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The sensor wand from BARS (Benthic and Resistivity Sensors) in the vent. A temperature of ~325 Celsius was recorded.
This diagram illustrates how a new sensor technology developed at Oregon State University might work using magnetic beads. (Graphic courtesy of Oregon State University)
These guys from the University of Louisville make water sensors (http://makerfaire.com/pub/e/4015). I thought about telling them to try the Bernoulli effect, but why? I noted they were using TI MSP430 microcontrollers.
Preservativos fabricados con látex natural, lubricados interior y exteriormente. Posee superficie texturada que produce estimulación extra
Contiene 3 unidades
By clicking on the first photo to enlarge & then scrolling through, you see the progression as she (I think) walks down the trail, has her attention caught by someone or something, then proceeds.
Puma concolor; motion-sensor camera on private wildlands. San Mateo County, Santa Cruz Mountains, California,U.S.A. #donthasslewildlife
Check if your sensor needs cleaning: Set your camera to Aperture priority, at f/22, and take a shot of a cloudless blue sky (focus not important)... If you see specs, you need to clean your sensor...
There is a tutorial here: www.copperhillimages.com/index.php?pr=tutorials
(Yes, there is still a spec on the after pic.. I got it off, but was using white paper to check then, and I wanted the before/after pic here to be the same color)
The cleaned sensor after about 60 Eclipse E2 fluid and Mesoft lint texture swappings.
www.tammed.fi/images/157000_MesoftHT5x5.jpg
Taken handheld with Minolta AF 100-400mm F4.5-6.7 APO @280mm.
Ahh! What's this thing on my head!!! Oh, a sensor to calculate body core temp and circadian rhythm. Phew. Credit: Chris Hadfield Twitter account
Sensor dust before cleaning, only the two very obvious spots (dot lower right and hair lower left) showed up at other apetures in blue skies and such. To make the sensor dust more clear I upped contrast a lot.
After years of putting up with dust spots, which show up as ugly grey smudges on photos of nice blue skies, I cleaned the sensor on my Nikon D70. It took quite a few goes as you can see. Each of the photos here is an out-of-focus picture of a blank white computer screen which has then had its contrast increased hugely (by doing "auto contrast" on it) to make the dust spots show up better. The little round spots are dust. The other variations and the larger, slightly dark areas are tiny variations in intensity of the LCD computer monitor which have been exaggerated by the 'auto contrast" step.
Tijdens een loopje met den hond kan het nuttige met het aangename verenigd worden als dit plaats vindt langs een maagdelijke vloedlijn.
Deze troffen we aan aan langs een van de stuifduinen aan de zuidkant van de Vliehors.
In de vloedlijn vond ik een sensor van een door de meeuwen aangevreten Vaisala RS41 radiosonde.
This brand new Lexus IS250 looks great, and no one wants to mess that up by running into anything while trying to park. So, this IS250 was equipped with front and rear park assist sensors, allowing the driver to know how close they're getting to the objects around them.
My Baroesque Barometric Skirt reflects environmental data, plus my personal temperature - it's a reflection of the self within the bigger picture. What I mean by this is that how I pass through and interact with the ambient environment interests me. To visualise this passage I have created a skirt that uses sensors to glean environmental data in the form of a barometric sensor board, its data more commonly familiar to those who track and predict weather. To the viewer of the skirt, they will see colours changing in real time on four rays of RGB strip, one for each sensor reading.
This is how I’ve put together the electronics inside the skirt: the aforementioned barometric sensor board protrudes from the skirt and gleans the ambient temperature ( Celcius C) around it, the other sensors on the board collect data and via algorithms in the code work out the altitude (meters m) and pressure (Pascal Pa). I’ve used a Shrimp kit, which is similar to the Arduino Uno, that comes as a bag of components and soldered it onto stripboard. Another temperature sensor, measuring my temperature sits on this stripboard, Four lengths of RGB LED strip radiate from the Shrimp circuit and both the stripboard circuit and the RGB LED strip are sewn onto what I call an ‘apron’, which sits under the skirt and is detachable for washing purposes and also as I like to fashion my electronic circuits as interesting pieces to be viewed in their own right.
The code takes the readings from the sensors and runs an algorithm firstly to convert the data into Celcius, meters or Pascals, and then runs another to mix the colours appearing on each corresponding RGB LED strip. There are 7 colours I’ve set to pass through, the lowest reading being blue, followed by cyan, white, green, yellow, magenta and finally red for the highest reading in each sensor reading data band.
It took a months to create the skirt as there was so many iterations between experimenting with circuits around how to make my idea come to life and creating the skirt, testing paint on fabric, choosing a visual metaphor and style of the skirt, then making the skirt. Next finalising choice of the electronics, coding, prototyping, then transferring the circuit to stripboard. Finally soldering everything together and then debugging, testing, making changes to the code, before eventually putting the skirt and the electronics together.
The Baroesque Skirt’s weather artwork was inspired by the characters Amaterasu & Kabegami from the game Okami.
Read more about the Baroesque Skirt: rainycatz.wordpress.com/2012/10/22/baroesque-barometric-s...
Sensor after I cleaned it. There are still a few spots around the edges, but those likely end up being cropped out anyway, so I'm satisfied with the results for now.
I wonder how well the Canon Rebel XTi sensor cleaning works in comparison. Getting out lint free cloths and swabs and locking up the mirror is a pain (and dangerous).
Sensor cleaned and he work as new again.
Taken with the Minolta AF 28-135mm F / 4-4.5 zoomlens Secret Handshake lens.
Canon 10mp aps-c image sensor used in 400d / Rebel XTi and possibly in 40d 1000d
Die size 24.2 x 17.48 = 423mm2
Effective area size 22.2 x 14.8
Image of my sensor just after a good cleaning (small spots are left, but it's not a problem for usual images). The darker parts on the corner are due to vignetting and not some kind of sensor dirt. This is perfectly OK.
To obtain such an image:
- Go to maximum aperture (f.22 or f.30)
- Adjust speed and take a white surface shot (long exposure is not a problem, if you move the camera when taking the image it avoid confusion between the white surface dirt and sensor dirt).
- Apply an auto-level on the shot, here is the result.
The the sensor before cleaning.
Strobist info:
2 x SB600 behind translucent umbrella, triggered with CLS. Gobo for the glasses. See more info in the text
I got this can from the spanish distributor some4 months ago and only yesterday I decided to try it: yes, I'm a lazy guy! I must confess that it works flawless and combined with the wet and dry sweepers is just amazing. Sensor clean, save mney on Nikon service :-) is also easy to use, I mean, for a dork like me, imagine in the hands of a smart guy... I put a couple of SB600 behind translucent umbrella. On camera right it was feathered to light bot the background and the can , and the one in camera left, half the power of the other, was the fill. I could have used a third flash solely for the background but I was lazy. Is a Metz and I cannot use if with Nikon CLS system.. Ah, I almost forget, between the left light and the can there was a black gobo, just for then glasses.
Offshore Technology Conference (OTC) - May 4-7, 2009 - Houston, TX: Sensors used in deepwater drilling are tested at FMC Technologies' Subsea Technology Center.
These diagrams are supposed to show why you need a small aperture when checking for dust on your sensor.
The vertical red line represents the sensor and the vertical grey line represents the AA filter. The black blob is a dust particle. The top diagram shows light coming in at a narrow angle, corresponding to use of a small aperture. The blue area shows the region that is in shadow at all angles, and since it reaches the sensor the resulting image will show a dark spot there.
The bottom diagram shows light coming in at wide angles corresponding to use of a large aperture. The green area shows the region that is in shadow at all angles. Since it does not reach the sensor the resulting image will not show a distinct spot from the dust particle. Some light can get around the dust particle. There will be an area of reduced brightness on the sensor, but it will not be as noticeable as it would be when the small aperture is used.