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G1-ized version of Generations Megatron, frogDNA style.
As usual, I used ony matt enamels for that flat cartoony look. The only modification I did was to shave off those knee spikes.
"Luxury!! Buick Century Station Wagon", Building & Modification.
ビュイック リーガルワゴン ワンオーナー。
角目４灯、ファントムトップ、コンチネンタルキット、リアウィング、ロッカーパネル、オペラライト 1982年から1984年当時の内外装デザインをベースにモダンで上品な少し抜いた感じのお茶目なステーションワゴンに仕上げています。82年にセダン、84年にワゴンが発売されました。
made by Why Not Studios:)xoxoxo
www.flickr.com/photos/whynotstudios/129365661/
Why Not Studio, always so creative!!!!anyway u will see with your own eyes
If you are reading this it likely that, you need help and you need it quickly. This guide provides you the tips that will expedite the process and get your approval letter faster. Mortgage payments can creep up on fast so you need to learn how to get your loan restructured quickly. This report will ensure you get the fastest turnaround time possible!
Modifying a Velo Orange Polyvalent disc fork to accept a SON SL dynowheel -- the dropout is too small to drill holes for the plugs in a SON insulating plate, so I instead ground down the inside face of the DS dropout, epoxied a insulating plate to it (after cutting off the plugs and sanding the back face flat), then used rubber cement to glue the contact plate into the insulator.
For this project I used the following mediums: Photography, Illustrator, Drawing, and Photoshop. To start off I created the flowers by hand using color pencils and uploaded them to Photoshop and made modifications to them. Along with that I uploaded a colorless sketch of leaves that I made. The chameleon was done within Illustrator. The leaves were found around Milwaukee and also were some pictures that my roommate took at a garden show which I asked for permission to use. The hand within the photo is my hand. To start off I believe a chameleon is a signifier of color it adapts to its environment based on mood, temperature, and or surroundings. I wanted to make the chameleon blend in to its environment which is green while making it different thus why it was done in Illustrator to signify that it’s not supposed to be part of the environment. Next I wanted to make some color pop out within the environment that looked different so I colored in flowers and then modified it a bit within Photoshop to give it a little more character and also stay with the theme of collaboration. For the bottom I added my hand along with a blank sketch to represent construction of the piece along with curiosity of what is to come. Along with that I added drop shadows to most of the things presented to give more of stance that it is popping out and actually there.
When it came to the 4 themes I incorporated collaboration by the use of different mediums (digital and physical) with follows they were drawn then modified (erased/morphed/color changed) within Photoshop. Curiosity would be incorporated with the idea that there is an animal within in the scene that sort of blends in the environment. Community with the sake that its incorporating different mediums the hand can be a signifier of community. Contrast by the use of drop shadow and stokes to distinguish each medium and object. Discovery by the environment that is portrayed within the Illustration, there is a lot to discover within a jungle.
This light is actually off.
Not all bicycle headlights have a separate "power on light" to let you know it's on, and some that do have the "power on light" that can show that the light is on even when the lamp is burned out. This gives the appearance to the user that they've got a light that's on, even when they don't.
So, how could someone be able to tell if the light really is on, at a glance, on a dark wet night, without taking their hands off the controls of the bike?
By following the steps below you can add a fluorescent dot to eliminate the problem.
All you need is:
Headlight
1/16" Drill Bit
Hand Drill
1/16" Fluorescent Rod (available at hobby shops)
Hobby Knife
Emery Board
Clear Blue or Green Hobby Paint (optional)
Pledge Wood Floor Finish with Future Shine (optional)
Carefully drill a 1/16" hole in the shroud of the light in front of the lens.
Using the hobby knife, bevel the edge of the fluorescent rod to make it easier to push it through the shroud.
Press the rod into the hole, from the top of the light until it extends past the end of the cut (if it's too loose, a drop of CA glue can set it into place).
Cut the rod about 3/16" above the top of the light. Clean up the cut with the emery board, then firmly press the rod flush with the top of the light using a hard flat surface. lastly, trim off the extra from the inside of the shroud.
If the color of the dot is a little too bright (I find that blue fluorescent rod looks too white), a drop of clear blue hobby paint (Tamiya's acrylic works well) can be used to get the right appearance. To make the dot appear more glossy, a drop of the floor finish will do wonders.
Most consumer grade laser pointers come with a momentary switch. To convert a momentary switch to a conventional on/off switch, wrap tape on both sides of the button to act as retainers.
Put a zip tie around the barrel of the pointer over the switch button. Contract the zip tie. It will begin to form a teardrop shape as you close in. Leave enough slack at the pointed end of the teardrop so that it remains off when the zip tie locking lug is over the button. Rotate the tie to turn the laser on.
This one was a gift for a friend...it is at once more modified than either of the others I've done and less...I didn't remove the logos and labels that I did on the other two (for multiple reasons, not the least of which was I wasn't sure if my friend would want them there or not!). This time we removed the casing around the individual cylinders of the gun and did that in brass...I added a little dragon pendant to the butt, and found a little toy icecream cup to shave off and use as a blunderbuss style barrel. I still wanted to keep a bit of the orange (since I know he goes to steampunk conventions and depending upon the rules of the convention may need to have some orange still showing!) but otherwise colored as much as I could.
apparently that motor wasn't connected to anything.... sad really... i really though it worked too...
This is my version of the Fig Rig camera cage from cheesycam. I added weights to the bottom of the cage since I'm using lochblech and not the heavy steel bar that is used in the states. All items in black purchased from OBI for circa 37 euro. The chrome weights and the unpainted handle and clamp at the top I already had so this would add a few more Euros to the total but not much. It works extremely well, and is very easy to assemble.
Big thanks to cheesycam for this great idea!
Unfortunately, when used with the Rega armboard the rear stub of the LMF-2 extended slightly beyond the plinth periphery, precluding the use of the turntable lid. Rather than go to the trouble and cost of purchasing in a new 'custom' armboard with the mounting hole moved further forward on the mounting arc, the necessary clearance was achieved by mounting the lid hinges further back with 5 mm nylon stand-off spacers and longer screws.
Modifying a Velo Orange Polyvalent disc fork to accept a SON SL dynowheel -- the dropout is too small to drill holes for the plugs in a SON insulating plate, so I instead ground down the inside face of the DS dropout, epoxied a insulating plate to it (after cutting off the plugs and sanding the back face flat), then used rubber cement to glue the contact plate into the insulator.