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The assignment was to capture 4 different subjects from 5 different angles, or points of view.
The top left corner is funky due to it being my first time using an enlarger.
Canon 35mm film camera (Rebel EOS 2000), T-Max 400 film (was supposed to be 100, but that's all I had at the time).
Canon EF 28-80mm @f/16 (probably), and likely at the wide end.
Please, please critique!
The eleventh @dailyshoot assignment was about Thanksgiving. We don't celebrate the day in Europe, but we had the yearly company Christmas dinner yesterday evening. I had my camera there with me and planned to take some shots of all the great colleagues that I'm thankful to work with. However, in the end I rather spent the evening chatting and socializing than fiddling with my camera. I still wanted to shoot something that I'm thankful for, and one very important thing for me are all the tools that enable me to stay in contact with my beautiful fiancée and our lovely cats even when we are separated by a thousand miles.
Superior Court Assignment Judge B. Theodore Bozonelis has retired after 21 years as a Superior Court judge for Morris and Sussex counties.
Bozonelis was honored for his years of service by the Morris County Freeholders during their work session May 11. The freeholders praised Bozonelis for maintaining a fair and impartial court. Here, the freeholders prepare to present Bozonelis with a Resolution of Appreciation. Pictured, left to right, are new Assignment Judge Thomas Weisenbeck, Bozonelis’ wife, Helen, freeholders Thomas Mastrangelo, Doug Cabana and John Murphy, Bozonelis, Freeholder Director William Chegwidden, and freeholders Gene Feyl, Margaret Nordstrom and Ann Grossi.
i still hear the comments being made... when you apologize... that means you realized something.
i wish you didn't do that... i really wish you didn't
with that much love and dedication, sometimes you just need to have a little trust & faith
Taken for Active Assignment Weekly: Sept. 5-12 Backlighting
"I thought this week we could try backlighting. Backlighting refers to the process of illuminating the subject from the back. Anything from translucent flowers and foliage, to glowing subjects to silhouettes. It doesn't matter what type lighting (natural or artificial) or what type of subject you use, as long as it is lit from behind."
It's been too long since I had a go at an active assignment! I was determined to make time today, but as were catching the tail end of hurricane Katia over here I decided to stick to an inside shot. I love my little mazeball, so I decided to take a pic of him!The hardest part was turning my back room into a backlit studio, which I managed by partially closing the curtains and placing the ball on a stool, on top of a sheet of white A4 paper. et voila! Basic brightness/contrast adjustments to get the effect I was looking for, as well as some sharpening.
Our assignment was to do a re-creation of one photograph from a famous photographer. In the case of our team, the photographer was Vivian Maier. We shot the photo in Downtown Orlando. The original photo can be found at: www.bronxbanterblog.com/tag/vivian-maier/
Aperture: ƒ/5.0
Focal Length: 28.0 mm
Shutter Speed: 1/25
ISO: 100
Please read “2 of 52 page-1” first
When we look at the Exposure Level Indicator (ELI), what are we seeing? By pressing the shutter button down half way will bring up the exposure level needle. If the needle is pointing at the zero mark, this indicates in most instances the correct level of exposure for a good photo. If the needle points to the left at the -1 or -2, this indicates an underexposure of 1 or 2 full f-stops (or more). If the needle points to the right at the +1 or +2, this indicates an overexposure of 1 or 2 full f-stops (or more). Underexposure means a darker picture and an overexposure means a lighter picture. Finally the small tick marks between the full f-stops represent the 1/3 f-stops.
In order to take a properly exposed photo in manual we want the needle, in most cases, to point at zero. The normal way to adjust the needle is by changing the shutter speed or f-num. Which one you adjust first is usually dependent on if you are taking an action picture (shutter speed) or landscape/portrait (f-num). In this example I will take a portrait of Tigger so I will use my 55mm lens and start by adjusting the f-num.
We will be looking at the frames above from left to right and top to bottom. In the first frame we have just turned on the camera. The main thing to note is that with the current settings we are underexposed (the needle was flashing indicating it was off the scale by an unknown amount). Since this is a portrait, I will lower the f-num from f11 to f5.6 for a narrower depth of field. This will also increase our exposure level 6 clicks or 2 full f-stops (f10, f9, f8, f7.1, f6.3, f5.6). The second frame shows f5.6 but we are still underexposed* so in the third frame I adjusted the shutter speed until the needle moved under the zero. A Rule of Thumb is photos with shutter speeds slower than 1/60 should be taken with a tripod. Since we have a shutter speed of 1/30, if we are using a tripod, we can take the picture (Even if you have a tripod you may want to follow the next step just to avoid movement in the subject).
If we don’t have a tripod, we are going to continue adjusting the settings. Since 1/30 is to slow a shutter speed to take the picture by hand and I can’t lower the f-num any further my only option is to increase the ISO. This is my own Rule of Thumb but unless I’m shooting action pictures I usually try to use the lowest ISO I can get away with. To pick an ISO we could just go to an ISO of 200, readjust the shutter speed and see if we can zero the needle. If it doesn’t, then try 400 and readjust and so on until we get the needle to zero.
That’s kind of hit or miss and not very Ansel Adams like. Another way is to use what we learned from the first page. In frame 4 you can see I adjusted the shutter speed to 1/60 (the slowest speed we want for hand held photography) and counted how many Main Dial clicks it took to get there. From 1/30 we have 3 clicks (1/40, 1/50, 1/60) or 1 full f-stop of underexposure as can be seen on the ELI. We also know that increasing the ISO one position from 100 to 200 will increase the exposure level 1 full f-stop, which should then move the needle back to zero which can be seen in frame five. We are now ready to take a hand held picture.
Let’s say you’ve had too much Red Bull and are feeling a little shaky so you don’t want to take a hand held picture right at the edge at 1/60. You could increase the ISO once more to 400, which will overexpose the picture by 1 full f-stop as seen in frame six. Then from 1/60 increase the shutter speed 3 clicks or 1 full f-stop (1/80, 1/100, 1/125) as seen in frame seven**. Now you have plenty of margin on the shutter speed and the needle is back to zero.
Note 1: again as we discussed on page 1, to have the relationships between the ISO, shutter speed and f-num work this precise, you have to maintain a constant aim point. Small variations in the aim point could cause variations in the light meters exposure level readings which will be seen in the needle. And again tripods can help eliminate any inconsistencies.
*Note 2: In frame 2, we are underexposed by 2 1/3 full f-stops (1 click off scale left) because from shutter speed 1/160 to 1/30 is 7 clicks (1/125, 1/100, 1/80, 1/60, 1/50, 1/40, 1/30) and to get from zero to -2 on the ELI is 6 clicks (count them).
**Note 3: In frame 6, instead of increasing shutter speed, we could have increased the f-num or a combination of the two to move the needle to zero. It depends on the look you’re trying to achieve.
I hope this helps you to use the Exposure Level Indicator. Now on to the assignment.
Assignment 52: Rainbow's End, in tribute to Frederick Rohde VI, brother of Mama Rhodes
Gold-leaf bowl by Cheryl Williams, my mother's turquoise necklace & small memento mori from my parents' house
A different take on the pot of gold, representing memories of far flung family & friends, & those departed, with this quote from "Housekeeping" by M. Robinson, one of the books I turn to often: " ... in the hope that memory will fulfill itself & become flesh, & that the wanderers will find a way home, & the perished, whose lack we always feel, will step through the door finally and stroke our hair with dreaming, habitual fondness, not having meant to keep us waiting long."
The Assignment: Minimal natural color: Color is beautiful, but photos with a minimum of color can be fascinating as well. The assignment this week is to take a photograph with minimal color; to let the composition control the scene– the votes will be the judge on how well you did.
Restriction: No desaturation in post-processing. You must find the minimal color in the subject.
Dare: Don’t rely on concrete to be the majority of the photograph.
WIT: Hand-held shot of duct work found in the house. F/2.8, 1/60 sec, ISO 1000. Needed the flash (on camera) to keep the metal grain in focus(-2 EV with a piece of paper held against it). CS4 rotated, cropped, curves for contrast, sharpened, resize.
Taken for the Assignment 52 group- week 32: Sun burst (sorry- had this mis-labeled)
I always thought this was done with a certain filter. I didn't realize that an aperture priority setting and F-16 setting would accomplish this! Really happy with how this came out!
Active Assignment Weekly : Junk.
There is this great shop that sells all sorts of....well, junk, among other things. This was outside, on top of a large cabinet. Unfortunately my time of day wasn't great, so it was really bright. Boosted saturations and tried to correct levels in PS.
aa junk car cr DSC08264
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Assignment this week was monochrome in anything but black and white. Since I don't have color lens filters, I improvised using transparent gift wrap over my lens.
RISD Sophomore Drawing, Illustration Department, "Fly On The Wall" Assignment, open media, 24" xSpace as Self Portrait36", 2015
Hey everyone,
I feel relatively comfortable with photo editing. I would say I am at an intermediate level. For this image, I used photoshop. I first imported both images into photoshop and had each image on a different layer. I put the images on top of each other than lowered the opacity of the background image. I then used the eraser tool to clean up the image and to blend the model and the background. Considering I did a little more than just increase saturation, hue, exposure, etc., it added a new element to the original image. Before there was a big empty space, which didn't look bad, but adding the buildings and to the background added a new element to the image. It almost totally makes it into a new image
-Anthony