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cachemash tutorial
by H.Manon
Cachemashing is my name for a somewhat more controlled approach to what Daniel Temkin identified as the Photoshop Truncating Glitch—an approach to image glitching that exploits a problem with early versions of Photoshop. Cachemashing is in my view a relatively pure or true form of glitching, because my control over the outcome is limited almost exclusively to the selection of input files, and to standard user-end changes to Photoshop settings. Once these decisions are made, Photoshop glitches a truncated jpeg file in ways that are difficult and at times impossible to predict. However, what makes this technique compelling is that, through practice, one may nonetheless develop and refine a personal approach, even if the final cause of the glitch remains opaque—a mystery taking place behind-the-scenes of Photoshop’s interface.
I want to preface what follows by saying that I am not a programmer. Although I am fairly savvy as a Photoshop user, my understanding of the program’s internal workings are almost nil. I'm sure if I knew more about the causes of this technique I would be less interested in it. The fun here is really in the "not knowing why."
In this tutorial I mainly describe how I arrived at the image above (a glitched “Currier and Ives” style print of a duck hunt). These specific techniques could be altered in numerous ways and still produce the effect of a cachemash.
What you need to cachemash:
1) Photoshop 6.0 or earlier. I am running Photoshop Elements 1.0, which is the Elements version that corresponds with PS 6.0. My system is Windows XP, and I know that the technique also works when Photoshop 6.0 (or PE 1.0) is installed on Vista. I have not tested this technique on any other OS.
2) A truncated jpeg file in which the point of truncation appears close to the top, resulting in a mostly “blank” image when opened in PS. Jpegs are easy to truncate using code editing programs like Notepad++. My approach is to open the jpeg in Notepad++, delete a couple of lines of data somewhere just below the file header, save, and then open in PS. You have succeeded when you open the file and receive the golden message “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Sometimes it takes ten or so tries to successfully truncate the file, rendering it partially damaged, but not too damaged to open.
3) At least one non-truncated image file that you want to form the mashed-up content of the final image. These are the files you will load into the PS cache.
4) A computer that has sufficient speed and RAM to process the size of image you want to produce.
The procedure:
1) Open a truncated jpeg in Photoshop. The truncated file I used for the “duck hunt” cachemash is 4500 x 4822 pixels @ 300 ppi. The compression rate of the truncated file does not seem to matter. The original image content also does not seem to matter, since the truncation renders it blank.
2) The message pops up: “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Click OK. You will see a blacked-out image, with perhaps a tiny line of color at the top (depending on how near to the top you truncated the file).
3) Now is when you can get creative, in a fascinatingly limited way. Open any file or set of files. Manipulate them as usual in PS, or not. Then close them. For the “duck hunt” image, I pre-sized a jpeg at a width of 8984 (almost but not quite twice the width of the truncated file). This is the trick to obtaining something like a “full frame” cachemash in which the cached image is fully or mostly visible in the final version.
4) Use the filter called Gaussian Blur on the truncated file. A blur radius setting of 0.1 pixels is ideal. This procedure “fixes” the mashed image, in the photographic sense of the word; it stabilizes the data which, up to now, tended to load randomly into the void space of truncated file. The result is a mash-up of certain files and parts of files that have been temporarily stored in the PS cache. (Note: I use Gaussian Blur at 0.1 because of all the possible filters, this one seems to least alter the final image, while still “fixing” it. However virtually every PS filter will "fix" a truncated file).
5) The truncated file is now cachemashed. If you like the results, save to the file format of your choice.
6) Undoing the Gaussian Blur returns the truncated file to its volatile state.
7) Redoing the Gaussian Blur will give new results each time. However (and this is what makes the technique really interesting), the more you undo and redo, the more your “fixed” images also become part of the PS cache. You might think of this as “caching the cache.” If you undo and redo fifty times, the image will be really minced up. But, if at any point you open a new non-truncated jpeg in PS, that jpeg will become part of the cache, and may appear largely in tact as a portion or layer of the mashed image.
Some other tips and observations:
1) In the process of doing and undoing, you will see that when the PS cache attempts to “fill in” the truncated image, it does so in a cycle. The length of the cache cycle is controlled by the size of the cache you elect in Preferences > Memory & Image Cache. I mostly keep cache levels set at 8 (this is max) and RAM used by PS set at 100%. Striking embroidery-like effects can be achieved by reducing RAM used by PS down to 15% or so.
2) Incorporating high contrast RGB images (color or b/w, doesn’t matter) yields brighter colors in the final “fixed” version. Low contrast images produce subtler, more muted colors.
3) Introducing Inverted (i.e. negativized) images to the cache produces interesting results, as do images to which Gradient Map has been applied.
4) It is very unusual to produce a final cachemash that is grayscale, but it sometimes happens.
5) The non-truncated sliver of the truncated file will appear as a black band at the top of the final “fixed” version. I usually crop this out, but this is the only post-processing I do. All of the other effects in images I have posted to Flickr happened prior to the moment of glitching, which I take to be the moment at which PS “fixes” the images.
6) It is possible to create the same cachemash twice. Just open the same files in the same order with the same settings on the same machine. This suggests that there is nothing random about cachemashing. At the same time, if you begin by caching an image that is even one pixel larger or smaller, the results after several cycles of do-and-undo could be radically different.
7) If you overlay the PS crop tool on top of a truncated file, and there is data in the cache, the space within the cropped area will weirdly animate. When you press “crop,” the animation will stop because the image is now fixed.
8) When the final colors you achieve are saturated reds, blues and greens, it is sometimes possible to experience the optical illusion called chromostereopsis.
I will continue to add observations on this page as they come to me.
Good luck!
HM
Yarra Valley, Victoria - Australia.
View Very LARGE Size - Touch it but don't steal it!!!
After reading, viewing and listening to so many tutorials, tips and how to I decided to give a litlle back. My own tutorial - Sharing some stuff with others in the hope that someone can gain something out of it.
***** If you want to view the tutorial then check My Blog. *****.
If you read the Blog, please leave a comment (for feedback).
Composite HDR made from 2 different images taken at the same location.
Thank you for your support, visits and comments. Have a nice week my friends :)
P.S. Looks like Flickr apply their own shapening resulting in the branches being over sharpened. Something that is not present in the original image :(
part 2 of my beginners tutorial for Photomatix(the most useful part imo). This covers Tonemapping and offers a few strategies for obtaining the best possible image.
P.S. view it in Original size
1. The extending pleats are two pleats wide. Fold 6 more of this and you'll have the basic form for the camellia.
2. Here you see the CP for the inner flower. In the steps 3-6 you see how to fold it.
3.-6. Fold in one edge after another. The last edge is a little bit tricky...
7.-8. Fold the half over, to get the petals of the inner flower.
Bee's
Já tem tutorial novo no Fofurice! Mais uma Nail pra Sessão de Natal o/
To aqui num espirra espirra que só vendo, minha rinite me pegou de jeito hoje .-.
E pra completar a segunda, terceiro e último dia do vestiba da UFSC! Uma redação e mais quatro questões discursivas, FORÇÃ NA PERUCÃ BEE!
Pra conferir o post é só clicar: FOFURICE RULES ♥
Ou ir direto ao vídeo:TUTORIAL ♥
Qualquer dúvida só falar,
XOXO ♥
_______________________________________________________________________________
@deborawernke (\_(\
*Please read the notes for explication (I hope you can understand I am not very good to explain in English the Crochet work.. but I try to give you the best of me ^-^)
Here you can see than is a little different way to work comparated with the other tutorial
This one is much hard.. but at the same time is very cute ^-^
In this picture you can see than the tail and the ears are make in that way
**************
*Por favor lean las notas para la explicacion
Aca pueden ver que es un poco diferente el trabajo comparado con el otro tutorial
En este es un poco mas dificil.. pero al mismo tiempo bien tierno ^-^
En esta foto pueden ver que la cola y las orejas estan trabajadas de esta manera
This is the method I currently use to pierce dolls. I developed this method with trial and error throughout the years. It works for me and I hope it works for all of you. Sorry that tip 2 is so long and hard to read. Ask questions and also if there's any other tutorials that you would like for me to do just comment below.
This is some sort of tutorial on how I do my brick wall backgrounds. Though scrapbooking papers can give you a very realistic and easy brick background, sometimes I love to make a "real" wall with texture and color.
The wall is made out of styrofoam, the window is made of foamboard.
And that's how it looks with the good side facing up. The grey paint around the window frame looks a bit like old grout.
With the light shining onto the surface, I have to say, the bricks are way too shiny, still *lol*.
But overall, we're ready for a photo shoot.
I hope you had fun browsing through the pictures and maybe you'd like to try making a brick wall yourself. I'm sure, there are many, many different ways to do it and if this quick and not so detailed tutorial inspired you, please tag me - I'm curious to see other results <3!
Have a great day! Nina*
There are many methods for converting to black and white and with CS3's new black and white adjustment layer, many of the old ways will be moot. But here is one time tested method. I also like Kevin Gorman's method that can be found HERE..
This was done for the PS support group using Comic Life software on an Apple Macintosh. LARGE
I've put together a free tutorial that can really help your cityscapes pop. Amazingly, it only requires a few steps in Photoshop. I hope you find the information useful - www.throughstrangelenses.com/2013/06/23/cityscape-photosh...
This is ONE of my methods for making hollow beads. Follow the number sequence on the pictures to read the tutorial
In Slovak, but easy to follow. Or you can use google translator :) www.mojimirukami.sk/#!fotopostup-naunice-od-zuzu/c23no
Tutorial available here: jednoiglec.blogspot.com/2011/08/memory-board-quilt-tutori...
I must read it tomorrow once again and see if everything is ok:)
kate-beautiful.blogspot.com/2007/08/butterfly-tutorial.html
Make one of your own!
***For your personal use only.***
(I know, goes without saying!)
This is some sort of tutorial on how I do my brick wall backgrounds. Though scrapbooking papers can give you a very realistic and easy brick background, sometimes I love to make a "real" wall with texture and color.
The wall is made out of styrofoam, the window is made of foamboard.
To deepen the lines I use first a pencil, then an exacto knife so the surface won't "break" too much.
Different sized ball tools help a lot to softly round the edges of each brick.
The tutorial for these is available on my blog: gingermelondolls.blogspot.com/2011/07/sweet-animal-barret...
Tutorial for these and two more openwork bracelets is available in my shop polymerclaytutorials.etsy.com
Time for a test stamp. This will show you what pieces still need to be carved away, and any places where corrections should be made.
Make any corrections and...you're done! Don't worry if there are a few wonky bits, it adds to the charm of hand-carved stamps :)
(See the full series of instructions here.)
For a German version of this tutorial, please visit www.expli.de/anleitung/stempel-selber-machen-stempel-schn....
Instruções nos links abaixo(Francês)/ French instructions, click links:
Scusate il ritardo ecco la spiegazione:1 fare4 palline: due per l'impasto(beige),una è il ripieno(rosa), 1 è la copertura(marrone scuro);2 appiattire le tre palline (2 beige e una rosa);3 accoppiarle;4 rotolarle per livellare i bordi;5 passare la quarta pallina nella macchina della pasta per ottenere una sfoglia;6/7 coprire e livellare i bordi lasciando delle piccole pieghe;8 formare un piccolo rotolino e partendo dal centro metterlo a spirale sulla torta;9-11 con un ago o uno spiedino trascinare, ora in un senso poi nell'altro,la spirale per formare il motivo decorativo;12-15 tagliare con una lama la "torta" in 8 parti uguali;16-19 per la decorazione formare delle piccole rose e una volta cotte metterle sulle fette con il silicone :ò))) Buon Appetito
** please note, I made a boob with the end pictures and 7 and 8 are the wrong way round. And the last one is number 9. That's what you get for working late.
1. You need to cut a hole int he back of her head to get access to the hair plugs. I cut the circular seam already on her head, but a square shape you work just as well. Cut her outer hair really short and removed with tweezers from the inside. (sorry I forgot to photo that stage)
2. I prepared all the mohair plugs by knotting 3 times to make them stay.
3 &4: because her head vinyl is so hard, you will need to make each hole a bit bigger to get the plugs through. It helps if her head is slightly warm. I use a really big dolly rerooting needle (the biggest out a set of 3) and basically force it into the existing hole to make it bigger. Get it stuck in and wiggle it about until I goes through.
5. Shows the enlarged hole ready for the new plug of hair. (this will shrink back over time).
6. I found that the tops of the needles just broke, so I use a bent piece of really thin steel or copper craft wire as a threader.
7. I fold the wire in half and I pass the folded end into the hole, from the outside.
8. (sorry, got the wrong way round): I open the loop inside the head and pass the hair plug through it. It is like a giant needle head.
7. close the loop a little and pull both ends of the wire 'needle' to pull the hair strand through to the right side, leaving the knotted end inside the head.
9. Heres a quick shot of her with her new hair.
Finsihing touch...Also reroot the part of the scalp you cut off and when finsihed, glue it in place with a strong glue like UHU or bostick. Leave to dry before gently washing her new mohair do.
Basically this is really hard work on the fingers. Making the holes bigger is the worst, but you can use pliers to pull the thread and hair back through to the outside of the head, which helps.
Sorry about the out of order pics.