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After a replacement Heath/Zenith 5411-A motion sensor failed the same way (bad design) the first one did in a porch light (would only turn on in test mode), I decided to use a Regent motion sensor instead. This involved making an adapter between the Regent box and the Heath ball-and-socket swivel, which fits in a standard hole in an exterior electrical box (good design).
I needed to use the putty knife to get past all the plastic snap-tabs on the Regent unit (bad design).
Application scope: temperature sensor probe tube, sensing tube, shell, temperature probe thermometer protection tube, food-grade BBQ probe temperature tube
Tube heads can be pointed, flat, round, flaring, necking, opposite side, split ends
Both inside and outside are smooth and bright
Materials: stainless steel 316(L), 304(L)
Process: automated non-oil sealing process or deep drawn
The cleaned sensor after about 60 Eclipse E2 fluid and Mesoft lint texture swappings.
www.tammed.fi/images/157000_MesoftHT5x5.jpg
Taken handheld with Minolta AF 100-400mm F4.5-6.7 APO @280mm.
Canon 10mp aps-c image sensor used in 400d / Rebel XTi and possibly in 40d 1000d
Die size 24.2 x 17.48 = 423mm2
Effective area size 22.2 x 14.8
An MCA Cat III Workboat, owned by Aspect Land & Hydrographic Surveys Ltd, of Ayrshire.
The 'Marine Sensor' is road towable, and with a small forward cabin, can deploy from a slipway or boat hoist / crane and able to operate a wide variety of sensors.
Her hulls and catamaran configuration lend a fast transit speed and give good directional stability resulting in high quality survey data.
MCA Cat III Workboat
Length 6.9m
Beam 2.5m
Draught 0.3m
The sensor wand from BARS (Benthic and Resistivity Sensors) in the vent. A temperature of ~325 Celsius was recorded.
The Sensor - It Knows You're There. Inside ImageWorks at Journey into Imagination pavilion in Future World at EPCOT Center.
My Baroesque Barometric Skirt reflects environmental data, plus my personal temperature - it's a reflection of the self within the bigger picture. What I mean by this is that how I pass through and interact with the ambient environment interests me. To visualise this passage I have created a skirt that uses sensors to glean environmental data in the form of a barometric sensor board, its data more commonly familiar to those who track and predict weather. To the viewer of the skirt, they will see colours changing in real time on four rays of RGB strip, one for each sensor reading.
This is how I’ve put together the electronics inside the skirt: the aforementioned barometric sensor board protrudes from the skirt and gleans the ambient temperature ( Celcius C) around it, the other sensors on the board collect data and via algorithms in the code work out the altitude (meters m) and pressure (Pascal Pa). I’ve used a Shrimp kit, which is similar to the Arduino Uno, that comes as a bag of components and soldered it onto stripboard. Another temperature sensor, measuring my temperature sits on this stripboard, Four lengths of RGB LED strip radiate from the Shrimp circuit and both the stripboard circuit and the RGB LED strip are sewn onto what I call an ‘apron’, which sits under the skirt and is detachable for washing purposes and also as I like to fashion my electronic circuits as interesting pieces to be viewed in their own right.
The code takes the readings from the sensors and runs an algorithm firstly to convert the data into Celcius, meters or Pascals, and then runs another to mix the colours appearing on each corresponding RGB LED strip. There are 7 colours I’ve set to pass through, the lowest reading being blue, followed by cyan, white, green, yellow, magenta and finally red for the highest reading in each sensor reading data band.
It took a months to create the skirt as there was so many iterations between experimenting with circuits around how to make my idea come to life and creating the skirt, testing paint on fabric, choosing a visual metaphor and style of the skirt, then making the skirt. Next finalising choice of the electronics, coding, prototyping, then transferring the circuit to stripboard. Finally soldering everything together and then debugging, testing, making changes to the code, before eventually putting the skirt and the electronics together.
The Baroesque Skirt’s weather artwork was inspired by the characters Amaterasu & Kabegami from the game Okami.
Read more about the Baroesque Skirt: rainycatz.wordpress.com/2012/10/22/baroesque-barometric-s...
This diagram illustrates how a new sensor technology developed at Oregon State University might work using magnetic beads. (Graphic courtesy of Oregon State University)
Offshore Technology Conference (OTC) - May 4-7, 2009 - Houston, TX: Sensors used in deepwater drilling are tested at FMC Technologies' Subsea Technology Center.
Check if your sensor needs cleaning: Set your camera to Aperture priority, at f/22, and take a shot of a cloudless blue sky (focus not important)... If you see specs, you need to clean your sensor...
There is a tutorial here: www.copperhillimages.com/index.php?pr=tutorials
(Yes, there is still a spec on the after pic.. I got it off, but was using white paper to check then, and I wanted the before/after pic here to be the same color)
Preservativos fabricados con látex natural, lubricados interior y exteriormente. Posee superficie texturada que produce estimulación extra
Contiene 3 unidades
I noticed several spots on my pictures I took during my vacation, especially the ones with blue sky. Here's what the sensor looked like before I cleaned it.
Taken at F 32, 1 sec close-up exposure of my computer monitor on a full white screen, then adjusted level in photoshop to reveal the dust marks.
Agfamatic Sensor 100, Germany, 1971.
What must be the best, most minimalist case ever designed for a camera.
The Agfamatic 100 is a viewfinder camera for Pak-Film 126 cassettes. It has an Agfa Colorstar lens with fixed focus and fixed aperture. Two shutter speeds are selectable with the ring around the lens barrel, the scale showing a cloud and a sun symbol. The camera has a single stroke advance lever that advances the film, cocks the Parator shutter and turns the flash cube holder on which magicubes can be fired as flash. On the axis of the advance lever is the red "sensor", the shutter release button hidden under a round piece of red foil.
-Camerapedia
The unwelcome inhabitants on my sensor. I'm going to be buying a cleaning kit to eradicate these little fellows.
Ahh! What's this thing on my head!!! Oh, a sensor to calculate body core temp and circadian rhythm. Phew. Credit: Chris Hadfield Twitter account
Sensor dust before cleaning, only the two very obvious spots (dot lower right and hair lower left) showed up at other apetures in blue skies and such. To make the sensor dust more clear I upped contrast a lot.
Image of my sensor just after a good cleaning (small spots are left, but it's not a problem for usual images). The darker parts on the corner are due to vignetting and not some kind of sensor dirt. This is perfectly OK.
To obtain such an image:
- Go to maximum aperture (f.22 or f.30)
- Adjust speed and take a white surface shot (long exposure is not a problem, if you move the camera when taking the image it avoid confusion between the white surface dirt and sensor dirt).
- Apply an auto-level on the shot, here is the result.
The the sensor before cleaning.
Sensor after I cleaned it. There are still a few spots around the edges, but those likely end up being cropped out anyway, so I'm satisfied with the results for now.
I wonder how well the Canon Rebel XTi sensor cleaning works in comparison. Getting out lint free cloths and swabs and locking up the mirror is a pain (and dangerous).