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"""This Santa is preforming his task by educating the young reindeer how they should run on gras, when there is not snow at all! It happens more and more these days, that they have to travel through areas under different weather conditions.
As you can see, they are good listeners and also eager to start their actually training on the gras. Santa's sleigh with the big bag is already on standby."""
These origami models are all designed by Jo Nakashima, except for the bag, which is a traditional origami Waterbomb. And he has made a video-tutorial for all the models:
+ a simple change , that allows Santa to stand easily
I folded:
- Santa Claus from a paper 17,5x17,5cm kamipaper
- the reindeer from 17,5x17,5cm brown glassine -paper
- Santa's bag from 17,5x17,5cm red glassine-paper
- Santa's sleigh from 20x20cm double-colored kraftpaper
…Or how to squeeze flowers into those teeny-weenie drops
I’ve had several people text me about the earlier “Drops of Art (Carney)” post and that they appreciated the explanation of how refractions works. Some requested additional information about creating water drop photos, so I’m posting this older photo and original tutorial:
I have always been drawn to nature and wildlife photography. I love taking my camera way up north to capture images of seldom-seen animals and exotic scenery. Unfortunately, we can’t always plan distant adventures to shoot photographs of moose and northern lights. But we can train our eyes to find the unexpected beauty in our own backyards.
My fascination (some might call it an obsession) with water drops began when I bought a Nikon D200 last summer. Sadly, the lens I wanted was out of stock. There was no way I was going to just look at my camera body while I waited, so I picked up a Nikkor 60mm macro. Through that lens I discovered worlds of complexity hidden within the simplest tiny drops of water.
I’m often asked if the images inside the water drops are real or the product of Photoshop. Let me assure you they are real, and anyone can find them if they know how to look. Simple physics produces these tiny, beautiful and common images. Water is cohesive, it naturally bonds together in the shape of a sphere, and in that shape it functions as a miniature lens that will refract nearby objects. Using that organic lens as seen through your technological lens, will allow you to explore those tiny, complex worlds.
The water drop photos on my stream have been the result of an evolutional process. My most viewed, most faved and most interesting photo (according to flickr) was taken almost by luck, lying flat on my belly using a Diet Coke can as tripod. But after a great deal of trial and error, I’ve come up with a few simple, consistent steps for more easily creating a water drop photograph.
1. Focus
2. Focus
3. Composition
4. Background
1. Focus: No, that's not a typo; focus is listed twice, and for a very good reason. It’s necessary to consider the focus of the water drop itself as well as the focus of the subject displayed within the drop. My initial concern is the water drop itself and the plant on which the drop is located. I like to set my camera to aperture priority to control the depth of field. The trick is to have enough depth of field so the drop and the plant (and maybe some nearby drops) are all in focus, while leaving the background sufficiently blurred so it doesn't compete for attention. I generally use f8 to f10 but I’ll sometimes stop down to f18 if the background does not need as much blur. I also find I get a sharper focus by backing away just a little and cropping the photo, rather than getting as close as possible in an attempt to get maximum magnification.
2. Focus: As seen in the example above, the water drop is in focus as is the image of the flower seen through the water drop, but the flower itself is not in focus. That effect is achieved not by adjusting the camera, but by relying on the water drop to act as a fixed focal lens. In other words, instead of adjusting the camera I adjust the object I want to appear within the water drop. I simply move it back or forward until I've found the clarity of focus I want. Some photos look better with blurred refractions. For the greatest clarity I've found the object should be 3-4 inches behind the water drop. This, of course, may vary if using a different macro lens. Be sure to experiment.
3. Composition: Obviously, the guidelines for good composition apply to water drop photographs. Attention should be given to the Rule of Thirds, to simplicity, to the geometry within the frame, and to all the usual elements of visual composition. It's important to remember, though, when photographing water drops that the very shape of the drop influences compositional decisions. Since the lens of the water drop is spherical (or nearly so), slight adjustments in the camera position…left, right, up, down…can have a radical effect on what is seen within the drop. Again, experiment.
4. Background: If you're working from nature, your control over the background is necessarily limited. You have to work with what you've got. As mentioned earlier, the unique qualities of the organic lens formed by a drop of water allows you to make minor adjustments in the camera position that will have a profound effect on what's seen within the drop. With a few simple props, you can gain better control over the background. For example, I often rely on a large sheet of insulation, which is bright blue on one side. I originally used it to block the wind, but noticed that even on the dreariest of days it can mimic a perfect azure sky.
Other Considerations: Almost every time I set out to take photographs of water drops, I learned something new. There was always some new factor to consider. I learned, for example, I could get bigger, more cohesive and more interesting drops on humid days. I discovered that even the slightest wind could have disastrous effects on macro focusing, as well as on the water drops themselves. I found that very slightly adjusting the exposure (-0.3EV to –0.7EV) would compensate for the natural sheen of the surface of the water drop, keeping it from being somewhat burnt out. Most important, I had to teach myself to remember that because a water drop acts as an organic lens, it presents everything upside down and in reverse (just like a pinhole camera or a large format camera).
So now I’m one of the few people who looks forward to really still, stifling, humid days. And even though my beautiful Nikkor 18-200mm has arrived, I still have my macro on more than half the time. Water drop photos are not only real, but also addicting to try to master.
That's it. That's how it's done. It's as simple as learning how chess pieces move, and just as complex as a game of chess. Good luck and think small.
Thanks!
Steve
This was my first venture into Narrowband that I uploaded in September. I have been running through further tutorials from Kayron Mercieca. Steep learning curve but a great improvement.
This is a standard Hubble Palette.
Previous attempt www.flickr.com/photos/astropictures/20769012433/in/photos...
Taken with my TS 65QAPO telescope, filter wheel, LRGB filters and Atik 490ex. Guiding was 90x50 finder with QHY5IIL. Software used was Artemis capture, PHD guiding, Pixinsight and Photoshop.
HA x14 20mins
OIII x14 20mins
SII x12 20mins
BIN 1x1
Que feliz!!! Hj o flickr colaborou comigooo.
Mel, esse é especial para vc! É o look do amigo oculto. Finalmente.. Rs...
Para ler, no tamanho grande fica melhor. Não tá gigante pq não tem muitos detalhes, então não precisa!
BEIJOS
This is actually really old but yesterday I noticed I never posted it, so here it is, a tutorial on light stencils.
I know my profile says I am not here to sell tutorials, and I am technically not changing that because it is not for sale, it is purely a community service - So here goes.
Jaap's cellphone photography course - Chapter one.
When photographing wildlife with a cellphone it is a little known but highly effective technique to point the phone in the general direction of the subject.
hehehehe
I have told you about GIMP, a free Image Manipulation Program. It works really well, and I´d say as well as Photoshop, and the bonus...IT´S FREE!
I took the originals of few of my photos that I´ve manipulated in Photoshop and re-did them in GIMP, getting the same results.
But as always, it´s best to start slowly and get to know the program and first of all, learn how to download GIMP. For those of you who don´t have gimp, here is a link to how to download it:
www.flickr.com/photos/soffia/2339766783/
The tutorial with explanation images is here: www.soffia.net/gimptutorial02.html
1. Select from the menu: File → Open and choose the Image you´re gonna work with
2. Select from the menu: Colors → Brightness-Contrast...
3. Drag the slider up to 20 or write the number 20 in the box next to contrast. Click OK. Play around with different numbers in both brightness and contrast.
This tutorial is done in Photoshop CS3, and you need some basic knowlegde to follow it. The numbers are the exact ones I used.
Step by step snapshots at www.soffia.net/tutorial.html
1. I duplicade the layer twise, on one layer I erase out carefully the mountain with soft eraser, opacity 100 flow around 60. (you can also use masks) One layer is just to have the photo as it is.
2. Name the layers ( image01) mountains, clouds and just_in_case_layer.
3. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 8 ~ 0,73 ~ 200
4. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again but this time choose Brightness/Contrast. and put in -12 for brightness and contr. -28 (Image03)
5. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again and choose Hue/Saturation. (Image 04)
take up saturation to 22
6. For now, I´m fairly happy with the mountains, so now I drag the Clouds layer on top of all the layers. (Image 05)
7. Then I merge the mountains with all the adjustment layers by selecting all the layers, and choose merge layers (Image 06)Name the Layer mountains again if it´s called hue/saturation.
8. Now we can work on the clouds, you can turn off the mountains layer by clicking on the eye on the left. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 18 ~ 0,84 ~ 215
9. I want a little more contrast in the big cloud so duplicade the clouds layer, name it cloud-contrast go to Image - Adjustment - Levels. Use 59~ 0,64~ 195. The reason why I choose levels from there is cause I only want it to affect the new cloud layer(Image 07)
10. with the cloud-contrast layer picked, go to Image - Adjustment - Brightness/Contrast and put brightness to +36 and contrast +17
11. I find the cloud too red, so go to Image - Adjustment - hue/saturation, in Edit: choose
Reds and take the saturation down to -42. After that I rease around it so the layer would look like this (Image 08)
12. Let´s go to the Clouds layer again, Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Brightness/Contrast. put in +45 for brightness (Image03)
13. Go to create new fill or adjustment layer (Image 04) and choose Hue/Saturation. In Edit:
Blues hue: -13 sat: -67
Cyans hue: -10 sat: -57 (or tweek the numbers untill you´re happy with the colors......)
15. Merge the layers by selecting Cloud-contrast,clouds and the all the adjustment layers(image 06) (you can also select the layers and hit Ctrl + E )
16. Turn on the Mountains Layer. Flatten image. Then I did some more adjucstment with hue/sat, cyan -9 and -39 then blues -4 and -22 and Yelloes -35. And then I went to levels and did 8 ~ 1,16 ~ 255.
17. Then I put the lomo gradient fill with 40 % opacity on that layer
I did use the clone stamp to erase out a part of the sky, the dark bottom part... :P
And finally I ran it through Neat Image, a software I bought the other day. neatimage.com/
I could probably spend another hour tweeking and tuning. But let´s say this done for now.
This Bunny was based on this tutorial: tutsplus.
It took me a little while - and now I see that I have chosen the wrong export cmyk instead of rgb. UPDATED: its changed back to the right colors :-)
ln questi lunghi giorni di isolamento da Coronavirus, mi sono divertito con alcuni tutorial rovati in internet, in pareticolare con il tutorial denominato "effetto caleidoscopio"
In these long days of isolation from Coronavirus, I enjoyed some tutorials found on the internet, in particular with the tutorial called "kaleidoscope effect"
PRESS "L"
about b/w conversions - dedicated to Colormaniac too, who brought up the subject. Link: [youtu.be/XA0Of0QMtIs]
1. Make sure you line up the grain of the fabric with the direction of the arrows, 2. Simplicity shirt pieces all cut out, 3. Fray Check your edges, 4. Pin right sides together, 5. I sew over needles, 6. Now pin the back piece to the other side of the sleeve, 7. Sewn together, 8. This is what you should have after sewing one sleeve., 9. Both sleeves done, 10. Use a long stitch on the neck edge and along both sleeve edges, 11. Iron bands in half, good sides out, 12. Gather top edge, 13. Pin band to neck edge, 14. Sew about half way down the band, 15. Pin arm hole band, 16. Sew arm hole band, 17. And repeat on the other side, 18. Iron bands, 19. Pin one side, 20. Sewn together, 21. Trim underarm and snip to ease, 22. Repeat on other side, 23. Turn right side out, 24. Sew down raw edges on each side, 25. Press open the seam that runs under the sleeves, 26. Press up the bottom hem and sew, 27. Press side seams flat, 28. B: Like my new shirt?
See the whole set: www.flickr.com/photos/morganannie/sets/72157624470181898/
I've got a little good news under the stars here in New Zealand for you all on a rather dreary week! I don't know if you've seen my two recent videos on "Despair" and "Anxiety" - but in one of them I mentioned that a great way to escape from your own crazy-monkey mind is to help other people!
I'm not saying this is a self-congratulatory way, but just because it's kinda cool and maybe it will help others be outward-focused as well! First, if you're bored at home, why not learn photography, eh? I took my best Beginning Photography course, filmed here in New Zealand, and made it TOTALLY FREE - people seem to love it and Stu says we have over $50,000 worth of downloads already - that's awesome and I hope you all are enjoying it.
Link below...
Also, I want to send a shout out to my friends over at Monday.com for helping out with a new information-sharing initiative that's just about to get started here in NZ that should help with the COVID-19 sitch.
Besides all that stuff, I'm gonna make some more videos here in the next several days... people seem interested in these topics: 1) conspiracy theories and why you shouldn't believe them 2) my full death experiences and why I'm not afraid to die 3) what kind of evolved society will emerge after this 4) what the heck I get up to on a daily basis in solo isolation 5) ways to thrive and create in this new paradigm... and more!
I may even make some fun videos with good 'ol Gino. Hey man I have a lot of spare time and I can't play video games ALLLL day!!
store.stuckincustoms.com/collections/tutorials/products/b...
Ever wondered how to build good tudor style walls?
Check out our latest tutorial by Titus V. on brickbuilt.
In this advanced Photoshop tutorial I will show you how to create a nice floating woman in a forest. We will turn the forest from day to night effect in Photoshop and we will mask the sky using Calculations. We will create realistic depth of field using a Depth Map and we’ll paint realistic hair and light effects.
Tutorial here: www.psdbox.com/tutorials/fantasy-photoshop-tutorial-float...
Saiu ontem, domingo, no jornal Agora São Paulo!
Depois eu vou escanear e passar tudo aqui!
Um beijo e obrigada a todos que acreditam no meu trabalho e de alguma forma me apoiam!
E uma ótima semana a todos nós!!!
JÁ POSTEI NO MEU BLOG, www.pedacodeamor.blogspot.com, E LÁ DÁ PRA VER A FOTO EM TAMANHO GRANDE, BEM VISÍVEL, É SÓ CLICAR EM CIMA DELA! OBRIGADA A TODAS, OK?
BEIJOS
Hey everyone.
Isaac and John asked me to write a small tutorial for my waterfall design to be featured on their awesome site www.brickbuilt.org/.
Check it out here!
I create this image in my new video tutorial. It's all about Giants ;)
I shot the background in Dubai and the models in the studio ;)
If you like to see more: tutorial.adriansommeling.com
TUTORIAL ♥♥
A lot of people asked me how special shaped bokehs are done. I decided to put together a tutorial and explain things in details.
This is a single shot out of the camera! Nothing was added in Photoshop.
Special thanks to Tony who helped me with the picture formatting!
#28
Oi meninas, final do ano a gente tem aquele monte de eventos né? É festinha disso, encerramento daquilo, coquetel, amigo secreto, festa de fim de ano da empresa... pensando nisso resolvi hj fazer uma make não muito cheguei, mas bem bonita pra esses tipos de evento.
Fotografei o passo a passo, mas tô com uma preguiça enorme de editar, vcs perdoam???? rs rs rs
O que usei:
- Fixador de Sombra Contém 1G
- Sombra Pérola do trio Hippie Chic NYX
- Sombra 06 Duda Molinos
- Sombra Marrom Cintilante Contém 1G
- Iluminador Sun Light Nivea
- Jumbo Eyeshadow cor Gold NYX
- Rímel Ashtoning AVON
Depois eu aviso quando postar o tutorial tá?
I used a wooden thrift store plaque as a base and added cereal box cardboard details. Coated in gesso, painted with chalk paint, aged a bit with brown wax and added a door knob.
It is a little short, but works ok for Blythe in a diorama.
I'm writing a series of reroot tutorials, and just posted the first part on my blog: lovalizious.blogspot.nl/2013/12/blythe-reroot-tutorial-pa...
Let me know what you think!
Gostaria do tutorial destes box, para passar para uma amiga muito querida Lelê Ceschini, se alguém tiver, agradeço!
bjos
I was hoping to put this tutorial up a while ago, but never got the chance to complete it until now. I received a lot of requests from people who wanted to know the workflow on the Times Square image(below). It’s fairly similar to my previous tutorial (the first few stages relating to the camera setup and Photomatix processing are pretty much the same), although this one concentrates more on the post processing in Adobe Photoshop.
If anyone wants to practice with the original images, let me know and I’ll upload them. You can see my original HDR tutorial here.
* You can enlarge any of the screenshots below, by clicking on the image which will take you through to the larger image.
The tutorial can also be found over on my blog http://blog.sandmania.co.uk.
Working on a temple and decided to add an interior. Wanted to play around a bit with the floor and found some inspiration looking at -LittleJohn and Katie Walker’s work so I decided to make a tutorial :) Hopefully some people will find it useful. The full build should be done fairly soon so stay tuned ;)
This month Chris Maddison shows the breakdown for his lovely cheese trees!
Check it out on brickbuilt.
Okay, so I made this tutorial a while back, and I shared it on my Facebook MOC page.
I've got the link to the rest of the tutorial below!It's relatively simple and decently sturdy. Plus, IMO it fits in pretty good with an Oriental setting. :)
Enjoy and God bless!
www.facebook.com/LEGObyNelson/photos/pcb.1083726751661965...
NEW VIDEO! iPhone Photography Tutorial: Lippen - Surreal Portrait #04 #video
Check link on my Instagram profile for my channel. OR here’s for direct link to video: youtu.be/Ok9e_PtsUGU
Enjoy!
#surreal #icolorama #superimpose #lensdistortions #mextures #iphoneart #mobileart #iphoneonly
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#instagram #mobileartistry #shotaward #artsick #fineartphg #expofilm #enter_imagination #graphicroozane #thecreativers #manipulationteam #moodcommunity #launchdsigns #milliondollarvisuals #imaginativeuniverse
#iphoneography #iphone #photography
Image created for a tutorial.... inspired by the amazing James White... signalnoise.com
Check the tutorial out at abduzeedo.com/really-cool-eclipse-effect-photoshop
Full color photo tutorial over on Moda Bake Shop:: www.modabakeshop.com/2011/02/sunkissed-squares.html
If you have ever struggled with making a round roof, you'll definitely want to check out this tutorial by Cozei on brickbuilt.
So I finally completed a tutorial on the tree technique used in some of latest MOCs and you can find it here:
Feel free to let me know what you think of it, and if there's anything that can be improved upon. Hope you will like it and find it useful :)
Planning on making a few more tutorials that some of you have requested, now that I have some time, so keep an eye out for them :)