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For AskMe: installing an A/C unit in a jalousie window. The top piece of wood is the key, it's the brace holding the unit in the window. In turn, the unit is also holding the wood in place against the interior window molding with its upper flange because the unit's not-inconsiderable weight is slightly angled down toward the outside (you want to angle it down like that so condensation can drip outside, not pool up on your floor inside). The top wood bar is secured with L-shaped brackets screwed into the window frame. These brackets are hidden behind the accordian window cover that came with the A/C unit.
The bottom piece of wood turned out to be less important, although I initially spent a lot of time trying to come up with a way to make the window sill flat despite the metal tracks running its length. Turns out, you barely need anything down there, just something tall enough for the bottom flange of the A/C unit to butt up against and wide enough to give just a little bit of flat space for the unit to rest upon. This piece of wood is held in place with screws drilled straight down into the sill.
I'm using 2x2s for top and bottom. The darker piece of wood at the bottom isn't doing anything supportive, I was experimenting with how I wanted the moulding to look.
I initially worried that the unit might tip back inside, what with the cats often using it as a window seat, but their combined weight + my pushing down on the front still doesn't make this thing budge.
The Flickr Lounge-Photographers Choice
These are the fridge installers. They were very informative and explained a few things about the fridge to us. These are the same two who installed my new dryer recently.
The sPHENIX detector under assembly. A crane installs the 20-ton superconducting solenoid magnet atop the lower sectors of the outer hadronic calorimeter. sPHENIX is a radical makeover of the PHENIX experiment, one of the original detectors designed to collect data at Brookhaven Lab’s Relativistic Heavy Ion Collider. It includes many new components that significantly enhance scientists’ ability to learn about quark-gluon plasma (QGP), an exotic form of nuclear matter created in RHIC’s energetic particle smashups.
On Oct. 2, 2017, crews install conduits at the on-ramp from Talbot Road to northbound I-405 as part of continuing construction for the I-405/SR 167 Interchange Direct Connector Project in Renton.
Vannes [van] est une commune française située dans l’ouest de la France sur la côte sud de la région Bretagne. La ville, située en Basse-Bretagne, est la préfecture du département du Morbihan, et le siège d'une agglomération de 135 882 habitants. Centre économique et destination touristique1 à la tête d’une aire urbaine de 144 353 habitants au 1er janvier 2008i 1, et d'une population municipale de 52 683 habitants au 1er janvier 2009i 2, Vannes est la 4e agglomération de la région Bretagnei 3 en nombre d'habitants, et le 3e pôle universitaire de Bretagne. La ville est bâtie en amphithéâtre au fond du golfe du Morbihan ; la vieille ville est enfermée dans ses remparts, groupée autour de la cathédrale Saint-Pierre ; elle a été aménagée en zone piétonne et offre des commerces installés dans des demeures à pans de bois.
Après la guerre qui opposa les Vénètes aux légions de César, l’administration romaine fait de Darioritum, nom antique de la ville, la civitas des Vénètes à la fin du Ier siècle av. J.-C. sous le règne d'Auguste2. La ville accueille l’évêché et les ordres religieux catholiques en 465 lors du concile de Vannes. Ce concile consacre Patern, saint patron de la cité, saint fondateur de Bretagne et premier évêque attesté de Vannes.
Au cœur d'un comté qui forme un espace-frontière, la cité est conquise en 578 par le roi Waroch II qui organise le Bro Waroch, espace politique dont Vannes est la capitale. La position centrale de Vannes en Bretagne-sud confère à Vannes et à ses chefs politiques et religieux un rôle prédominant. Les comtes et évêques de Vannes sont des personnages clés de l'équilibre entre la Bretagne et la France.
Ville du missus Nominoe, cité royale de Bretagne à la fin du Ier millénaire, Vannes devient après la guerre de Succession de Bretagne le siège de la puissance ducale. Théâtre de l'Union de la Bretagne à la France en 1532, Vannes connaît un essor religieux exceptionnel au cours des XVIe et XVIIe siècles avant de sombrer dans la langueur jusqu'aux années 1870 et l'installation de régiments. L'après Première Guerre mondiale marque le temps des mutations alors que l'après Seconde Guerre mondiale marque celui de la croissance économique et démographique.
Vannes, la cité des Vénètes, constitue un point de départ pour les excursions vers la célèbre « petite mer ». Quant à la vieille ville médiévale regroupée autour de sa cathédrale Saint-Pierre et entourée de remparts, elle est visitée pour son patrimoine architectural5. Ce quartier compte de nombreuses rues piétonnes surplombées par de très vieilles maisons bretonnes aux poutres apparentes.
À la fin de l’Empire romain, la ville est couramment appelée civitas Venetum , « la cité des Vénètes », d'après le nom du peuple dont sont issus ses premiers habitants. Ce phénomène (l'abandon de l'ancien nom gaulois et l'adoption d'une nouvelle appellation évoquant le nom des habitants) affecte vers le IVe siècle la plupart des anciennes cités gauloises de la moitié nord de la France : ainsi, Paris, ancien Lutetia, vient du nom des Parisii ; Nantes, ancien Condevincum , de celui des Namnètes. Ces mutations toponymiques sont intervenues à une époque où la solidité de l'empire romain s'effondrait.
Du gaulois latinisé Venetī, « les Vénètes » est un nom ethnique qui paraît contenir la racine « wen » (sanskrit van-o-ti « il aime », van-a « charme », latin ven-us et Venus, allemand wonne « joie », etc.), et signifier « les amis, les compatriotes »21.
Dans le Notitia Galliarum, compilation du IVe siècle des cités gauloises sous la Tétrarchie, l'auteur nomme la Cité des Vénètes située dans la gaule lyonnaise III : In provintiis gallicanis quæ ciuitates sint, Provintia Luddunensium Tertia : Ciuitas Venetum. Dans le Notitia Dignitatum, compilation par un auteur anonyme du Ve siècle de toutes les dignités tant civiles que militaires de l'Empire romain, l'auteur nomme Benetis comme capitale du préfet militaire : Sous les ordres de l’honorable duc de la division Armoricani et Nervicani : - Le commandant des soldats maures chez les Vénètes, à Benetis.
Au cours du Moyen Âge, Venetis devient Vennes, par accentuation sur la première syllabe qui entraîne la disparition du "T"22. Cette orthographe va subsister jusqu'au XVIIIe siècle, où les deux orthographes sont nommées conjointement dans les écrits de l'époqueNote 1. Durant cette période, la ville porta également d'autres noms : 'Vénéda (en 818), Guéned ou Guenette, Vanes (vers 1300), ...
Le nom breton de la ville provient lui aussi du nom des Vénètes, le nom Venetis évoluant en perdant sa terminaison-is et la consonne initiale se transformant de V en GW. Ce nom se prononce Djuened en breton et s'écrit Gwened ou Wened. Certains ont été tentés de traduire, de façon strictement littéraire, le nom breton de la ville en français, et l'on interprété comme signifiant Blé Blanc23 (Gwenn = Blanc; Ed = Blé). En 2008, dans un communiqué du maire François Goulards 1, s'exprimant sur la culture bretonne, on retrouve aussi cette tentative d'y voir le mot breton "gwenn", et de donner à Gwened la signification de La Blanche.
L'orthographe Vannes est conservée dans la majorité des langues utilisant les caractères latins, mais les langues celtiques comme le gallois ou le gaélique privilégient la forme bretonne Gwened.
La ville de Vannes est fondée lors de la Conquête romaine de la Gaule. Le peuple des Vénètes est soumis par César en 56 av. J.-C.. Sous l’Empire romain, elle est appelée Darioritum, mais reprend le nom du peuple dont elle est la civitas à la fin de l’Empire. Des colons bretons (venus de l’actuelle Grande-Bretagne) ainsi que des soldats maures sont installés à cette époque pour protéger la région des pirates saxons. C’est aussi entre le IIIe siècle et le Ve siècle que la ville se fortifie et se christianise.
En 465, un concile régional se tient à Vannes et consacre Saint Patern comme le premier évêque de la ville : c'est la naissance de l'évêché de Vannes. Conquise en 578 par Waroch II, la ville devient la capitale du royaume du Bro Waroch, avant d’être rattachée à la Bretagne en 851.
En 753, le roi des Francs Pépin le Bref vainc les Bretons et prend Vannes. Pour contenir les Bretons, il organise une zone-tampon sous administration militaire, la Marche de Bretagne composée du Vannetais, du Nantais, du Rennais et d'un bout du Maine. Vannes en est une des capitales. L'empereur Louis le Débonnaire réunit en septembre 818 son armée à Vannes (alors souvent appelée Veneda ou Venedia) avant de la lancer à l'assaut des forces du roi Morvan Lez-Breizh qui l'avait défié.
Ville du missus Nominoë, Vannes est une des cités royales de l'éphémère royaume de Bretagne. En partie détruite lors des invasions normandes au Xe siècle, la ville connaît de nombreux sièges jusqu'à la fin de la guerre de Succession de Bretagne avant de devenir la résidence préférée des ducs Jean IV et Jean V.
La Chambre des comptes est créée à Vannes et y siège jusqu'en 1491-1499 ainsi que le parlement de Bretagne qui devient souverain en 1485. Le Parlement reste à Vannes jusqu'en 1553, date à laquelle Nantes et Rennes se le disputent. Vannes est la première capitale de l'État breton et le siège de son administration supérieure. La ville reste pourtant de taille modeste.
Lors de la Révolution française, la ville est partagée entre la Nation et la Chouannerie. Préfecture du Morbihan, Vannes continue son développement depuis le XIXe siècle malgré l’activité maritime qui s’effondre à la même époque. À partir des années 1870, la ville se dote de nouveaux bâtiments publics et connaît un regain d’activité avec l'arrivée du chemin de fer et l’installation de régiments.
La cité des Vénètes se base sur une histoire vieille de plus de 2 000 ans afin de faire vivre des événements culturels tout au long de l'année. Parmi ceux-ci, on peut trouver des événements consacrés à l'histoire de la ville et à son patrimoine ainsi que des festivals musicaux et des salons.
Festi’Vannes53
Festival de musique fondé en 2002. Ce festival de musique se déroule dans les bars du centre-ville de Vannes au mois d'avril, il est ouvert à tous les styles de musiques.
Tradi deiz (www.kendalch.com)
En avril, Kendalc'h orgarnise à Vannes une journée spéciale pour les cercles celtiques de toute la Bretagne, de la Loire-Atlantique et de l'Île-de-France, qui sont évalués dans des épreuves de danses traditionnelles ; un grand défilé se tient en fin de journée et tous se rejoignent au jardin des remparts pour les résultats des épreuves et une danses des milles.
Semaine du Golfe
Fête maritime se déroulant tous les deux ans avant la semaine de l'Ascension dans les communes littorales du golfe du Morbihan.
Salon du livre en Bretagne
En juin, le Salon du livre, créé en 2008, se situe dans les jardins des remparts.
Fêtes historiques de Vannes
Manifestation en juillet retraçant les grandes périodes de l'histoire de la ville.
Jazz à Vannes
En juillet/août, le festival de musique jazz, créé en 1980, est organisé par la ville de Vannes.
Fêtes d’Arvor
En août, les Fêtes d’Arvor mettent en avant la culture bretonne.
Festival La mer en images
Exposition consacrée aux photos maritimes.
Motocultor Festival
À la fin du mois d'août, la ville de Vannes voit déferler les énergiques fans de metal qui se rendent au Motocultor Festival (open air depuis 2010) durant trois jours.
Santé
Le Centre hospitalier Bretagne Atlantique (hôpital P. Chubert) est situé Boulevard Maurice Guillaudot à proximité de la gare, au nord. Il existe également plusieurs cliniques dans l'agglomération, dont la Clinique Océane, rue Joseph Audic.
Sports
La pratique du sport dans l'agglomération vannetaise est diversifiée. La situation de la ville au bord du Golfe est propice aux activités nautiques. En outre, la municipalité souhaite encourager sa population à pratiquer toutes les disciplines grâce à l'existence de nombreux complexes sportifs.
Les équipements sportifs de la ville s'étendent sur 71 hectares dont 190 000 m² de terrains gazonnés, 81 000 m² de plateaux d’EPS, 40 000 m² de surfaces bâties, ainsi que des équipements sportifs privés conventionnés : quatre terrains de football (22 000m²) et sept salles de sports (1 700m²).
Complexes polyvalents
complexe UCK-NEF du Bondon :
L'association UCK-NEF56, née en 1922 de la fusion de L'Union Clisson Korrigan (1906) et des Nouvelles Équipes Féminines (1946), est installée dans son complexe omnisports de 3 300 m² situé dans le quartier du Bondon au nord du centre ville. L'UCK-NEF compte huit associations sportives fédérées et environ 1 300 licenciés. Parmi les huit associations se trouve une section Volley-Ball qui propose des entraînements dans trois complexes vannetais : UCK-NEF, Kercado et Richemont. L'équipe masculine du Vannes Volley-Ball, née en 2006 de la fusion de l'UCK-NEF et du Véloce Vannetais, évolue la session 2008/2009 en National 3.
Centre Sportif de Kercado :
Plus grand complexe sportif de Vannes, le Centre Sportif de Kercado est situé à l'ouest de la ville, accolé au lycée Alain-René Lesage et au campus de Kercado ( IUT de Vannes). Le complexe est composé de trois salles de sports, une salle spécifique de gymnastique, une salle d'armes, un pas de tir à l'arc couvert, un terrain d'honneur de football, deux terrains stabilisés, un terrain gazonné de football en salle, une piste d'athlétisme en résisport, une piste d'athlétisme en enrobé, neuf courts de tennis extérieurs, un parcours sportif, cinq plateaux d'EPS, un stand de tir à l'arc, un skatepark et une aire de lancer d'athlétisme.
Complexes de Tennis :
Il existe deux grands complexes consacrés au tennis. D'une part, le complexe de tennis du Pargo, comportant cinq courts couverts et deux courts extérieurs, qui est le siège du Tennis Club Vannetais. D'autre part, le complexe de tennis de Kérizac/Ménimur comportant deux courts couverts et deux courts extérieurs et dont le club résidant est le Vannes Ménimur Tennis Club.
Stades
Le Stade de la Rabine
Stade de la Rabine, Complexe Sportif du Perenno et Stade du Foso
Le Stade de la Rabine, plus grand stade de football de Vannes est le lieu des rencontres du Vannes Olympique Club, club fondé en 1998 par fusion du « Véloce Vannetais » et du « FC Vannes » (ex-UCK) et évoluant pour la saison 2009-2010 en Ligue 2 après avoir fini Champion de France de National lors de la saison 2007-2008. Le complexe sportif du Perenno, siège du club situé sur la commune voisine de Theix, et le Stade du Foso, sont réservés aux entraînements des joueurs professionnels ainsi qu'aux autres équipes du club. Le complexe du Foso qui accueille l'équipe de football américain des Mariners de Vannes, comporte également une piste d'athlétisme en enrobé, trois plateaux d'EPS (basket-ball, handball et tennis), une structure artificielle d'escalade ainsi qu'un boulodrome.
Stade Jo Courtel :
Le complexe Jo Courtel, composé d'un terrain d'honneur de rugby et de deux autres terrains de rugby, accueille les matchs et les entraînements du Rugby Club Vannetais, club de rugby à XV évoluant depuis la saison 2007-2008 en Fédérale 1.
Work crews are installing a new underground power supply that will power the Evergreen Line in Port Moody. This is also taking place in Burnaby and Coquitlam.
How to fix “unknown url type: https” error in easy_install
If you would like to use this photo, be sure to place a proper attribution linking to xmodulo.com
www.cadillacforums.com/threads/puttin-on-the-ritz-1984-el...
This installment begins back, way way back,back into time. In the days we could have large gatherings, touch our faces, eat inside restaurants, and lived perilously close to the edge of running out of toilet paper. Picture it, Thanksgiving weekend, 2019…Oh wait, back a bit further…August, 1983.
Some dunderhead salesman in southern California takes an order from a buyer with great taste, a beautifully optioned 1984 Eldorado Biarritz in the ultimate color combination of Black/Black/Red. Said dunderhead gets everything right on the order-except for one tiny detail. The desire for a CF5 Astroroof is lost in translation from the prospective buyer and never makes it into the POS.
Car arrives in September. No sunroof. What gives? Our apologies sir, we’ll get that taken care of right away. Car is driven to an ASC installer. Another dunderhead gets out a jigsaw and cuts a hole thru the roof. A 38” (the biggest you can fit in an Eldorado with roof-mounted seatbelts) ASC sunroof is installed. Car is returned to dealership, buyer eagerly accepts delivery, none the wiser about factory vs aftermarket sunroofs.
For those who don’t know, when you order a car with a sunroof, the car is born with a hole in the roof. Mounts are cast into the roof panel, and the sunroof assembly seats in them and the glass panel has a channel for a nice rubber gasket that seals everything up nice. Then a vacuum formed headliner backing board is cast to perfectly hide everything. When you get an aftermarket sunroof, someone gets a stencil and a jigsaw, and cuts your roof panel and headliner open, pops a trim ring in the hole, and hangs a sunroof pan on the trim ring. If you’re lucky they will drill additional reinforcements to marry the pan to the roof structure. Then they get a bunch of headliner material, pull it taught from the corners of the car to the opening in the roof, and send you on down the road.
Anyway, back to Thanksgiving 2019, and the jigsaw dunderhead’s work starts to come undone.
When I had purchased this car, it needed headliner help. The material was loose, but not sagging appreciably. Additionally, someone had tried to superglue the material all around the perimeter. The material was kind of floating in place, which I thought was weird. I ended up getting some super strong neodymium magnets to hold it taught-which worked ok until it was humid out, or driving on the highway with the windows down as the liner would look something like a sailboat in the wind.
My fix was simple-find a factory sunroof equipped car and get the headliner board out of it and pop it into my car. Found out that that was easier said than done, and after a lot of junkyard expedition, kept coming up empty handed. Finally after years, I came into someone parting a factory sunroof Eldo on ebay and after a lot of trouble was able to get it shipped to me
The board needed some help, and after getting all the old foam off of it and some repairs made to restore the structure (the sunroof headliner board is really thin and flimsy, even compared to the stock non-sunroof board) I tore the interior apart to facilitate getting it in and out as I knew I would have to make “some” tweaks to reconcile the aftermarket hole location to the factory one. The sunroof assembly would also need to come out to recover the sunshade; as well as reseal the panel.
We can see here how the trim ring supports the pan assembly from the center. I have to say though, this was about as clean an install as an aftermarket sunroof can come with lots of extra bracing and no factory roof reinforcements cut. We can also see a very chintzy felt seal stuck to the trim ring
Got the sunshade recovered quickly. I later removed the black plastic covered jute that was glued to the pan-factory did not have this and it would have made the board sit too low when installed in the car. The gray rubbery stuff at the front of the pan was also stripped off for the same reason. I also swapped to the factory grab handle that was included with the board.
Also recovered the sail panels. I chose to leave the foam backing on these as it is not the usual headliner stuff that turns to jelly, its more like a sponge material and seemed to be holding up just fine.
I also added PED connectors to the sail panel interior lights that the factory curiously left out. Not sure how they installed these as the harness is one giant piece, but it means that you can’t take the sail panels out without having the lights dangling in the back. This will become important later.
I then devised a new seal. I threw away all the felt and used some 3M Adhesive remover to get rid of the stuff they had glued it with. Nasty stuff but did a good job. The new seal was the first part of this that took a LONG time. Aftermarket roofs from this time use some kind of felt tape to cut down on wind noise and slow water ingress into the pan, and while still available, there is way better out there today. (In spite of how it looked on my car though, it never leaked?!?! Wind noise was an issue with the shade open though) I decided on a rubber seal, and after getting a whole bunch of samples, the stuff I had initially ended up trying was pretty thin, but rigid strip of rubber. After gluing it on with 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive (which does NOT work as good as the adhesive remover), I put the pan back in the car to see how it would work.
No photos of the failure here, but no good. The material was too rigid and too grippy, and would cause the roof to bind midway thru its travel. Then it tore off in the corners. Ugh! Pan back out, strip off the remaining seal and glue and go back to the drawing board. I ended up buying this
www.austinhardware.com/rubber-seal-single-500-rolls.htm
Which is a hollow piece of rubber that lets the panel travel without binding, and still squishes into a really tight seal. Looks like its out of stock now, but something with close to those measurements in a D-shape is a possibility for someone looking to reseal their ASC aftermarket sunroof. It was another 3M product, that was just a peel and stick affair-way easier than the yellow goopy adhesive route. Seems like a really strong bond, and seals fantastically against wind and water. 0 wind noise now, and no leaks in a downpour when parked, or cruising at highway speeds. Roof moves without binding now
I also decided to put the new seal onto the glass panel itself as it seems like that’s the easier life for it-if I put it around the opening, the pop rivets from the panel would abrade it. Super happy with this.
Next task was of course the headliner. With the pan now back in the car, I could take measurements and properly scribe/cut/fill the board as needed. Again, easier said than done. This was a weeks long ordeal between cutting the board, fiberglassing new material in, more cutting, more filling, coronavirus insanity, etc. Long story short, my roof was installed a few inches more aft than a factory roof would have been, which meant a lot of tweaking to get the kick-up over the rear passengers head in the right spot. Additionally, I needed to build out the map light drop down to accommodate the motor.
Here is the mess I ended up with
I also affixed strips of 3M dual-lock (it is like a heavy duty version of the stuff that holds in an Ezpass) to the back of the board and the pan to hold it tightly-the factory had attempted this with a similar product in the non-sunroof car headliner board. I was super skeptical that my fudgery would cover well at all, but I have to say that foam backed headliner material must be some of the most forgiving stuff around. This took me months to complete, working off and on from November thru April. Ultimately though, I’m happy with it.
While the interior was out, there was another thing I wanted to do. About a year ago, I was following a buddy as he took his Eldorado to drop off at a shop-couldn’t help but notice how small the brake lights (and the rest of the car) seemed compared to all the bulbous modern cars surrounding it. Then I had a couple of SUV’s roll up way too close for comfort on the back of the car-one was close enough that I launched the Eldorado up and to the side to avoid getting hit. Knowing that getting rear ended by a careless driver would probably result in my untimely incarceration, I set out to do something about rear visibility.
The federal government mandated 3rd brake lights for passenger cars for model year 1986. Cadillac was slightly ahead of the curve with this with the 1985 Deville/Fleetwoods which got these in the fall of ’84. Apparently the science is behind them and they do result in fewer rear end collisions. So I decided to add one of them to the Eldo.
There were a few different versions of these things made, with short, medium and long necks to mate with the rear window-one for a Fleetwood Brougham has the tall one, and one for an 80s Buick Riviera like the one seen above is short. The short one is the best size for the Eldo, any taller and it would look pretty bad. Then the gasket that seals it to the window is different for each different model. Fortunately a potato peeler does a great job of cutting things down to size to match the Eldos vertical rear window, and the material can be easily sanded to get out any little imperfections to make it seal nicely and not leak light. An ideal donor for one would be one an 86-91 Eldo or Seville without a factory vinyl or carriage roof.
A quick mockup
All of these lights mount the same way, with this little bracket cutting into the package shelf and screwing in to the metal underneath. This is not possible on the Eldo as the package shelf reinforcement under the center won’t let this happen. So I had to modify the bracket to sit flush on the package shelf, and add two holes to the shelf to get the screws through. They screw right into the package shelf reinforcement.
The next step was wiring. It is not as simple as tapping a brake light wire and running across the package shelf to the light. Since the Eldos tail lights do everything- brake, signal and hazard, just tapping a wire would cause the center light to flash with the signals or hazard. GM rectified this by using a different brake switch to prevent backfeeding. See the original gray switch, with an in and out, and the new beige one, with a supply, and two isolated outputs. This puts the 3rd brake light (acronym: CHMSL “Center High Mount Stoplight) on its own branch-but also means that you have to home run a wire all the way to it. The wire chase made quick work of this however. I had a pretty long link of 3rd brake light harness, but not quite enough to make it to the front of the car. I put another PED connector of the same kind that I used on the sail panels to join this blue wire I ran from the switch underneath the drivers side rear seat arm rest, which is accessible by removing the ash tray if need be. The stock package shelf reinforcement actually ended up being drilled for the wiring, so I’m not sure if this was something that was in the works for the Eldo.
The version of the brake switch I used allowed me to keep the cruise control connector, and only change the brake light connector itself (part 12117354). I wanted to keep this as non-invasive as possible as I hate being upside down under the dash (though I see to find myself in that position a lot…) I will search around for the part number for the brake light switch itself.
The last trick I wanted to pull before I put the interior back together was to replace the horrible rearview mirror. I forgot how bad these things were (or more like, no one ever noticed before there were LED headlights on other people’s cars that are tall enough to be flush with your back window) but it seems like the mirror was good for one thing; blindness. They have two settings-blindingly bright where others headlights fry your retinas at night, or completely blind, where you can’t see a thing behind you.
My daily driver has a great auto dimming mirror that still lets you see everything without blinding you, made by Gentex. About the same size as the Eldo rearview. I was casually browsing their offerings to see what kind of money we were talking, when I noticed they offered an upgraded unit as compared to the one installed on my car-one with an LED compass feature that was *drumroll* amber colored! Just like the center stack on the Eldorado! So needless to say, the project was underway quickly.
Wired it in cleanly to an existing ignition power on the fuse box
I had to buy a new button to mount it, stock Eldo one was too small to hold it. Check out the dashboard illustration on the glue I bought to stick it on with!
And here it is mounted up!
I am super happy with the mirror. It works great and is a really close match to the amber on the center stack. They even have the same segment check timing when you turn the ignition on Unfortunately it does not dim with the rest of the dash panel, so that’s a letdown, but if desired you can turn the compass off if you wanted to dim everything all the way as I like to do when I’m out of the city on a dark road.
Now, you may notice that the visors are all kinds of messed up. Progress has a price I guess. My long-fought for 1988 Deville visors are NG with the new headliner board-they’re just too big and interfere with the bump out for the map light. I wish I would have known as I could have easily shrunk this bump out when I was doing surgery on the board but its too late now. I’m at a crossroads of reinstalling my old red Eldo visors with known good arms swapped into them (which are probably super faded next to the new material but are impossible to reupholster right) or finding another late 80s more robust GM visor and reupholstering/swapping them in.
I still have more stuff to add to this which may come tomorrow as my fingers are about to fall off!
Almost everyone had experienced food outside, eat outside, cook outside, sleep outside and play outside. So why not have your shower outside?
Reference: quintessentialplumbing.com.au/5-things-you-have-to-consid...
Pressure treated decking is installed on a free standing pressure treated frame. Screen Eze screening system is installed in all the open bays and exposed pine rafters are installed beneath a T111 ceiling. Divider rails are installed around the perimeter.
301-875-2781
www.cadillacforums.com/threads/puttin-on-the-ritz-1984-el...
This installment begins back, way way back,back into time. In the days we could have large gatherings, touch our faces, eat inside restaurants, and lived perilously close to the edge of running out of toilet paper. Picture it, Thanksgiving weekend, 2019…Oh wait, back a bit further…August, 1983.
Some dunderhead salesman in southern California takes an order from a buyer with great taste, a beautifully optioned 1984 Eldorado Biarritz in the ultimate color combination of Black/Black/Red. Said dunderhead gets everything right on the order-except for one tiny detail. The desire for a CF5 Astroroof is lost in translation from the prospective buyer and never makes it into the POS.
Car arrives in September. No sunroof. What gives? Our apologies sir, we’ll get that taken care of right away. Car is driven to an ASC installer. Another dunderhead gets out a jigsaw and cuts a hole thru the roof. A 38” (the biggest you can fit in an Eldorado with roof-mounted seatbelts) ASC sunroof is installed. Car is returned to dealership, buyer eagerly accepts delivery, none the wiser about factory vs aftermarket sunroofs.
For those who don’t know, when you order a car with a sunroof, the car is born with a hole in the roof. Mounts are cast into the roof panel, and the sunroof assembly seats in them and the glass panel has a channel for a nice rubber gasket that seals everything up nice. Then a vacuum formed headliner backing board is cast to perfectly hide everything. When you get an aftermarket sunroof, someone gets a stencil and a jigsaw, and cuts your roof panel and headliner open, pops a trim ring in the hole, and hangs a sunroof pan on the trim ring. If you’re lucky they will drill additional reinforcements to marry the pan to the roof structure. Then they get a bunch of headliner material, pull it taught from the corners of the car to the opening in the roof, and send you on down the road.
Anyway, back to Thanksgiving 2019, and the jigsaw dunderhead’s work starts to come undone.
When I had purchased this car, it needed headliner help. The material was loose, but not sagging appreciably. Additionally, someone had tried to superglue the material all around the perimeter. The material was kind of floating in place, which I thought was weird. I ended up getting some super strong neodymium magnets to hold it taught-which worked ok until it was humid out, or driving on the highway with the windows down as the liner would look something like a sailboat in the wind.
My fix was simple-find a factory sunroof equipped car and get the headliner board out of it and pop it into my car. Found out that that was easier said than done, and after a lot of junkyard expedition, kept coming up empty handed. Finally after years, I came into someone parting a factory sunroof Eldo on ebay and after a lot of trouble was able to get it shipped to me
The board needed some help, and after getting all the old foam off of it and some repairs made to restore the structure (the sunroof headliner board is really thin and flimsy, even compared to the stock non-sunroof board) I tore the interior apart to facilitate getting it in and out as I knew I would have to make “some” tweaks to reconcile the aftermarket hole location to the factory one. The sunroof assembly would also need to come out to recover the sunshade; as well as reseal the panel.
We can see here how the trim ring supports the pan assembly from the center. I have to say though, this was about as clean an install as an aftermarket sunroof can come with lots of extra bracing and no factory roof reinforcements cut. We can also see a very chintzy felt seal stuck to the trim ring
Got the sunshade recovered quickly. I later removed the black plastic covered jute that was glued to the pan-factory did not have this and it would have made the board sit too low when installed in the car. The gray rubbery stuff at the front of the pan was also stripped off for the same reason. I also swapped to the factory grab handle that was included with the board.
Also recovered the sail panels. I chose to leave the foam backing on these as it is not the usual headliner stuff that turns to jelly, its more like a sponge material and seemed to be holding up just fine.
I also added PED connectors to the sail panel interior lights that the factory curiously left out. Not sure how they installed these as the harness is one giant piece, but it means that you can’t take the sail panels out without having the lights dangling in the back. This will become important later.
I then devised a new seal. I threw away all the felt and used some 3M Adhesive remover to get rid of the stuff they had glued it with. Nasty stuff but did a good job. The new seal was the first part of this that took a LONG time. Aftermarket roofs from this time use some kind of felt tape to cut down on wind noise and slow water ingress into the pan, and while still available, there is way better out there today. (In spite of how it looked on my car though, it never leaked?!?! Wind noise was an issue with the shade open though) I decided on a rubber seal, and after getting a whole bunch of samples, the stuff I had initially ended up trying was pretty thin, but rigid strip of rubber. After gluing it on with 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive (which does NOT work as good as the adhesive remover), I put the pan back in the car to see how it would work.
No photos of the failure here, but no good. The material was too rigid and too grippy, and would cause the roof to bind midway thru its travel. Then it tore off in the corners. Ugh! Pan back out, strip off the remaining seal and glue and go back to the drawing board. I ended up buying this
www.austinhardware.com/rubber-seal-single-500-rolls.htm
Which is a hollow piece of rubber that lets the panel travel without binding, and still squishes into a really tight seal. Looks like its out of stock now, but something with close to those measurements in a D-shape is a possibility for someone looking to reseal their ASC aftermarket sunroof. It was another 3M product, that was just a peel and stick affair-way easier than the yellow goopy adhesive route. Seems like a really strong bond, and seals fantastically against wind and water. 0 wind noise now, and no leaks in a downpour when parked, or cruising at highway speeds. Roof moves without binding now
I also decided to put the new seal onto the glass panel itself as it seems like that’s the easier life for it-if I put it around the opening, the pop rivets from the panel would abrade it. Super happy with this.
Next task was of course the headliner. With the pan now back in the car, I could take measurements and properly scribe/cut/fill the board as needed. Again, easier said than done. This was a weeks long ordeal between cutting the board, fiberglassing new material in, more cutting, more filling, coronavirus insanity, etc. Long story short, my roof was installed a few inches more aft than a factory roof would have been, which meant a lot of tweaking to get the kick-up over the rear passengers head in the right spot. Additionally, I needed to build out the map light drop down to accommodate the motor.
Here is the mess I ended up with
I also affixed strips of 3M dual-lock (it is like a heavy duty version of the stuff that holds in an Ezpass) to the back of the board and the pan to hold it tightly-the factory had attempted this with a similar product in the non-sunroof car headliner board. I was super skeptical that my fudgery would cover well at all, but I have to say that foam backed headliner material must be some of the most forgiving stuff around. This took me months to complete, working off and on from November thru April. Ultimately though, I’m happy with it.
While the interior was out, there was another thing I wanted to do. About a year ago, I was following a buddy as he took his Eldorado to drop off at a shop-couldn’t help but notice how small the brake lights (and the rest of the car) seemed compared to all the bulbous modern cars surrounding it. Then I had a couple of SUV’s roll up way too close for comfort on the back of the car-one was close enough that I launched the Eldorado up and to the side to avoid getting hit. Knowing that getting rear ended by a careless driver would probably result in my untimely incarceration, I set out to do something about rear visibility.
The federal government mandated 3rd brake lights for passenger cars for model year 1986. Cadillac was slightly ahead of the curve with this with the 1985 Deville/Fleetwoods which got these in the fall of ’84. Apparently the science is behind them and they do result in fewer rear end collisions. So I decided to add one of them to the Eldo.
There were a few different versions of these things made, with short, medium and long necks to mate with the rear window-one for a Fleetwood Brougham has the tall one, and one for an 80s Buick Riviera like the one seen above is short. The short one is the best size for the Eldo, any taller and it would look pretty bad. Then the gasket that seals it to the window is different for each different model. Fortunately a potato peeler does a great job of cutting things down to size to match the Eldos vertical rear window, and the material can be easily sanded to get out any little imperfections to make it seal nicely and not leak light. An ideal donor for one would be one an 86-91 Eldo or Seville without a factory vinyl or carriage roof.
A quick mockup
All of these lights mount the same way, with this little bracket cutting into the package shelf and screwing in to the metal underneath. This is not possible on the Eldo as the package shelf reinforcement under the center won’t let this happen. So I had to modify the bracket to sit flush on the package shelf, and add two holes to the shelf to get the screws through. They screw right into the package shelf reinforcement.
The next step was wiring. It is not as simple as tapping a brake light wire and running across the package shelf to the light. Since the Eldos tail lights do everything- brake, signal and hazard, just tapping a wire would cause the center light to flash with the signals or hazard. GM rectified this by using a different brake switch to prevent backfeeding. See the original gray switch, with an in and out, and the new beige one, with a supply, and two isolated outputs. This puts the 3rd brake light (acronym: CHMSL “Center High Mount Stoplight) on its own branch-but also means that you have to home run a wire all the way to it. The wire chase made quick work of this however. I had a pretty long link of 3rd brake light harness, but not quite enough to make it to the front of the car. I put another PED connector of the same kind that I used on the sail panels to join this blue wire I ran from the switch underneath the drivers side rear seat arm rest, which is accessible by removing the ash tray if need be. The stock package shelf reinforcement actually ended up being drilled for the wiring, so I’m not sure if this was something that was in the works for the Eldo.
The version of the brake switch I used allowed me to keep the cruise control connector, and only change the brake light connector itself (part 12117354). I wanted to keep this as non-invasive as possible as I hate being upside down under the dash (though I see to find myself in that position a lot…) I will search around for the part number for the brake light switch itself.
The last trick I wanted to pull before I put the interior back together was to replace the horrible rearview mirror. I forgot how bad these things were (or more like, no one ever noticed before there were LED headlights on other people’s cars that are tall enough to be flush with your back window) but it seems like the mirror was good for one thing; blindness. They have two settings-blindingly bright where others headlights fry your retinas at night, or completely blind, where you can’t see a thing behind you.
My daily driver has a great auto dimming mirror that still lets you see everything without blinding you, made by Gentex. About the same size as the Eldo rearview. I was casually browsing their offerings to see what kind of money we were talking, when I noticed they offered an upgraded unit as compared to the one installed on my car-one with an LED compass feature that was *drumroll* amber colored! Just like the center stack on the Eldorado! So needless to say, the project was underway quickly.
Wired it in cleanly to an existing ignition power on the fuse box
I had to buy a new button to mount it, stock Eldo one was too small to hold it. Check out the dashboard illustration on the glue I bought to stick it on with!
And here it is mounted up!
I am super happy with the mirror. It works great and is a really close match to the amber on the center stack. They even have the same segment check timing when you turn the ignition on Unfortunately it does not dim with the rest of the dash panel, so that’s a letdown, but if desired you can turn the compass off if you wanted to dim everything all the way as I like to do when I’m out of the city on a dark road.
Now, you may notice that the visors are all kinds of messed up. Progress has a price I guess. My long-fought for 1988 Deville visors are NG with the new headliner board-they’re just too big and interfere with the bump out for the map light. I wish I would have known as I could have easily shrunk this bump out when I was doing surgery on the board but its too late now. I’m at a crossroads of reinstalling my old red Eldo visors with known good arms swapped into them (which are probably super faded next to the new material but are impossible to reupholster right) or finding another late 80s more robust GM visor and reupholstering/swapping them in.
I still have more stuff to add to this which may come tomorrow as my fingers are about to fall off!
Fox 40 fork should do the trick. May have to switch to a stiffer spring because of the expected 100lb weight of the bike.
Oregon Governor Ted Kulongoski and Portland General Electric CEO Peggy Fowler install the first solar panel in Oregon's Solar Highway.
Phrags and Paphs ..this is how it looks before all the soon-to-be-installed moss hides the boxes and pots.
Please feel free to use this photo but be sure to credit ArmchairBuilder.com and provide this link...
armchairbuilder.com/resources/how-to-build-your-own-home
Thanks,
Michael
ArmchairBuilder.com
Contractors install ceiling panels by the new signage for the “Thomas W. Haas We All Fly” gallery on the first floor of the Smithsonian Air and at Space Museum in Washington, DC, March 1, 2022. (Smithsonian photo by Jim Preston) [NASM2022-01533]
This photo is subject to Smithsonian Terms of Use: si.edu/termsofuse.
Gauthier Prontor II Leaf Shutter as used on a Meopta Flexaret II, Czech Medium Format (6x6) TLR. Produced from 1947 till 1948.
After spending hours on all kinds of methods trying to re-install the release lever with its (nasty) spring i finaly managed with this one :
Put a wooden toothpick through the levers hole, tension the spring manually and then apply
a bondage ( ;-) ) to the ensemble with sewing machine yarn.
Next install it on the shutter base and then cut and remove the yarn.
That wooden toothpick is there as an insurance against flying springs (never to be found again).
Of course there is even a better method : Never ever remove the release lever on a Prontor II ;-)
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WARNING :
This image is intended as a guide for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt.
SRF Crymodule Assembly Tech Mike Murphy, left, and Design Engineer Naeem Huque, left, work inside a mobile clean room to install a LCLS-HE power coupler into a cyromodule at the SRF Test Lab at Jefferson Lab on Dec. 7, 2022. (Photo by Aileen Devlin | Jefferson Lab)
Tolleson to honor desegregation history
Elementary district paying tribute to those who fought for equal rights in
schools
View photo by Michael Clawson
PHOENIX CONSTRUCTION WORKER Humberto Valenzuela smooths out fresh cement
March 16 at P.H. Gonzales Elementary School in Tolleson. The school is
installing a tribute to desegregation in front of the school.
Emily McCann
staff writer
Sixty years ago, children in Tolleson were separated at school by the color
of their skin until a group of parents banded together to fight for equal
rights.
The Tolleson Elementary District will pay tribute at 6 p.m. Friday at
Porfirio H. Gonzales Elementary, 9401 W. Garfield St., to the people and
landmark decision that desegregated their schools.
It started in 1949 when a 16-year-old boy, John "Juan" Camacho, challenged
the district's policy to segregate pupils. He went before the school board,
but saw no results.
The next year, parents filed a lawsuit against the district with the help of
three attorneys who donated their services, and Gonzales vs. Sheely was
heard in the U.S. District Court of Arizona.
On March 26, 1951, a judge ruled that segregation of children in separate
buildings because of racial or national origin constitutes a denial of the
equal protection of the laws guaranteed to petitioners as citizens of the
United States.
Goodyear resident Mary Ellen Gannon, 69, was in fourth grade when the
decision was handed down. Her father, Porfirio Gonzales, was the lead
plaintiff in the case.
"My father was a very humble person," she said. "He and this group of people
did what they had to do and never expected recognition. They were very brave
and fought for what was right."
One of the district's elementary schools was named after Gonzales, who died
in 2006 at the age of 90. Now, a tribute panel sits in front of the campus
to honor everyone involved. Part of it reads:
"This memorial is dedicated to all the brave individuals that fought with
great courage and humility to bring an end to the segregation of the
Tolleson Elementary Schools. They believed in the spirit of the United
States Constitution, that all children will be afforded the right to a truly
equal education. Their legacy is a firm reminder that the fight for social
justice continues."
The people who signed the suit were John "Juan" Camacho, Cruz Gonzales de
Contreras, Faustino Curiel, Isauro and Lupe Favela, Angelita Fuentes,
Trinidad Gem Jr., Joe Gonzales, Porfirio Gonzales, Patsy Murrieta, Manuel
Pena Sr. and Manuel "Lito" Pena Jr. The attorneys were Ralph Estrada, Greg
Garcia and A.L. Wirin.
The panel's wording was put together by a committee made up of their
relatives and also community leaders who are well-versed with the history,
including Mayor Adolfo Gamez.
"It's very important that we remember this history in Tolleson and the
people who sacrificed in many ways to make this a reality in terms of
desegregation of the schools," Gamez said.
"Most importantly is to remember that this is something that shouldn't
happen again. That's the message we were trying to send, and make sure kids
understand the history of this community."
Multiple people have been invited to speak at the event, including a pupil
from the district's JAG program and also a member of the Tolleson Teen
Council.
"Our youth speakers are symbolic of the power of the youth voice as agents
of change," P.H. Gonzales Principal Juan Medrano said.
A reception in the school cafeteria will follow the ceremony.
The tribute panel was included with other major renovations made at P.H.
Gonzales Elementary, including a new administration building and additional
science, computer and math classrooms.
The $2.9 million project added 11,800 square feet to the campus, which
accommodates about 930 pupils. The district used bond and adjacent ways
money.
"We've been very active in upgrading technologies by bringing in Smart
Boards and getting our kids better connected with more modern and advanced
technologies, so this building here in terms of its wiring capabilities,
supports that much better than our old building did," Medrano said.
Emily McCann can be reached by e-mail at emccann@westvalleyview.com.
Leonardo A. Gem
Group & Corporate Director
888-533-1813
602-403-2602
*www.AcrossArizonaTours.com*
Finally, I catch up with the Sea Installer in Belfast.
The goal of the trip was to get the Svanen. The Sea Installer was a bonus!
These new turbines from MHI Vestas Offshore Wind are very, very impressive!
Sea Installer's previous work:
Welcome to International Play Company. We design, manufacture and install Indoor Play Equipment, Outdoor Playgrounds and Interactive Play Solutions and ship worldwide.
WE DO IT ALL!
FROM DESIGN TO INSTALLATION.
MAKING INDOOR PLAY EQUIPMENT STRUCTURES SAFE AND FUN FOR THE ENTIRE FAMILY.
This road bike stuff is all foreign to me. Drop bars, positioning the levers in the right spot, fiddly cable runs - give me a mountain-bike any day ;^)
The only easy part was positioning the v-brake pads that the Pauls use. I've never owned a v-brake bike and setting the toe-in was much easier than the Shimano pads on my canti-equiped commuter MTB. When you tighten the bolt up on these nothing moves!