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Firstly, I needed to shorten the overall length. The only section of straight pipe was these small 'silencers' so I decided to remove them.
I took out the baffle with the 10" Eminence speakers and replaced it with a 12" Celestion Vintage 30.
This is a modification of LEGO official set 60227 - Lunar Space Station.
rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-35059/beewiks/lego-frame-space-s...
Image taken 27.05.2012 by David Moth..Raisbeck Modifications on this C90B include twin spin strakes & extended wing luggage lockers
After hours of serious EMC-analysis and measurements, we nailed down the noise problems to a bandwidth problem. A harmonized low pass filter removed almost al of the disturbances.
It was later implemented on the circuit board.
I TIG welded a new piece of aluminium into the hole in the coolant channel. This was my first time TIG-ing Ali and cast ali is the hardest due to all the impurities and the difficulty with the heat conducting away so quick.
I'm pretty pleased with the result visually though have no idea how strong it is. It only has to contain the coolant pressure rather than having any real structural significance.
Photo edit for the club 'photoshop contest'
Original picture posted by 'Baby Dove'
www.flickr.com/groups/photoshopcontest/discuss/7215759445...
I stripped the electronics, added a John East Sweepable Mid controller as well as series/parallel switchrs for each pickup. she sounds amazing!
I bought a kit from a guy in the owners club that consisted of a bunch or blue LEDs, a blue gel for the clock and a set of instructions. An hour or so later the job was done.
My Nike Air Dual D II shoes, post-op, sock liner removed. Beneath the initial cloth layer, there was some light foam, 1/8 (approx) inch thick. When that was taken out, it wasn't deep enough for the chip, so I continued to slice into a soft rubber layer, about 1/4 inch thick until I reached the sole, seen here. I sliced into one of the air pockets accidentally.
Detail of where the 3/4" conduit (EMT - electrical metal tubing) is anchored to a wall stud using an L-bracket. On the back side of the conduit is a slot I cut in order to slide it onto the L-bracket.
*Re-supported cieling according to
Australian Standards
*Cut hole through brick wall
*Framed up and finished with a lovely
piece of Merbau timber as the bench
* Removed all rubbish and cleaned up
I had to cut several holes in the back of the case to fit the I/O shield-plate for the new motherboard (Asus P5Q-EM), and a full-size ATX power supply unit.
To begin making the shells, first glue four pieces of 4" PETG together in a square pattern. The easiest method for this is to glue two together, then glue those sets together.
Here's your completely disassembled FireFly, be careful not to lose the front of the firing assembly, it's on a small spring and has a tendency to fly off at unexpected times.
If you're going to be replacing or adding on to the spring you can do it easily by removing the screw from the plunger head and placing a new spring on the plunger rod. I wouldn't do this personally being as the cocking mechanism is kind of flimsy, and you would definitely have to add a spring to the retention tooth so that the gun wouldn't randomly go off after being cocked.
Which traces to cut and which trace not to cut!
Related blog post: blog.gg8.se/wordpress/2009/11/23/how-to-patch-your-dmg-to...
Banksy, the infamous graffiti artist has left his playful and often satirical works on walls all over the world. www.banksy.co.uk/