View allAll Photos Tagged modification
We both really liked this. Recipe made with no modifications. I posted the pic last night, but then got distracted and forgot to put the recipe up. :O
www.myrecipes.com/recipe/miso-chicken-50400000118603/
---
If you can't find miso, substitute 2 teaspoons anchovy paste and 1 teaspoon tahini instead. With miso, the darker the color, the more pronounced the salty flavor.
4/5 stars
Yield: Serves 4 (serving size: 1 breast half)
Total: 1 Hour, 22 Minutes (hands-on only 22 minutes)
1/4 cup rice vinegar
3 tablespoons lower-sodium soy sauce
2 1/2 tablespoons honey
1 1/2 tablespoons white miso
1 1/2 teaspoons chile paste (such as sambal oelek)
2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic
2 tablespoons dark sesame oil, divided
4 (6-ounce) skinless, boneless chicken breast halves
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (optional)
Preparation
1. Combine first 6 ingredients, stirring well with a whisk. Stir in 1 tablespoon oil. Place chicken in a zip-top plastic bag. Add vinegar mixture; seal. Marinate in refrigerator for 1 hour, turning once.
2. Preheat oven to 400°.
3. Remove chicken from bag; reserve marinade. Place marinade in a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat; bring to a boil. Boil 2 minutes or until syrupy, stirring frequently. Remove from heat; divide mixture in half. Heat a large ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil; swirl. Add chicken; sauté 4 minutes. Turn chicken over; brush chicken with half of marinade mixture. Place pan in oven; bake at 400° for 6 minutes or until done. Remove chicken from oven; brush with remaining half of marinade mixture, turning to coat. Sprinkle with cilantro, if desired.
Julianna Grimes, Cooking Light
JANUARY 2012
Nutritional Information
Amount per serving
Calories: 314
Fat: 9.1g
Saturated fat: 1.6g
Monounsaturated fat: 3.5g
Polyunsaturated fat: 3.5g
Protein: 41.5g
Carbohydrate: 15.7g
Fiber: 1.3g
Cholesterol: 99mg
Iron: 1.9mg
Sodium: 608mg
Calcium: 29mg
Most consumer grade laser pointers come with a momentary switch. To convert a momentary switch to a conventional on/off switch, wrap tape on both sides of the button to act as retainers.
Put a zip tie around the barrel of the pointer over the switch button. Contract the zip tie. It will begin to form a teardrop shape as you close in. Leave enough slack at the pointed end of the teardrop so that it remains off when the zip tie locking lug is over the button. Rotate the tie to turn the laser on.
This one was a gift for a friend...it is at once more modified than either of the others I've done and less...I didn't remove the logos and labels that I did on the other two (for multiple reasons, not the least of which was I wasn't sure if my friend would want them there or not!). This time we removed the casing around the individual cylinders of the gun and did that in brass...I added a little dragon pendant to the butt, and found a little toy icecream cup to shave off and use as a blunderbuss style barrel. I still wanted to keep a bit of the orange (since I know he goes to steampunk conventions and depending upon the rules of the convention may need to have some orange still showing!) but otherwise colored as much as I could.
My ninja style prototype circuit
Related blog post: blog.gg8.se/wordpress/2009/11/23/how-to-patch-your-dmg-to...
I snagged an old -- and bent -- Schwinn fork from one of my local bike shops just before the holidays, and I repaired it by cutting the fork blades short and brazing them into a new crown.
This fork had maybe a 65mm offset and I've never had the love affair with low trail that many people in the American 650b rando world have, so I ended up canting the fork blades a little back to reduce the trail to ~55mm. I also had to cut down the crown lugs to fit because the blades were about 26Ă—17 instead of the 28Ă—20 that the crown was designed for.
It's got enough clearance for a CdlV or Nokian A10, and /maybe/ for a 38mm Flat Magnet, but no more.
Modifications:
Wheels: Rennen R8 X-Treme Concave
Finish: Brushed w/ Color Matched Sophisto Grey Windows & Registers
Size: 21x9.0 | 21x10.5"
Tires: Michelin Pilot Super Sport
(F) 255/30/21
(R) 295/25/21
Suspension: AC Schnitzer Lowering Springs
Modification of the Sweetly Dispensed template from the January PCS, Expression of Affection. to create a desk-top organizer
melanieschulenberg.blogspot.com/2012/01/resolve-to-organi...
Video: youtu.be/jFDWXmFM10Q
Ferrari SF90 Stradale Mansory F9XX
4.0 L V8 twin turbo hybrid engine, tuned to 1100 horsepower
Top speed: 355 km/h (220 mph)
0-60: 2.4 sec
Unfortunately, when used with the Rega armboard the rear stub of the LMF-2 extended slightly beyond the plinth periphery, precluding the use of the turntable lid. Rather than go to the trouble and cost of purchasing in a new 'custom' armboard with the mounting hole moved further forward on the mounting arc, the necessary clearance was achieved by mounting the lid hinges further back with 5 mm nylon stand-off spacers and longer screws.
Frame Modifications:
- QTY 1: New rear hose guide (zip-tie style) on bottom of NDS seat-stay.
- QTY 1: Add one barrel rear light mount halfway up NDS seat-stay
- QTY 3: Remove DT/CS hose guide braze-ons
Fork Modifications:
- Dynamo Wire management. QTY 4 External dynamo wiring guides up fork leg.
- Fix Tubus Duo Lowrider collisions with quick release skewer nuts and level out rack in the process. Tubus Duo Lowrider rack modification, remove tab. Remove QTY 4 rack eyelets around dropout, add QTY 2 barrel braze-ons up fork leg.
- Add QTY 2 fender eyelets halfway up fork leg away from rack and disc caliper.
Cyclefab Porteur Rack Modifications:
- Remove light mount, add permanent drop bracket with tapped hole.
- Dynamo wire guides up driveside rack stay. QTY 2
upper image - modification of the pass frame
bottom image - scanner output. It's not centered well, and rotated a little CW (~0,3 - 0,5 °)
Employees with Michels Directional Crossings repair and alter boring equipment during down time.
You are free to use this image with the following photo credit: Roy Lowe/U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.
apparently that motor wasn't connected to anything.... sad really... i really though it worked too...
3cm high density foam rubber sheet cut to fit the total bed area. The fitted
sheet is pulled over the foam rubber. This takes the pain out of making the
bed!!
This one is based upon a few concepts, some from folklore, some from fiction (like the Dresden Files), and some from the role playing game Mage: the Ascension. I did it in a bronze finish over all because some folk lore states that iron is a bane to all forms of magical folk. I added a bit of a metallic blue and purple sheen in order to make it appear to have some enchantment upon it. I added symbols from Alchemy to make it look enspelled (and also as an homage to Mage: the Ascension which uses those symbols as well). I did the symbols in metallic purple with hints of metallic blue because I didn't want them to stand out unless the light was hitting them the right way and also made them purposely a bit smudgy so that they almost appear to be floating above the surface of the metal rather than as part of it (especially when the light is right!)
looks chunky, but that shit was real dirty and i was surprised it came out as good as it did. very impressed with the new welder's performance on AC.
This light is actually off.
Not all bicycle headlights have a separate "power on light" to let you know it's on, and some that do have the "power on light" that can show that the light is on even when the lamp is burned out. This gives the appearance to the user that they've got a light that's on, even when they don't.
So, how could someone be able to tell if the light really is on, at a glance, on a dark wet night, without taking their hands off the controls of the bike?
By following the steps below you can add a fluorescent dot to eliminate the problem.
All you need is:
Headlight
1/16" Drill Bit
Hand Drill
1/16" Fluorescent Rod (available at hobby shops)
Hobby Knife
Emery Board
Clear Blue or Green Hobby Paint (optional)
Pledge Wood Floor Finish with Future Shine (optional)
Carefully drill a 1/16" hole in the shroud of the light in front of the lens.
Using the hobby knife, bevel the edge of the fluorescent rod to make it easier to push it through the shroud.
Press the rod into the hole, from the top of the light until it extends past the end of the cut (if it's too loose, a drop of CA glue can set it into place).
Cut the rod about 3/16" above the top of the light. Clean up the cut with the emery board, then firmly press the rod flush with the top of the light using a hard flat surface. lastly, trim off the extra from the inside of the shroud.
If the color of the dot is a little too bright (I find that blue fluorescent rod looks too white), a drop of clear blue hobby paint (Tamiya's acrylic works well) can be used to get the right appearance. To make the dot appear more glossy, a drop of the floor finish will do wonders.
taken on the 21 dec 2012 in wiltshire uk...... Im not sure what these lines in the sky are but as you can see from the pictures they seemed to be pulling the spray left by the aircraft across the sky. As much as i dont like to believe it, i think weather modification is real and poses a great threat to all of us and life on earth in general as we all have to breathe the same air !.. The reason i post these pictures is to try and raise awareness as i feel that the more people that know about this, the more chance there is of putting an end to this complete madness !!! For those of you who have not heard of this before please research geo engineering, chemtrails, solar radiation management... Anyway thanks for looking at my pictures and thanks to all you guys who continue to post great pictures here on flickr.....
Modifying a Velo Orange Polyvalent disc fork to accept a SON SL dynowheel -- the dropout is too small to drill holes for the plugs in a SON insulating plate, so I instead ground down the inside face of the DS dropout, epoxied a insulating plate to it (after cutting off the plugs and sanding the back face flat), then used rubber cement to glue the contact plate into the insulator.