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My solder joints are looking a lot better now that I have a good soldering iron (Weller 25W) and smaller solder (0.32mm versus 1mm).
This is being tested using a 1kV anode voltage instead of the 8kV on the datasheet. The filament voltage is regulated at 1V with a 3.3Ω series resistor. Modulation voltage is 12V. Acceleration (55v) and Focus (31-55v) are approximately in proportion with the original ratios.
AMPly PSU + AMPly PA plugged together and working! there's a little bit of start-up sadness (SMPSs! curse you all!) but it pretty quickly begins working very nicely :D <10mA @ 22V for listening volume levels!
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My ninja style prototype circuit
Related blog post: blog.gg8.se/wordpress/2009/11/23/how-to-patch-your-dmg-to...
>>>>>>>>>> click the "ALL SIZES" magnifying glass to see a bigger pic <<<<<<<<<
PARTS
• 2 or 3 12-position rotary switches (or 10-position, whatever you can get)
• 2 pin or banana jacks (to match your test leads)
• resistor assortment from 5 ohms to 1M or greater; gold bands (5% tolerance) are better than silver bands (10% tolerance).
• project box
INSTRUCTIONS
1- Get a box and drill holes for mounting two or three 12-position rotary switches. Drill holes also for the two jacks.
2- Mount the switches and the jacks; label switch positions with corresponding resistor values.
3- Follow this diagram and solder resistors directly to the lugs of the rotary switches.
NOTE: If you solder the resistors so their unsoldered leads extend the opposite direction of the switch's shaft, these leads can be gathered together and soldered at once, connected to the bus wire terminating in point "A".
• The first switch would provide the lowest resistance, the next would provide mid-range resistors, and the final switch would be wired to the resistors with the greatest resistance.
• As seen, the 12th lug of the depicted switch connects to the next switch in the array. Naturally, the final switch in the array would have its 12th lug connected to the final resistor in the matrix.
PANEL
To mark the panel for the resistor values:
1- Turn the mounted switches to position "1" (doesn't matter at all how you orient the switches, just turn them to their lowest resistor settings).
2- Place knobs loosely on shafts and turn their pointers to wherever you want "1" (your lowest resistor value) to be located around the dial (near top or bottom of dial, usually).
3- Once all pointers are angled to this position, tighten their set screws to keep them in place.
4- With your marker, put dots where the pointers point as you click them all around their orbits.
5- Label these dots with the corresponding resistor values. Position "12" can be marked with an arrow pointing to the next switch.
USAGE
1- Set all rotary switches to "12" for starting position. This will provide the greatest resistance available (this is safest on the circuit). Plug your test leads in.
2- Begin turning the LAST dial downward and observe the response of the circuit (LED brightness, audio output, circuit clocking - whatever you're after).
3- When you get to position "1" on this switch, turn the next rotary switch to position "11" to continue the resistance decrease, and so on until you reach the resistance value desired.
4- Observe the resistance the dial is pointing to; grab another resistor of the same value, and your green LED will never again scare you with that ember-like, off-yellow, over-voltage, "Seeya in LED Halvala" glow.
No, this is not the Google Earth view of some city. It is a macro of a silicon wafer containing VLSI circuits. Each of those blocks is about a centimetre on each side and contains numerous transistors.
Thanks a lot to my friend in our university's VLSI lab for allowing me to take this photo.
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A close up of an old motherboard of mine taken with a 50mm prime and a reversing ring to get an extra magnified macro.
Closeup on the plastic guides (white part) that had to be removed. Just unscrew the screw, remove, rescrew the screw :-)
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Product image of components from the Jennic range - www.sequoia.co.uk/components/manufacturer_list.php?m=12&a...
Jennic is a market leader in ZigBee, 6LoWPAN, IEEE802.15.4 wireless microcontrollers, modules and evaluation kits.
This video explains the concept of Subtractor and it’s basic logic circuit from the truth table. Also this video explains how we realise such subtractors through adders only, using 2’s complement addition and save the area of the chip, while designing the arithmetic logic units which use the adder for both addition and subtraction.
Tough only goes so far. Don't drop the machine with a USB cable plugged in! Hint: The jack's not supposed to be lifted off the board like that.
Testing a NaI(Tl) probe I got lying around for some time. Using documentation from the company that build these probes, Scionix, I was able to make a voltage divider and solder it to the tube socket. Later I will put it in a proper housing with BNC sockets and a mu metal shield against the Earths magnetic field, which can influence the performance of the probe by bending electrons in the photomultiplier.
Testing is done with a Cs-137 doped spark gap lying on the workbench.
I use my old Hameg 15 Mhz scope to view the pulses. It is fine for general electronics, but the steep pulses from the PMT are difficult for the scope to display properly. I need to get a better scope or just put a RC filter in line with the probe to lengthen the pulses.
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I digitally sculpted a character based on the idea of a female ninja sniper. The rifle uses a HUGE sniper round much more like a small missile than a bullet. She wears BMX style body armor.
TN9 System
electronics
The design allows to use side glass covering only in the final showcase cabinets: lower price, same safety!
La vetrina Joy consente di non installare i separatori in vetro intermedi, assicurando così praticità e sicurezza
Macro of some 'old school' electronics, meaning pre-surface mounted devices and computer chips. Circuit board from an old battery backup emergency light.