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I painted all the attachments black as a starter color, I may leave them that way, we'll see how it goes.
In the back are 3 rifle barrels, 2 24" and 1 12", they're all PETG glued into standard 1/2" SCH40 PVC piping for stability, they slot into the 3/4 x 1/2 male adapter without any additional modification, this provides me the ability to quick-reload for long shots.
Then the missle next to the stock barrel with the 3/4" Male adapter attached. There are 2 5-Shot shotgun shells and 3 4-Shot shotgun shells next to the shotgun adapter on the right, they just slide on and off for very quick and easy reloading. Thanks to Grendel003 on NerfHaven for that idea.
I feel pretty O so pretty O so pretty and witty and pierced!
16ga blue titanium ring in the helix and 8ga glass in the lobe.
helix by Tam
lobe by Dave
both from Cold Steel America
Haight st, San Francisco CA
Here you see the 3/4" female threaded PVC adapter epoxied to the original attachment point of the air tank. This provides the needed interface to attach any type of barrel that you can possibly dream up.
Unlike Gengar003's mod on the NerfHaven forums, my mod does not integrate the stock barrel and thus avoids all the blank airspace created by that mod and also decreases the overall length of the gun.
I had to cut several holes in the back of the case to fit the I/O shield-plate for the new motherboard (Asus P5Q-EM), and a full-size ATX power supply unit.
I powered up the Mini and tested the LCD.
It fits perfectly, the active area of the LCD is slightly smaller then the cutout.
Here's the firefly gutless except for the strobe bulb and battery assembly. If you're going to be painting, or if you hate the whole strobe light idea, then do this next step, if not then skip it.
Step 4 (Optional): Remove all screws attached to the strobe light assembly and associated electronics. Make sure that the LED retainer bar and the on-off switch stay with the electronics package when you remove it.
This is the rear NS part that needs modifying. I've drilled and ground out the side of the block at the top and made a thick fillet to fill the missing piece on the side
Now that I can bring the engine a bit further back, it's sitting in a wider part of the chassis, which makes the output shaft line up a bit better with the transmission tunnel.
From this angle you can also see where I have narrowed the tunnel slightly on the left hand side by moving the tube with marker pen on it - the 'book' chassis has space to fit a gearbox down there and all I need is a propshaft.
Two of the tapped holes in the lower clamps were stripped, so I filed flats and used a nut on each one.
Out of the box, the fingers come in three sections: The thumb, the index finger, and the other three fingers fused together. Fortunately they're pretty easy to separate using a sharp hobby knife. Doing so allows for more... expressive hand gestures.
Photos from our trip though a greenhouse for doing SCIENCE!
Blog: www.whatisthescience.com/exploring-science/scientific-gar...
This is how I would modify the pattern to account for medium weight cottons - leaving a gap to accommodate a thick knot (once the ties are tied).
Here was the original problem. With the windows wound up to the correct position, the glass fouled the side rails quite considerably!