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não sou muito bom com tutoriais mas quando fiz essa unha resolvi ir tirando fotos. Acho que da pra entender certinho como foi feito. Uma dica que não fotografei: pra fazer os losangos eu fiz primeiro mini bolinhas pra marcar as extremidades e depois liguei e pintei pra garantir um tamanho mais padrão.
Este es un pequeño tutorial para poder obtener algo de lana afieltrada de una forma fácil y económica, se me ocurrió la idea (no seré una pionera, claro, jeje) y la comparto para a quien le interese. Es ideal para realizar cosillas pequeñas o detalles sin la necesidad de comprar muchos colores. Eso sí, no hay nada como comprar lana afieltrada de calidad, esto es más bien... un "apaño" :)
Como lo prometido es deuda, aqui esta el tutorial de la Belisama, si veis algún error o alguna duda que tengais no dudeis en preguntar.
De cómo perforar piedras pequeñas sin “esollarse” los dedos:
www.elbienhablao.es/significado-esollar/
Cuando las piedras son pequeñas, si se sujetan con los dedos para taladrarlas, quedan demasiado cerca de la broca y es peligroso. Para evitar sustos, lo mejor es lo siguiente:
1-Pegar las piedras con silicona a una base (madera, corcho blanco, etc.) de forma generosa, que la silicona rebose por los lados para hacer de almohadilla. Esperar que seque bien.
2- Poner esa base en un recipiente pequeño, echar agua hasta que cubra las piedras (para que se refrigeren y no se rompan de la fricción) y perforarlas despacio con broca de diamante. Por último, se despegan perfectamente de la silicona como si fuera una cáscara.
Conviene hacer la prueba de la silicona con una sola antes de embadurnar todas, porque dependiendo de las piezas, la silicona podría pegarse de más, como me pasó con un disco de cristal, y en qué me vi para limpiarlo.
**EDITED TO ADD--I just posted a photo tutorial on my blog detailing how to create the background for this card. The tutorial can be seen here:
stampinginspiredby.blogspot.com/2010/03/another-little-tu...
Since I saw it was hybrid week on the HA blog- I thought I would share this card even thought it doesn't have any flowers (hope no one minds). The butterfly is from the Digi Kit Winged Friends. I printed on white cardstock and colored using distress inks. Everything else is good old traditional stamping and inking.
To see Carole's card which inspired mine, you can visit my blog: stampinginspiredby.blogspot.com/2010/02/carole-day-3.html
Thanks for looking! (and again, I hope you don't mind the lack of flowers...) :)
1º Hacemos la fornitura en alpaca , yo utilizo de 1mm , los extremos los enrollamos con alpaca de 0.4mm
2º Preparamos dos placas de fimo , pasandolas por la laminadora en la posición 7.
3º pasamos el rodillo.
4º Empezamos a presionar el alambre con ayuda de cualquier herramienta , en este caso usé un pincho de barbacoa.
5º El mismo paso de antes pero reducido jajaja , despiste xD
6º Seguimos presionando en distintos puntos.
7ºEmpezamos a recortar los bordes que sobresalen.
8º Si quereis y os resulta más comodo podeis levantar la pieza y seguir recortando.
9º Seguimos recortando , repetitiva que es una xD.
10º Pieza terminada , despues de horneada la separamos del alambre y doblamos los extremos hacia atras , ponemos pegamento en el lugar donde encaja el alambre ( yo uso Super Glue3 ) y damos forma a la anilla , terminando cada punta con una espiral.
Espero que se entienda :S es mi primer tuto y se nota xD
cachemash tutorial
by H.Manon
Cachemashing is my name for a somewhat more controlled approach to what Daniel Temkin identified as the Photoshop Truncating Glitch—an approach to image glitching that exploits a problem with early versions of Photoshop. Cachemashing is in my view a relatively pure or true form of glitching, because my control over the outcome is limited almost exclusively to the selection of input files, and to standard user-end changes to Photoshop settings. Once these decisions are made, Photoshop glitches a truncated jpeg file in ways that are difficult and at times impossible to predict. However, what makes this technique compelling is that, through practice, one may nonetheless develop and refine a personal approach, even if the final cause of the glitch remains opaque—a mystery taking place behind-the-scenes of Photoshop’s interface.
I want to preface what follows by saying that I am not a programmer. Although I am fairly savvy as a Photoshop user, my understanding of the program’s internal workings are almost nil. I'm sure if I knew more about the causes of this technique I would be less interested in it. The fun here is really in the "not knowing why."
In this tutorial I mainly describe how I arrived at the image above (a glitched “Currier and Ives” style print of a duck hunt). These specific techniques could be altered in numerous ways and still produce the effect of a cachemash.
What you need to cachemash:
1) Photoshop 6.0 or earlier. I am running Photoshop Elements 1.0, which is the Elements version that corresponds with PS 6.0. My system is Windows XP, and I know that the technique also works when Photoshop 6.0 (or PE 1.0) is installed on Vista. I have not tested this technique on any other OS.
2) A truncated jpeg file in which the point of truncation appears close to the top, resulting in a mostly “blank” image when opened in PS. Jpegs are easy to truncate using code editing programs like Notepad++. My approach is to open the jpeg in Notepad++, delete a couple of lines of data somewhere just below the file header, save, and then open in PS. You have succeeded when you open the file and receive the golden message “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Sometimes it takes ten or so tries to successfully truncate the file, rendering it partially damaged, but not too damaged to open.
3) At least one non-truncated image file that you want to form the mashed-up content of the final image. These are the files you will load into the PS cache.
4) A computer that has sufficient speed and RAM to process the size of image you want to produce.
The procedure:
1) Open a truncated jpeg in Photoshop. The truncated file I used for the “duck hunt” cachemash is 4500 x 4822 pixels @ 300 ppi. The compression rate of the truncated file does not seem to matter. The original image content also does not seem to matter, since the truncation renders it blank.
2) The message pops up: “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Click OK. You will see a blacked-out image, with perhaps a tiny line of color at the top (depending on how near to the top you truncated the file).
3) Now is when you can get creative, in a fascinatingly limited way. Open any file or set of files. Manipulate them as usual in PS, or not. Then close them. For the “duck hunt” image, I pre-sized a jpeg at a width of 8984 (almost but not quite twice the width of the truncated file). This is the trick to obtaining something like a “full frame” cachemash in which the cached image is fully or mostly visible in the final version.
4) Use the filter called Gaussian Blur on the truncated file. A blur radius setting of 0.1 pixels is ideal. This procedure “fixes” the mashed image, in the photographic sense of the word; it stabilizes the data which, up to now, tended to load randomly into the void space of truncated file. The result is a mash-up of certain files and parts of files that have been temporarily stored in the PS cache. (Note: I use Gaussian Blur at 0.1 because of all the possible filters, this one seems to least alter the final image, while still “fixing” it. However virtually every PS filter will "fix" a truncated file).
5) The truncated file is now cachemashed. If you like the results, save to the file format of your choice.
6) Undoing the Gaussian Blur returns the truncated file to its volatile state.
7) Redoing the Gaussian Blur will give new results each time. However (and this is what makes the technique really interesting), the more you undo and redo, the more your “fixed” images also become part of the PS cache. You might think of this as “caching the cache.” If you undo and redo fifty times, the image will be really minced up. But, if at any point you open a new non-truncated jpeg in PS, that jpeg will become part of the cache, and may appear largely in tact as a portion or layer of the mashed image.
Some other tips and observations:
1) In the process of doing and undoing, you will see that when the PS cache attempts to “fill in” the truncated image, it does so in a cycle. The length of the cache cycle is controlled by the size of the cache you elect in Preferences > Memory & Image Cache. I mostly keep cache levels set at 8 (this is max) and RAM used by PS set at 100%. Striking embroidery-like effects can be achieved by reducing RAM used by PS down to 15% or so.
2) Incorporating high contrast RGB images (color or b/w, doesn’t matter) yields brighter colors in the final “fixed” version. Low contrast images produce subtler, more muted colors.
3) Introducing Inverted (i.e. negativized) images to the cache produces interesting results, as do images to which Gradient Map has been applied.
4) It is very unusual to produce a final cachemash that is grayscale, but it sometimes happens.
5) The non-truncated sliver of the truncated file will appear as a black band at the top of the final “fixed” version. I usually crop this out, but this is the only post-processing I do. All of the other effects in images I have posted to Flickr happened prior to the moment of glitching, which I take to be the moment at which PS “fixes” the images.
6) It is possible to create the same cachemash twice. Just open the same files in the same order with the same settings on the same machine. This suggests that there is nothing random about cachemashing. At the same time, if you begin by caching an image that is even one pixel larger or smaller, the results after several cycles of do-and-undo could be radically different.
7) If you overlay the PS crop tool on top of a truncated file, and there is data in the cache, the space within the cropped area will weirdly animate. When you press “crop,” the animation will stop because the image is now fixed.
8) When the final colors you achieve are saturated reds, blues and greens, it is sometimes possible to experience the optical illusion called chromostereopsis.
I will continue to add observations on this page as they come to me.
Good luck!
HM
The second tutorial from my Micro trees series :)
List of pieces needed:
Foliage:
1x 19119
3x 4032
15x 3023
15x 29120
3x 11477
3x 3070b
Trunk (example):
1x 64644
1x 3062b
2x 85861
1x 4032
Concerning how the leaf parts are attached to the end of the stalks; there is a hole in the small column between the antistuds at the bottom of the 1x2 plates, and the stalk fits pretty well in there :)
Enjoy!
Action "Set AllEdges01 AE3" - free download
©2005-2011 AlexEdg AllEdges (www.alledges.com)
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I finally finished my stone half walls. This is how I made them:
1. Found two wooden wall art "boxes" at Hobby Lobby and painted them black.
2. Added egg carton pieces cut into stones with craft glue.
3. Painted them dark gray (2 coats) with acrylic craft paint. Let dry.
4. Used gray, brown, and white acrylic craft paint to add color variation/texture. Wipe off most of the paint before brushing over gray stones with lighter shades.
5. Sealed with 2 coats of matte art fixative spray.
6. Added more dry brush of light colors to make them look even (one wall was darker then the other) and get rid of any shine from the spray.
#tutorial #dioramawall #dioramabrick #dollhousetutorial #miniaturestonewall #miniaturebrickwall
This is some sort of tutorial on how I do my brick wall backgrounds. Though scrapbooking papers can give you a very realistic and easy brick background, sometimes I love to make a "real" wall with texture and color.
The wall is made out of styrofoam, the window is made of foamboard.
And that's how it looks with the good side facing up. The grey paint around the window frame looks a bit like old grout.
With the light shining onto the surface, I have to say, the bricks are way too shiny, still *lol*.
But overall, we're ready for a photo shoot.
I hope you had fun browsing through the pictures and maybe you'd like to try making a brick wall yourself. I'm sure, there are many, many different ways to do it and if this quick and not so detailed tutorial inspired you, please tag me - I'm curious to see other results <3!
Have a great day! Nina*
Hi Bee's
Hoje no FofuriceRules tem o tããão esperado TUTORIAL da Nail Art de Ovelhinha o/
Deu tudo certo no vestiba, agora é esperar :3
To super cansada, então se eu me ausentar um pouco da internet é porque to recuperando as forças,
nada mais digno né? SDLKÇJSLKDJSÇLKJDLSKJDÇLKJ
Pra conferir o post é só clicar: FOFURICE RULES ♥
Ou ir direto ao vídeo:TUTORIAL ♥
Qualquer dúvida só falar,
XOXO ♥
_______________________________________________________________________________
@deborawernke (\_(\
part 2 of my beginners tutorial for Photomatix(the most useful part imo). This covers Tonemapping and offers a few strategies for obtaining the best possible image.
P.S. view it in Original size
I've put together a free tutorial that can really help your cityscapes pop. Amazingly, it only requires a few steps in Photoshop. I hope you find the information useful - www.throughstrangelenses.com/2013/06/23/cityscape-photosh...
Bee's
Já tem tutorial novo no Fofurice! Mais uma Nail pra Sessão de Natal o/
To aqui num espirra espirra que só vendo, minha rinite me pegou de jeito hoje .-.
E pra completar a segunda, terceiro e último dia do vestiba da UFSC! Uma redação e mais quatro questões discursivas, FORÇÃ NA PERUCÃ BEE!
Pra conferir o post é só clicar: FOFURICE RULES ♥
Ou ir direto ao vídeo:TUTORIAL ♥
Qualquer dúvida só falar,
XOXO ♥
_______________________________________________________________________________
@deborawernke (\_(\
Here is the tutorial I promised bluelillies.
go to my blog to get the explanation, It was too long to write here. --> berrydolls.blogspot.com/
1. The extending pleats are two pleats wide. Fold 6 more of this and you'll have the basic form for the camellia.
2. Here you see the CP for the inner flower. In the steps 3-6 you see how to fold it.
3.-6. Fold in one edge after another. The last edge is a little bit tricky...
7.-8. Fold the half over, to get the petals of the inner flower.
This is the method I currently use to pierce dolls. I developed this method with trial and error throughout the years. It works for me and I hope it works for all of you. Sorry that tip 2 is so long and hard to read. Ask questions and also if there's any other tutorials that you would like for me to do just comment below.
This model is my example piece for a new tutorial on designing pleated forms. This tutorial focuses on figuring out the dimensions. It's a follow-up to my tutorial on how pleated folding works.
So decided to write a 2 part tutorial about how I go from taking one of my LEGO builds and cleaning it up and post-editing it for online posting.
You can find the articles below:
This is ONE of my methods for making hollow beads. Follow the number sequence on the pictures to read the tutorial
Time for a test stamp. This will show you what pieces still need to be carved away, and any places where corrections should be made.
Make any corrections and...you're done! Don't worry if there are a few wonky bits, it adds to the charm of hand-carved stamps :)
(See the full series of instructions here.)
For a German version of this tutorial, please visit www.expli.de/anleitung/stempel-selber-machen-stempel-schn....
This is some sort of tutorial on how I do my brick wall backgrounds. Though scrapbooking papers can give you a very realistic and easy brick background, sometimes I love to make a "real" wall with texture and color.
The wall is made out of styrofoam, the window is made of foamboard.
Close up of the window cut out. I haven't decided yet how the other side of the window shall look like. In my mind this brick wall with a window is part of an old factory building, with concrete floor perhaps, a lot of dirt and rusty things. The outside wall might just be painted grey or light cream with lots of dirt and weathered, too.
Oh, and look at the "pores" of the bricks here, isn't this beautiful?
Depois que gravei o primeiro vídeo, choveu de gente perguntando como eu faço para jogar The Sims em modo janela. Então, fiz um tutorial rapidinho mostrando o passo-a-passo. O processo é bem simples, espero que gostem!
You can now decorate the outside of the bells. I made white liquid clay and orange liquid clay using liquid sculpey and alcohol inks (usual recipe: a few drops, wait until it evaporates, and mix well). Liquid fimo gives a too shiny result for this, while liquid kato is the easiest to control for drawing.
When using colors, check that the baked color is what you want: on my first jellyfish, the orange dots are almost neon, and are not in perfect harmony with the skinner blend of the arm (although I used the exact same ink mix proportions).
Using a toothpick to paint, you can now decorate the bell. Make rows of small dots, lines, series of dots of decreasing size... Bake with the heat gun from time to time so the design stays clean. Be careful that the airflow does not make the drops run (I have a strong heat gun, but I was careful and there was no problem).
Make some of the dots of the side overhang under the bell to give some movement to the edge (right picture)
Voy a mostraros como hice esta bolsita de aire japonés. Es muy sencillita, yo soy muy novata en esto de la costura y la hice en algo más de media hora, y eso que hice las fotos para que pudiérais verlas. Es un detalle bonito para regalar, aunque también se puede utlizar para aromatizar los armarios (si la rellenamos por ejemplo de lavanda), como complemento para un disfraz medieval o incluso como vaciabolsillos. Espero que os guste.
Tutorial for these and two more openwork bracelets is available in my shop polymerclaytutorials.etsy.com