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This is my very simple tutorial on doll hair curling. This is the way I use all the time on 1/6 scale dolls. I'm sure every doll customizer has their own way. Use at your own responsibility!
You need small bag closers or pipe cleaners. In my experience pipe cleaners hold better, but they also leave little fuzz in the hair that you'll have to wipe out afterwards. I use whatever whenever I feel like it. It's useful to cut them in a really smile size for this project. I make them about one inch long. You can roll as small or big hair strands as you want, but the small ones make smaller and better lasting curls that can last a long time even in Saran hair without any products.
Step 1: Roll a strand of hair around the bag closer or pipe cleaner into a very tight croissant, starting from the end of the strand, and rolling hair over the end so that it doesn't unravel. Tie the ends of the closer around each other as close to the scalp as possible. I usually do 20-30 of these croissants.
Step 2: Dip the doll's head in hot water. Tea water is hot enough; there's no need to burn your fingers with boiling water. Dip the head in cold water right after; it should make the curls last better.
Step 3: Let the doll's hair dry for a few hours, preferably overnight. You'll feel it in your hand when the hair is not damp anymore. If you want loose curls, though, feel free to not wait so long. If you want any product in the hair, spread it over the croissants when the hair has dried and let it set for as long as it takes for the particular product to dry. You can put a hair net on the doll's head to make the curls hold their tight positions better when they dry.
Step 4: Open the croissants gently... and you get teeny tiny curls! It's best to divide them in two if you want a natural look, or you can leave them bigger and tie them into a beautiful updo - not necessarily on the male dolls, though. ;-) Note that if you do big curls, it matters which way you open the croissants. You'll see why when you try it. I'm always annoyed by factory curls because they all open in the same direction. Personally, I like to vary it to make the curls frame the face in a flattering way.
Hopefully this is useful for someone. :-)
Swimsuit for my daughter. Part of my commitment to buy USA-made or make it myself to avoid supporting sweatshops and child labor abuses. It's simple, because I know absolutely nothing about making a swimsuit, but she loves it.
Blogged at www.everydaychaos.wordpress.com
***Update: Tutorial available at everydaychaos.wordpress.com/2010/06/14/the-summer-necessi... ***
recuerda tener marcadao el http o habrá serios problemas con los inventarios (carpetas, cosas vestidas, el avi será una nube... y más cosas).
Hay que MARCAR "INVENTARIO HTTP".
Está en el menú DESARROLLO (Menu Avanzado (ese lo activas con ctrl + alt+ D) ),
(En SINGULARITY: Preferencias-Red: Usar HTTP para.... y tener marcado Inventario.)
Este es un pequeño tutorial para poder obtener algo de lana afieltrada de una forma fácil y económica, se me ocurrió la idea (no seré una pionera, claro, jeje) y la comparto para a quien le interese. Es ideal para realizar cosillas pequeñas o detalles sin la necesidad de comprar muchos colores. Eso sí, no hay nada como comprar lana afieltrada de calidad, esto es más bien... un "apaño" :)
cachemash tutorial
by H.Manon
Cachemashing is my name for a somewhat more controlled approach to what Daniel Temkin identified as the Photoshop Truncating Glitch—an approach to image glitching that exploits a problem with early versions of Photoshop. Cachemashing is in my view a relatively pure or true form of glitching, because my control over the outcome is limited almost exclusively to the selection of input files, and to standard user-end changes to Photoshop settings. Once these decisions are made, Photoshop glitches a truncated jpeg file in ways that are difficult and at times impossible to predict. However, what makes this technique compelling is that, through practice, one may nonetheless develop and refine a personal approach, even if the final cause of the glitch remains opaque—a mystery taking place behind-the-scenes of Photoshop’s interface.
I want to preface what follows by saying that I am not a programmer. Although I am fairly savvy as a Photoshop user, my understanding of the program’s internal workings are almost nil. I'm sure if I knew more about the causes of this technique I would be less interested in it. The fun here is really in the "not knowing why."
In this tutorial I mainly describe how I arrived at the image above (a glitched “Currier and Ives” style print of a duck hunt). These specific techniques could be altered in numerous ways and still produce the effect of a cachemash.
What you need to cachemash:
1) Photoshop 6.0 or earlier. I am running Photoshop Elements 1.0, which is the Elements version that corresponds with PS 6.0. My system is Windows XP, and I know that the technique also works when Photoshop 6.0 (or PE 1.0) is installed on Vista. I have not tested this technique on any other OS.
2) A truncated jpeg file in which the point of truncation appears close to the top, resulting in a mostly “blank” image when opened in PS. Jpegs are easy to truncate using code editing programs like Notepad++. My approach is to open the jpeg in Notepad++, delete a couple of lines of data somewhere just below the file header, save, and then open in PS. You have succeeded when you open the file and receive the golden message “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Sometimes it takes ten or so tries to successfully truncate the file, rendering it partially damaged, but not too damaged to open.
3) At least one non-truncated image file that you want to form the mashed-up content of the final image. These are the files you will load into the PS cache.
4) A computer that has sufficient speed and RAM to process the size of image you want to produce.
The procedure:
1) Open a truncated jpeg in Photoshop. The truncated file I used for the “duck hunt” cachemash is 4500 x 4822 pixels @ 300 ppi. The compression rate of the truncated file does not seem to matter. The original image content also does not seem to matter, since the truncation renders it blank.
2) The message pops up: “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Click OK. You will see a blacked-out image, with perhaps a tiny line of color at the top (depending on how near to the top you truncated the file).
3) Now is when you can get creative, in a fascinatingly limited way. Open any file or set of files. Manipulate them as usual in PS, or not. Then close them. For the “duck hunt” image, I pre-sized a jpeg at a width of 8984 (almost but not quite twice the width of the truncated file). This is the trick to obtaining something like a “full frame” cachemash in which the cached image is fully or mostly visible in the final version.
4) Use the filter called Gaussian Blur on the truncated file. A blur radius setting of 0.1 pixels is ideal. This procedure “fixes” the mashed image, in the photographic sense of the word; it stabilizes the data which, up to now, tended to load randomly into the void space of truncated file. The result is a mash-up of certain files and parts of files that have been temporarily stored in the PS cache. (Note: I use Gaussian Blur at 0.1 because of all the possible filters, this one seems to least alter the final image, while still “fixing” it. However virtually every PS filter will "fix" a truncated file).
5) The truncated file is now cachemashed. If you like the results, save to the file format of your choice.
6) Undoing the Gaussian Blur returns the truncated file to its volatile state.
7) Redoing the Gaussian Blur will give new results each time. However (and this is what makes the technique really interesting), the more you undo and redo, the more your “fixed” images also become part of the PS cache. You might think of this as “caching the cache.” If you undo and redo fifty times, the image will be really minced up. But, if at any point you open a new non-truncated jpeg in PS, that jpeg will become part of the cache, and may appear largely in tact as a portion or layer of the mashed image.
Some other tips and observations:
1) In the process of doing and undoing, you will see that when the PS cache attempts to “fill in” the truncated image, it does so in a cycle. The length of the cache cycle is controlled by the size of the cache you elect in Preferences > Memory & Image Cache. I mostly keep cache levels set at 8 (this is max) and RAM used by PS set at 100%. Striking embroidery-like effects can be achieved by reducing RAM used by PS down to 15% or so.
2) Incorporating high contrast RGB images (color or b/w, doesn’t matter) yields brighter colors in the final “fixed” version. Low contrast images produce subtler, more muted colors.
3) Introducing Inverted (i.e. negativized) images to the cache produces interesting results, as do images to which Gradient Map has been applied.
4) It is very unusual to produce a final cachemash that is grayscale, but it sometimes happens.
5) The non-truncated sliver of the truncated file will appear as a black band at the top of the final “fixed” version. I usually crop this out, but this is the only post-processing I do. All of the other effects in images I have posted to Flickr happened prior to the moment of glitching, which I take to be the moment at which PS “fixes” the images.
6) It is possible to create the same cachemash twice. Just open the same files in the same order with the same settings on the same machine. This suggests that there is nothing random about cachemashing. At the same time, if you begin by caching an image that is even one pixel larger or smaller, the results after several cycles of do-and-undo could be radically different.
7) If you overlay the PS crop tool on top of a truncated file, and there is data in the cache, the space within the cropped area will weirdly animate. When you press “crop,” the animation will stop because the image is now fixed.
8) When the final colors you achieve are saturated reds, blues and greens, it is sometimes possible to experience the optical illusion called chromostereopsis.
I will continue to add observations on this page as they come to me.
Good luck!
HM
Here is the tutorial I promised bluelillies.
go to my blog to get the explanation, It was too long to write here. --> berrydolls.blogspot.com/
Design: Maria Sinayskaya
Thank you, Maria, for giving me permission to demonstrate your design!
Quick Stats:
30 Modules, Ratio 2:3, Kami or Duo Paper, NO Glue.
YouTube Tutorial: youtu.be/5HgFJKGNgjA
Article: origamitutorials.com/kimono-sonobe-kusudama-tutorial/
Yarra Valley, Victoria - Australia.
View Very LARGE Size - Touch it but don't steal it!!!
After reading, viewing and listening to so many tutorials, tips and how to I decided to give a litlle back. My own tutorial - Sharing some stuff with others in the hope that someone can gain something out of it.
***** If you want to view the tutorial then check My Blog. *****.
If you read the Blog, please leave a comment (for feedback).
Composite HDR made from 2 different images taken at the same location.
Thank you for your support, visits and comments. Have a nice week my friends :)
P.S. Looks like Flickr apply their own shapening resulting in the branches being over sharpened. Something that is not present in the original image :(
Hi Bee's
Hoje no FofuriceRules tem o tããão esperado TUTORIAL da Nail Art de Ovelhinha o/
Deu tudo certo no vestiba, agora é esperar :3
To super cansada, então se eu me ausentar um pouco da internet é porque to recuperando as forças,
nada mais digno né? SDLKÇJSLKDJSÇLKJDLSKJDÇLKJ
Pra conferir o post é só clicar: FOFURICE RULES ♥
Ou ir direto ao vídeo:TUTORIAL ♥
Qualquer dúvida só falar,
XOXO ♥
_______________________________________________________________________________
@deborawernke (\_(\
This is the method I currently use to pierce dolls. I developed this method with trial and error throughout the years. It works for me and I hope it works for all of you. Sorry that tip 2 is so long and hard to read. Ask questions and also if there's any other tutorials that you would like for me to do just comment below.
Olá! Demorei, mas fiz finalmente! Eu sempre faço marbles aqui, e vcs, meninas lindas e gentis, estão sempre elogiando e perguntando como que fica certinho. Vou explicar como faço, geralmente eu esmalto com um branco, uso muito o Pétala Branca da Colorama, ou um neutro que combine com os da marble e depois faço como na foto. O esmalte precisa estar novo, ou ser bastante pigmentado e ralo pra abrir na água. Geralmente, quando é a primeira vez com um esmalte, eu testo antes. Vou pingando as gotinhas beem perto da água pra não afundar. Depois faço o desenho e depois de mergulhar os dedos na água, eu puxo o excesso com um outro palito, e depois ta quase pronto. Só limpar a baguncinha! haha Qualquer dúvida, perguntem :D beijão.
This is some sort of tutorial on how I do my brick wall backgrounds. Though scrapbooking papers can give you a very realistic and easy brick background, sometimes I love to make a "real" wall with texture and color.
The wall is made out of styrofoam, the window is made of foamboard.
And that's how it looks with the good side facing up. The grey paint around the window frame looks a bit like old grout.
With the light shining onto the surface, I have to say, the bricks are way too shiny, still *lol*.
But overall, we're ready for a photo shoot.
I hope you had fun browsing through the pictures and maybe you'd like to try making a brick wall yourself. I'm sure, there are many, many different ways to do it and if this quick and not so detailed tutorial inspired you, please tag me - I'm curious to see other results <3!
Have a great day! Nina*
I've put together a free tutorial that can really help your cityscapes pop. Amazingly, it only requires a few steps in Photoshop. I hope you find the information useful - www.throughstrangelenses.com/2013/06/23/cityscape-photosh...
There are many methods for converting to black and white and with CS3's new black and white adjustment layer, many of the old ways will be moot. But here is one time tested method. I also like Kevin Gorman's method that can be found HERE..
This was done for the PS support group using Comic Life software on an Apple Macintosh. LARGE
This is ONE of my methods for making hollow beads. Follow the number sequence on the pictures to read the tutorial
In Slovak, but easy to follow. Or you can use google translator :) www.mojimirukami.sk/#!fotopostup-naunice-od-zuzu/c23no