extra pieces in case of an accident; you may need multiple test trials for this (I know I did :P). I hope you can use this tutorial to improve your figures! View on all sizes for close-ups on the instructions.
What you will need:
-Torso - www.bricklink.com/PL/973.jpg?1
-Arms - www.bricklink.com/PL/981982.jpg?0
-Old skeleton arm - www.bricklink.com/PL/6265.gif?0
-Lever - www.bricklink.com/PL/4593.gif?0
-A crafting knife
-Superglue
-Andrew
Inspired by THIS Tutorial - with thanks!
Somehow, this song comes to mind when I look at my little creation - ENJOY!
Few people were interested about the 'acrylic' fake nails I made for my Zero, so I decided to make a tutorial so everyone can make their dolls some fancy nails.
You can make any kinds of fake nails with this method, and maybe use other material than straw, but this is just how I do it.
Hope this is helpful!
Edit: Hotglue is perfect for this. Just remember to be quick when you glue them on, a small drop of glue on the hand and quickly place the nail and hold for a few seconds. It's better to be quick than super precise, because if the nail is crooked you can just peel it off and try again. If you wait too long and the glue starts to get cold, it won't stick as well and will come off a lot easier.
Want to make a neat semicircle tower for a gatehouse or other project? Then the latest tutorial on Brickbuilt is just what you need!
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Gostaria do tutorial destes box, para passar para uma amiga muito querida Lelê Ceschini, se alguém tiver, agradeço!
bjos
This is the second tutorial geared around the frame warping and a little more on shadowing using PS CS2. Also see below for the first tutorial on creating a OOB as well. Please let me know of any errors or if you have questions here.
Working on a temple and decided to add an interior. Wanted to play around a bit with the floor and found some inspiration looking at -LittleJohn and Katie Walker’s work so I decided to make a tutorial :) Hopefully some people will find it useful. The full build should be done fairly soon so stay tuned ;)
Okay, so I made this tutorial a while back, and I shared it on my Facebook MOC page.
I've got the link to the rest of the tutorial below!It's relatively simple and decently sturdy. Plus, IMO it fits in pretty good with an Oriental setting. :)
Enjoy and God bless!
www.facebook.com/LEGObyNelson/photos/pcb.1083726751661965...
Another addition to our ever growing series of furniture tutorials. This installment covers a weapons rack, bed, side cupboard, and cabinet. Check it out on brickbuilt.
Image created for a tutorial.... inspired by the amazing James White... signalnoise.com
Check the tutorial out at abduzeedo.com/really-cool-eclipse-effect-photoshop
TUTORIAL on how I made this one. If you wanna try here is the orginal:
farm3.static.flickr.com/2040/1551982387_a2180917a9_o.jpg
1. I´ll work with the road and the sky on 2 images, since the settings will be
different. Go to Image - Duplicate. Name it road.jpg (you can minimize it, since we will start working on one)
2. Image - Adjustment - variations... pick more yellow, OK
3. We will first work on the sky: Create new ajustment layer, Image - Adjustment - Levels, put in the numbers 21, 1.08 , 255
4. Duplicate the layer (right click on the layer, choose duplicate)
Name it Sky01
5. With Sky01 , go to levels again, put in 41 , 0.96 , 255
6. Image - Adjustments - hue saturation. In master take hue down to +4 and cyan is -9. It doesn´t do much, just little.
7. Duplicate the layer named Background, name it sky02 and drag it on top of the other layers. Go to Image -adjustment - Levels. Put in 74 , 1.14 , 197
Then some parts of the clouds get over exposed, so choose the erase tool, have the opacity on the eraser around 70% and the brush very soft, and erase the whitest. Then the layer underneath shows. Then put the opacity on the layer down to ca 74%.
8. I want it to be smoother, so I open the program "Neat image2 ( I bought it, but I think there is a free trial at www.neatimage.com) Now save this image (you can save it as psd if you wanna keep the layers, and then another one, f.x save as tutorial_sky.jpg
9. Open the tutorial_sky.jpg and minimize it, you can close the psd file
10. Now we´ll work on the road. Maximize the road.jpg
11. Duplicate the background layer, name the new layer road
12. Go to Image -Adjustment - Levels. Put in 21 , 1.10 , 199
13. Go to Image - Adjustments - Brightness Contrast. Put in +53 in Brightness and +80 in Contrast.
14. I think the road itself is to yello, but I like the other colors. Duplicate this layer you named Road. Name it Road02
15. Go to Image - Adjustments - Hue Saturation. Choose, Yellows and take the saturation down to - 75
16. Go to Image -Adjustment - Levels. Put in 0 , 1.08 , 172
17. On layer Road02 erase everything but the road. I also erase the yellow lines, cause I like them to be strong.
18. Now I´m happy with the road so I merge the layers ( or save this one as psd and another one as jpg) And drag the road layer to the sky Image
19. I kind of like the color of the yellow lines on the sky layer, so I´m gonna duplicate the layer Sky and erase everything but the yellow lines, the I put around 50 % opacity.
20 Flatten Image
21. Then there are cars on the road, I use clone stamp to remove them.
22. At last, crop it as you like. By holding in Shift while dragging the retangular marquee you get the perfect square ( you can also put 1 in width and height in fixed ratio. I can´t deside on the scuare or just cutting out the car. I like the square more, but I don´t like to cut out the clouds and the lake.
Now we are done, I could tweek on, but let´s say this done for now : )
Picture II
For those who did not see the first picture...
This is going to be my first visual tutorial about consciousness and awareness.
It is very easy because the pictures will speak for themselves.
Without words you will understand, what it all means.
Maybe you discover something very important for yourself... :-)))
If you like, ask yourself what you see and how you see.
Next picture tomorrow.
HKD
If you have ever struggled with making a round roof, you'll definitely want to check out this tutorial by Cozei on brickbuilt.
Hi guys.
I´ve been getting many emails where people are asking me how
I work my photos
so I thought you´d like a tutorial.
Well, this is the first time I do a tutorial. I hope
it makes sence. If you find this helpful
I ´ll try to find a photo that needs a massive
work, and do another one, with more steps and screenshots.
This tutorial is made with Photoshop version 8.0, and a basic
knowledge to do this tutorial helps.
STEP 1
duplicate layer, name it sky
STEP 2
with layer we called sky, go to
IMAGE - AJUSTMENTS - LEVELS
and put in the numbers
68
1,38
255
go to IMAGE - AJUSTMENTS - hue saturation
-12
-55
0
STEP 3
name the background layer mountain (turn off the sky layer)
go to IMAGE - AJUSTMENTS - LEVELS
49
1,03
217
STEP 4
turn on sky layer, and with that layer selected, erase everything but the sky
STEP5
duplicate sky layer, name it blur
go to filter - blur - gaussian blur 8,4%
STEP 6
erase everything but the blue tones with a soft brush to make the clouds in focus
and bring down the opacity of the brush at some points
STEP 7
merge sky layer and blur layer and name it sky
at the sky layer go to:
levels
44
1,00
255
hue-sat and change Cyans, blues and master.
Cyans
-5
-38
0
blues
-7
-28
0
master
0
-18
0
STEP 8
go to mountain layer
levels
31
1,00
255
at last I put on a radical gradient
with 50% opacity, to do the vignette
(make new gradient from gray to white, with
opacity at ca 70% on the gray part)
This is what I basically do, with some
images I duplicade layers again and again
to ajust the levels, and the hue sat untill I´m
happy. I sometimes use gaussian blur at the sky
if it´s noise after all the ajustments, and then
erase the clouds part to get the focus.
Few people were interested about the 'acrylic' fake nails I made for my Zero, so I decided to make a tutorial so everyone can make their dolls some fancy nails.
You can make any kinds of fake nails with this method, and maybe use other material than straw, but I this is just how I do it.
Hope this is helpful!
This is an updated version of one of the first quilts I made. Measurements and a quick tutorial are posted here if you'd like to make a similar one!
CaptainDiamond36 asked for a tutorial on how to build the floor I used in several vignettes like Sudden Trouble or Boarded!, so here is a little bit of instruction.
The technique is rather easy. You just need a lot of grill tiles, a few 2x3 plates and several 1x2 and other 1xY tiles, along with a simple SNOT base. The size of the base is variable and the number of panels you use is totally based on how large the floor should be. I don't know exactly how many panels make a certain number of studs in length, so you just have to try it out, if you are building larger or smaller than this.
I hope this tutorial helps. Please, let me know, if you want to see more instructions like this for the techniques I use.