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Testing the semi-finished pen barrel with a Sharpie. Seems to work OK! It's too long for use with the Sharpie, and it needs to be fitted with the collar, but it does work correctly with the automatic pen-changer.
Handheld test with Lens Conversion settings as follows -
Vignetting +16
Red Color shift 0
Blue Color shift -7
Sony Playmemories App - Lens compensation within Camera Apps on A7 to correct the weird colour shifts. Seems to work quite well. At least I can still post the image. Without it, it's really quite difficult to correct.
Probably need to test out the various settings to find the right fit.
And this is really really wide (12mm). Even when I tried to use an L Plate with a 10mm lens, I will not be able to see so much of the hut (bridge) right at the bottom of the image. Next test would be to try using ND filters.
(Check out all the photos, and please leave any feedback :) I don't have many people around here for second-opinions.)
I want to make a dress! I have a beautiful blue pillowcase I'd like to use for the body and a large rose-colored fabric napkin I want for the upper portion. Inspired by suzdeth's tutorial for a smock top, I started working on this mock-up made of bed sheets a few days ago. Of course with a pillowcase there's only so much fabric to work with, so to get used to this, I cut out 2 pieces from the sheets that are the same height as the pillowcase and half the width of the pillowcase when seam-ripped and laid flat.
I think this design would look at lot better if the main part flared out from the top band instead of going straight down. Does that make sense? Right now, it's just a straight tube that's gathered at front and back to fit the top band. The pillowcase I plan to use is patterned so perhaps that will distract the eye from unslightly bunchiness? I don't want to put a contrasting belt all the way around because that would take away from the pattern on the front of my pillowcase for final version.
Questions:
1) Have fabric ties in the back?
2) Make flared instead of straight?
If I make it flare out, I will have to add fabric panels of some sort to extend the sides of my pillowcase pieces.
Changes that will be implemented for my final version:
>> longer straps
>> add a lining (these white linens will be the lining)
>> might add another panel to the bottom and tack on a few layers of black lace
bracket test of
ANSCO Super Hypan bw film
expired in 1963
developed in HCC 110 B 10min
epson v700
nice reticulations and humidity spots
Test shots with a US$370 TTArtisan 50mm F1.4 ASPH lens on a Leica M240. Focus was on the shop sign not the people.
This shows a close up of the page after the first test. Note the running of the ball points and the uniball. Note the fading of the G2. Note the solidity of the Gelly Roll and the Noodler's.
personally, i think using sticky notes was a brilliant idea.
unfortunately, $5 says my teacher makes me redo them tomorrow. :l
p.s. dont let the stickies fool you, i didnt fail this test! i got a b. haha. (:
polaroid 600se handmade back
Gossen digisix setting
film PX 70 FF "125 iso"
80 iso and 125 iso test setting
-------------------
80 iso
f11
exposure time = 1/2s
--------------------
2.125 iso
f11
exposure time = 1/8s
I was firing at the ceiling. In this room it's about two stories tall, and I could pretty accurately hit the plate where a fan would go, if we got around to installing a fan instead of modding Nerf guns.
Today, I took my 85mm ƒ/1.8 lens out for a little test session in the real world. I set up a tripod off the side of our local Catholic church, and proceeded to shoot the same scene with AF on, in AE (shutter priority) mode, with shots starting at ƒ/1.8 and going all the way to ƒ/22 in 1/3 ƒ-stop steps.
The objective was to see where optimum sharpness was to be found; as a bonus, I also learned how chromatic aberration behaves in this lens.
Peak sharpness is, without any question at all, found at ƒ/6.3, in the image you see here. Sharpness is excellent at ƒ/4, then shows small increases up to ƒ/6.3. Then sharpness begins to roll off gently at ƒ/7.1 and ƒ/8.0, shows a distinct though not yet highly objectionable decrease at ƒ/9.0, and the absolutely takes a dump at ƒ/10. This makes a lot of sense to me because with the 50D's 4.7 um pixel pitch, diffraction begins to take effect at ƒ/7.6 (not an available setting on the 50D, btw) and by ƒ/10, the Airy disc has far exceeded the diameter of a single sensel — so we're well into diffraction-caused blur by ƒ/10, regardless of the len's other sharpness-related factors.
Chromatic aberration is strongly evident (mostly at the left edge of the large tree at foreground center where the dark tree intersects the well illuminated concrete of the building at this angle) starting at ƒ/1.8, and reduces just a little bit with every 1/3-stop taken until ƒ/13, where I cannot see any remaining purple fringing. Unfortunately, this is far beyond the objectively determined peak sharpness of the lens at ƒ/6.3. If you look at the tree in this image, you will see some CA.
So... in high contrast situations where I feel I can give up some sharpness, I'll be thinking ƒ/13, light permitting, and when I'm looking for max detail, it'll be ƒ/6.3 to about ƒ/5.6. The best compromise -- the setting where sharpness has not fallen off much and CA reduction is as high as possible at the same time -- is about ƒ/8.
This image, as far as I can tell, demonstrates the best sharpness that can be shot with this lens and camera. It is a consequence of:
EOS 50D, Canon EF 85mm ƒ/1.8 USM prime @ ƒ/6.3, ISO 100, 1/200th sec. exposure, tripod, 2 sec shutter delay.
RAW to JPEG conversion with Aperture.
This is a test series with my new toy: Sigma 18-250mm DC OS HSM. I used to have the prior version (18-200) and I think it is a very nice "always-on" travel lens.
a quick test of the Nikon 28mm f2.8 on the A7R. I already had a Vivatar 28 with a Canon mount but I had purchased a variable ND filter mount and it was for Nikon. (most of my fast lenses were Nikon before I sold them) I'll use this combo for some long exposure experiments...
A test of the EOS M with 22mm f/2 lens (not pictued) I bought at a low price. It isn't perfect, but it is hard to beat without paying three times as much.
I combined several exposures to make this image to go through all the regular processing I do. As a result, it is a good test for the lens, although I did correct for chromatic aberration, but not a good test for the camera.
The FLM Centerball ballhead in the picture has been great for macro photography. While I lock the sphere in place, it doesn't move unless it is very lose and I don't support the camera. This means I don't have to make several attempts to compose the image because the ballhead keeps pointing the camera somewhere I didn't.