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Much thought went into how I was going to deal with the seam. This mold turned out better than the rest, but still has a few problem areas, most notably in the inset areas where the limbs attach.

Starting to lay the clay bed of the mold.

The top part is way too thin and most likely will not hold the proper shape. Grrrr.

Applied Magic Sculpt last night. Woke up this morning and it's rock hard (get your mind outta the gutter!) ;)

This is Silc Pig a silicone pigment from Smooth On. I color each batch of dragon skin alternating colors so that I can ensure coverage is total and even over that last coat. Dragon skin is clear-ish by default, and would be hard to see if your layers were consistent without. These small jars go a very long way and while they add to the initial cost, they are very affordable once you realize how much silicone they actually color.

A nice benefit from the clear plexi - you can see if there are any leaks.

A few more images of the Fifield Monster head sculpt attached to it's body frame - Prometheus - 1:18 scale. Head sculpt has been recast with Smooth-On's Crystal Clear 300 to recreate the membrane surrounding the mutated cranium. Body sculpt a work in progress but it gives you an idea of the figures articulation once complete. The figure will have elongated arms and legs to match that of the CGI version. ‪#‎prometheus‬ ‪#‎alien‬ ‪#‎mutation‬ ‪#‎cgi‬ ‪#‎fifield‬ ‪#‎fifieldmonster‬ ‪#‎sculpture‬ ‪#‎articulation‬ ‪#‎actionfigure‬ ‪#‎smoothon‬ ‪#‎crystalclear300‬ ‪#‎casting‬

The mold box, fully sealed in Klean Klay.

20 rough casts ready to be sanded

Back in the city, so my "work shop" is now the dining room floor. Gotta protect that wood flooring! I think foam core was not a great idea, as the sides were bowing out and you can see some leakage at the bottom.

Realistic rubber prop ice made using @ smoothon Encapso-K www.smooth-on.com ...

The liquid turns cloudy after 3 minutes and cures extremely fast. Plus, it gets very hot. Mental note: Pour a bit quicker next time!

A tiny lump of plumbers epoxy held the bent armature wire in place. After de-molding, the epoxy popped off nicely, so I didn't have to drill a hole in my original sculpt. Sweet!

At the "workshop" upstate getting ready to build the mold.

Here's my setup for the pencil mold. Decided to try my hand at floating the original and pouring the mold in one pass.

Failed first attempt. Fortunately, this stuff hardens quickly, so back to adjust the mold and try again.

New hand molds. Unfortunately, these still are problematic with air bubbles.

I can't seem to avoid the messy drips. Fortunately, this time I'm using some better protection than newspapers strewn about.

coated in resin dust.

Another view of clay sealing the character.

Everything measured to a T - looks like this is gonna work!

Clay removed and wax spru rods ready to be cleaned up.

This is pretty much ready for the second mold. I'm being plagued by tiny air bubbles creeping up here and there. I just need to bite the bullet and get this new "master" molded and start the final paint job.

The first pour attempt. The solution started to cure in mid pour!

One version is now ready for priming and painting today!

From Super Sculpey through Smooth-Cast 300. The Sketchbot Army begins!

The back side shouldn't be too hard to smooth out to completion.

Sketchbot sealed in carbonite, er, i mean Klean Klay. ;)

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