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Pretty damn crude, but at least I know that the servo can lift that motor, I still need to hook it all up so it is under control of one circuitry (right now motor and servo are separate) so I can make it mimic the actions of one of the servos in my software simulation.
I'm still figuring out this whole electricity thing, I gotta make sure my circuit can actually power all the servos and motors at the same time.
There were many of those electronics shops where you would find Playstation and Wii on the first floor and it would get more and more explicit on every floor you're going up, where you would find Hentai DVDs on the 7th floor and normal pornography at the top floor.
A few weeks ago there was a post on the Adafruit blog about such a puke flash light. Today I happened to see this on TV.
The MightyBoard is the brains of the MakerBot Replicator 3D Printer.
The MightyBoard is Open source, and I dervied some of my design from the Arduino Project, and previous MakerBot Boards. The MightyBoard is Arduino-compatible with the Mega-1280, but sports an 8U2 serial interface similar to what you might find on an UNO or a Mega2560.
Composants électroniques (focus stacking).
Image composée de 57 photos prises avec la bonnette Raynox DCR-250 et assemblées avec Zerene Stacker.
The jacks on the CF-17 and CF-M34 are exactly 0.5" deep and 0.55" tall. The ethernet jack is 0.6" wide and the modem jack is 0.52" wide. Leads protrude 0.1" beyond the back of the plastic.
Photos from my rebuild of the Stealth USB Capslocker, using a laser resist etching process. Full writeup available here: macetech.com/blog/node/81
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Cracked and Broken Laptop Screen Replacements
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pulsarprofx toner transfer test. using pulsar's suggested method using a piece of round wood to increase pressure of the iron. sticks like mad, cannot be scratched away but the details are gone. all smudged.
Vacuum tubes, resistors, diodes, a Tube Screamer guitar pedal, transistors, terminal strips and more!
Almost ready to test.
Input is 50V p-p AC from a wall wart. Output is ±1–24VDC (trimmer adjusted) regulated by a standard LM317/LM337 circuit.
Pins underneath meet the pair of rails on a standard breadboard.
Both regulator circuits were tested on the breadboard first, so I'm just looking for soldering and wiring errors. And I need to add the 2 x Cadj capacitors and one diode to feed the negative smoothing capacitor.
The Adafruit protoboard is only just big enough…
Photos from my rebuild of the Stealth USB Capslocker, using a laser resist etching process. Full writeup available here: macetech.com/blog/node/81