View allAll Photos Tagged Halogen
Thank you, George Gershwin! :-)
All Tungsten Halogen lamps in standard theatre lanterns.
4 x 1.25 kW floods above lighting cyclorama, Lee 195 (Zenith Blue). [er, or it could have been 097 (Just Blue) - it's so long ago I don't remember...]
1 x 1kW fresnel lighting the clarinettist from above, camera-left, Open White.
1 x 1kW zoom profile with 'notes' gobo on floor camera-left lighting cyclorama, Open White.
1 x 0.5kW flood on floor camera-right lighting clarinettist, Lee 180 (Congo Blue).
All channels set to 100% so yes, that's 7.5kW just for this one little photo. :-)
Halogen Teal faux crocodile patent skirt, from Nordstrom. They had it paired with a orange blouse on the website so they closest thing I had was this mustard yellow knit top, and yellow patent heels. I then went to black with a T-Neck and CK tall smooth black boots. I like both looks but the black pops the teal and I think this might be a better look for a dinner with freinds. Done without make up so Faceap was used for my makeup and hair
Taken on set for George's youtube channel.
Using a budget lighting rig (a 1200w halogen heater).
Video to be released shortly on youtube; www.youtube.com/channel/UCt9gyfsi_YKrul1uDg0xRGQ
Please click on my Instagram Page to look at more of my work.
Eddie Bauer white straight jeans, ANA forest green lace up top, Halogen long black cardi Steve Madden black wedgie sandals.
Me jumping on the over-exposed bandwagon! I love this series, I just started experimenting with interesting studio lighting and I'm so happy with the results!
IN ENGLISH BELOW THE LINE
Com a part pel meu intent per a poder projectar pel·licules de 8mm (no super-8, que és un tipus posterior), així com revelar-les en positiu directament jo mateix, vaig buscar un projector adequat. Del meu pare he trobat un projector de Super-8, que a sobre no va bé. Per tant, vaig buscar per internet.
Finalment em vaig decidir pels projectors Eumig P8, que semblen molt barats i facils de trobar. El model basic es fabricà entre 1954 i 1963. Però em vaig trobar amb que no sembla funcionar el conctacte electric amb la làmpada, que a més només pot ser d'un model especific descatalogat i molt car i dificil de trobar. Però vaig descobrir que Eumig posteriorment va modernitzar el P8 al model P8 Automatic Novo (1964) amb diverses millores, sobretot canviant les làmpades a les encara actuals halogenes.
Vaig anar al Penedès a buscar aquest projector, però em vaig trobar que només funcionava el motor/ventilador; ni es movien els engranatges de projecció ni funcionava la làmpada. Amb tot, el vaig portar a casa. Vaig poder identificar els problemes principals: la làmpada estava trencada i la corretja de transmissió completament desintegrada (és de goma). Per sort la làmpada és halogena i en vaig comprar una el mateix dia per pocs euros. La corretja per sort encara es troba online i la vaig comprar a la web holandesa especialitzada Van Eck. Ara el projector ja es movia i feia llum. Però en carregar pel·licula, aquesta refusava anar endavant o fins i tot, tirava enrera.
Hi havia algun problema amb la "urpa" que fa avançar fotograma a fotograma la pel·licula, pel que va ser necessari desmontar el mecanisme... sense manual d'instruccions ni tansols algú que ho expliqués online. Per sort no hi havia peces extremadament petites a perdre, o parts trencades. Com em pensava, tot el mecanisme estava ple de lubricant transformat en una barreja de porqueria i goma, embussant-ho tot. Un cop net amb kleenex, palets i alcohol isopropilic, el sistema funciona de maravella.
collection.sciencemuseumgroup.org.uk/objects/co8206877/eu...
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As part of my attempt to be able to project 8mm films (not super-8, which is a later type), as well as develop them to positive directly myself, I searched for a suitable projector. I found a Super-8 projector from my father, and not in working condition. So, I searched the internet.
I finally settled on the Eumig P8 projectors, which seem very cheap and easy to find. The basic model was manufactured between 1954 and 1963. But I found that the electrical contact with the lamp does not seem to work, which can also only be from a specific discontinued model that is very expensive and difficult to find. But I discovered that Eumig later modernized the P8 into the P8 Automatic Novo (1964) model, with several improvements, notably changing the lamps to the still currently sold halogen type.
I went to visit the seller, to look for this projector, but I found that only the electric motor/fan worked; neither the projection gears moved nor the lamp worked. Still, I took it home. I was able to identify the main problems: the lamp was broken and the drive belt completely disintegrated (it's rubber). Luckily the lamp is halogen and I bought one the same day for a few euros. The belt is luckily still found online and I bought it from the Dutch specialist website VanEck.
Now the projector was already moving and projecting light. But when loading film, it refused to go forward or even pulled back.
There was some problem with the claw that advances the film frame by frame, so it was necessary to disassemble the mechanism... without an instruction manual or even someone to explain it online. Luckily there were no extremely small pieces to lose, or broken parts. As I thought, the whole mechanism was full of lube turned into a mixture of filth and goo, clogging everything up. Once cleaned with kleenex and isopropyl alcohol, the system works wonderfully.
collection.sciencemuseumgroup.org.uk/objects/co8206877/eu...
No AI Training: Without in any way limiting the artist’s exclusive rights under copyright, any use of this photograph to “train” generative artificial intelligence (AI) technologies to produce images is expressly prohibited.
This Lighthouse was opened by Mr G O H Giles MP, Member for Wakefield on behalf of the Minister for Transport the Hon R J D Hunt MP, 29 September 1980. It has been an active unmanned light since that day.
The area is known for the treacherous Troubridge Shoal and nearby Marion Reef which by 1911 had claimed nineteen ships and a great loss of life.
It was built after a decision to downgrade the lighthouse on Troubridge Island to a low-powered automatic operation. The Troubridge Island light is now decommissioned.
Special wedge shaped clay bricks were custom made to build this unusual and unique conical lighthouse with balcony and lantern, it has never been rendered or painted. It is a distinct land mark on the peninsula.
It is designed to be resistant to high winds and earthquakes: in the twentieth century the area experienced numerous earthquakes.
Measuring 32 metres high, Troubridge Hill Lighthouse has a light range of 22 nautical miles and operates off mains electricity with a backup diesel alternator.
The brickwork construction system was innovative and earned an award from the South Australian Brick Association for an outstanding application of clay brickwork.
As it was intended for automatic operation the tower has no windows: it opened 1980 with the following technical details : -
Light source: Tungsten Halogen lamp arrays on revolving pedestal [due to high maintenance cost, these have been replaced with a more traditional rotating lens and electric lantern].
Power source: Mains supply with standby of diesel alternator and batteries
Character: 2 flashes every 15 seconds
Intensity: 257,000 candela
Range: 22 nautical miles
Tower height: 32 metres
Elevation: 62 metres above sea level.
* Current Optic: Vega VRB25.
This Milkyway Galaxy picture was shot when the halogen lights were turned on and there was some fog in the air. This created a beautiful lens flare and the light painting of the halogen bulb made the place colorful. I should say it's a painting done by the nature her self.
Happy Macro Monday!! For the challenge ENERGY (July 28th 2014)
it was too hot to use my makeshift kitchen studio this week - a heatwave took us to 106F in the sunshine at its height! So I had to find another way to approach the challenge!
These small halogen light bulbs measure about 3cm across. I use them in my bedside reading lamps. I shot this in complete dark, with just one tiny blue LED (5mm) as the battery-powered light source. ;o)
Shot with the Sony NEX-6 using the E30mm F3.5 macro lens.
My 2014 Macro Mondays set: 2014 Macro Mondays
Ventrally on the chelicerae are the fangs, these hollow hypodermic needle-like structures are what delivers the venom into prey or attackers. Shown here is the tip of a tarantula fang, including the single opening of the venom canal on the dorsal side around 700µm from the tip away. You can see the full chelicerae @2,9x here: flic.kr/p/T3Fyaf, or on the anatomy poster linked below. As with hypodermic needles, scorpions and venomous snakes the venom canal never ends at the tip itself, but shortly before it. This prevents the venom canal from getting clogged and is mechanically more stable.
Those multi-use injection needles must be sufficiently tough to withstand the initial impact of a rapid attack, while at the same time they need to be hard and stiff to be able to break the prey’s protective cuticle. Shortly after the molt, they are white and vulnerable, tarantulas can’t use them to eat or perform other tasks, it takes a couple days to harden the fangs. A juvenile Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens (Strand, 1907) after the molt: flic.kr/p/D5CEXT
So what makes them strong enough to brake insect cuticle, which is essentially the same material? The spider takes advantage of a wide range of the available chemical and structural modifications in its cheliceral fangs. One of the secrets are the metals. The tarsal claws, chelicerae, stings and other tools of arthropods contain extraordinary amounts of heavy metals (e.g., zinc, manganese, copper) and halogens like bromine and chlorine. Those Metal–halogen biomaterials are widely distributed, especially among arthropods. The functions of the enriched structures suggest that metal–halogen biomaterials enhance mechanical properties. It is likely that they affect the behavior and ecology of the large fraction of arthropods in which they are found (Schofield, 2005). For example, leaf cutter ants may delay leaf cutting until zinc has hardened their mandibles (Schofield et al. 2002). The same effect may apply to tarantula fangs, as shown above. Other secrets of the strength are the chitin and its structure, the proteins and the water content (Politi et. al. 2012).
Technical info: 0.1 Acanthoscurria geniculata fang (chelicerae) - Sony Alpha 7RII + Cognisys StackShot + Nikon 10x MRL00102 @ ~10x Stacked from 156 images (8 µm steps), Helicon A + B. Ikea Jansjö, foam cup DIY diffuser + reflector, 9500px*5300.
50 Megapixel. Anatomy Poster: flic.kr/p/MBZTqH
Robert M. S. Schofield; Metal–Halogen Biomaterials. Am Entomol 2005; 51 (1): 45-47. doi: 10.1093/ae/51.1.45
Schofield, R. M. S., M. H. Nesson, and K. A.Richardson. 2002. Tooth hardness increases with zinc-content in mandibles of young adult leaf-cutter ants. Naturwissenschaften 89: 579–583.
Politi, Yael, et al. "A spider's fang: How to design an injection needle using chitin‐based composite material." Advanced Functional Materials 22.12 (2012): 2519-2528.
Halogen soil brown faux patent alligator slong sleeve top, Hanes hose, Steve Madden alhift dress, Cream mond knee high block heel boots
One of the exhibits currently at the San Luis Obispo Museum of Art is Liminal Space by Anila Quayyum Agha. As you can see, this work throws shadows in all directions and one walks within the work. The artist’s status as a woman in Pakistan kept her secluded from certain places, and then as an immigrant in the U.S., she was sometimes made to feel like an outsider. These occurrences prompted her to create sculptures that are intended to be spaces where all feel welcome and invited into.
“That’s where this idea of ‘All the Flowers’ came from,” she says. “It’s the continuation of me exploring this concept of creating spiritual, yet safe spaces that do not say ‘no’ to anybody.”
Anila Quayyum Agha (°1965), Shimmering Mirage (2019), laser-cut lacquered steel and halogen bulb
19cm x 28cm / 7 1/2" x 11" / watercolor on paper / 2009
*sold*
July 10th - July 29th
"The Good"
Group Show @ Halogen Gallery, Seattle, WA
... still working on the botanical renderings thing. I came inside for this one... using the halogen spots that illuminate my fireplace mantel and a 24" gold reflector as a back drop. Used a 50mm 1.4 prime... bare instead of using a diopter lens attached to a 18-200mm lens as with the previous images in my series.
"LIFE IN ART...ART IN LIFE" ~ Scott
Looks best on a dark background (hit L)
I've still not got the X100 nailed yet, and as such haven't had many good photos.
This isn't perfect, but it's close enough for me to like it. I'm shooting in B&W a lot lately, but it's useful when there's never any daylight!
Tell me what you think.
Flickr Explore - 29th December 2012 Thank you to everyone who has viewed, commented, shared and favourite this photo, it really means a lot!
Lighting info:
Canon 430EX II behind through vellum sheet
100-watt halogen clamp lamp on axis
White cards left and right 45°
Base is clear glass on white paper
About the only contribution of the halogen lamp was to give definition to the black caps.
Winter has arrived, and people are talking about how extremely cold it is, especially in the morning when they are all dressed in their extra clothing. A lovely scenario shows a train approaching a gang member as he reveals his identity to the locopilots, who then record his number and the milestone that is closest to him. The train headed for Bengaluru revs up speed with halogen-lit classic old-school engines that create a delightful aura. Please let me know which of these two photographs you found interesting.
🌴⛰️
Something about me: I'm a devoted railroad photographer who is really enthusiastic about photographing trains in various locations across the nation from numerous perspectives. Every trip to me is an opportunity to learn, and I always enjoy integrating the landscape with the train to provide a rewarding experience. Professionally, I work as an engineer and enjoy exploring new things.
'64 Mercedes SL 230 I spotted in the parking garage a few weeks back.
Explored #40 on April 17, 2011.
Seven dimmed halogen vanity bulbs lit the shot @ ~F4. Zeiss 50mm. ISO 250 for exposure.
I really enjoy how dimmed halogen light feels on daylight film; I think it's a little more rich and golden.
A failed Halogen Bulb from an overhead light fitting. The failure of the element is easily visible.
This type of bulb is being phased out beig replaced by more economical and longer lasting LED Lamps.
The glass envelope is approx 20 mm long
(1) Light, two Halogen spots
(2) Diffusor, pieces of milky foil from www.modulor.de
(3) Magic Arm von Manfrotto
(4) iPhone 4s, with 645 App, fixated via: amzn.to/109fCFF
(5) Earphones as remote trigger (using the "+"button)
RESULT
www.flickr.com/photos/galllo/15483651138
--
Tilo ~gallo~ Gockel
Home Made Fluorescent Light "No Ballast", the wiring mains in black wire to Tesco 220-240v 42watt halogen BC bulb to F14 T5 GE fluorescent tube to neutral return. Other wire both ends of 1 fluorescent tube to a starter FS-U 4-65w single 220-240v.
Repeat for 2nd lamp. 3 amp fuse fitted.
There is no ballast, both halogen bulbs stop the fluorescent tubes from overloading. This Lamp is For Demonstration Only.
YouTube Video www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZvM15EwWac
If you're not confident working with electricity then please STOP here.
You take full responsibility for your own actions if you follow any of these steps and are fully aware of the risks.
What you'll need:
1. 45/ 50W 5400k CFL bulbs, ideally with a CRI > 90 (954).
2. ES (E27) lampholder
3. A few tools: drill with HSS bit, hacksaw blade and file, screwdriver, electrical cable, heat shrink, scissors.
The steps:
1. The halogen site light, lampholder and CFL bulb are shown in photo ONE.
2. Undo the external retaining screw, remove the glass from the door, the inner relfective shield and the halogen lampholder, as shown in photo TWO.
3. Flip the light over, undo the screws in the electrical box, loosen the screws and remove the cables to the halogen bulb lampholder, as shown in photo THREE.
4. If you're lucky your site light will be long enough to fit a CFL bulb and E27 lampholder inside the body of the light. Unfortunately mine was too small so I've had to resort to mounting the E27 lampholder externally.
Mark the position of the new lampholder on the side of the light (it makes the wiring easier if you do this on the same end of the lamp where the cables were removed from the junction box).
Be careful to not cut the hole to high as the slope of the side will mean the bulb will hit the glass in the door (if you keep the glass), as shown in photo FIVE (oops, that should have been labelled FOUR).
5. Now either drill lots of holes and use a hacksaw blade to cut out the hole, or use a jigsaw with an HSS blade. File the sides smooth with a metal file, as shown in photo FOUR.
6. Cut a length of electrical cable long enough to reach from the electrical junction box to the end of the new lampholder. Wire it into the electrical junction box into the connectors you removed the halogen lampholder cables from, and the other end to the E27 lampholder. Photo SIX.
7. Screw in a bulb and test it all works OK. Make sure the wiring is connected correctly and safely. Once you're happy it works undo the lampholder screws and put sufficient heatshrink on the cable to cover the lampholder and the cables that go into it (I used a combination of 50mm, 25mm and 10mm heatshrink). Reconnect the cable to the lampholder, position the heatshrink and shrink to fit with a heat gun.
Photo SEVEN.
8. Now cut a larger hole in the bulb end of the reflector and fit it into the light (I added some aluminium foil behind it as there are a few extra holes in it.
For safety I recommend using a rubber grommet on the new hole to prevent the metal thread on the bulb touching the body of the light. Depending on the E27 lampholder and the thickness of the grommet it is possible that the bulb may not screw fully into the lampholder and therefore not work. You'll have to judge this depending on the components that you have.
I didn't a grommet so used some electrical insulating tape on the edges of the new hole and also at the top of the thread on the CFL bulb.
Carefully screw the CFL bulb into the E27 lampholder until it is secure- mine is a pinch fit (you can see the black heatshrink on the lampholder). If it doesn't work when you test it tighten it up a bit more but be careful not to break the bulb. Photo EIGHT. There's no need to put the grille back on although I have in my photo.
A few comments:
Although the photo shows the two lights mounted horizontally I plan to mount them vertically - two high and two low. 50W CFL is about 250W in old money so this should give me up to 1000W per side (probably less as I'm not sure how true the equivalent wattage is).
Depending on how they work I'll also be adding some barndoors to them. Hopefully this will follow in part 2. I also need to sort out the seal between the door and the body as I have a bit of gap as the lampholder is a bit high so the top edge of the end of the bulb is close to the glass in the door. If the worst comes to the worst I'll put gaffer tape over the gap. Remember that the light won't be weather-proof any more unless you're careful to seal all the gaps, especially around the lampholder.
I'll be adding this to my blog with individal photos but for the present the write-up will be the same as this one.
Comments and suggestions welcome.
Remember: safefty first. If you're not confident DON'T do it.
p.s. My variable power Vivitar flash mod is here
p.p.s. and now as seen on www.diyphotography.net/cold-halogen-lights :) (16.03.09)
UPDATE: 10th October 2010
I'm working on a much easier twin bulb version. I'll post photos soon.
Update 06/08/07 - Added Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM
Update 11/02/08 - Added Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM
Taken with SE K800i + 2x 500w Halogens
dear friends!! tonight, let us meet on the path that leads to the teahouse. the memory of flowing water will call to us from beneath the thin ice, and the voices of absent friends will sing to us as we make our way to the sanctuary. inside, the kettle will be singing over the fire, and the scent of apples will delight us.
may all travelers find joy!!
jeanne
(altered digital photo, which was taken of a digital print on vellum, which partially rested on a small square panel painted with gold ink. the print and panel were illuminated by a halogen lamp. the original photo was taken while walking near a beloved stream one day last year. happiness)